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Joshua States

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Everything posted by Joshua States

  1. As marked, those are centimeters.
  2. That came out lovely. Nice execution. I particularly like the way you lined up the grain in the handle wood.
  3. @Mr. Oberu.....apologies are not necessary That is a very nice piece of walnut and the carving plan is going to look great too. Time for me to click the Follow button and watch this one through the process!
  4. I have been working on a commission that has so many things I've never done, it's been really pushing the envelope. Today I set about forging the guard (second time) out of 416 SS.
  5. A long time ago I also had several of these left over from work and I thought about using them in blades. I cut some strips from one and tried welding them into billet. After that experiment, I took one and made a round tool table out of it. Then my wife took the third one and put it into a piece of artwork. You may have better results than I did.
  6. OK. This is challenging now. How many welding heats and compressions did you do? I generally do 3 or 4 before attempting to peel the can off. Then again, I've never used G25 ball bearings, 1080 powder, or stainless cans. I've always used 1095, 15N20, and 201 nickel sheet, packed in a mild steel can. Ed Caffrey once told me that the 1080 series powders are much coarser than the 1095 powder and therefore are a little more difficult to weld and it produces a coarser "grain" in the finished product. The graininess of that bar looks like it didn't weld much at all. Are you sure your pyro is accurate? Not knowing off the top of my head what exactly G25 is, I googled it. G25 cast iron is an iron-carbon alloy with a carbon content that varies from 3.2% to 3.5%. In addition to carbon the alloy is also composed of silicon (1.9 to 2.1 %), manganese (0.65 to 0.8 %) and sulphur (up to 0.1 %). Carbon is in the form of flakes or scales. The characteristics of G25 cast iron depend on the dimensions and shape of the graphite flakes. The main properties of G25 cast iron include good tensile strength and hardness. It also has very good vibration damping and absorption properties thanks to the graphite flakes, stiffness and low friction coefficient. Now my guess is that's the culprit. How many of these are in the can compared to the 1080 powder?
  7. Salem Straub drill and taps on kitchen knives quite frequently. He also does a through tang of threaded rod with an end nut to hold the whole thing together.
  8. Now that we have that firmly established, we know what the parameters are You haven't told us what the parts in the drawing represent, but it looks like you plan for a 5-piece handle: bolster plate, three pieces of organic material, and an end cap. We also do not know what the intended length of the handle is or how it compares proportionally to the blade (the piece of paper in the photo covers the blade tip) I'm no expert, but here is what I can tell you based upon my limited research At 56+ cm blade length, this is definitely into the langsax typology. The metal parts on the handle while atypical, are not enough to make this non-historical construction. It's just a rarity rather than commonplace, and they were usually constructed as ferrules at the front, rather than plates. As Alan mentioned, there is a lot of info available in the History Forum. Specifically, two threads: Langsax Research, and Yet another freakin' seax topic. Sadly, most of the links to documents no longer work, and some of the photos have expired, but the posts still contain valuable info. If you would like to do some reading on the historical finds, send me a PM and I will dig through my electronic library and forward some stuff your way. If you are on FaceBook, there is a group called The Seax Files and they have a pretty extensive library of their own (some of the docs are languages other than English). In the meantime, please tell us a little more about the design ideas you have for this piece. It looks like a fine project.
  9. This is important. Do not overlook this idea.
  10. It only takes about 15 minutes to bend a piece of flat stock and a couple of hose clamps.
  11. Thanks Brian. I used to do it a bit back in my Design & Build contracting days. Still have the chops I guess. I never did learn how to use AutoCAD or Revit. Not for lack of trying, just didn't grok the functions and tools. Guys who can use CAD amaze me.
  12. I have hit a major speed bump. More like a roadblock actually. I cannot find anyone to put the frame up using the logs. So, we switched gears and went back to the idea of a stick-frame with log siding. I had to take a week off work so I could redraw the plans for a new permit. Had to break out the old drafting board and lean over the table for five days, but I got them done, scanned and submitted today.
  13. It's the airfare, the hotels, the everything. We debated going for a while but couldn't make it happen.
  14. I think I'd like to see a closer-up pic of that top one! The guard/spacer package looks intriguing.
  15. Those are really quite pretty Jake
  16. Do you happen to know what brand saw blade you use? I purchased one about a year or so ago, and it was very disappointing. I think I paid over $100 for that blade, and it made a couple of cuts through mild steel and quit.
  17. Nice pattern. Is that three bars of PW plus the edge bar?
  18. I hear your pain. I buy this size 1095 in 6-foot long lengths. I buy my 15N20 in 3 foot by 8 inch sheets. I cut the 15N20 into 1.5" strips with my plasma, cut the 1095 in half and make stacks 3 feet long by about 4 or 6 layers. These I clamp together and cut the whole stack into 5.75" pieces with a chop saw. If I need several pieces of mild in the sizes you mention. I just stack up 3 or 4 lengths in the chop saw and whack them off at once. A 14-inch chop saw blade lasts a lot longer than a whole pack of 4-1/2" cutting discs
  19. Thanks to whomever bumped this thread. I took a look and realized I never really finished it. There isn't much left to do but glue the handle together, make a pommel nut/finial and peen the pins down. The handle is totally shaped and finished to whatever grit you like. I generally go to at least 600 grit. If you are going to add file work to the frame, do it now before you glue it up. Add your glue to the epoxy grooves in the scales and the hole lines in the frame and put it together with your finished pins. Leave the pins long. Clamp it and let the glue cure completely. Assemble the knife and attach the pommel nut. Set it in your pin peening jig/tool thingy, cut the pins off, and use acetate and blue painter's tape to protect the handle scales during the pin peening. Once you finish peening and polishing the pins, this is done. Removing the pommel nut will allow you to take the handle off. The spacers and guard can be removed as well.
  20. Easy enough to punch, drift, and grind though?
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