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Dan Hertzson

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Everything posted by Dan Hertzson

  1. I have some silicon bronze that was sourced from discarded survey markers like the one in the photo below. It forged pretty well, hot, though it was important to keep it just barely in the dull red range. I heated to dull red and forged till it stopped moving, then repeated. Picture to the right are items made from one of these markers. Lovely material once you get used to it. All punching was done hot. Brass is completely different, at least the stuff I got. There I did the anneal and quench route. Still has a tendency to work harden and crack if you aren't careful.
  2. A discolored band in locations that may have had previous chipping. Evidence of later brittle breakage, typically at poorly repaired edges, that pull away even more of the parent hard face.
  3. I love my Fisher, and they are certainly fine anvils. However the edge chipping on both of those look like it might be the result of someone attempting to add weld to the edges where they had previously been damaged, and having the area repaired embrittled and prone to further spalling. Since you have been using a similar anvil, you should know if this is the case, for the one on loan at least. If it is, I certainly wouldn't be offering top dollar for the marketplace anvil.
  4. Pretty sure the Keeton DIY press is a hydraulic one, not pneumatic. I'm not familiar with that particular design, but many hydraulic presses work great as clamping devices. It all comes down to controls and hydraulic valve circuiting.
  5. I'd take a hard look at an Anyang forging press. Appears to be built in a more industrial fashion and I've only heard good things. Has good space between dies, passthru, and specs. If money was no object, and I had space, I'd certainly consider one: https://www.anyangusa.net/hydraulic-forging-press.html No affiliation with the sellers or manufacturer.
  6. Can't view videos now, but on quick look it appears that you have your orifice screwed fully in. I would move the orifice outlet back further and see if that increases the induced air. Don't move the air gate, just back the burner tip out of the casting about 1/2 way and adjust the lock nut to suit. To induce more air in a naturally aspirated burner first try adjusting the nozzle outlet further away from the mixing tube, then try increasing the gas pressure, finally try reducing orifice size
  7. Still not burning correctly. Should be a steady roar. Very possible that you have too much burner for that size forge, particularly diameter of chamber, but there are a couple of other (less likely) things that might be in play: Did you thoroughly dry your liner? If it is outgassing the flame may be starved. Home made refractories are typically a false economy IMHO. Quality materials like 2600 deg F. blanket and Kastolite 30 will give you a much better and more efficient forge. The burner orifice could be blocked slightly (pipe tape or pipe dope is a typical culprit, but propane can also contain impurities which can throw things off). Can you get a good stable burn outside the forge? It may work better inside the forge once it gets up to a better heat, but that kind of unstable flame is not normal. Is the air gate fully open? How far down is the regulator cranked in that video? What pressure is the regulator rated at? Also, I can't believe that the manufacturer doesn't stand behind their product enough to assist you in getting it functional. Whose product is it?
  8. Geoff is correct, you need to induce more air. I would certainly start by opening up the air gate as wide as possible. Air gets induced into the mixing chamber by the high velocity gas exiting the orifice in the center of the gas outlet at the bell opening of the burner. If your gas pressure is low you may not be able to induce enough air. Once your burner is lit I would gradually open up the gas at the regulator. Actually the burner manufacturer should have given you instructions on properly lighting the burner and tuning it. You can also run afoul of the safety stop that is now built into new propane tanks (to avoid having them run wild if the main valve is opened without a downstream regulator). Barring direct tuning info from the manufacturer I would follow this procedure (note: this works for me, but proceed at your own risk): Close the main valve on your propane tank and dump any remaining gas in your downstream lines (open needle valve and regulator full - stem full up on needle valve and full down on regulator). Detach the regulator from the tank. Confirm tank still has some propane in it. Reattach regulator to tank (take care not to cross thread the valve and remember the thread is typically "backwards"). Note: these first three steps are to reset the safety, and not necessary for typical startup Close both the regulator and needle valve. Open the main gas valve on the tank full Open the air inlet all the way (integral gate fully opened up to the stop) Put a wad of lit newsprint into your forge Slowly open the regulator about 1/2 way (crank stem down) Slowly open needle valve, the forge should light. Continue to open the needle valve until the flame begins to roar and turn blue. Louder sound usually equates to a stronger flame. Once the flame is stable and blue at the end of the burner inside the forge, wait till the forge warms up to a good orange. You can increase the flame output, first by opening the needle valve full, then by opening the regulator further. If you want to adjust the forge atmosphere to make it more reducing (good to avoid excess oxidation on the steel surface and excessive scale) you can close down the air gate, slowly, until there is about 2-3" of flame starting to lick out of the front door. This will be noticeably different from the slow flame you have now. You will typically need to adjust the atmosphere with this gate slightly at each different regulator setting and/or forge interior temperature. To shut down: close main valve first to let all gas burn out of lines. Then close regulator and needle valve (important to at least close the regulator to avoid having the safety stop engage again). Good luck and be safe.
  9. A salient question. If you are using anthracite coal instead of bituminous it is often a problem to keep the coal lit, particularly with a small hand cranked blower like you have, since that type of coal needs a fairly constant airflow to keep lit.
  10. One good trick is to put a piece of pipe into the coal forge and use the radiant heat from it after it heats up to get a more even heat. A long and relatively deep coal fire is required (bury the pipe and leave the open end for your stock).
