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Joshua States

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Everything posted by Joshua States

  1. Today I took a piece of 1095 flat bar, 19" long, 1.5" wide, and .25" thick. I forged 3 kitchen knives. Rough ground them to 220 grit (after dismantling part of my surface grinder and fixing it) and clayed them for hamon. Then I quenched them and cleaned them off. Edge is over 64 HRC according to my testing chisels. They are in the temper now. Awesome! Can't wait to see the finished product.
  2. I would bet that it was dipped in rendered fat, like whale or walrus oil
  3. Seriousness. It's burl wood judging by the grain in the photo. I wonder how much use it got before being dropped in the snowbank. Then you have to figure that several years went by with it out in the elements, going through freeze-thaw cycles, before it finally was encased in ice. Yet the handle didn't split apart and disintegrate. What were these guys using for a finish? I want some of that!
  4. Another knife found, with no dated age yet. Iron Knife A large iron knife with a grip consisting of rings in copper alloy and antler/bone. It is probably from the Medieval period. The iron knife as it was found lying between the rocks. The find spot has probably only seen intermittent snow and ice cover, so part of the grip has rotted away. The knife is c. 29 cm long, A close-up of the grip showing the various rings of copper alloy and antler/bone. There was probably wood between the rings, but that has rotted away due to exposure.
  5. I recently found this FB page called Secrets of the Ice. It's a page devoted to the archeology work around the receding glaciers in the arctic circle. They have found several weapons, trail marking cairns, and other artefacts. You can read some of the story here. First up, a couple of iron arrow heads and the text from the FB page Arrow Head 1 Special iron arrowhead of a rare type. The arrow shaft is also preserved (right). First find of this type of arrowhead at the ice. The type is only known from a single grave find from our county. The grave find dates to c. AD 550-600. Arrow Head 2 Iron arrowhead with the broken remains of the wooden shaft. The arrowhead has a flat tang and a long blade. The type is well known from Iron Age burials in the lowlands and dates to AD 300-600. A very well-preserved knife was also found. Trollstein Knife A long time ago, a hunter butchered a reindeer at our Trollstein site. When the job was done, the knife was left behind for some reason. Was it lost in the snow? Many centuries later, we found it close to the retreating ice. A sorry loss for the hunter but a great gift to archaeology! A radiocarbon date from the birch handle places the knife in the 5th or 6th century AD. Would you believe it – it is 1500 years old! (5/10)
  6. IMNSHO, the concern for adding something other than the epoxy is much ado over nothing. I think that most problems with epoxies come from improper mixing and poor surface preparation. If the directions say to mix for 60 seconds, don't stir it up and call it good. Mix it for the 60 seconds. Prep the surfaces correctly and most importantly, leave a small amount on the bench to check and make sure the glue has set in the directions listed set up time. If you come back and the stuff on the bench is still runny, you screwed something up and you need to take it apart, clean the pieces and do it again. This blade (and two others almost exactly like it) measures 10 inches long, 1.75 inches wide, with a 4.75 inch long handle. It survived the ABS JS performance test (as did the other two) with nothing other than a stick tang stuck in a piece of ash with West Systems epoxy. This knife has been my personal carry for 16 years at work, camping, hunting, you name it, and I have taken this knife into the field and done what needed to be done. Same handle design, except the wood is cocobolo, a notoriously waxy wood that some folks say is tough to glue and the epoxy is generic 30-minute stuff purchased at the local hardware store. The blade is 4.5inches long by 1.25 inches wide. So, it seems that the presence of a pin, or other mechanical fastener is not really necessary. Especially when you consider that this knife is several hundred years old and the handle is probably stuck on with a mixture of pine tar, beeswax, and sand.
  7. The water is.....well, it's still wet. There are a lot of newer smiths here than were around when you frequented the boards. I'm still here (FWIW) and there are some newer members here that are very talented smiths. That FB post you referred to sparked a new interest in one of your classic posts on these here forums. Glad to hear you are doing well, and very good to know that your beard is still burning!
  8. What Alan said. Stick with the 10XX series of steels, excepting maybe 1095 because it can be a little finicky. Another option is to invest in a decent silver or brass brazing torch. Learning how to braze a softer metal onto the tang so you can add a pommel cap with a peened block or tang will allow you to do this and up your game in the handle making arena.
  9. Mr. Price! long time no see on these forum boards. Good to see you are still creating marvelous works.
  10. There are a lot of pinned topics in the Beginner's Place forum boards. They are pinned for good reason. Reading them, and following the guidance provided, will lessen the learning curve considerably.
  11. You took the billet up to too many layers before turning 90 degrees (called forging on the bias) and stacking. You need to forge on the bias after the initial billet is welded together. Then forge it out flat, cut and stack, lather, rinse, repeat as desired until the end grain looks more like this. The W's pattern is an end-grain pattern. In order to see the W's, you need to transfer the end grain out to the face. If you forge what you have out flat, you will distort the pattern and stretch it out. It will still look pretty good, but it's probably going to end up looking more like random Damascus than anything else.
  12. Still looks pretty good. Are you going to try and make that stack into a single bar now?
  13. Taking care of your knife also plays into it. Most people never give a second thought to oiling or waxing a natural wood handle every couple of years and it shows.
  14. That is possibly true. How did you get to this point?
  15. I don't see any flaws per se, but I don't see the W's either. It's a very nice and tight high layer pattern though. The end grain looks more like you twisted it somewhere along the process. What's the plan from here? How many of those little cubes have you got?
  16. My wife was making jewelry for a while, and she acquired a bunch of tools over time. A circle/disc cutting/punching tool and a dapping block set were probably the most expensive (other than the rolling mill) and most used "equipment" type of tools. A couple of good small torches and a soldering stand also became necessary. She has all sorts of bending pliers and the like. Jewelry making comes in all sorts of different methods or disciplines. It looks like you are heading into the constructed jewelry art form, where various small pieces-parts are first made and then assembled into a finished product. Liz learned pretty quickly that making jump rings was way more work and time than just buying them pre-made. The same applied to earring hooks. Her torches and soldering setup
  17. This. Skiving it thin and ragged edged to hide the seam
  18. These guys sell some really nice stuff Frogjelly Leather - Leather and Leathercraft Supplies
  19. I reduce the size of my photos to <200KB. Does that help?
  20. That looks wonderful. Really nice random PW there.
  21. I take it you don't have MIG welder either? If you do, or at least have access to one, cut the tang short with an angle grinder and MIG weld a piece of mild steel to peen the end. My best advice is simple, Finish this blade with a typical hidden tang handle and ........ Make another knife into a Puukko using a more forgiving steel
  22. Nice designs. A few years ago, I did a demo of putting handles on BBQ and fireplace tools. I did a hidden tang on the BBQ set and frame handles on the fireplace set. Your ideas give another potential add-on to an otherwise plain tool. I like it a lot.
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