Eric Morgan

Still gotta work on the tang some more, but here’s an afternoon’s work before it got to be too hot to work any more lol. As in the title, I forged this from a length of 1/4”x2” 80CRV2. I forged a distal taper into the blade, and am excited to get this thing ground and ready for HT. It will be the first knife I’ve ground on my 2x72 grinder, so I’m looking forward to not using a 1x30 for everything. Thanks for looking, and I’ll post updates as I get stuff done *Edited to add* I have done some profile grinding to the spine and edge, but I managed to get the profile pretty close to what I wanted with the hammer

6” blade, right-hand chisel ground blade, textured nickel silver bolster, and a buckeye burl/epoxy handle with black fiber spacer material and a black micarta pin. I also etched a Raven into the blade as a touchmark of sorts, as we met through gaming and my gamer tag has always been some form of ‘Raven’ or other. The spine isn’t fully rounded, but I did break the corners more than what it appears in the pictures

Very nice!

The real question is how many of em fit into large priority boxes

Finally got some time to work on my own stuff, and did some rough grinding on the Damascus blade. Had to do a quick etch to see how she is gonna look... now to clean her up and get ready for the heat treat

1095 chef’s knife I’m working on for a friend.

I’ve loved your work as long as I’ve been aware of it Gary.

Thanks man!

Thanks for the comments everyone. I have the blade forged roughly to shape and about ready to grind. And yes, I’m already studying up on patterns and techniques. My arm and wallet are gonna pay I suppose

I like that!

I started with a billet that was nine layers of 1084 and 15N20. Not a very large billet (1.25”W by 2.5”L by a little over 10 thick), but I figure it’ll be enough for a decent little edc blade. I tried to learn from my mistakes with the first one I attempted and made sure to get a good soak at welding temp and also forged it down at or near welding heat until it was at least 3/8” thick or so. Throughout the drawing out process I watched very closely for indicators of failed welds or delaminations, which I haven’t seen. So hopefully with all the extra time and scrutiny I put into this billet it oughta be just fine. I know this is by no means groundbreaking or even noteworthy to anyone outside myself, but I am proud to have gotten solid welds and been able to get to this point. Now I just gotta figure out what I wanna make out of it

Hey guys, finished up this little hunter/general use knife for a buddy of mine at work. 1084 forged to shape with stainless pins and black walnut scales. Thanks for looking

Incredible work as always Gary

Could well be. This was basically the middle of the billet. I probably didn’t let it heat up enough throughout.

Hey guys, thanks for all the advice in this thread! This site is truly a treasure chest of knowledge and experience. I'm hanging these pieces in my shop on the wall to remind me that failure isn't the end, its just part of the learning and growing process. Can't wait to get back in there and make a successful billet

Grinding lengthwise being better makes sense... I went by color and let it soak for a little bit before I tried to set the weld

I tried my hand at damascus this weekend. 4 layers of 15N20 and 3 of 1084 approximately 1.25” x 3.5”. The 1084 is 3/32” thickness, the 15N20 is ~.080”. I did my surface prep with a 40-grit ceramic belt and tacked everything together on the corners and sides with my stick welder. Brought up to dull red, dusted with borax for flux, and brought up to temp and went through the steps; fast, light blows from the center outward, re-fluxed, brought back up to temp, another set of light and fast blows, and a final flux/bring to temp before I started drawing it out to either cut & stack or just forge a blade from. This evening I cleaned it up on the grinder around the edges and noticed partial delaminations on a couple layers. I took a chisel to them and this was the result... hopefully one of you guys can give me feedback on what I may have done wrong. I feel like maybe I just missed the smooth section in the middle, and at the handle which didn’t allow it to weld up properly...

Forgot to add: the scales are some Osage Orange that a friend gifted me, and stainless pins. I took the finish to 400 grit and etched in ferric for a bit, after which I hit it with a scotchbrite pad

While messing around in the shop the other day, I forged the profile for this out of some 3/32” 1084 I’d bought to make Damascus with. I tried for a hamon because I forgot that it was 1084 and not the 1095 I have in the same size stock. Ended up not forging the bevels in due to how thin this stuff is, but here’s a few pics:

All I can say is Wow! Beautiful work sir!

A few of the guys at the wastewater treatment plant I once worked at used a very high concentration FECL on poison ivy! I don’t recommend that, but it didn’t seem to hurt them other than staining their skin for what seemed like weeks

Thanks buddy! Sorry to keep adding pics, but this shows the handle at its final finish

Finally got around to trying to figure out kydex sheath making... ended up being pretty comfortable to carry and use.

Beautiful work Alan

If I may add my penny's worth from my admittedly limited experience, find the right pressure and cadence/stroke. It seems to help me with my impatience and poor technique