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Joshua States

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Everything posted by Joshua States

  1. I think I'd like to see a closer-up pic of that top one! The guard/spacer package looks intriguing.
  2. Those are really quite pretty Jake
  3. Do you happen to know what brand saw blade you use? I purchased one about a year or so ago, and it was very disappointing. I think I paid over $100 for that blade, and it made a couple of cuts through mild steel and quit.
  4. Nice pattern. Is that three bars of PW plus the edge bar?
  5. I hear your pain. I buy this size 1095 in 6-foot long lengths. I buy my 15N20 in 3 foot by 8 inch sheets. I cut the 15N20 into 1.5" strips with my plasma, cut the 1095 in half and make stacks 3 feet long by about 4 or 6 layers. These I clamp together and cut the whole stack into 5.75" pieces with a chop saw. If I need several pieces of mild in the sizes you mention. I just stack up 3 or 4 lengths in the chop saw and whack them off at once. A 14-inch chop saw blade lasts a lot longer than a whole pack of 4-1/2" cutting discs
  6. Thanks to whomever bumped this thread. I took a look and realized I never really finished it. There isn't much left to do but glue the handle together, make a pommel nut/finial and peen the pins down. The handle is totally shaped and finished to whatever grit you like. I generally go to at least 600 grit. If you are going to add file work to the frame, do it now before you glue it up. Add your glue to the epoxy grooves in the scales and the hole lines in the frame and put it together with your finished pins. Leave the pins long. Clamp it and let the glue cure completely. Assemble the knife and attach the pommel nut. Set it in your pin peening jig/tool thingy, cut the pins off, and use acetate and blue painter's tape to protect the handle scales during the pin peening. Once you finish peening and polishing the pins, this is done. Removing the pommel nut will allow you to take the handle off. The spacers and guard can be removed as well.
  7. Easy enough to punch, drift, and grind though?
  8. Not my work, but a friend of mine was back in upstate NY recently and managed to purchase a few small axes from a shop there. I thought it might interest some folks. These are intended to be throwing competition axes.
  9. I haven't chimed in on this project, but I have been following along. Quite frankly, it has simply boggled my brain watching you work through the complexities of the materials and processes (and I get confused easily with all the Japanese terminology). You have been extraordinarily persistent in showing your ability to overcome. Control of the process is where mastery begins. Amazing work sir.
  10. This piece of steel looks extremely good at this point. Rock on! Yeah, that's a good point. You also need a way to move and store the equipment when it arrives.
  11. Always my tendency as well. Every time I see a plain surface, I think "oh look, another canvas"
  12. It's Rocking. You have definitely been expanding your repertoire as a maker of sharp and pointy objects.
  13. Nice to have you back Robert. Congrats on the impending matrimony. This is a very cool project.
  14. There are many topics on this and experiments in making the renowned pattern. Using the site search engine, I tried "Wolf's tooth". "Wolf Teeth" and a couple other variations. I chose find all my search terms, and content titles only. Many hits and threads with some very experienced makers. You are not the first to ask this esteemed collection of smiths for advice and guidance. So check out the threads in the search engine. This thread is particularly graphic.
  15. I want to see your Hamon - Show and Tell - Bladesmith's Forum Board (bladesmithsforum.com)
  16. Collect them all and join the madness of remelt? Bloomers and Buttons - Bladesmith's Forum Board (bladesmithsforum.com)
  17. That's an understatement..... Nice work. That looks mighty handy
  18. I have been helping a friend frame up a new storage building. I refused to take any money, so he gave me this.
  19. There are a couple of Russian guys on IG doing their own dying and stabilization of figured wood and burls. Mostly Linden, Maple, Birch, and some other stuff. I purchased three blocks from one of them a while back. It took a month for them to arrive by post, but the stabilization was perfect. Александр Осипов (@aleksbekwood) • Instagram photos and videos I haven't purchased from the other guy yet Алексей Осипов (@alur.pnz) • Instagram photos and videos
  20. Today I took a piece of 1095 flat bar, 19" long, 1.5" wide, and .25" thick. I forged 3 kitchen knives. Rough ground them to 220 grit (after dismantling part of my surface grinder and fixing it) and clayed them for hamon. Then I quenched them and cleaned them off. Edge is over 64 HRC according to my testing chisels. They are in the temper now. Awesome! Can't wait to see the finished product.
  21. I would bet that it was dipped in rendered fat, like whale or walrus oil
  22. Seriousness. It's burl wood judging by the grain in the photo. I wonder how much use it got before being dropped in the snowbank. Then you have to figure that several years went by with it out in the elements, going through freeze-thaw cycles, before it finally was encased in ice. Yet the handle didn't split apart and disintegrate. What were these guys using for a finish? I want some of that!
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