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About ethanknott

  • Birthday 10/06/1988

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Pensacola Fl
  • Interests
    good movies, good books, smithing, leatherworking, woodworking, guitar

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  1. ethanknott

    blade curve on w2 with hamon?

    Started the profile forging. This is gonna take a lot longer than I thoughy it would. Gonna look great tho. I'll post pics n such once it's ready. Thanks Alan, you're a hero
  2. ethanknott

    blade curve on w2 with hamon?

    So basically if I quench in oil I want to forge in a bit of extra curve? Also, how much movement should I expect? I was thinking something about 30" overall, with a fair bit of distance between blade and spine (leaning towards scimitar shape at the moment). So over 30", would the tip shift by like 1/4" off center, or more like a couple inches? Also also, how dangerous is the water quench? Is it worth risking water for the positive curve, or should I stick with oil and try to balance out the loss of curve? This is my first attempt at a (short) sword, so any and all info would be greatly appreciated
  3. ethanknott

    What did you all use to cut uncoated inswool?

    I used scissors... Seemed to work just fine, just poked them thru and snipped till i had a relatively round hole.
  4. ethanknott

    blade curve on w2 with hamon?

    Thinkin about going for a sword with a hamon, made from w2. Was wondering how much blade shape change I could expect? I know katanas get their curve from the differential heat treat, but tamahagane isn't w2, so I don't know the difference in behaviors. Let me know if I'm a crazy person or not
  5. ethanknott

    Help Identifying Stump

    Looks like maple or something similar, maybe white oak, but I'm no expert. Who cares what it is, as long as it's purdy
  6. ethanknott

    HELP!! Somthing is wrong with my forge :(

    Whats the ambient temperature where you are? If it's really cold, your tank might be freezing up
  7. ethanknott

    Antler for handle scales

    No idea if it would work, never tried it myself, and no clue about the properties of antler, but could it be possible to steam/boil the antler to make it pliable? I.e. the same general concept as a horn bow? Or would it not work? (Not sure if it only works with chitinous horn, such as ram/gazelle type stuff) As for elk antler, yeah they're much meatier. I have one chunk I've been saving for a big machete or some such, perfect size for something big and angry.
  8. ethanknott


    To minimize losing material from grinding all those little spots out, before you finish your billet, hold it at a dull red temp and give it a whole bunch of smacks with a light hammer. Helps even things out, and scale doesn't form nearly as bad at the lower temps. Also, soak that thing in vinegar for a couple hours, wire brushing the mess out of it every 30 mins or so, it'll eat the scale right off. Also gives you a peek at the pattern, and any hard to see inclusions/delaminations/etc. I have a tank of vinegar always ready to go to facilitate my laziness
  9. ethanknott

    Couple of questions on files..And epoxy

    Eyyyyy thats me up there! I just got my gflex, havent used it yet tho so no verdict from me there. As for files, if you get nicholson, MAKE SURE you get the made in USA ones... The mexican and brazilian ones are crap, as in they dull before youre done filing blade #1. So don't waste money on inferior tools, spend the big bucks on the good files, they'll definitely be worth it. Also remember to get all the scale/crap off the blade first, only file clean steel. Scale will dull a file faster than hardened steel
  10. ethanknott

    Damascus knife making

    I use regular 20 mule team borax, put it in a little bottle with holes punched in the lid as a shaker. With the shaker, I've noticed a huuuuge reduction in the foaming and messiness of the borax. Seems like the mess comes feom clumps of borax melting at different rates, if it's broken up really well, it melts with a quickness. I also seem to waste a lot less. Also, I've had pretty great results using 1084 and 15n20. Good contrast, no weirdness with forging or heat treating. Welds together nicely.
  11. ethanknott

    using an adjustabke torch

    What I meant was, is it relatively efficient on gas? Like can I HT one knife per tank, or 10? And is it worth using the map gas, or is propane fine? I threw together a lil baby forge, flat bottom, half circle top. 1" inswool and some refractory. Like 2" x1" x8"
  12. ethanknott

    using an adjustabke torch

    Bought me a bernzomatic ts8000, for a few diff. things, but I was wondering about its feasibility as a heat treating deal. I have some extra inswool and mizzuo so I could easily make a little heat chamber to insulate the knife. Is this a waste of gas? (Using the map gas the torch came with, but it'll work with propane and I have plenty of that) Forge is out of commission till my new blower comes in next week, so trying to find ways to still get some work done in the meantime.
  13. ethanknott

    HT prob

    San mai blade, 15n20 and 1084, normalized 3x, heated to critical, quenched in 140° oil, barely hardened at all. Repeated whole process, same result. Did everything a third time, but quenched in water. Got a bit harder than the oil quenches, but still noticably soft. Am I going too hot, or not hot enough? I work nights, so I do all my forging by day. Got a thermocouple which I use as best I can, but my setup is pretty ramshackle, so I do most of my temp measuring by eye and experience. Never been able to spot descalescence since my forge is basically in the sun. Going to try to stay awake till sunset and give it another try, see if I can't spot this mythical dancing shadow in the blade. Till then, any suggestions? I feel like I did everything the same way I always do, and I normally get a pretty fair hardness. Just quenched like 7 knives a week ago and they're all good and hardened. Used the same forge, oil, quench tank, everything. I dislike when things don't do exactly as I wish them to >:(
  14. ethanknott

    tendonitis/joint issues exp?

    Nights at a gas station. Left hand might be carpel tunnel, feels much better today. Right hand is definitely tendonitis. The tendon for my middle finger at the first knuckle, right where palm becomes finger, is about 3x the size of yhe one on the left hand. It's getting much better, doesn't hurt as much or for as long, but it's still pretty sketchy. As best I can tell from my reaearch, its pretty much rest and hope, or surgery. Can't afford either lol
  15. ethanknott

    tendonitis/joint issues exp?

    Right hand is hammer hand, left is dumb hand. Best I can tell, the right hand is from gripping too hard, always hurts more after using the bigger hammers/bigger hits. The left seems to be from the hand filing/sanding. Using the thumbs to brace the file, probably forcing my left thumb into crappy positions. My right hand seems to be getting better, only flares up during the hammering, left hand just started.