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Joshua States

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Everything posted by Joshua States

  1. Very cool looking handle scales. Is that some sort of stabilized wood burl?
  2. This weekend I managed to fit the handle scales, rough shape the guard, HT the fittings, and profile the handle to 400 grit. Later this week, I will shape the handle and etch the frame and spacers. The fittings after HT. Dry fit the handle with spacer package Dry fit the handle with the guard I really need to pay more attention to what is behind the subject in the photo. That old sock sticking out of the orange bucket isn't doing me any favors here.
  3. I did finish the peen block, but today I totally screwed up the bronze brazed rod in the tang and need to make another one. Here is the handle with ornamentation dry fit on the blade. Side one Side 2 I wish I had noticed the fly swatter when taking these pics........
  4. Where was I? It's been crazy lately, but I did get to work on a few items in the shop this weekend. I made a lot of adjustments to the handle and started thinking about embellishments. There's something about large smooth faces that irks me. So, I decided to do some Vendel period oculi carvings in that ivory. After making a little tool out of a scrap piece of 3/16" round rod, I laid out the positions and cut them with the tool in a hand rill. Smeared over the blue tape with some Fiebing's antique finish And removed the tape.
  5. I've been watching the progress on various social media ad these are all great pieces. Love them all.
  6. This usually happens to me on the disc. I typically also take it up , but when I want to leave that little flat line along the spine, I take it out by hand with 220. Nice looking knife Eric. I'm not terribly fond of the blade finish, but that handle came out great. nice positioning with that crown to get the bird beak shape.
  7. Well, I drew lines from top of pomell cap to top of bolster plate, and another one from the bottoms of both pieces. Extending them along the blade shows the drop and a kink where the handle meets the blade.
  8. Do you agree that the bolster/guard plate originally extended below the edge, or was the blade actually wider at that point?
  9. I should have included the close up of the bolster. The top definitely needs to be tighter. If we take that photo we are all familiar with, at the beginning of this thread and enlarge it, what do you see? I think this shows a reduction in blade width, probably fom sharpening over the years. The curvature suggests that they were not able to get all the way into the bolster, and the bottom of the bolster protrudes below the edge. I think this is the original form. What do you guys think?
  10. Today was a lot of work and not without some frustration. I took the handle up to 800 grit, only to reveal a small interior crack in the ivory. Handle with some wax. Small crack Just to give a visual on this. Now you have a sneak peek at the patten. Yes, I etched the blade today. The photos aren't geat, so I have a little video of the etched blade. I also have a couple of pics of the blade and handle as of tonight. Tomorrow I will work on the peen block.
  11. Yeah, I know the feeling. I keep checking the photos and doing the math to get the sizes right.
  12. Today I set myself to making some changes. Comments, criticisms and suggestions are welcome as always. I adjusted the profile and straightened out the spine. Then I reduced the edge belly and pointed the tip a little more. I finished the blade to 400 grit. Then I reshaped the handle a little and sanded it down again to 220. This will get hand sanded to about 800 or so. The newest version without the final peen block. I think I still need to reduce the handle/guard plate on the underside.
  13. The best way to tidy up the stitching IMO is to groove between the holes so the threads sit down into the leather a little.
  14. The only way I know of to do this is to start in one direction and turn around and go back over it returning to the beginning point. This ends up being similar to the saddle stitch without the interior tie. The two ends are then doubled back into the first stitch and tied together. The holes go straight through, just like with a saddle stitch. Some ancient sheaths I've seen in books had remnants of sepentine stitching, but they used iron wire, not gut or cloth thread. Tightening the stitching is done after all the thread is run in both directions. Each stitch, starting at the far end, not the beginning, is pulled tight until you get to the starting end. Then you double the first stitch and tie it off.
  15. I got box in the mail yesterday! I immediately unpacked it and started using the tools. Pretty nice!
  16. Almost any big hunk of steel with a flat surface can be used as a Bladesmith's/Blacksmith's anvil. That looks like it's in decent shape, no chips or broken bits. I'll wait for the anvil officionados to chime in on the origin.
  17. Just tired and not understanding what I'm reading
  18. Can you roll it over so they are on the side wall instead?
  19. I made templates for the bolster and pommel cap today and ground them to shape. Then I set about shaping the handle to them. Still a ways to go, but it is at 220 grit. Bolster/guard on the rough handle wth the blade. Front after grinding down. Heel end. The temporary assembly for citical checks and evaluation before continuing. When you take the photo of the Nijmegen seax and blow it up, you can draw lines and evaluate the geometry. If you take a straight line that connects the top of the pommel cap to the top of the bolster and extend it, you will see the spine of the blade starts to taper downward fairly quickly. Doing the same with the bottoms of the two fittings, you will see the edge drops below that line as well. I think I have a little too much drop on the edge and the drop on the spine starts too late. I will have to do some profile grinding of the blade to get the shape right.
  20. For those of you unfamiliar with the frame handle process, I have posted a separate thread with all the steps. This will show a shortened version. The actual frame is twist Damascus with some nickel-silver liners. This is different fom the previous method in that I am starting with a 2-piece construction. I take a flattened, twisted bar and split it in half. The hole is drilled where the bar needs to be bent to accomodate the turn in the handle profile. These are then surfaced again, laid onto the piece of 1/4" MDF board. and arranged under the template for drilling. The liners are done in the same manner as in the How I do Them post. After dilling and removing the excess, the finished frame and liners are now ready for the scales.
  21. Then I use a threaded rod to hold eveything together fo roughing the handle shape. Fit the pommel cap Full view at this point
  22. I've had some time to work on the handle. I got some walrus ivory and some stabilzed walnt burl and set to work fitting the pieces to the tang and blind pinning them all together. I'm using pieces of vulcanized paper for the index cards. 1/16" Steel pins get dilled in the mini-mill Transferred to the wood block Eventually, the whole thing locks together on the tang.
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