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Joshua States

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Everything posted by Joshua States

  1. Here is all 5 I have been working on. All are 1095 clayed with Rutlands Furnace Cement. Blades are approximately 6-8 inches long.
  2. “Only a 50 pound”???? Huh. I have a 25 pounder. Love it too.
  3. I just saw this. Tim was a very good friend of mine. Hopefully you and I will meet next weekend.
  4. Geoff, late is better than never. That will be for Mike to provide when he gets it!
  5. Today, I set a personal record. I have made 10 knives this year. The most I have ever completed in a calendar year.
  6. That Seax came out fantastic Rob. I think you and I are the only people who still use the word "whilst".
  7. Rockin" Rob. Your walkabouts are a good thing. You always come back with cool photos.
  8. Conner. Read this: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Y8X4r3wskCYO_DYxSGIQ8WmWT0Wf-T2v
  9. What a tease! Looks great Jim.
  10. "When he's not working at Applebee's" and all I could think of was that Python skit with the Dirty Fork.
  11. Oh yeah, and for those of you who do the FaceBook thing, Chiara Meucci (Pisa Italy) does some absolutely stunning leather work. Frankly she makes my work look like the scribblings of a 3rd grader.
  12. It does take some time and effort. It took me longer to resize the photos and make the post than it did to do the carving though!. Don't discount those border tools. There's lots of good decoration you can do with just a border tool and a background or seeder tool. Thank you Alan, and as I was doing this piece, I kept saying to myself "Don't rush, Alan will pin this thing. Do it right." I didn't really listen, but there you have it. My pleasure Rob. If you are thinking of doing more of that Urnes or Broa style knotwork or intertwined beasts, you really only need a knife, one or two bevels, and a background tool. Maybe a pointed spoon or similar tool for the little spots.
  13. Here you go Rob. I put up a thread in Sheaths and Leatherwork.
  14. At this point, it's go back over the bevels and shading, Smoothing out rough spots, erasing lines, pushing a little more down here and there. Generally just tuning up the carving. I did have to dampen the leather again at several points along the way. You will know when it's time because it doesn't compress as easily and won't retain the shape. Let it dry out and check it again before dying, waxing, or oiling. I hope this helps someone. It's clearly not the best work I have ever done, but considering the entire thing took me less than an hour to complete, I'd say it gets the point across.
  15. Next id background and seeding. Seeding is something that gets used in Western Flowers a lot, especially in the centers. It can also be used for background. Back ground can be smooth or textured, depending on what you want the finished piece to look like. Seeders are generally round and cup shaped. They leave a circular impression with a raised center. Some have texture as well. I will use them on the center of the flower and not worry about overlapping the circles. Back ground tools come in a variety of shapes and textures, Have some with a pointed profile helps to get into the corners. I will typically do the tight inside corners first and then complete the outlines. You can rotate the tool and overlap itself, mix the textures up, or mix smooth and textured together. Remember, it's background, it's not supposed to be a focal point.
  16. Next up is the shading/contouring of areas to give a little 3=three dimensionality to the elements in the design. Pear shaders, ball shaders, spoons, and other tools create recessed areas called shading. Here are two pear shaders, called that because of the teardrop shape (I think). Like the bevelers, they have a smooth convex surface and rounded corners. The points are used to get into tight areas. These are placed in areas where you want to simulate curves in the surface, and struck with the mallet or maul. You can also just press using hand pressure when you don't want a stark depression or are trying to roll the depression from shallow to deep. Somewhere along the way I attempted to put some grace lines in the flower petals and didn't do a very good job. Grace lines can give something more depth and dynamics (similar to wood carving).
  17. Now is when this process starts to resemble wood carving. You need to decide what is up and what is down. Instead of whittling away the "down" parts, you press them down with one of several different beveling tools. Here I have three differently sized square bevels and a deer foot tool. The bevels are wedge shaped in one cross section, rounded across the contact surface and have very smooth corners on the sides. The front (thick) and rear (thin) edges are sharp. These get placed thick edge against the cut on top of the area that is "down". Then you give it a whack with the rawhide mallet. Following all the lines and the outer perimeter, you end up with something like this. (I also did around the center circle. The deer foot and this pointed spoon are good for getting into those tight inside corners.
  18. Next step is to cut the outline using the swivel knife. You can use any knife, but the blade should be really sharp, have a sharp corner or point, and a pretty steep angle. The swivel allows you to turn curves easily. I know guys who use a handmade blade with a round handle they can roll between their fingers. Whatever works for you. Do not join the lines with cuts. You do not want the cut lines to cross at any time.
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