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Dan Hertzson

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  1. For motors and VFD selected for grinders you can contact Wayne Coe: http://www.waynecoeartistblacksmith.com/Motors.html Based on his explanation for selling I'm surprised he didn't include the motor and VFD...
  2. Well, I bought a used TW-90 to supplement a "kit" 2 x 72 that I added an e-bay motor and Chinese VFD to (each at around $150), so I didn't take my own advice, but here it is anyway. Remember that a used unit will have no warranty, so you are essentially on your own after purchase. Regardless of what the owner says, it could have been misused (fallen, thrown out of alignment, damaged bearings...). The discount for buying a used unit needs to be worth it to you. All depends on whether you don't mind gambling. You probably won't be able to get a used KBAC 27D VFD, so those will cost you on the order of $350 (and you really want variable speed). I think I saw someone here posting motors for around $150 + shipping. A small wheel attachment is no use without the wheels to go with it, so price those as well. The pyroceram facing is nice, but not everyone finds them to be required. You need to decide if these are the attachments that you would have bought for yourself, and judge their value to you accordingly. I've used machines with gas strut tensioners, spring tensioners and ratchet tensioners. I much prefer the last type, but all will work if correctly designed and installed. The Black Fox looks like a decent machine, but nothing that special. Probably better than the cheap, overseas knock-offs. However, there are a number of newer innovations that are coming out that are pretty attractive that you might want (at bare minimum contact wheels for tracking your flat platten so you can grind on same without damaging the wheel), including things like rotary plattens, quick change flat platten to contact wheel, surface grind attachments, adjustable grinding shelves, etc. Also, you need to know why he is selling it. Good luck in any case.
  3. Not at all bad for a first pass at tongs. A couple of hints: It is a good idea to do each forging operation on both halves of the tongs at the same time. Helps in keeping things symmetrical. By this I mean you do the first set down on the near side of anvil for both tongs, then go to the second set down for each on the far side... Also will help in speeding up your tong production. Your third set down is on the wrong side. The reins should be in line with the other side of the bolster. Your bolster is a little longer than I usually make, but that isn't a big issue. Just be careful not to make the bolster too thin. The bolster area where pierced and the connection to the jaws and/or reins are the three most common failure locations for tongs. Remember that you need to make two identical halves to complete your tongs, not mirror images. Try to finish shaping the bits before you rivet the tongs together (shape to "V" or "U" crossection, put shallow chisel cuts in surface...) You can use a machine screw and nut of the appropriate size to align the tongs in a demountable fashion before you rivet them together if you want. Good luck, you are definitely on the road with these. Much nicer than my first effort (which was my third time forging at the green coal tent at ABANA in 2014).
  4. Glad things are working so well for you. Three suggestions regarding your forge: Your burner flare is too deep inside the forge. At the heat it sees inside there it will scale pretty quickly and you will need to replace it. The flare should be at most around 1/2 way into your insulation layer. Ideally the ID of the top of the hole in the insulation should match the end of the burner flare, and then the hole for the burner should taper a little to enlarge slightly at the inside face of the forge. Doors: If you think things get hot now, wait till you start using doors on your forge. With a Naturally Aspirated burner you shouldn't ever close off the front of your forge all the way, but if you are only working 1/2" stock there is no need to keep the front open that far. Soft brick doors insulate better, but break pretty easily when moved around. A half brick split of hard firebrick makes a pretty good door and is robust, but you need to have a way to move it back and forth (tongs...) Yes a forge can get too hot. If your steel starts burning or melting, or your forge liner melts or erodes, the forge is too hot for that application.
  5. Interesting, I have a PC 4 1/2" grinder that I bought back in the early 80's that is still giving me good service. Of course I don't use it as hard as a fabricating shop would, but I certainly can't complain about the quality of construction.
  6. Thanks all for the help and advice. Really appreciate those who took the time to answer.
  7. Well I cut off the bad section, forged out the rest and no cracks yet. Guess I'll find out when I quench, temper and final grind. The test coupon above was from the worst area that broke under the hammer. I did no further forging and only thermocycled and quenched. I had to cut a groove in it to be able to break it in my vise with a 3# hammer (it was a short and thick piece though.. Right now I'm more worried about surface decarb than cracks, but we shall see as things progress.
  8. Better shot of the normalized grain.
  9. So I finally got to really test the blower upgrade on my forge. Had been getting hot enough for welding HC, but struggling a bit with mild. Now I'm getting enough heat to reach yellow white temperatures and guess I need to watch more carefully. Was on my last pass at forging down a 3" tank turret bearing that I've struggled with in the past and at approaching 1/4" it got hot enough to crumble under the hammer when I got a little distracted. Before it wouldn't have been a problem since the forge never got hot enough to burn steel, but of course this was probably something like 52100 and needed extra care in any case. Oh well, so now I've forged out a 14" dirk instead of an 18" one. Before going through all the grinding and heat treating I thought I'd check a piece of the worst of the crumbled portion to see if thermocycling would save it. Normalized my usual way with 3 decending cycles, heated to critical and quenched in parks 50. Had to grind a groove to break it, but the cleavage shows lovely grain on the same steel that crumbled like cottage cheese earlier. Maybe a bit of surface decarb as well. Hope the photo below of the results shows up.
  10. So I've finally given up on the whole hot stamping thing. Love the idea, but can't get the level of detail consistently with the design I've come up with and the 3/4" diameter Hoenick stamp I purchased. Might work better if I rigged it up in the fly press, but even using the treadle hammer I struggle with getting a deep enough impression. This is what my mark looks like (blue fill is indented, white is proud): So I'm looking at electro-etching. I have an old model railroad transformer that I feel pretty comfortable using for the etch side, but am not sure on two things: Where to get laser cut stencils (I can lose the inner white triangles) Whether you can etch already assembled knives/axes... I'd appreciate any direction. Thanks
  11. Thanks Alan, back to the grinder for me then... Glad I caught it before all the hand sanding was finished.
  12. So if a traditional seax does not have a riccasso, how is the joint between blade and tang setup so you can make a good connection to the handle without showing the gap? The blade will be tapered down to the edge in crossection (say a triangle with a flat spine and full flat grind). If the tang is larger in thickness, for strength, and rectangular in crossection, per usual design, the top of it will show when you look down at the handle. If the tang is smaller in thickness, and rectangular in section, it won't show, but the size change will make the knife weaker at that critical point. If the tang is essentially flush with the blade, and tapered in crossection, you have to deal with broaching and/or filing a trapezoidal hole for it to fit into the handle. Is there a trick here I'm missing?
  13. One of the nice things about 5160 heat treating is that it doesn't need an especially fast oil. Lots of folks, including myself, have had great results with preheated Canola oil. If you learn your forge temperature controls you can certainly heat treat it using a forge as well.
  14. I've only ever seen one photo of something like it here in the States. If I recall correctly it sold for some crazy money at a blacksmith gathering in Ohio.
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