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kifft

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About kifft

  • Birthday 12/08/1975

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    things that blow up
  1. i would like to start by saying this is my first fully forged blade and would like some advice. i am debating on an oval vs. tear drop shape for the socket (leaning towards tear drop). i have to get a drift, so this is a good time to figure out the shape of the socket. i would also like advice on what size of socket to go with as well as lengh of handle. this head still needs a little refinment, i want to reduce the height of the body, as i think it will give the beard a better line. some of the measurments are: edge to front of socket- 7.25, edge- 3.75, height on front of socket- 1.5, thickn
  2. hey chris, the seller claims it was from a box mill sled runner from the 1800's. send me a massage (i think that is called a pm- i don't do the smart phone thing, so i don't know the terms) as to what you need for a few peices. i just want to try some san mai. thank you gents
  3. are there any other tests i can perform? would etching show the grain?
  4. just got these off feebay and want some input as to wether or not they are real wrought iron. i cut and bent these to check out the grain. the long flat bar did not bend, it just broke so i suspect it is cast iron (grain looks it too). the square and round bars were cut and bent, however i compared these to some mild i have in the shop and they look the same. what do you all think? i think billy just got hosed! depending on the experts opinion i will be more than happy to share the sellers username so no one else has to deal with this, but i want to make sure first.
  5. now its making some sence. i read somewere microfractures can form if worked too cold and that is/was my concern because im guessing at temps.i dont know exactly what i am doing! dont know what to ask or the best way to ask it to get the answers i need, but by god im doing it anyway! so far what i do know has come from forums like this and youtube. so much info to sort through. still tring to wrap my head around austenite,cementite,martensite . im getting there thanks to you guys-hats off
  6. i want to ht it to make sure it was not worked too cold and crack on me. then annel so i can finish...should have said that. my thinking is if it cracks now then at least i have not wasted time finishing a poorly made billet. after ht, if it dulls a center punch then i know there is plenty of carbon in it. doese the oil need to be warm? i am gaging temps by color and i know the color looks different in different light (natural vs attificial, cool vs warm and so on). my light source was maintained through out the forging and if the ht works out then i know i can continue with the color
  7. hello everyone. i am new to this forum and am as green as grass to making damascus. that being said, i have decided to start with 1084/15n20 feather pattern. i know this is quite ambitous, however i already did it. the blank i have ended up with is roughly .25 x 1.5 x 10" and about 380 layer. the best i can tell is all the welds look good, no cracks or inclusions. i have tried several searches on this forum for heat treating this combo, but am not having any success in navigating. as i have only the most basic of tools and knowledge available, i am not sure if the forging was done at the corre
  8. i am going to build a forge/foundry and would like some insight as to insulation. i would like to melt nickel in the foundry set up, which will be vertical, with a 1" forced air propane burner. the forge will be used horizontaly to heat treat and weld and will probably use 2 3/4" burners, again forced air propane. i have not calculated all of the volumes, air pressures, measurments, etc... yet, but will before i start. the basic dimensions are 16" shell 14" long, a 2" layer of ceramic blanket, and a 2" layer of kast-o-lite 30 leaving 8" for the inside diameter. the ends will come from an ai
  9. thank you guys, that is all i wanted to know.
  10. copper and nicklel work hardens too, however i would like to know what happens if cabon is added- will it work to make brass harder?
  11. just wanted to know if it is posible to add carbon (powdered graphite) to brass (or any nonferris metal) in the crucible? will they bond? will the brass be harder? why or why not? thank you for any input.
  12. kifft

    blue duiker

    i am thinking of placing an order and am hoping to get some ones experiance with this company.
  13. kifft

    blue duiker

    i wanted to know if anyone has done buissines with blue duiker (blue duiker.com)? they are out of south africa and carry horns like springbok, blesbok and gemsbok. i ask because there prices are super cheap.
  14. i am not sure how to make a link? i just searched ebay for TTC # 100 quenching oil and it was the first listing.
  15. has anyone heard of TTC 100 or used it? it is sold on ebay, but i can not find any info when i google it. thanks in advance.
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