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Joshua States

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Everything posted by Joshua States

  1. I have not used these two for San Mai or any forge welding ops. I do not think it's an incompatibility issue though. If it were, it would probably display at the weld lines. O-1 doesn't move as fast under the hammer as WI does, so I would expect the problem would appear in the welds before causing the O-1 to split. I use a lot of O-1 drill rod and forge it down for blades. It's my favorite steel. I know some folks use O-1 in Damascus, but I avoid any chromium alloy steels for mine. I know that in theory, it shouldn't matter unless you try welding it to itself, but that's theory. You should get the same coloration and effect using 1095 instead of O-1 and have a much easier welding operation.
  2. If I had to guess, I would say that is a stress fracture from forging too cold.
  3. OK. So my next question is how hot are you forging? O-1 likes to be forged HOT. Like 1800*F and above hot.
  4. Two things I can add to this discussion. 1. An agressive etch is best achieved by agitating the acid to shake off the oxidation during the etch. I use a fish tank bubbler in my etch tank. 2. To really lock in the dark on any Damascus, apply bluing and then sand down the surface with that fine grit paper. My results.
  5. I have heard it said that there is a saddle for every butt and a butt for every saddle. Some people like a beefier handle, some don't. When I make a grouping of kitchen knives, I try and make a variety of handle shapes and sizes.
  6. I'm not following the story line in conjunction with the photos. The first pic is of the edge, yes? If so, it definitely looks like a weld flaw between the jacket and the core. The second pic is a little too fuzzy to be certain, but it looks like there are two flaws. One is right by the thumb and looks like a sheared weld, the other is a dark line through the jacket to the core.
  7. My wife uses muriatic acid in her artwork and has left a large open tray in the shop twice. The last time she left it under the workbench and I couldn't find it for a couple of days. Everything in the shop rusted, even my 400 series stainless sheet stock. The non-ferrous sheets developed a coating of greenish corrosion and the regulators on the oxy-acetylene and MIG welder were toast.
  8. I caught glimpses of this in process on FB. What a journey it was. That came out spectacular Matt.
  9. Those are big blades, by most standards, unless that length includes the handle. The one size fits all forge works for some folks and not for others. Generally speaking, most tool steels used for blades are not forged at welding heats. So, if you want only one forge, it needs to be easily adjusted between say 1600*F and 2400* F. This is not as simple as just turning up or down the psi on the regulator. Gas/air mixtures need to be redone to avoid decarb and scale production. It gets to be a lot of fiddling sometimes. Over the years I found myself changing my forge around a number of times. I think a lot of us have done this. I now have a dedicated welding forge for my Damascus work, with a blown ribbon burner, and sometimes use a venturi type burner forge for general forging. I have my welding forge set up so that I can easily reduce the gas flow and a couple quick turns of the air valve will make it settle out to regular forging heat. I do this when reducing stock that doesn't need welding heat, but I want it to come up to heat quickly. (I use a lot of 1 inch drill rod or big hunks of W-2 as blade steel) My advice is this. If you are new to the craft, make a general purpose forge that will get you to forging heats for the steels you use. When you feel confident in your forging and want to move to Damascus and forge welding, build a ribbon burner. I posted some easy instructions in the Tools and Tool making section.
  10. Thanks Zeb. My pattern welding day got kind of sidetracked. These are all 1095 except one of them (I think the one on the far right) which is scrapmascus,
  11. Yeah. I love seeing these geological masterpieces. Thanks Brian.
  12. We have a show in November and I need some knives to sell.
  13. Preface: I have not watched the video Zeb posted. Mostly because YouTube experts irritate me and I'm trying to relax before going to bed. I have a problem with this train of thought, in my barely educated, not so well informed mind. From what research I have managed to accomplish on the subject of the Seax, we really do not have a wealth of knowledge of the handle form. Were they straight? Hourglass shaped? Did they incorporate finger notches, ridges, or some other detail that allowed the user to keep the hand firmly on the grip? We really don't know. We have some relics with partial or mostly intact handles, but really, it's a very small percentage of the Seaxes we have found. So not a really clear representation of the handle form. It would also be easy to assume that the opposite is also true. That a wide swinging arc of a Langsax is also risky because there's no pommel or bird's head to keep it from flying out of your hand. Now, I find it difficult at best to accept that a weapon that dominated continental Europe for roughly 500 years would do so with a handle design that made stabbing your opponent so risky, without someone coming up with a way to fix it. Humans just don't live with a design flaw in an important tool for 5 centuries and just say "well, that's just how it is". They redesign and fix the error. Usually, after the second or third time it causes a problem. So I conclude that the handle was designed and shaped to prohibit the hand sliding up onto the blade in a stabbing motion or flying out of your hand in a swinging arc. This is really easy to accomplish with a little tapering. Only a modern person, who is so accustomed to the presence of a dangling guard, would assume that the lack of one would automatically cause a critical error in usage. Rant complete.
  14. I think it's more that he is dependent upon creating videos to make $, and any video, regardless of how banal it may be, is better than not posting a video.
  15. This is the meat of the matter. The two are remarkably similar in etching ability, but the ferric will darken the plain carbon steel layers much more dramatically that the plain HCL will. Sometimes I like the look of a plain HCl etch.
  16. West Systems marine epoxy is also popular for its holding power and longevity. I have made several partial tang knives with no retention pin, including my own personal hunter, and not had any failures. I always put a few notches in the tang for additional security.
  17. OK so you will pay the price, but will the customer?
  18. This video by Matt Easton made its way through the FB discussion groups and I watched it. I did not respond on the YT site, but I offered my response to the process on FB. I think Matt Parkinson's comment "Modern steels require modern methods" pretty well summed up why modern smiths do what they do rather than rely on centuries old tech and methods. Anyway, I never liked the idea of inserting a serious phase change at the tang/blade junction by not hardening the tang. I say through harden everything and draw back the tang.
  19. Robb, That came out fantastic and the video is way cool. I love how that tree just stood there for a moment kind of wondering what just happened before it fell over.
  20. Just watched this. I don't remember ever seeing your hammer running before. That things works really well!
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