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Joshua States

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Everything posted by Joshua States

  1. That about wraps it up folks on the process. There is still a bit of work to do to get this finished, but here is the frame between the scales. Top side Bottom side Heel Here is the knife as it sits tonight. I still have to mark the blade, decide if I want to blue it, and finish shaping and etching the guard.
  2. So hivemind, what is the best way to bring out that wood grain texture in the wrought iron?
  3. Shaping the handle. Symmetry is everything. Remove the spacer package and a scale. Lay the frame down on a flat smooth surface like a granite slab. Get a really sharp pencil and a set of different thickness blocks. Mark a series of graduated lines around the perimeter of the scales to use as a reference when shaping. Do both scales the same way. Top, heel, and belly of the handle. Shaping is done however you feel comfortable. I use a combination of the disc, a slack belt and lots of hand sanding in the tabletop Panavice. You have to b
  4. To transfer the alignment pins to the scales, you need to ensure the frame is centered on the spine of the blade. Blacken the top of the spacer package and put it on the knife (no guard). It should fit snug and seat in it's final location. Take a straight edge and transfer the line of the blade spine onto the top of the spacer package. Do both sides. Assemble both scales to the frame and put a small dab of superglue on the ends of the frame. Push it onto the tang and center the frame on the lines on the top of the spacer. hold it until the glue sets and slide the last
  5. Now we fit the frame to the tang. By this time I have the spacer package closely shaped and all alignment pins are drilled through the spacer package. They are not drilled in the scales yet. Insert a short pin in one hole. It should not protrude from either side. Fit the guard and spacer package onto the knife and get a tight fit. Fit one scale to the frame and blacken the inside edge with a Sharpie pen. Slide the scale/frame under the tang and but it tight to the spacer package. Scribe a line where you need to remove material from the frame, and mark where you
  6. Now to fit the scales to the frame. Frist step is drilling the holes. This is the same procedure as when I drilled the holes in the frame from the template, except I am using the frame to transfer the hole to the scales. I am NOT using the template. Drill the front two holes first. This pretty much stabilizes the frame location. Drill a hole, put a pin in, lather, rinse, repeat. Make sure you put the scales on opposite sides of the frame and do each scale for a specific side. This is really important when you have book matched scales and want to keep the grain ori
  7. Now it is time to HT the frame, if you made it from hardenable steel. Do a fairly soft or spring temper. I hand sanded the flats to 220 grit on the granite slab. What is important is that there is a continuous flat around the outside edge. This is what fill fit against the scales and you do not want any gaps. The ivory I have for this warped a bit in the last 6 years. I tried the mineral oil and clamp overnight. We will see how well it worked this morning. I also etched the blade yesterday. I had already fit the guard and spacers to the un
  8. We own 3 welders. 4 if you count the spot welder and 5 if you count the O/A torch. The flux cored wire welder is 110 only and I mostly use it for working outside. The solid core with CO2 is the primary welder and we use it for 95% of what we need a welder for. It is a 220V setup. The TIG is a PITA to use IMNSHO. i suppose if I used it more often, I wouldn't be fiddling with the dials so much and burning cups and electrodes so often. I use the wire feed to tack up my billets. Now, my initial billets are around 20 layer stacks and around 3 inches tall and 6 inches long and 1-1/2 inch
  9. I am watching your tile piece project because I recently tried a canoe with the cut offs from this blade and had less than spectacular results. Hopefully, I will learn something and find a way to salvage the steel.
  10. I don't mind at all, and it's not as precise as you might think. It does fit well enough for me at this point. Here's what I did and it was easier than I thought once I figured out a few things. I get the rough butt cap (square) fit with blind pins, so it cannot move. Blacken the face that fits against the antler with a Sharpie pen and assemble. Now I scribe the edge of the antler with a fine carbide scribe into the black. Remove the but cap and take it to the bandsaw to remove the excess material. I was originally going to laboriously file away until I got down to the line, but I remembered a
  11. That is priceless info right there.
  12. Now onto the fun. I took that 13 layer bar, twisted the snot out of it and flattened it. Here is the glamor shot. I cut the untwisted ends off it. Welds look good. This cut really easily on the bandsaw , so I split it down the middle. Now I thought about this for a minute or two and decided to try something new. (dangerous business when you have a time limitation). But the handle I want has some pretty tight corners. These tend to break when you bend the bar that way. So I decided to cut a notch in the bar to make
  13. When I started this project, I had a handle in mind that I have used before. I also have a pair of really nice ivory scales I have been saving for 6 years or so, for a special project that would work wonderfully on this knife. This knife will also have a wrought iron guard and spacers. I thought abut making the frame from a billet of 13 layer wrought/HC I have, but I was planning that for another project and decided to just use that piece of HC twist I already had. I should have listened to myself. Trying to shape that piece to the template I really wanted to use was a bear and I couldn't make
  14. Yes folks it happens. The first time you do this, you will try and pull it out with pliers or beat it out with a punch. Don't do that. Leave it in there as a holding pin and move on with a new bit and finish drilling the rest of the holes. Then take that template, turn it over and pin it to the other side. Now turn the speed down really slow and back drill the pin hole through the other side. Use a lubricant and the new drill bit will push that broken bit out.
  15. Most of you know that I work from templates a lot. This is no exception. Take your frame template and scribe the perimeter on the anvil face with a soapstone or white charcoal pencil. Now forge the twisted bar to match the drawing. I have space in front of this for a spacer package in the knife design. Now lay the template over the forged form and make sure the form is at least a little bigger than the template, and all the pin holes will pass though the steel. You can see two small delams in this photo. I got lucky though. The upper one is not too de
  16. In another thread I showed the beginning steps in creating a Damascus frame handle. I figured I would post the rest of it as I do it. The first steps I showed in the other thread are to forge out a twisted bar of low layer (7-15) and flatten it to about 3/4" wide and at least 1/4" thick. Now the reason most people use twist is to have the stars show on the outside of the frame. The stars are located in the center third of the bar. So the easiest way to get them outside is to split the bar lengthwise. If the bar is long enough to make the entire profile of the fram
  17. I just finished up these two. The first is the finished By-Knife from that longseax billet I haven't finished yet.... Copper alloy bolster, deer antler spacer and scorched ash handle. My lame attempt at carving something. 5" blade, 10.25 OAL The next one is another cubic inch challenge, except that it started as much less than a cubic inch. Sambar stag handle, 410 Stainless hardware. 3.25" blade from point to face of guard. 7.75" OAL I have wanted to try this thing where the butt cap is filed to match the antle
  18. That should be a very welcome addition to the farmstead. The tapered tang is a very nice touch.
  19. This is obviously some new usage of the word "simple" I am not previously acquainted with.....Bravo sir!
  20. Do it once and you will never forget it.
  21. The situation with the frame/tang relationship is going to cause some challenges further down the road. One of them you have already identified. The pins in general now will have to follow the upper right pin's location for spacing from the edge of the frame. I think you will find the pins being pushed too far to the outside edge. This puts them in the center of the curve of the scale. This makes them a bear to dome, and if you decide to grind them flush, they are oval, not round. Anyway, here is a technique you can use for the next time you do this. Twist Damascus frames are
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