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Joshua States

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Everything posted by Joshua States

  1. I love Kyle. He is such a goof, but I love his videos. That $110 Kukuri sort of thing is definitely Pakmascus of some sort or another. The Guy in UAE is buying them in bulk and reselling them to anyone foolish enough to buy one at a huge markup from what he paid for it. Run away, fast.
  2. Don't we all....... Very cool dude, very cool.
  3. I saw this elsewhere and already gave my praise. Here it is again. Splendorific work.
  4. I purchased 18Ga wire for the pins and a small sheet (1'x6") from Rio Grande. Sorry. 16 gauge wire, 18 gauge sheet from Otto Frei.
  5. Just in case you guys started to think I had stopped making stuff. There was a small interior remodel project I was working on, but I managed to squeeze in a few. First up, a little hunter. Flat ground O-1 3.5" blade with red bronze and nickel-silver hardware, Stabilized box elder burl handle. Next up is a O-1 Bowie. Flat ground 7-5/16" long by 1.5" wide at the choil. 410 Stainless guard and filed frame. Spacers are shibuichi with a fine silver hammered spacer and fine silver domed pins. Mammoth ivory scales.
  6. I always adjust both the airflow and the propane whenever I make a change to one. This is a matter of keeping a neutral or carburizing atmosphere inside the forge. The ratio of fuel to oxygen controls the atmosphere. If I have a fairly neutral atmosphere and up the fuel level, there won't be enough O2 inside the forge to burn that excess fuel and it will go outside the forge to find it. The dragon's breathe will extend well in front of the door and cause problems of it's own. If I then lower the fuel and leave the airflow at the higher level, the excess O2 inside the forge produces more scale
  7. It's really not that difficult to set up one forge that does both. My ribbon burner forge can be set to ride around 1850-1900F and with a small turn of a ball valve, I can get it up to welding heat and have it riding around 2400. Turn the valve back to the initial detent and I'm back at forging heat.
  8. Not to hijack Geoff's thread, but being quite fond of the Coffin handle frame myself, I fully support this idea. Now, you have to ask yourself: how much you want to play with pattern welding.
  9. Those would look great with any blade.
  10. Complimentary is my guiding principle. Sometimes a figured wood will compliment the pattern in a Damascus blade, other times, not so much. My handles range from very simple construction to complex construction with a fair amount of ornamentation. There are makers out there that make Damascus patterns that are beyond my understanding of the art and other makers whose handle ornamentation make my most complex ones looks like grade schooler's work. My mentor almost exclusively made Damascus blades in his later years. His handles (usually frame construction) incorporated the same pattern in t
  11. For most of my file work and jeweler's saw work, I made this from some mild steel. This is based on the file work clamp in Dwayne Dushane's video. It's 2x3/8" steel strap and a couple nuts, bolts, and washers. Works like a charm. For grinding folder blades, I use this.
  12. Nope. Jean-louis Regel (@jeanlouisregel1) • Instagram photos and videos and his partner: Veronique Laurent (@veroniquelaurent3) • Instagram photos and videos
  13. My squaring dies (in the link I posted) are made of mild steel. All of my press dies are mild steel and they hold up just fine. There is no need to use tool steel for press dies. They do not see the same type of impact that power hammer dies get. The press is continuous pressure, not blunt force trauma. If I were you, I would save that H13 for tooling that requires tool steel and make your press dies from mild. Another thing to recognize is that most press operations (especially welding operations) move material in small increments at a time. 1/8" per pass is pretty standard in my shop, and mo
  14. Not that the texture on that tine was all that great, to make it worth using. I was at a hammer-in type of event where a lot of handle materials were in a silent auction. There was this really nice piece of Sanbar antler . Very dense with almost no pith. I was looking at it and thinking about the work you do when another knife maker came up and asked me what I thought I'd do with it. When I told him that I would sand all that popcorn off and carve it, he was horrified. I think he outbid me just so that I wouldn't "ruin" that piece of antler. Texturing the sides of that bolster is g
  15. As long as you are going to make squaring dies, why not make a set that covers a lot of bases?
  16. Probably get a hot mess. I use this mostly to mix alloys into a new compound with variations in color. So, it's best to form a large homogenous bar that I can cut pieces off of and pour small castings that will match when I need them.
  17. I learned a trick for that from a French smith named Jean Louis Regel.
  18. Nice! Following this. That looks like my Tom Clark Hammer.....
  19. Questions: Are you planning on beveling the clip? Is that a single large spacer? (I assume this is a hidden tang construction) I like the design. It has nice lines and flow. I think you will find 1/4" is too fat for the guard. The slanted plunge looks off to me and would be better either straight or if left slated, match the slant on the back of the spacer. I'm anxious to see this one progress.
  20. I had not seen this thread before today. That is brilliant. To think that before I had a surface grinder attachment, I used a 9" bar magnet and this: https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-x-9-in-combination-belt-and-disc-sander-61750.html
  21. Today Liz and were discussing renaming one of the cats. Sprout was very small when we got her almost 3 years ago, and the vet told us she was likely a couple of years old then. (I doubted the vet) Sprout has since ballooned to almost 12 pounds, which is twice what she was when we got her. Hence the name Sprout. Liz suggested calling her Spumoni. I said Semprini. Liz didn't get the reference.
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