• Announcements

    • Alan Longmire

      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  

Joshua States

Members
  • Content count

    1,699
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    38

Joshua States last won the day on July 30

Joshua States had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

251 Excellent

5 Followers

About Joshua States

  • Rank
    Wait a minute.....what?
  • Birthday

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.dosgatosdesignsllc.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    New River, AZ
  • Interests
    Making stuff, hunting, rock climbing, philosophy, general adventure seeker.

Recent Profile Visitors

2,907 profile views
  1. You can still have that, should you choose to. My retirement plan includes moving to such a place. The lot is 8 miles off the paved road. It's a hour drive to ....well, just about anything. Except the Costco. That's 2.5 hours in the other direction. I take that back, there's a Dollar Store and a post office about 15 miles away. That's pretty good considering at my lot in NM I can't even send a text message...........no connectivity is the one thing about it that I don't always love.
  2. You can post the photo directly to this site by inserting it into a post.
  3. Mike, that is a fine first go at knife making. Depending on what steel it is, you might be able to turn that into a very usable tool with a few files and/or an angle grinder. I only say that because the "edge" is very undeveloped and would benefit greatly from some further bevel refinement. It looks like you forged the bevels in, there seems to be a couple of plunge cuts.
  4. One of the traits this forum has that makes it unique in the world of forums, is the lack of "talking down" to people and belittling them publicly. These two comments are out of place here and should be redacted. Please keep your comments civil.
  5. Have you tried making a mild steel copy of the blade, shaping the bolsters and scales to the copy, then transferring them to the blade for final assembly?
  6. Not sure how far you are from Sturgeon Bay (Madison is about a 3-hour drive I think) but Door County Forgeworks holds classes: http://doorcountyforgeworks.com/styled-20/index.html
  7. Well, a safer approach would be to buy a 1/4 inch thick piece of simple tool steel plate that is cut/ground to the size of the anvil face. Have the plate heat treated to the desired hardness and JB Weld it to the anvil................probably just as useless as trying to harden a cast iron anvil, but a lot less dangerous.
  8. Just be careful when melting any zinc alloy. The fumes are toxic. Good ventilation is necessary.
  9. It's a Damascus blade, no? The pattern is gone from the spine and belly in the handle.
  10. I have never used one of these, but I cannot seem to find a reason why you wouldn't use one, if that were your preference. It would appear to me hat this is a very versatile tool that could be used for either stock removal or forged blades. The only recommendations I can make at this time, (just from viewing the pics) is to loose the duct tape and replace it with a hose clamp or clamp similar to the one at the top of the file, add a standard file handle, and a grip on the bar at the top of the file. This would allow you to use it more as a draw file. The only disadvantage I can see is that the angle remains constant throughout the blade. This is not what you want if the blade spine profile isn't a straight line, or where the blade edge curves upward. Where the profile of the spine or the edge starts to curve, the angle of the bevel changes to accommodate the increased slope. This is probably why folks who typically freehand the file are telling you to ditch the jig.
  11. I have forged nickel-silver. I have also taken stock and scrap and melted it in a crucible and poured ingots out of it to get the size stock I need. (I save all of my non-ferrous scrap and recycle it) Here is one such N/S ingot: It measures approximately 1-5/8" x 9/16" x 1-1/8". I cast the ingot in either sand, water (Japanese style) or steel forms depending on what I want the outcome to look like. This one was cast in a steel mold. NS work hardens very rapidly so frequent annealing is necessary even when forging at a dull red heat. I typically heat till it glows and let is cool a little, forge a little, anneal, repeat. I have found that sometimes it appears to get a bluish hue when forged. I'm not sure what causes this, but it looks pretty cool. The center spacer on this knife was forged NS. It was heated to red, annealed and forged cold.
  12. I really like the process photos, thanks. I do have one question. Why did you choose to eliminate the pattern on the handle profile?
  13. As the holiday rapidly approaches once again, I invite you all to post your Samhain jack-o-lanterns up here. I just bought a mammoth pumpkin for $5 at the Safeway grocery store.......now I need some ideas.
  14. Well said Chris. I guess when the competition is that tight it comes down to minutia and personal preference. You are a gentleman and an honorable man. Thank you for your courage. It is inspirational
  15. Just watched it. Great job Chris. I loved how the hammer end of your axe punched a hole in that suit of "armor". I thought you carried the tests so I was a little confused by the decision. It really seemed like your weapon was more effective. Go figure. It was a pleasure watching you work, even what little that was shown. Note to future contestants: Light and fast is preferred over heavy and effective........