Jump to content

Joshua States

Members
  • Posts

    6,544
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    210

Posts posted by Joshua States

  1. On 4/7/2024 at 7:09 AM, Kerri Duncan said:

    Jumping into the 1095 normalizing and annealing research next- want to get these things on the go asap so gotta learn before the burn!

    https://cashenblades.com/2021/02/08/1095/

     

    That will get you everything you need to know.

     

    I know what I would do with that steel, depending on how wide it is. I would stack that up with some 15N20 and make pattern weld billets out of it. The layer count would be really high realy fast.

  2. No idea on that anvil, but I like that base. Reminds me of something.....

    Anyway, I worked on a 200 pound Peter Wright for a long time and recently switched to a 160 pound fisher.

    The PW was refaced and not very lively and the Fisher is a dream to use. I'm not sure the extra 60 pounds will make that much difference, but the truth is they list the 200 pounder as out of stock. So depending on how much time you have......the choice may already be made.

  3. Update 2024......

    I went out the last weekend of March to finish hooking up the well pump and water supply. 

    The house now has all utilities and gas for the stove, heat, and water heater.

    This happened March 30 and I woke up to 3 inches of fresh snow.

    March 30 Snow V2.jpg

    • Like 2
  4. 18 minutes ago, Gary LT said:

    was the same steel and clay process as the other recent etched blade?

    Yes. Straight 1095 from Admiral Steel. I forgot to take a photo of the clayed blade. This is the second one I made as the first one blew itself apart in the quench and I was pressed for time making another one.

  5. Good stuff!

    My copper alloy casting attempts have all been on a relatively small scale, just plates and some fittings for knives and sheaths. I have a couple of plate molds, a small rod mold and three different sizes of sand casting frames. I doubt that I will ever try anything as large as a bronze dagger or a sword so kudos to those who try and a major wow to those who succeed. 

    @Jeroen Zuiderwijk is the resident expert on this and he has several threads of his bronze castings including swords, dirks, small knives, multiple tools, and I seem to remember a light saber at one point. Check his threads out for the ups and downs and solutions to problems he has encountered.

    • Like 1
  6. Over the weekend I did some finish sanding on the K-tip.After surfacing to get it straight,

     

    Finish Sanding (2).jpg

     

    the hamon started showing around 220 grit.

     

    220 Grit.jpg

     

    I took it up to 1000 grit and will probably get to etching it today.

     

    1000 Grit (2).jpg

    • Like 3
  7. 5 minutes ago, billyO said:

    Let me know if it's out of date info or still relevant(?

    Very relevant and supportive of m assesment.

    "In the eight-layer sample it is observed that the pearlite concentration has almost equalized, however ferrite still decorates the prior-austenitic grain boundaries in the 203E layer (Fig. 6). By the time the material has reached 16 layers, the carbon content of the sample appears to be uniform as shown by both layers consisting of nearly 100% pearlite"

     

    So they started with 4 layers and after the second fold, they had managed to even out the carbon content. I will face facts that this experiment was working at much higher heat (welding heat) than I suggested when I said to soak the initial bar above 1450F. My understanding is that carbon migration starts at or around critical temp and the process quickens with higher heat.

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  8. There is a good chance that the pallet straps have a coating that needs to be burnt off before you stack and weld them.

    Same goes for the bandsaw blades. I would throw all the cut pieces into the forge and bring them up to a red heat to burn off any coating.

    Then you can wire wheel them clean again to prep for welding.

  9. On 3/21/2024 at 9:34 PM, Jacob Boehme said:

    Unfortunately the blade is half the width of the straps I have, which means it would take a decent amount of work the get them to be even. Worth it for sure, but yeah the straps are awesome and I have an almost unlimited supply lol. 

    So lay the bandsaw strips two on a piece of pallet strap with the teeth on the outer edge and cover with another piece of pallet strap. If you are carefull, the straight edge of the bandsaw should keep tight to each other lessening, or even eliminating any chance of a weld void. after welding, grond the edges down.

    When I used bandsaw blades I ground the teeth off because the kerf creates a space between the bandsaw and the piece next to it. you need to remove the teeth to avoid that. 

    • Thanks 1
  10. 2 hours ago, Jim White said:

    So, I'll be looking to buy thicker stock for any future builds as opposed to more layers.

    You can just use multiple pieces of thin stock rather than buying thicker stock.

    So what does the final pattern look like? The pattern I see in the 4-way pic looks pretty dang good to me.

  11. Not sure why you started with a mosaic pattern for your first go, but hey go large or go home right?

    It looks like it should be a nice mosaic, but I don't really know where you are in the process. Your photos don't make much sense to me in the order you presented them. They almost look backwards in terms of progression.

    Most mosaics start with very thick layers in the initial billet, because the manipulation process results in multiple forging down and thinner layers in the end result.

    Mosaic patterns aren't typically considered in terms of layer count anyway. The layer count is mostly just applied to either flat or twisted patterns. If I were to place a layer count on an end grain pattern, such as a mosaic like yours or a standard W's pattern, it would only relate to the number of layers in a single tile. Billy has identified the way most people count layers. Your number in the 1000's is not an accurate way to count the layers. 

  12. 20 hours ago, Carlos Lara said:

    I agree, that hamon's amazing. Any tips for getting it so good?

    I fear there is more art than science to hamon production. I have been wrestling with it for years now and it was always hit and miss for a long time. 

    This is the best I have had so far in terms of activity. Here is my process after a few years of trying different things.

    I finish sanding to 220 grit before applying the clay. I use two different clays in my process now, satanite and something I mixed up with some red oxide cement color and some boric acid powder. I also harden on the low temp side around 1450F. Quench in Parks 50 oil with no interruption just straight in and bob it up & down.

    Hardness chisels after quench said the edge was harder than 64 HRC. Tempered back to 61 HRC.

    Here is the clay for this blade.

     

    Clayed 1.jpg

     

    Clayed 2.jpg

     

    Mare than that, I cannot say.

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1
  13. Finished this one and it's ready to ship out. I just need to take some good photos this weekend.

    8" by 2" clayed 1095 blade. Water buffalo horn bolster, stainless steel spacer and Buckeye burl handle with nickel-silver pin.

    This is the best Hamon I have ever gotten out of 1095 steel.

    As always, comments and criticism is welcome.

     

    Name side.jpg

     

    Off side.jpg

    • Like 7
  14. So there are two separate sheaths, both fleshy side out, and then a single piece wraps around both of them to create a single outer layer.

    Flesh side glued to flesh side. Brilliant.

    Can you tell a light bulb just turned on?

     

    Is there a suspension system or belt loop?

    • Like 1
×
×
  • Create New...