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Joshua States

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Everything posted by Joshua States

  1. Thanks for the clarification Jerrod. It's welcome. Tooling and hammer control. (it took me a long time to gain any control, and it's still a WIP, so I rely on my tooling quite a bit) For those of you with a power hammer or a press, get your dies set up so the ends are aligned and use the machine to set the plunge cuts. If you lack either of those, you can make a spring fuller or scissor fuller tool to do it by hand. You can also do it on the edge of the anvil with no tooling. The trick is using the right tongs and using them to limit the area affected by the hammer, press or fuller. There are two camps in blade forging. The first camp likes to forge the tang first, because it is easier to grip with a small pair of tongs. The second camp forges the blade out first and the tang last. If you are in the first camp, you will need a pair of offset tongs, the second camp can use a box-jaw tong or offset tongs, the tongs just have to fit the size of the stock. Mark the location where you want the plunge cut on one side of the blade blank with a soapstone or white charcoal pencil. Remember to leave yourself some extra room for the grinding process. Bring the steel up to heat and grip the tongs on the hot steel at that line. Butt the tongs up against the tooling or the anvil edge and strike the plunge on the first side, flip it over (don't move the tongs!) and strike the other side. Repeat as necessary to develop the plunge cut.
  2. I'm not sure that is entirely accurate, but I am no expert either. The etymology of the English word "knife" has it's roots in old Norse mixed with old Germanic tribal languages, with multiple pronunciations, all relativly similar to the current form. Seax, or Sax as it has become shortened to over the centuries, I think is derived from the Irish and Welsh languages and referred to the blades commonly used by the Saxons. It is unknown why they were called Saxons, but it is assumed that they were named after the long, thin blades common to their culture, which they called Seaxes. These were later adopted by the people who they encountered. This is only one hypothesis though. The construction and form of the Seax blade is ancient, stretching back to the European migration era, if not earlier. It was the most common form of weaponry in Europe for roughly 5 or 6 centuries, before it evolved into a single, and eventually double, edged sword. Seax may have been used interchangeably, in some languages, for a generic "knife", but the Seax, was a weapon first and foremost. Utilitarian blades purposely had different names. At least that's my understanding.
  3. You are there right now. Seriously, this is the place. Mosey on over to the History sub-forum. The first four pinned topics are chock full of everything you need to know to get started down that path. The folks who have written these posts did so while doing the research you are trying to do. The authors have very graciously, posted their findings, and tons of information on design and construction. There is also a great resource topic: Vikverirs Resource page, that has a major rabbit hole (or two) on it, for inspiration.
  4. Small update. I did re-forge that Bowie. It's a little shorter than the original, but I like it. Still need to profile and rough grind before HT. This is as-forged I also took the full tang B&T to 400 grit, etched my mark, soldered the bolsters on and fit the scales. Then I fit the guard on the small hunter, finished the blade to 600 grit, etched my mark, and got all the pieces-parts fit together I also cast a 3/32" pin. Next up is indexing the blind pins to keep it all straight.
  5. If you have a lot of scale buildup, you should be fine tuning your mixture. Do you have a needle valve on the gas and a gate valve on the blower line?
  6. I have 3 cheap chainsaws. Two of them work. Had them for years. One turns over real nice but won't run. I'm installing the rebuilt regulators on my oxy-acetylene rig. $65 and they look brand new.
  7. This has been a difficult week for me. Tim passed away last Thursday (?) I really cannot remember. Tim was an exceptional craftsman and mentor. He was also a very close friend. It is with great sadness and a heavy heart that I share with you the passing of one of the most wonderful persons I have ever known. He was my mentor, my inspiration, and my friend. He gave selflessly of his time and knowledge to a wide variety of students and it made me immensely proud to have him call me one of his apprentices. His spirit lives on in those of us who knew him, shared life and stories with him, and marvelled at his achievements. We will miss him dearly and never forget the gifts he gave us. We can never thank Tim Hancock enough.
  8. You have a disc sander if I remember correctly?
  9. Same basic concept, grinding deeper at the distal end, just that is a 2-step process. Let's assume for a moment that you have a center line scribing tool or jig of some sort that you use when grinding the edge of the blade. Use the same tool to mark the center line of the tang. now you have reference line when grinding the distal taper. If you set the scribing jig to be a few thousandths off center, you will end up with two lines running down the tang for reference. If you wanted to get really technical, do the math. Let's say you have a tang that is roughly uniform in thickness at 6,5 mm. You want the tang to taper from 6,5mm to half that at the distal end. Set the scribe at a little over 1,5 mm and scribe two lines (one with each side down) on each edge of the tang. You now have a visual reference to grind to.
  10. This is a very cool project. Following.
  11. The tang should be tapered in both height and thickness.Height is easy to do on the 2x72 or with an angle grinder. Just scribe a line and grind to it. Thickness is where it gets tricky, but the only real "trick" is either dragging it slowly across the platen and slowing down as you go, or using the disc and dragging it across the face. Either of these two methods will grind heavier at the distal end of the tang than at the shoulders. The distal taper in the blade only happens by default if the spine of the blade angles down toward the edge. Even so, the taper will only begin where the spine starts to drop. The rest of the blade remains a constant thickness. This is not always desirable. If the spine is straight, and uniform, it will remain that way unless you manually put the taper in. This can be done in the forging, or in the grinding.
  12. I wouldn't change anything in your normalization process. Normalizing is most efficiently done in the forge. You might want to start using a baffle tube to get a more even heat and avoid the whole moving the blade in & out business. I usually only normalize after forging. Then I do all of my rough grinding and go for hardening and tempering. Rarely do I do another normalization prior to H&T. Now for the hardening & tempering processes, you have a choice. 1. Continue to use the forge to bring the blade up to MS temp and quench. Use the oven only to temper back. 2. Set the oven for the correct MS temp for the steel you are using, bring the blade up to temp and quench. Let the oven cool down and reset the temp for tempering and put the blade in.
  13. I love my swage block, even though it is banged up pretty badly. I have found that a swage with a dish is excellent for forge welding the bird's mouth on the tip.
  14. I think that carving looks great. Way better than the misshapen things I have done anyway. I like that Warncliff style blade too. Extremely useful in the garden.
  15. Well, today was a day to go back to work on this beastie. So, I fired up the wife's 3-burner NC Whisper Daddy (sorry Alan, I couldn't see using the coal forge when it was like 110*F outside) jacked the psi up to 7 and went to town. Not quite what I had in mind, but I think the next one will go much smoother.
  16. I just saw this and what a beauty. Congrats on the marriage.
  17. You could have a chance to get this one. All you have to do is make a knife that meets the criteria for this KITH. You think you don't have the chops to make a slip joint? So make a small fixed edc or a friction folder. KITH is not about making something fantastic or impressing each other. It's about community and sharing. It's about trying to make something that fits a specific set of parameters and watching and encouraging each other through the process. You of all "beginners" here should not be shy about KITH. You have nothing to be scared or ashamed of.
  18. Hmmmm. It's my flex day. I think I'll do some forging. It's only 116* in the shop
  19. I watched this progress on FB as I got the updates. Stellar work Jake.
  20. I don't know what it was before, but I am loving that now. That could also become a nice platform for some engraving.
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