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About ethanknott

  • Birthday 10/06/1988

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  • Location
    Pensacola Fl
  • Interests
    good movies, good books, smithing, leatherworking, woodworking, guitar

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  1. Got me some chunks of cable, generously slathered with grease. Whats the best way to get the crap out of all the crevices? Friend said soak it in kerosene, that a good idea, or is there a faster/more reliable way?
  2. Even taper as best i could manage. Itll lose a fair bit of weight when i put in the bevel, which I'll forge to get the curve and angles, then grind the rest. Also the handle is thicker as a bit of a counter weight. It'll still be fairly heavy but it's not particularly designed for like dexterous fighting, more choppin stuff in the back yard for funsies.
  3. Yeah its a practice piece, working on my distal tapering, beveling, fittings, balance, etc. I'm not good enough yet to get a sword as thin as it realistically should be, so I figured katana-ish would give me enough thickness to work with so I don't screw up too much. As the math goes right now, its a 28" blade, about 1/4" at the hilt, and just a bit over 1/8" at the tip, 6.5" handle for hand and a half grip (since its still pretty heavy) and 1.25" from spine to blade. Its a chunky bastard but if all goes well, I think itll look pretty cool
  4. Thats where I'm finding the difficulty. Doing a scimitar, but with katana-ish geometry, so kinda playing around with some things. That post is super helpful, thanks guys
  5. Working on a sword, and can't find any like general rules for dimensions/geometry for the blade. I.e. I remember somewhere reading that the geometry for a katana is something like distal taper = tip is 70% of the base thickness. So are there general rules for the thicknesses and such, or do I just kinda wing it and make it look right to the eye?
  6. Might I suggest a pair of fireplace tongs, or some bbq tongs? Sounds like you just need something to get the piece far enough away from the fire to comfortably grab it. I keep a chunk of cinderblock about a foot in front of my forge so i can grab a piece and pop it out of the forge real qyick before my hand melts, set it on the cinder block and situate my gril at my leisure. Also, coming in from the side of the fire instead of reaching straight in helps.
  7. Started the profile forging. This is gonna take a lot longer than I thoughy it would. Gonna look great tho. I'll post pics n such once it's ready. Thanks Alan, you're a hero
  8. So basically if I quench in oil I want to forge in a bit of extra curve? Also, how much movement should I expect? I was thinking something about 30" overall, with a fair bit of distance between blade and spine (leaning towards scimitar shape at the moment). So over 30", would the tip shift by like 1/4" off center, or more like a couple inches? Also also, how dangerous is the water quench? Is it worth risking water for the positive curve, or should I stick with oil and try to balance out the loss of curve? This is my first attempt at a (short) sword, so any and all info would b
  9. I used scissors... Seemed to work just fine, just poked them thru and snipped till i had a relatively round hole.
  10. Thinkin about going for a sword with a hamon, made from w2. Was wondering how much blade shape change I could expect? I know katanas get their curve from the differential heat treat, but tamahagane isn't w2, so I don't know the difference in behaviors. Let me know if I'm a crazy person or not
  11. Looks like maple or something similar, maybe white oak, but I'm no expert. Who cares what it is, as long as it's purdy
  12. Whats the ambient temperature where you are? If it's really cold, your tank might be freezing up
  13. No idea if it would work, never tried it myself, and no clue about the properties of antler, but could it be possible to steam/boil the antler to make it pliable? I.e. the same general concept as a horn bow? Or would it not work? (Not sure if it only works with chitinous horn, such as ram/gazelle type stuff) As for elk antler, yeah they're much meatier. I have one chunk I've been saving for a big machete or some such, perfect size for something big and angry.
  14. To minimize losing material from grinding all those little spots out, before you finish your billet, hold it at a dull red temp and give it a whole bunch of smacks with a light hammer. Helps even things out, and scale doesn't form nearly as bad at the lower temps. Also, soak that thing in vinegar for a couple hours, wire brushing the mess out of it every 30 mins or so, it'll eat the scale right off. Also gives you a peek at the pattern, and any hard to see inclusions/delaminations/etc. I have a tank of vinegar always ready to go to facilitate my laziness
  15. Eyyyyy thats me up there! I just got my gflex, havent used it yet tho so no verdict from me there. As for files, if you get nicholson, MAKE SURE you get the made in USA ones... The mexican and brazilian ones are crap, as in they dull before youre done filing blade #1. So don't waste money on inferior tools, spend the big bucks on the good files, they'll definitely be worth it. Also remember to get all the scale/crap off the blade first, only file clean steel. Scale will dull a file faster than hardened steel
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