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Joshua States

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Everything posted by Joshua States

  1. Dan, Electro-etching is probably your best bet for logo application in multiple metal typess. I got my etching machine here: http://www.etch-o-matic.com/index.html They also sell what you need to make stencils for your logo (providing you have a printer and transparency film) but the stencils are not the best in the world. The etch tends to leak a bit around the edges. So I get my logo stencils from Marking Methods. www.markingmethods.com/store/pc/home.asp Just remember, there are different etching solutions for different metals.
  2. Hey Jim, please define "disc sander" and "chop saw" for me.
  3. I didn't make it a full 60 seconds before I stopped watching. What I found particularly disturbing, was how much he looked like David Lisch........
  4. I am loving that Dirk Matthew. Please post some pictures of it when it's completed. Not that I don't like the hunter too, but that Dirk is not something you see every day. My bucket list is getting longer the more I hang out on this bloody forum......
  5. Not entirely. If you used thinner pieces of steel for the jacket, by the time you ground the bevels in, most of the jacket would be removed, leaving the center billet showing. All that would be left of the jacket is the upper 3rd of the blade which is where the cracks are. Now the cracks are covered and sealed inside a welded jacket.
  6. If you have a propane forge, that's when the pipe or square tube method makes the most sense. The tube heats up and provides an "oven" like condition inside the forge, and a much more even heat along the blade. I posted some pics of the set up I used to use before I got the Paragon. You can find them here: http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=33165&page=2
  7. Hey Gerald, those bracelets are pretty cool. Do you make them out of other metals too?
  8. All too true. The evolution of fighting styles is matched by the evolution of arms. As larger/heavier weapons and armor were replaced by smaller/lighter and faster ones, the requirements changed. I always fancied the rapier/main gauche form. It just seemed so elegant when compared to the broadsword and shield. Not that I'd want to have a rapier when facing some big dude with a broadsword or battle axe dressed in plate, but that's why "he who turns and runs away, lives to fight another day" was coined...... Anyway, Renzo has provided the time frame, (late 14th, early 15th centuries) when this was the state of the art of war. Very nice to have the historical reference, I learned something from this already!
  9. I think there will always be subtle vestiges of our mentors and other makers in our art, regardless of what that art may be. Some folks are better at seeing those things than others. Undoubtedly, Alan's experience looking for historical links in objects (you are an Archeologist aren't you?) gives him the super power of being more sensitive to those things.
  10. Andrew, If I'm not mistaken, that is the Wuertz Machine Works TW-90 belt grinder, and the bars come that way. http://www.traviswuertz.com/?product=tw-90-knife-grinder That's a nice idea Bill. I did something similar with my KMG. I also remove the platen and use the slack belt from time to time so I took a method for fast platen reinstallation from MS Steve Culver. I glued two small pieces of angle iron (JB Weld) in place to act as stops for the platen mounting bars. (Steve actually tapped and bolted his in place) The upper bolt is moved away from the stop for clarity. If I remove the platen for slack belt work, I can just slide it back it up against the stops and be right where I want.
  11. One way I have found to limit the undesirable aspects of custom orders is to maintain artistic control. Do not let the customer specify everything about the knife. If they want to get that specific, tell them it is not for you. Start with a rough idea (size, blade type/grind, handle materials, and price point) and leave the rest to you and your designs. I figure if someone is asking me to make a knife for them, they must like what I do. So if they want something other than what I want to do, they can ask somebody else to make it.
  12. Somebody slap him. Austin, that is a classic design, executed well. There's nothing I can see that says "this sucks" and the sheath looks fantastic.
  13. That video blew my socks off! Did you see that grinding stone?
  14. Maple takes a dye or stain really well.
  15. Yeah, we have all been there too. None of us would ever get any better without putting our work out there and asking for critique from those who are obviously better. Bring it on Mikkel, there are no feeble attempts in this art. Everything takes work and sacrifice. We all know that too well. Enjoy the journey. The more I learn the more I realize how little I know....... Seeing pieces like this Fenris Seax from J.D. just makes me want to try making this type of knife, even though I realize I'll get nowhere near this one.
  16. FWIW, I like the long ricasso. I think it fits with the long slender knife stylistically.
  17. Laminating billets doesn't necessarily need you to smash it to weld. It just needs a solid hit repeatedly and straight on so the layers do not slide against one another. This is where welding the ends or tying the billet with wire helps keep everything in line. When I weld in my press, I get very little compression across a 6 inch long and 2 inch wide stack. It's not the compression depth that controls a good weld, it's the uniform pressure across the face. Don't worry about the wire welding to the billet either. I have used rebar tie wire and it usually pealed right out of the grooves it made in the stack. When it didn't, a little grinding removed what was left. If I read Cashen correctly, you can forge that billet back into usable stock, it just won't look great under a microscope, which none of us is going to do. I don't know how it will respond to a quench, but it shouldn't crumble. The crumbling happens during the over heating when the steel is so hot it starts to come apart. If you plan on using that billet as a jacket, just make sure the mating surfaces are very clean and smooth. You don't want any voids to trap air or flux and cause a delamination.
  18. Maybe the sheath is one of those "behind the back jobs....."
  19. Everything that could be said about the knife has already been said. The sheath is simple, and the carving is subtle, yet elegant. That's a very nice package Tim.
  20. Nice! Thanks for the arrow.......
  21. Another thing to put on my bucket list........
  22. Peened and blued the pins today. Then I put an edge on that sucker. It's done.
  23. That's a pretty serious quench tank Brian! Today I was going to work on part 2 of my WIP video series, but my wife took over the shop and was a forging maniac! She has the power hammer and the press going and with all that racket, the only thing left to do was finish up the pins in my KITH knife (Final pics in KITH 2016) and start the finish sanding on two other knives I'm working on. Then I blew the plunge cuts on one and accidentally gouged a bit out of the ricasso in the second one. Two more pieces of scrap O-1 for the bucket. By then Liz was done in the forge are, so I forged out another two knives.
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