Jump to content

Dan Hertzson

Members
  • Content Count

    266
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

54 Excellent

1 Follower

Recent Profile Visitors

1,397 profile views
  1. Still not burning correctly. Should be a steady roar. Very possible that you have too much burner for that size forge, particularly diameter of chamber, but there are a couple of other (less likely) things that might be in play: Did you thoroughly dry your liner? If it is outgassing the flame may be starved. Home made refractories are typically a false economy IMHO. Quality materials like 2600 deg F. blanket and Kastolite 30 will give you a much better and more efficient forge. The burner orifice could be blocked slightly (pipe tape or pipe dope is a typical culprit, but pro
  2. Geoff is correct, you need to induce more air. I would certainly start by opening up the air gate as wide as possible. Air gets induced into the mixing chamber by the high velocity gas exiting the orifice in the center of the gas outlet at the bell opening of the burner. If your gas pressure is low you may not be able to induce enough air. Once your burner is lit I would gradually open up the gas at the regulator. Actually the burner manufacturer should have given you instructions on properly lighting the burner and tuning it. You can also run afoul of the safety stop that is now built i
  3. A salient question. If you are using anthracite coal instead of bituminous it is often a problem to keep the coal lit, particularly with a small hand cranked blower like you have, since that type of coal needs a fairly constant airflow to keep lit.
  4. One good trick is to put a piece of pipe into the coal forge and use the radiant heat from it after it heats up to get a more even heat. A long and relatively deep coal fire is required (bury the pipe and leave the open end for your stock).
  5. Not necessarily a matter of size of stock that you are putting in, more an issue of both having enough diameter to fully develop the flame from your burner and also to avoid having that same flame directly impinge on your stock (both creating hot spots and localized areas of higher decarb/scaling). Frosty Tee burners have a realtively short and bushy flame when correctly tuned, so you may be OK. I've always wondered with those forges with multiple burners and aspirations of shutting one off periodically: How do you avoid having the forge radiant heat travel up into the burner mix
  6. Alan, I just apply it with a, disposable, atomizing spray bottle (like for windex). I find the sprayers aren't good for much else after the water evaporates and leaves behind the silica powder, but I guess I could try to clean them out... Not an issue as I only reline my forge very irregularly.
  7. If you are planning on building Frosty Tee burners for your forge I strongly recommend that you follow the directions for same exactly. Of course you can certainly build your own take on his burner design, but they you may be in for more experimentation with tuning than necessary. https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/43976-t-burner-illustrated-directions/ You will note that the Tee in question should be a reducing one (and not one with a reducing fitting added). Hard to tell from the original photos what you have. I see (3) layers of 1" blanket in your forge. With a nominal 1/2" t
  8. We used oil tempering in a sword class at Peter's Valley. This was just canola oil in an old vertical ammo storage box. With a 1" NA propane burner pointed at it the temperature was adjusted by distance from the outside of the can. Carefully monitored during heat up process to ensure it didn't pass flashpoint and not overfilling, it worked quite well.
  9. Shouldn't be if it is properly stabilized.
  10. Alan, Thanks, I guess I'll just have to warn the owners that they should be prepared for patination. I like it myself, on both coper and steel, and since it is a gift I guess they will have to also...
  11. Well as the title indicates, this was my first try at a wa style handle. Blade was forged from a stick of 1084 and is 9" long and 2.5" wide. Stabilized burl wood, G10 and copper handle feels a little blocky to me, aesthetically, but fits my large hands well enough. Not sure about the finish. Right now the handle is just sanded up to 600 grit then buffed, and that seems pretty good for the stabilized burl. At first I thought I might like to just have the copper patina over time to start to match the green dyed burl, but now I'm not sure. It will be a gift, and I'm kind of liking the brigh
  12. I am curious what kind of pyrometer you are using. In my experience a standard Type K thermocouple is no very accurate above 2,000 deg. F unless you are using a rather thick wire sensor (#8 AWG or greater). You also need to wire it in using the correct thermocouple wire, matched to the type of thermocouple.
  13. Not in the physics texts I remember. F=M x A (mass x acceleration). You may be thinking of Kinetic energy: Ke=1/2 (M x V squared), or momentum(P): where P= M x V. The latter is the equation that is often overlooked and I believe more applicable to the plastic impacts we see in forging of hot steel.
  14. I really was hoping to get to this class, but couldn't get time off from work. Fantastic results. Any chance you would consider teaching it again (possibly in Rochester, NY at Arc and Flame?
  15. Very nice work. I have one question regarding design. It appears that you have both ground in an integral guard and added a SS slip on guard. What was the logic there?
×
×
  • Create New...