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Dan Hertzson

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  1. Any time I've ever cut open drums or tanks I first flushed , then used a jig saw with a metal cutting blade. A slow and loud process, but no real sparks to speak of either.
  2. Thanks for the detailed explanation. I figured it had to be something like that. Like the new design. Peter's guidelines seem to work well for part lengths, but the body of the handle does seem to dominate a little aesthetically. Perhaps you could consider vertical flutes (with crevices lines in twisted silver wire to match your theme) or some faceting?
  3. You are putting in fullers in a hardened blade freehand with a rotary tool?
  4. Promotional photos are sometimes weird. I just saw a smith online promoting his book on forging blades. The cover photo and at least one of the interior "sample pages" show extremely pronounced "fish lips" being forged into the tip of his stock (not a fish mouth join of a pattern welded billet either). Needless to say I didn't feel a I had to jump on that one...
  5. Yes, forgot to mention: reversibility is a very useful feature. Relatively easy to achieve with a 3 phase motor under VFD control. Much harder with single I think.
  6. I have limited experience with disk grinders, but from my research: Smooth, vibration free running is important. If you don't' want to purchase a commercial disk I recommend finding someone with a lathe to help make one. Speed control can be quite helpful, but your proposed belt drive system may add vibration unless very well constructed. Most disk grinders I've seen have the disk mounted directly to the motor and use the motor bearings to keep things running smoothly. 1 HP motor is likely acceptable for a nominal 9" wheel, just be sure it is a sealed motor (TEFC...). Yo
  7. Caveat: Just keep it out of the direct flame from the burner if you want your thermocouple to last
  8. If your forge hasn't cured completely yet, and from your description it most likely hasn't, you will be driving off moisture from the castable for a while yet. The steam created will definitely heat up the forge skin and may even interfere with a stable flame. Unless you want the castable to crack, you need to heat it very gradually. You might even want to drill a small hole in the bottom of the skin as a "weep" for the steam generated. I would switch the locations of the needle valve and ball valve in your gas train assembly. Ball valve is for quick emergency shutoff, needle i
  9. I, and a number of other makers, have been pretty happy with using Matt Parkinson's hardness testing chisel sets. I'm sure they don't give the level of accuracy of a professional machine, but on a budget they are good enough for my purposes and can be used directly on a blade edge (and certainly out perform the off brand hardness files).
  10. Another cheap option, if you don't mind plastic piping, is to use a 3 port 2" swimming pool diverter valve. This will proportion the air between the two paths with operation of only one handle:
  11. Blower specs seem unusual. 85 CFM appears a little light for the size block you have, but 150 mbar equates to 60" WG, which is some serious overkill. It really all depends on the actual shape of the fan curve, which is not predictable from a single point of operation (if the data given is even accurate, you need the airflow at a certain total static pressure). 850W is around 1 HP, which should be plenty, so hopefully the curve matches your installation. Not a huge fan of the blue plastic elbows near a forge, or the gas hose on the ground. I'm sure that will be addressed when y
  12. When I moved my little hammer I rented both a trailer and truck from U-haul. Worked quite well for me.
  13. Well, I don't know about double quenching as a valuable addition to a heat treatment regime if it is defined as simply bringing the steel above the transition temperature then rapidly cooling it and repeating that exact process again. However I have had a teacher I respect greatly advocate a method using two quenches to produce something that could be termed "grain refinement". As I understand it the theory goes something like this: After forging and rough grinding the blade, the grain sizes throughout can be highly irregular. A standard normalizing and stress relief heat treatment
  14. While the guard looks to fit the projected handle size quite well, aesthetically it appears to be a bit large for the size of blade (particularly the top branch). I could see that one trimmed down to fit within the circle you drew on your plan. Did you sketch the guard before forging, or just freestyle it? Nice blade profile, grind and pattern.
  15. Looks like your air inlets are choked way down. These need to be adjusted for a neutral or slightly reducing flame with the burner inside the forge. Question is whether you have hard or soft firebrick for your forge body. Hardbrick forge will bleed heat like crazy and be difficult to get up to temperature. Also may be a problem with the wood 2 x 4 stand. Softbrick will eventually break under thermal cycling. Also may be a problem with the size of chamber vs the burner output. A forge chamber can be too small as well as too large. If too small, complete flame development is not possible
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