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Joshua States

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Everything posted by Joshua States

  1. What? No close up shot of that sweet Damascus chef knife?!?!?
  2. That Nakiri didn't survive the quench either, so today I made another pair. I like these much better anyway, so all's well that ends well.
  3. Awesome success Alan. It's a stark contrast to the spectacular quench fail I had this morning.
  4. I had no idea. Can you take a photo?
  5. C'est tres bon monsieur. oserais-je dire, magnifique
  6. Melting glaciers reveal Viking pass hidden for centuries (bbc.com)
  7. Nice! I have to try that wolf-tooth pattern
  8. Very clean sculpting on all parts of the handle. Looks great
  9. I made the sheath today Front back side view
  10. That really came out beutifully. The olive wood really sings, but I'm overly partial to anything Sicilian.......
  11. I use these: https://www.riogrande.com/product/red-fine-abrasive-silicone-polishing-pins/332694GP/?code=332694 in a rotary tool with the matching mandrel: https://www.riogrande.com/product/red-fine-abrasive-silicone-polishing-pins/332694GP/?code=332694 I really like them. For most pins, I only use the red rods to start and the green rods to finish. Honestly, I think rubberized abrasives make this whole process of polishing pins, rope filework, and generally finishing most metal parts so much faster and easier. I also use a variety of small wheels for different applications. My entire process for handle pins is here: Finishing Handle Pins - Video and Multimedia - Bladesmith's Forum Board (bladesmithsforum.com)
  12. Archaeologists Discover a 'High-End' Blacksmith's Iron Age Workshop (msn.com)
  13. It is done. Lousy day for taking photos outside, so you get some shop photos with the phone. Name side Stamp side Name side after oiling the wood a bit. Handle top Handle bottom Let me know what you think.......
  14. Yes. Yes indeed it was. If I have nothing good to say, I say nothing at all. Unless someone asks me for a critique, it which case I am brutally honest.
  15. This is absolutely a wonderful idea and perfect execution. I Love it! I made myself one of those tool boxes many years ago when I was working full-time as a carpenter. I needed a way to separate finish tools from rough tools. It became my finish work "go-box" that I could grab and go to work with. Mine has two interior separators, one runs from side to side and the other from end to end. Chisels, dividers, and a small block plane went it the small compartment while sandpaper and the handsaws went in the longer one. I even had a pencil shapener screwed to the end! I'm cetain that he will cherish this forever and always tell the story of how he and granddaddy built it together.
  16. Sounds like a fun build and pretty good job for your first frame handle. I think I understand this. The welded bar conects the spine to the belly of the frame? There's a hole in that bar that the threaded tang goes through and a nut to hold the frame tight to the spacer? Is that right?
  17. Yesterday I hollowed out the backs of the scales and drilled the liners for epoxy. I also created rough depressions in the frame of the handle under the drilled holes. I forgot to take photos of the whole process, and here is the primary holes in the liners with black dots marking the location of additional 3/16" holes that were drilled later. This is glued and curing right now. Next, I will peen and dome the pins, sharpen, and the knife is done. I have a few sheaths to make including this one.
  18. Ain't that the truth!. The blind pins will help getting the fit right pre-etch. I check the final fit after etch and before soldering. I had to do a little extra grinding and hand sanding to get it really smooth inside the fingerloops. A Trizac A-45 made quick work of that. The shallow depressions in the back of the bolster and on the face of the blade stem allow you to clamp the bolsters tight against the blade. The outside keeps any solder from running out. There is a little slot in the top of the bolster that is covered by the scales. This is where you feed the solder in. The blade prep. You can see this is before etching. To keep this area clean for solder, I protected it with nail polish during the etch cycles. I cut a tiny piece of solder and put it in the bottom of each hole and a thin silver bearing solder wire lays in the depressed area. Insert the pins into the holes on one bolster and push the pins through the blade. Put the next bolster on the pins and clamp. Heat the bottom of the bolster and feed the solder into the top of the groove. When the channel fills, stop. You have now soldered the pins to the bolsters and the bolsters to the blade. No seepage or clean up needed. Just use some metal polish to remove the discoloration from the bolsters. I've been doing nickel-silver bolsters this way since about 2018. I learned the basic technique on this forum actually from @Brian Dougherty in this thread. (it really pays off reading the pinned threads on this site) I just added the recessed channel technique to contain the solder.
  19. Well, I finished the filework on the underside of the handle liners. Some of the black background is missing. I will put that in before final glue up. Then I soldered the bolsters on. Now I get to prep liners and scales for epoxy. I need to remove some material in the liners and underside of the handle scales to form epoxy "rivits" to hold everything together.
  20. That antler is really pretty. The blade is looking great.
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