Joshua States

+1 @Austin_Lyles I did some more work on my Tale of Six Blades WIP and a little forge welding on that twisted 4-way bar. After cutting it in half, I re-welded it back together with the insides out. What started as a roughly 10" long, 7/8" square bar, is now 14 " long and 5/16" thick.

Just a little bit of progress today. I have to tell you that the dagger has been taken off the bench for a long while. It will take more time than I have to devote to it right now. I did make another W2 blade. It will be an EDC take-down. I just realized that I failed to take any photos of the forging or HT process, which is a shame. Anyway, I drew down the tang and took that to 320 grit today. Then I took that big camp knife, fitted a new guard to it (third try is the charm I guess), Drilled the blind pins for the spacer package and got it indexed to the Amboyna block. (I drilled and fit the block to the tang Sunday) I also sanded the blade to 600 grit on the disc and it's ready for handle shaping.

I'm not opposed to stock removal. Sometimes it makes a lot more sense than forging anyway. I was wondering about a San-Mai application between two pieces of PW.

I think that came out great looking. I wouldn't worry about that spot by the edge. The steel will still get plenty sharp. Where do you get that 26c3?

I was wondering where this project was. Congrats on the newfound occupation. Sounds like the Force is strong with you...….or at least taking an interest in your endeavor! As for land searching, are you still set on the northeast? Other parts of the country may have the land at better pricing than you will find there.

What's funny is today I had to take a curved tang and straighten it out. I did basically the same thing, except no wet rag and I used the oxy-acetylene torch.

This is important. This is the deal. This is what I love about Gary's work.

Awesome! This is looking great Adam. What's the wood? No worries about the tang mods. I deliberately left more mass there than I would normally, just in case you had to. Did you weld/solder that little bit on, or reforge the end out?

I'm a little late to the party, but there is also this video.

As Chris already knows, my vote is the first one. I like the way it relates to the point of the bird beak. Sitting on the line that bisects the point (or close enough). A little further back would be more on the line and the space between the front pin and the edge would match the space between the rear pin and the edge. Visual balance. Odd numbers of elements are generally more attractive. It's a Greek/architectural thing. It visually establishes the center.

Excellent! BTW- both you and Conner should remember to bring your latest work with you to get feedback and critique from the teachers and more experienced folks. Getting advice from fellow forumites looking at photos is one thing. Putting the work in the hand of a Bladesmith is a whole new world. Don't be shy about it either. Hammer-ins are where you will start to build your network. Just wait until the break and ask if they would be willing to look at your work and provide feedback.

Sounds like a date. Maybe a chaperone would be in order...... Seriously though, both of you should be fine. These are not drunken frat parties. These are typically serious events about the art and how it is taught to students. The instructors that participate have reputations to maintain (and sometimes grow).

I already told you what I think, now for the questions. What are the black bits and how are they held on? What are the stats? (sizes, dimensions, etc.)

Pretty much that's it. First, get the flats of the ricasso area smooth and parallel. No ricasso? Create a small one that you remove later. Measure this thickness with the calipers. Set the calipers for roughly half that thickness and lock them. I usually set them about .002 one side or the other from center. This produces two lines and leaves about .004" between them to grind to. I set one square tube (leave the other one out) and scribe the center line with one side on the steel angle. Start at the ricasso and move to the tip. Remove that pin, set the other one, flip the blade over and scribe from the other side. BTW - the angle iron is only 7.25" long, but you can make it any length you like.

There is also this: