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Dan Hertzson

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  1. Grizzly switches are well known for being faulty. Our local school purchased around 8 of them and all the switches needed to be replaced. Don't bother with a replacement from Grizzly, just swap the switch entirely with a motor rated switch for the appropriate size motor. A heavy duty motor rated toggle switch will work, but I would advise an on/off pushbutton switch with two buttons for safety.
  2. And the balancing act changes as the forge interior heats up and starts radiating heat onto your burner block. When your forge heat increases you may need to adjust the air/gas flow to compensate. Personally I am a fan of having a short length of the small tubes for your burner block, but I haven't had a chance to do the experimentation to validate that this optimizes the design. Note that preignition can be even more of a problem for operation where you bring your forge up to a high temperature then try to turn it down...
  3. Well the canonical way I used to use back in the day when I certified Clean Rooms for electronics and pharmaceutical firms is using a particle counter (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Particle_counter ). They used to be very expensive, and I doubt that has changed a whole lot in the last 20 or 30 years. Of course there were less high tech methods that included things like putting out sampling trays that allow material to settle on them and physically counting the number of particles in a fixed area using a microscope, but i have no direct experience with them.
  4. Wow, what a fantastic restoration. She is going to be quite the attention getter in the water. Very impressed with the craftsmanship, time and effort you have put in.
  5. In my limited understanding of flute acoustics the sound is produced and influenced more by the geometry of the tube, cut and height of the embochure chimney than the method of connection of the lip plate (or even the material of construction, by many accounts). I would be more concerned about getting the lip plate connected in the correct orientation and not damaging the embochure cut than anything else. Unfortunately my experience with flute repair is constrained to antique wooden flutes, so I can't really give any direct advice on soldering silver ones. Are you sure this is the right for
  6. Cleanest forging is most likely from an induction forge, but that is quite the investment for just a couple of blades a year. Agree that keeping metal dust down is best done in separate room as Alan advocates.
  7. Alan, Thanks, I should't have too much trouble weighing it and figuring out the density from that (you did mean density and in units of Kg/m^3, right? - specific gravity is dimensionless if I recall correctly). This chunk is almost definitely copper, not brass. It is very distinctly copper colored. In fact I have a non-marring beryllium copper hammer, I'll compare colors, but I believe that you are correct and the hammer is much more "yellow". I appreciate you taking the time to help me with this. I've had enough heavy metal poisoning from my glassblowing days and don't need to
  8. Is there any easy way to test if the copper you have is beryllium copper? I have a pretty large chunk of copper (3" diameter/12" long) that I have been planning on cutting up to use for fittings.
  9. PID controllers must have their loop feedback constants set for the typical system and process they control. There are three constants that are needed to establish a stable feedback loop control system of this type: Proportional, Derivative and Integral. Here is an interesting article on how it all comes together: https://www.controleng.com/articles/understanding-pid-control-and-loop-tuning-fundamentals/
  10. I like it. Looks extremely practical. Did you coat the paracord with anything?
  11. Dan Hertzson


    Brilliant work. Museum quality reproductions. Did you weld in high carbon bits as well?
  12. For motors and VFD selected for grinders you can contact Wayne Coe: http://www.waynecoeartistblacksmith.com/Motors.html Based on his explanation for selling I'm surprised he didn't include the motor and VFD...
  13. Well, I bought a used TW-90 to supplement a "kit" 2 x 72 that I added an e-bay motor and Chinese VFD to (each at around $150), so I didn't take my own advice, but here it is anyway. Remember that a used unit will have no warranty, so you are essentially on your own after purchase. Regardless of what the owner says, it could have been misused (fallen, thrown out of alignment, damaged bearings...). The discount for buying a used unit needs to be worth it to you. All depends on whether you don't mind gambling. You probably won't be able to get a used KBAC 27D VFD, so
  14. Not at all bad for a first pass at tongs. A couple of hints: It is a good idea to do each forging operation on both halves of the tongs at the same time. Helps in keeping things symmetrical. By this I mean you do the first set down on the near side of anvil for both tongs, then go to the second set down for each on the far side... Also will help in speeding up your tong production. Your third set down is on the wrong side. The reins should be in line with the other side of the bolster. Your bolster is a little longer than I usually make, but that isn't a big issue. Just
  15. Glad things are working so well for you. Three suggestions regarding your forge: Your burner flare is too deep inside the forge. At the heat it sees inside there it will scale pretty quickly and you will need to replace it. The flare should be at most around 1/2 way into your insulation layer. Ideally the ID of the top of the hole in the insulation should match the end of the burner flare, and then the hole for the burner should taper a little to enlarge slightly at the inside face of the forge. Doors: If you think things get hot now, wait till you start using doors on your fo
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