Joshua States

Seriously. This is the scrap I have left from that 6x12 inch sheet. How did they do it way back when?

I thought the graphics were great. Very helpful for visualization.

And lack of adequate materials......see previous post:

There is no stitching in the sheath. All the bronze pieces are folded around it and riveted to each side to sandwich the seam together. The leather straps are belt loops. I can post more pics later tonight when I get home. This post, and this one too, show the process for making these sheaths.

These are all very nice. Inspiring work. I especially like this one..

All the metal is bronze. The knife fittings are silicon bronze, the sheath has tin-bronze. Are you referring to the rivets that hold the bronze sheet on the sheath?

Oklahoma’s Largest Knife Show Hosted by the Oklahoma Knife Group on Saturday on Saturday February 25th at H&H Shooting Sports. Admission is FREE, and doors open at 10am.

The brazing rod I used for the rivets was really difficult to peen. I probably should have tried to anneal it before I started, but I didn't. So, I embraced the dents. I learned to love them and cherish them for as long as I live. I wanted to use materials that were probably used for Seax handles throughout the Vendel and Viking eras. Most of my research led me to believe that these were likely candidates.

The sheet thingies aren’t the problem. It’s making rivets that’s a problem. I have to admit. I borrowed the leather tooling idea from Petr F. He did something very similar engraved in the iron on one of his knives recently.

My squaring dies:

Another suggestion: build yourself a set of squaring dies for your press. This will help getting the bars square to start. I take my bars for this pattern down to either 3/4” or 5/8” before twisting. Then I put the 1/2” dies in and make two ends to fit in my impact wrench socket. Heat half the bar for twisting. The cold end gets locked in the press and the hot end goes in the impact wrench. I find this makes for more uniform twisting and less heat loss to the press dies

The handle doesn’t look overly large to me. What’s the oal?

I'm one of those lucky people who got today off, so I had the time to finish this project.I got the tooling a little off, but that's the way she goes sometimes.... I also fell slightly short of the dimensions when compared to the original. Stats: Blade length is 422 mm. OAL 460 mm. Blade width at base is 33 mm. Thickness at spine is 6 mm. Bronze fittings and the handle is walrus ivory and stabilized walnut burl. Gotlandic style sheath with bronze hardware. Sorry about the cheesy back drop, but it's been raining for two days straight and I don't know when I'll be able to get some good pics. For now, it's the cell phone and a terricloth. Here's the package. The handle The blade. Oh yeah. I decided to peen the top of the peen block and erase the visible pin.

Who is teaching it? I only ask because I know most of the smiths who teach in AZ.

Tooling done on one side.

Yes. Oak tanned shoulder. like 8/9 oz. Doubled over it's almost 3/8" thick.

Nice addition to the thread! Very nice pattern and a fine job on the finished knife too.

Welcome to the madness....definitely looks like a butcher's knife to me too. I think they also called them "breaking knives"?

I got the main bronze pieces worked out. I screwed up and only bought one piece of 6x12 bronze sheet and there are no more available at my typical suppliers. This is going to be tight. Templates Drilled and decorated I soldered the two top pieces together and dry-fit them to the sheath.

Oh yeah, there is always forging the fuller in and using any of the sanding/grinding gizmos to do clean up afterwards.

And I'm pretty sure it's from this thread. On page 2. For the record, these fullers were cut after HT. @Dave Stephens has a thread about a small wheel attachment he made for doing fullers here. @Florian F Fortner has a thread about the fuller scraping tool he made here. @Aiden CC has a WIP thread in last year's KITH about his fuller scraping tool here. And seeing as this is some sort of Tanto type blade, @Kevin Colwellhad a fuller scraping tool post way back in 2009. The description of how it was made is still there, but the photo is gone. There is more than one way to skin this possum.

I am a twist guy and don't do many straight flat laminate patterns. The twist is so versatile and combining twisted bars and continuing adding manipulations just makes the possibilities endless. @Caleb Budd If you are interested, there's a diagram of how I make the W pattern here, including a demonstration of the accordion cutting process.

Let me get this straight. It sounds like you took two bars of W's, twisted them in opposition and welded them together. Then you tried to ladder that resulting bar. Did I get that right? I don't know what you did to get either the W's or the ladder or the twist for that matter. It looks like you didn't take the W very far. I can see evidence of mild twists opposing each other, and some indication that the original billet was truncated a little trying to crush in a W. I don't see anything that says "laddered pattern" to me, but I don't know what it looked like before the ladder operation and I don't know what that operation was, to determine whether it would have done much to begin with. Whatever you did, it looks cool anyway. Maybe not as much punch as you expected, but sometimes bold, low-layer patterns don't have much pizzaz. When I do a W pattern, i always accordion cut the bar. The accordion cutting is really the same thing as a deep & wide ladder. Usually a laddered herringbone ends up looking like X's and O's. (I think) and I don't see that here.

Rock on!

Sweet.