Eric Morgan

Looks to me like it’s not very refined wrought iron, and I believe it’s a good practice to work it at or near welding temperatures to avoid it splitting along those grain lines. That being said, let someone with more expertise chime in and confirm or refute what I’ve said

That thing is practically oozing class

She loves doing stuff with pallet boards for some reason

Don’t let my wife see all those pallet boards...

You never fail to inspire Gary!

So this is the first blade I forged (final shaping and bevels anyway) with the dogface hammer I made a while back... started with 3/16X1-1/2 1095 bar stock. I forged in the bevels, then ended up deciding to do a full flat grind. Not at all because the bevels weren’t even and I didn’t want them to keep chasing them upward on blade. Nope, wasn’t because of that at all Anyway, I do think I’m starting to make some improvement, or it could just be confirmation bias on my part lol. I did a 320 grit finish on the blade, 220 on the G10 scales for grippyness. Pretty sure that’s the technical term

That’s a very nice looking hammer!

Sorry for your loss Jeremy. Please accept my condolences sir

Congratulations!

That's a sweet knife!

Oooohhh I’m gonna follow this closely

Very cool!

Dude that’s very nice!

I was watching a video of a guy making a leather working tool and he has a surface grinder attachment for his 2x72 that intrigued me, so I took a screenshot and thought I’d see what you guys thought of it... Heres a link to the video I saw it in:

I also forgot to put in my post that I did three normalizing cycles on the blade as best as I was able to by color in the muffle pipe. The first one I waited til the shadows ran to the spine and were gone, the second was a couple shades cooler, and the last I tried to catch it just as the blade was barely starting to have any color. Then I quenched into warmed canola oil from decalescent. Tempered at 400* for two 1-hr cycles.

Yeah, I had the cement along the plunge line and out a short way on the blade Thanks!

I was forging last week, and knocked out this smallish EDC sort of blade... my oldest daughter came over and asked to see it after it cooled down. When she picked it up, she told me how much it fit her hand... “like a redneck Cinderella” After that, I just had to finish it up for her to have. I had forged in bevels about 2/3rds of the way up the blade, but decided to go to a full flat during grinding. I started with 3/16” x 1-1/2” 1095 barstock the blade ended up right at 3”, with 1/8” G10 scales and purple construction paper (ended up being around .030-.040” compressed) liners. I used a bit of Rutland furnace cement to have a differential HT, but wasn’t expecting an actual hamon I guess... I ended up hand sanding to 400 grit on both the blade and handle, then a quick light coat of danish oil on the handle that I wiped the excess back off of and used some paste wax to finish it out.

Yep, what Alan said will get it apart. Don’t take hulk swings at it, either... small, easy taps should do the trick. Might take a bit longer, but you’ll be much less likely to break or bend something

Just take your time and you’ll be fine

I aspire to craftsmanship of this level

I’m almost ashamed to have my work in the same thread as you guys, but this is also my first hamon ever, so I gotta share it I made this blade, which was promptly claimed by my oldest daughter as her own, from 3/16 1095. This pic I did use an HDR filter to show the hamon better, but this is also only at 320 grit. I used Rutland’s furnace cement and quenched in warm Canola oil

Mine have asked if I would do the same thing... might have to give it a go

Doing some good old fashioned hand sanding on this little guy my 12-yr old has claimed for herself... we’ll see

Oh that is beautiful