Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • Alan Longmire

      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  

Joshua States

Members
  • Content count

    1,872
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    39

Joshua States last won the day on November 14

Joshua States had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

299 Excellent

5 Followers

About Joshua States

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.dosgatosdesignsllc.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    New River, AZ
  • Interests
    Making stuff, hunting, rock climbing, philosophy, general adventure seeker.

Recent Profile Visitors

3,269 profile views
  1. Definitions and history of "Wootz" and such

    That is a good starter thread Alan, with some fine discussion by some notable Smiths, but it is short and somewhat dated. I'm fairly sure this subject should be revisited every so often (3-5 years?). If for no other reason, just to see what has changed in our collective knowledge base.
  2. Hunting knife

    Back to the blade critique......The tang looks upturned above the blade spine, clamp a stop across that at the ricasso line and take an angle grinder to rough in the bevels (even a flap wheel will will do and you can graduate the grit on the flap wheels to ease the pain of hand finishing), you might want to raise the bottom edge of the ricasso a tad bit and drop the choil, I wouldn't advise you to cast brass unless you have a very well ventilated shop and some serious PPE. If your decision to cast the guard is because you want a thick metal element before the wood, try a 1/4 inch guard and a 1/4 inch spacer separated with a very thin piece of colored paper or dyed leather. Looks great. (see pic below) Personal opinion: I prefer a high contrast rather than a low contrast. Yellow wood and brass fittings is a low contrast (unless the brass gets a patina of some sort).You could also consider applying a stain or oil to the wood to change its coloration.
  3. Definitions and history of "Wootz" and such

    First hand accounts may be difficult to obtain ;-) Back to process, how does one determine quantities of materials and even a list of materials to combine? Do we think the different historical compositions were intentional or circumstantial? Oh yeah, can we get this pinned?
  4. Blade warping O1

    I have a warp correction (more like avoidance) tool set up I use when taking a blade out of the quench. It is two 1" by 3/8" copper bars tapped and fitted to a bench vice mounted on a stump. I counter sunk the screws so I could shim the copper jaws to the correct bevel and account for the distal taper. Basically, I set the jaws so they point up and down and are just a little wider than the blade is thick. I come out of the quench and hang the blade in the jaws and tighten the snot out of the vice. The copper completes the quench rather quickly. Straighten the spine and the rest of the blade will follow. I typically wind up with O-1 at about 62 RC after quenching.
  5. First blade, feelin' proud

    Larry, I don't know how much help I can give you on sharpening because I don't think I have ever gotten a blade sharp enough to shave with. Sharp enough to cut a free hanging piece of paper? Yes. Sharp enough to cut through a rolled up paper towel? Yes. Sharp enough to cut 7 oz. leather on edge? Yep that too. Maybe my arm hair is really tough, I don't know. Anyway, My experience is that sharpening is a multi-step process much like polishing a blade out is a multi-step process. There are several different grades or grits of sharpening stones and you go from coarse to fine along the way. Some folks like oil stones. Others prefer water stones. Still more use those fancy diamond stones. I have all of the above and tend to go back and forth between different stones depending on the type of blade I am sharpening and what edge geometry I am looking for. One thing I can suggest is that you purchase a pair of electronic calipers and a pair of 5 power magnifying glasses. Get the edge down to less than .02 inch in the finish grind before you start using the stones.
  6. Definitions and history of "Wootz" and such

    Wow. A lot of info there. Thanks Tim for the elaboration on patterning and forging applications. Let's go back to the beginning for a moment and talk about process if we may. A smith would collect the raw materials required for production. Knowing where the earlier versions of this process occurred, what materials were available in those areas? Did that even matter, because materials could be brought in from virtually anywhere, even in ancient times. (the trade routes were far more established than one might think) Has anyone been able to determine the sources for these materials?
  7. Definitions and history of "Wootz" and such

    An excellent topic of conversation, and one I am keen to follow. Thank you Vern, for starting it. So, what are the variables, or components, or requirements that cause the dendritic patterning? How does someone process the iron and be assured of creating the desired effect? Is it clear that the dendritic patterning was intended by early smiths, or was it a happy circumstance?
  8. Burner Placement

    Yep. It sure would be. That's what happens when a lot of people start taking common practice and regurgitating it over and over again without actually doing some simple testing and experimenting to find out if less is more. It will work fine with all that stuff inside it. I just don't think it is necessary. Probably right, but as I look at that forge, I start to think that it's likely over-powered for its size. My prediction is that after a few uses, he will probably turn off the center burner or take it out entirely. I may be totally wrong but it looks to me like it has one too many burners and most of the heat is going to be pushed out the doors making the dragon's breath difficult to deal with. Especially once he chokes down the inner volume with an extra inch of wool.
  9. First blade, feelin' proud

    Are you asking about sharpening specifically or basic grinding?
  10. Longclaw

    4 Aces RW. Love that wolf pommel.
  11. Smelting picture

    Yeah, the mine is across the water. There are the tunnels and the strip terraces.
  12. Burner Placement

    Adding all of that refractory (2 layers of wool and a cement layer) is not ideal IMNSHO. Refractory wool and cement only starts to reflect the heat efficiently after it has come up to temp itself. The thicker you make the lining, the longer you have to wait to come up to heat, and there's no real evidence that all that refractory really helps much at the temps we typically use. I only have a single layer of 1" wool covered with about 1/4" of Satanite and my forge gets to welding temp in less than 7 minutes.
  13. The Lake Sword

    Congratulations Michael! Fire it up! Most impressive indeed.
  14. Replicating the Vered-Jericho Sword/Sword of Laban

    Making a spring swage that is a hardy tool allows you to hold the work piece and swing the hammer all by your lonesome. I would make it like a top and bottom fuller. Once I got the dies shaped I would put a groove in each one lengthwise along the domed side of the fuller. Then HT the dies and assemble the swage tool. You already have a chunk of leaf spring, why not make a spring swage/hardy tool from part of it?
  15. Auto Spell Correct?

    I've been stuck staring at this for like 5 minutes. I would do this to my computer, but I'm at work and I'm stuck staring at the video loop............
×