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Dan Hertzson

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  1. +1 on JJ tongs, I have a set and use them regularly.
  2. Reminds me a little of a slightly wider yatagan. Might be nice to ornament or otherwise emphasize the "ears" on the handle in the way some of those are done to visually balance that large blade. Having struggled with grinding a raised clip on a recent blade I feel your pain in getting them straight and clean. Mine doesn't look as nice as yours, nice job.
  3. Fantastic repro. I'm a big hawk fan and you really have captured the aesthetic.
  4. Thanks for the clarification. Your process appears to match what I envisioned. Now I just need to locate a junked black powder rifle barrel...
  5. Excellent, clean work, particularly the whitework filing and overall hawk proportions. I'm not a huge fan of the piercings, but they are also very well executed and I am sure the client loves them. Could you elaborate on what you meant by "bat-wing style" please? Aren't rifle barrel pipe hawks commonly made by necking down the pipe barrel junction, piercing the rifle barrel for the eye (I've always been curious about how that is accomplished without collapsing the rifle barrel as well, drill and saw?), then forge welding the "business end" of the hawk? It looks like you also forge welded in a HC bit.
  6. Could you use a simple pin vise (without handle or swivel) in the drill press for this? Here are some from MSC that seem affordable.
  7. While I like where you are going (particularly the guard), I really was looking forward to see what you were going to do with the first inlaid coffin handle. Hope you will use it in one of your other excellent period pieces.
  8. I know that Cocobolo will darken as it ages. I believe that the mechanism is oxydation and have heard it suggested to leave it un-sealed in a sunlit spot to accelerate the process (UV and O2 exposure). Also be careful to use a good respirator when sanding and clean up your dust. The oils in the wood can cause a skin reaction which apparently is a cumulative effect and will sensitize you to a wide variety of the oily rosewood family (Dalbergia?).
  9. You are getting more flow than the ribbon burner outlets can tolerate and the velocity is so high at the outlet the air/gas mixture is moving faster than the flame front can burn back to the face of the burner. This liftoff is a common phenomena. You are correct that as the forge interior heats up the flame front will apparently accelerate and move back towards the burner outlets. After the candling is complete, and all water vapor boiled off, I would run it at a low, stable flame until the forge interior heats then turn up the air/gas mixture. As I've previously stated, your PID control only varies the gas, which can be a problem for overall flame control. When I built a similar system I used a zero pressure regulator, which varied the gas in a fixed proportion to the airflow. If you use a temperature controller to modulate the air it automatically modulates the gas as well.
  10. Fantastic video. Thanks for sharing it. Lots of high end fitment tricks shown.
  11. I'm definitely in for a hatchet/hand axe, though not a great fan of integrals. I've never done a double bit one. Might try a small Nessimuk.
  12. Also note that in the sushi knife class I took the instructor "precurved" the concave side of the blade mechanically before grinding. In that case we were using single side laminated steel (HC on the concave cutting side and mild on the beveled side). He did the curving cold, after forging and annealing, using large radius clapper dies and a big, slow power hammer. When I tried to emulate this at home I used a swage block and large radius top fuller to achieve a similar effect. Not sure if this is a good idea for non-laminated steel, and the blanks are certainly prone to warping in final heat treat (and expected to do same apparently - I think Murray Carter discusses addressing this in his book). I think you can make a simple one yourself, that isn't water cooled. I suspect that a mister system would work to keep the belt cool enough, or possibly in combination with a graphite pad behind the belt as well to reduce friction.
  13. I used a 12" wheel, but my blade wasn't nearly that wide. You might want to look at water cooled large radius plattens.
  14. You still planning on casting stainless steel, but want to do it on a budget? I strongly recommend that you get some direct, in person, training with someone who casts steel or cast iron on a regular basis. Barring that I would recommend you start with a much lower temperature casting material like pewter or aluminum before you attempt any steel or bronze. What exactly is it you want to make out of stainless steel? Perhaps there is an easier, or at least safer, method to achieve your goal.
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