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Joshua States

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Everything posted by Joshua States

  1. Bummer. Now you tell me. I guess that 36" long piece of 8/4 S4S 6" wide is going to go elsewhere. All great discussion and information here. Thanks guys.
  2. A little dab'll do ya. Oh wait, that's for hair.......
  3. I think that came out really well Rob. Now that I really think about it, I may remember something about not leaving the seam a straight line, but having it get a little jagged when skiving. It will hide better. Sorry I didn't remember that earlier.....
  4. I have my set up pretty much the same as this, for both my press and LG hammer. The bottom die on my press sits roughly 48-50 inches off the floor.
  5. Minor progress today. It cooled down and Liz had to go up to Flagstaff for a few hours this morning, so I hit the forge. Finish forging on the scramasax. 37 cm blade length, 48 cm OAL. Just shy of 4cm wide. This blade has some weld problems that hopefully, will grind out. The big bar got drawn out and narrowed. It sits at 3 cm wide, almost 10 mm thick, and about 76 cm long. That big bar welded clean all the way around.
  6. When making hardy tools you need to remember two things: 1. Make the stem long enough to protrude out the bottom of the hardy hole for easier removal 2. After rough fitting the stem to the hardy hole, get the stem and base really hot and hammer/press fit it into the hole. Mark the forward face.
  7. See if this works: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AVPwQoa3cm3cqGcao0Rfvr1dnk9A42eB/view?usp=sharing
  8. That came out great Brian, and you learned a bunch of stuff along the way. Bonus!
  9. Justin! It's good to see you around here again, and great to see you still at it. Nice work there.
  10. That is a spectacular effort and finished project Aiden. +1 to that.
  11. Most wood glues will work and can be cleaned up with water when fresh. Just dampen a paper towel or cotton rag and wipe. Don't saturate it. Any contact cement or rubber cement also works well, but they are more difficult to get a really thin layer on.
  12. I have only done this type of handle once, and that was in a class with Matt Parkinson teaching. We wrapped the handles off the blade, and before the pommel was attached. This enabled us to fold the leather (just a tiny bit) over the ends of the wood and secure it with the guard and pommel. We also dyed the leather after gluing and tying with the string. Then, the completed handle was put back on the tang, and the pommel permanently set.
  13. Otto Frei is currently having a sale on SWISS MADE FILES FROM GLARDON-VALLORBE They are also having a 10% off sale on bench tools using coupon code: BENCHX https://www.ottofrei.com/jewelry-tools-equipment/bench-tools?utm_source=bronto&utm_medium=email&utm_term=Image+-+Save+10%+in+the+Bench+Tools+Category+with+Coupon+Code+BENCHX&utm_content=Swiss+Files+on+Sale+with+BENCHX&utm_campaign=The+Otto+Report+-+October+2020+Vol+5&_bta_tid=16113537935476410410207431320215207152235341842928355149291251778485440540863184379530608987922877250876
  14. With that length of blade, maybe a little extra weight in the handle and use a frame design? Looks good so far. Eager to see your progress.
  15. For the small knife, You shouldn't need anything really stout, I think. Maybe something in the tines would work?
  16. I think the handle is nicer than the blade! If you like, I'll send you some antler. I just scored an elk shed last month while hunting.
  17. The other one was what I call a "field knife" or a Hiker. Sort of a general use sheath knife. This is a take-down with Nickel-silver guard, nickel-silver and bronze spacer and pommel. This one is W2 from that Hunk O'Steel I bought from Ray Rybar back in 2016. Ironwood handle. Crazy activity in the Hamon.
  18. For those of you who were wondering, there were two knives started in this thread that I finally finished. The boot knife is a frame handle with .06" 416 vine file work around the entire handle, and 15N20 vine file work in the spacer.
  19. My latest. This is from a piece of that Hunk O'steel I bought from Ray Rybar back in 2016. Crazy activity in this one.
  20. Those are really nice knives Cal. Did you manage to keep the pattern showing on the handle area?
  21. Well it's that time again. I'm ready, who's in?
  22. That is too cool. How did you do the texture? I'm guessing it's about 6 inches long. I think that this is a perfect opportunity to make cabinet door hardware.
  23. A most excellent idea and one that is much needed. It is so easy for any maker to look at someone else's work and think "I wish I could...". We all do it. It's always important to realize that this is an art form and it takes time, patience, practice, and more practice. Never stop practicing and experimenting and you will always grow as a maker. I started making knives in 2005/2006. For the first couple of years I was a stock removal guy. I really wanted to get a good grinding process before I started to forge knives to shape. Here is the first knife I made solo, without any
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