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Joshua States

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Everything posted by Joshua States

  1. The steel is a piece of Don Hanson's W2. Yes, it was planned. You can see the making of that knife in two places on the web. This forum, mixed in with a bunch of other knives, some of which wound up in this JS set. The ABS Forum, as a solo project build. I think that is because of the shallow hardening attribute. If you do a fair amount of post-HT grinding, you will invariably grind through the 3mm of hardened martensite into the less hardened austenite (?) and the hamon will appear. Sometimes you can see the hamon form after the quench because of the bevel. There is s
  2. Excellent. Simply elegant in every way possible. Someone really needs to put a post in this thread, if you haven't already
  3. I did a lot here that made it more challenging and a lot more difficult to pass. Not only did I put a dagger in there, it is a through tang and the pommel is held on with a peened pin through the tang. The Bowie has a frame handle with file work, and every knife has a spacer package behind the guard. All of that is extra work that is not required. If I were to give someone advice on doing a JS set, it would be KISS. All that being said, one of the MS on the panel, who I did not know and had never met, came and found me at my table to compliment me on my knives. Hancock pushed me
  4. I got the photo proof back yesterday from Whetstone studio of my full set. Some of these you have likely seen already. These are the five that were in the judging room
  5. Cool beans. Quench the O-1 at 1475. If you can find some medium speed oil, that's even better.
  6. Check this thread For a temporary anvil on the cheap, you can get a 16 or 20 pound sledge hammer at the hardware store or home improvement big-box for under $100. Less at garage sales or second-hand shops. Take the head off the handle and bury one face in that anvil stand. If you are going to be doing your blades with files, check this thread for what files to start getting. I have a ton of files, but only three or four I use for blade bevels. A decent angle grinder will come in extremely handy, Even a cheap one from Harbor Freight is better than none. You
  7. Everything you do with any steel is good learning. I may be biased about O-1, but I think you will love it for blades. It just finishes so purdy. That's your home-made HT oven?
  8. We lost power for several hours yesterday during the storm that dumped 6 inches of rain on us. So, I recoated the inside of the welding forge. This will take a few days to cure.
  9. I worked the slot/hole with a bunch of different drifts. Eventually, I started using some of my axe drifts to enlarge the slot and neck down the sides with the drift in the slot to make a pear shape. Then I spread the sides and edge out using a cross peen Flattened and refined the shape bit. After some minor shaping and clean up on the grinder
  10. Although I am not officially in the KITH this year, I have been doing several 1 cubic inch knives lately as kind of side projects. The idea for this one came from Mace Vitale through Matthew Parkinson. Mace made a rather large ring out of 1ci and it got me thinking.... I took a piece of 1" drill rod (W1 steel) and flattened it out in the press Once I got it down to about 1/4" thick, I punched a hole in the center and slotted it toward one side. I opened it up with some chisels and started to spread the hole out.
  11. Doing the spring thing is easy if you make the U-bend and then weld the fullers to it. that way you can get them lined up no matter what
  12. What will you be using the fuller for? I have several fullering tools for the hardy hole and none of them use a spring. That is the basic process, but then again, how are you using the fullering tool? I made a spring type of fullering tool once and I just took a 3/16" by 2" strap and curved it into a U-shape. Then I welded two pieces of 3/4" rod to the ends so there was about 1/8" gap between the rods. All mild steel, no hardening, no tempering. That worked OK for a while and then I built one with a hinge rather than a spring. It looks like this. Sitting
  13. Introducing......the mammalian protuberance pommel.
  14. Well, I have a couple of home projects and other stuff. So, when the customer asked for a timeline, I told him it would probably take a year to complete. So be aware, this one will not be fast.
  15. You are turning out some fine pieces lately.
  16. On the plus side, I took that hearth steel, re-melted nails bar, and ground one face to see how well it was consolidated. After grinding into it, I decided to add some more steel to it just to be sure the bar had enough mass for the edge of this blade. That welded up nicely.
  17. A bit of a hiccup today. I was working on welding the fold for another billet and had the forge running pretty hot. I forgot to reduce the heat and the bar for the twists broke in half when trying to retrieve it for drawing out. The grain got a bit gnarly in the excessive heat. It may be scrap now. I have it in a long heating/hold/cooling program in the paragon. We will see if that helps.
  18. Not much progress to report unfortunately. Yesterday, the on/off switch on the press went out soon after the first weld was completed. I went to my second home (Home Depot) and picked up another plus a spare. This morning it was above 90*F in the shop by 6:30 and rather humid. I did manage to get that billet split and folded. This took a lot of heat to get it soaked well enough to weld.
  19. So I have some forging to do tomorrow and I'm making some Damascus for a commission, and a couple of chef knives (also commissions) and I figured I would take another shot at that scramasax. So I got the pieces parts together tonight for an early start in the morning.
  20. I was recently contacted by someone through my FB page asking about a dagger I made several years ago (2016?). He wanted to know if I could make another one and how much it would cost. Now you know why I use templates! I have the blade, guard, and handle templates from this dagger and can reproduce a fairly accurate copy. This is a 9-bar blade, and it's accordion cut, so I need a big hunk of steel. Here is the starting billet. 3.25" x 1.5" x 5.5"
  21. I tacked up a couple of billets for some new projects and will start forging them tomorrow. Pics elsewhere in the forum.
  22. I love watching that video.
  23. OK here goes. Some of your new comments give me more to work with. The 300+ layer PW is something of a universal benchmark and definitely something to be proud of. The steel (at least the side you have chosen to show us) looks very solid with no weld flaws or voids. Serious kudos for that. The design leaves much to be desired, Seax inspired or not. The break from the spine of the blade to the spine of the handle looks like a mistake. It looks like it should be a straight line, but you missed it. If you wanted to have the blade spine sweep upward, it should do so with a gentle curve,
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