  11. Not necessarily a matter of size of stock that you are putting in, more an issue of both having enough diameter to fully develop the flame from your burner and also to avoid having that same flame directly impinge on your stock (both creating hot spots and localized areas of higher decarb/scaling). Frosty Tee burners have a realtively short and bushy flame when correctly tuned, so you may be OK. I've always wondered with those forges with multiple burners and aspirations of shutting one off periodically: How do you avoid having the forge radiant heat travel up into the burner mixing tube? Please just be sure that tube isn't too hot if you decide during forging to turn it on and get "MORE POWER"... Door openings will be critical as you are making a forge with Naturally Aspirating burners.
  12. Alan, I just apply it with a, disposable, atomizing spray bottle (like for windex). I find the sprayers aren't good for much else after the water evaporates and leaves behind the silica powder, but I guess I could try to clean them out... Not an issue as I only reline my forge very irregularly.
  13. If you are planning on building Frosty Tee burners for your forge I strongly recommend that you follow the directions for same exactly. Of course you can certainly build your own take on his burner design, but they you may be in for more experimentation with tuning than necessary. https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/43976-t-burner-illustrated-directions/ You will note that the Tee in question should be a reducing one (and not one with a reducing fitting added). Hard to tell from the original photos what you have. I see (3) layers of 1" blanket in your forge. With a nominal 1/2" to 3/4" thick Kastolite inner liner your forge will become very long and small diameter. Unless you switch to a ribbon burner you may end up having trouble getting an even heat. Kastolite actually makes a better, mildly flux resistant floor than a fire brick (though a fire brick can be removable and replaced). I recommend that you design your doors with different hinging systems (unless those are only end caps and there will be door openings cut in them. As currently setup, when you open the door you will both have to swing it out at least 90 degrees (having a full opening) with the radiant heat from that door going where you don't want it. I'm a fan of pivoting, sliding, or 4-bar linkage door systems where the inner face of the door when open stays in the same plane as when it is closed. This is a good idea at least for the "front" door. I have to respectfully disagree with Alan regarding rigidizer. Properly applied it is just a thin skim coat on the surface of the blanket. Any nominal loss of insulation value from that is easily offset by the gain in insulation value from not having the blanket "matt down" during Kastolite liner application. I mixed my own rigidizer from fumed silica and water (available cheap at fiberglass boat builders supply shops).
  14. We used oil tempering in a sword class at Peter's Valley. This was just canola oil in an old vertical ammo storage box. With a 1" NA propane burner pointed at it the temperature was adjusted by distance from the outside of the can. Carefully monitored during heat up process to ensure it didn't pass flashpoint and not overfilling, it worked quite well.
  15. Shouldn't be if it is properly stabilized.
  16. Alan, Thanks, I guess I'll just have to warn the owners that they should be prepared for patination. I like it myself, on both coper and steel, and since it is a gift I guess they will have to also...
  17. Well as the title indicates, this was my first try at a wa style handle. Blade was forged from a stick of 1084 and is 9" long and 2.5" wide. Stabilized burl wood, G10 and copper handle feels a little blocky to me, aesthetically, but fits my large hands well enough. Not sure about the finish. Right now the handle is just sanded up to 600 grit then buffed, and that seems pretty good for the stabilized burl. At first I thought I might like to just have the copper patina over time to start to match the green dyed burl, but now I'm not sure. It will be a gift, and I'm kind of liking the bright copper. If I want to keep it bright, what finish would you suggest that will be compatible with both the burl and copper?
  18. I am curious what kind of pyrometer you are using. In my experience a standard Type K thermocouple is no very accurate above 2,000 deg. F unless you are using a rather thick wire sensor (#8 AWG or greater). You also need to wire it in using the correct thermocouple wire, matched to the type of thermocouple.
  19. Not in the physics texts I remember. F=M x A (mass x acceleration). You may be thinking of Kinetic energy: Ke=1/2 (M x V squared), or momentum(P): where P= M x V. The latter is the equation that is often overlooked and I believe more applicable to the plastic impacts we see in forging of hot steel.
  20. I really was hoping to get to this class, but couldn't get time off from work. Fantastic results. Any chance you would consider teaching it again (possibly in Rochester, NY at Arc and Flame?
  21. Very nice work. I have one question regarding design. It appears that you have both ground in an integral guard and added a SS slip on guard. What was the logic there?
  22. Don't know about you, but I'm pretty sure that I never gave Amazon my phone number; no reason for them to have it. I'm with Alan on distrust of autopay, online banking... as well. Those calls to authorize payments just get hung up on. Credit card companies get calls back on their central number from the card itself, not ones left in messages. Only hassle there is the inevitable wait times, but at least you know you aren't getting scammed.
  23. Any time I've ever cut open drums or tanks I first flushed , then used a jig saw with a metal cutting blade. A slow and loud process, but no real sparks to speak of either.
  24. Thanks for the detailed explanation. I figured it had to be something like that. Like the new design. Peter's guidelines seem to work well for part lengths, but the body of the handle does seem to dominate a little aesthetically. Perhaps you could consider vertical flutes (with crevices lines in twisted silver wire to match your theme) or some faceting?
  25. You are putting in fullers in a hardened blade freehand with a rotary tool?
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