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Joshua States

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Everything posted by Joshua States

  1. 360 might be a little hot for the type of steel you have there (judging by Alan's assessment, and I'm not going to argue with him about it, that would be foolish!), but it will certainly allow for sharpening a wicked edge. It just won't hold that edge for a long time. Let me explain a bit. Tool steels have enough carbon content (and possibly other metals) to allow the steel to become "hardened" after bringing up to critical temperature and then rapidly cooling. This is the first half of what we commonly call "heat treatment" (HT), or "hardening" the blade/tool/whatever. The second half of HT is called "tempering" or "drawback", and is where we heat the blade to a much lower temperature to soften the hardened tool to a usable level. Ideally, we want it soft enough to not break or chip, but not so soft as to loose it's shape under pressure or in the case of a knife, loose the sharpness of the edge from use. Hardness is measured in a variety of ways and scales, the most common (I think) is the Rockwell scale . Different steels have different tempering heat ranges to achieve specific Rockwell hardness levels (specified as RC followed by a number). Carbon level controls the hardening ability of most steels and is measured in "points" of carbon (100 points=1%). So the steel you have there (again judging by Alan's assessment) is a fairly low to medium carbon content "simple" tool steel (i.e. it is pretty much iron and carbon with maybe some trace elements in alloy). The medium/low simple tool steels get soft pretty quickly and would typically be tempered at around 220-250 degrees for two hours to achieve a RC level around 57-59. 360 is enough to push it past the desired level into soft range again. (someone correct me if I got that wrong, I tend to forget this minutia and don't have my reference notes handy) A simple test for whether the edge is too soft or not is to take a 1/4 inch round rod and lay it down on the bench. Lay the blade on its side with the edge across the bar and push downward flexing the blade edge around the bar. When you let up, the edge should return to straight. If not, the blade is too soft. If it chips during this test, the blade is too hard.
  2. Very nice Alan. Where did you get those ear hooks/wires? My wife makes jewelry and is always complaining about the crappy quality of prefab wires and how much of a pain it is to make her own. Those look like they have a locking mechanism.
  3. Great Begorrah laddie, that's a fine bit o' work there. (the brogue just doesn't come through in writing, sorry)
  4. Interesting video. Is it my imagination, or does the narrator continually substitute an "L" for the "R" in almost all words? Silvel-smith, Knife makels, Malket for Bowie knives, Bettel almed almy, etc. Very strange accent.
  5. The bladesmith's version of the Hippocratic staff! I love it. Great looking knife and stand too.
  6. Agreed, in general. The Steve Culver Bowie knife Austin posted a picture of has a false edge, rather than a clipped point, and I have made Bowie knives with either, or neither one. However, I think that either one should be present in the KITH knife as it is a design element intended to push the participating smiths to a common technical aspect. The size/depth/shape/grind of the clip or false edge is entirely up to the smith. The variations and permutations possible are virtually endless. There may be some smiths participating that have never made a clipped point or false edged blade and others that have never made one with a hollow grind. This is an opportunity for each of us to try something new with a specific design element. But what do I know?
  7. Well, it looks like you've made yourself a knife......and a forge, and some tongs. I'd say you have a great start there. Only a couple of things I could tell/ask you at this point, most high points were already addressed by Aiden. 1. 10-15 pounds is pretty high and you will run that little bottle dry quickly. See if you can run it lower to conserve fuel or add another burner. 2. Quench hardening is only the first half of heat treatment. This is followed by a tempering stage, where the blade is heated to specific temps for roughly two hours to "draw back" the hardness from quench hard to a usable hardness. A quench hard blade will likely be brittle, and that's if you used a tool steel to begin with. (What steel did you use anyway?) Tempering data can be found for specific steels from a variety of vendors and steel info websites. 3. Do you truly like that rough forged look, or did you just get tired of trying to grind it out? 4. Many stores sell Canola oil and although I don't have any personal experience using it as a quenching medium, I have heard many smiths claim it works well for simpler steels and is far less expensive than industrial quenching oils. 5. You have a decent setup (you do not need a huge anvil) to get started in this bizarre craft. I hope you continue with it and keep the project pics coming.
  8. A couple of really great blades there. Salem and SBranson have achieved what I am looking to get to. Thanks guys!
  9. In the art league/art show world, the distinction is very clearly made, most notably with respect to jewelry. Typically, the hand crafted artists are referred to as "constructed" jewelers or jewelry makers rather than hand-made jewelers. "Constructed" seems to be a euphemism for hand crafted art as opposed to hand-made art.
  10. If you notice, I also replaced the top 2 inch guide wheel with a 2 inch small grinding wheel. Very useful to have at hand........
  11. Anything I would have said, has already been said, including that's pretty fine work for "6 months into the craft" !!! My rule of thumb on handle length is 3.75 - 4.25 inches from front of the index finger to inside of the bird's head with 1/2 inch to 1 inch sticking past the pinkie.
  12. The only modifications to Austin's rule list I would suggest would be as follows: 4. The blade (from guard to point) should be at least 8" inches (203.2mm). 6: It must have a double branch guard. Reasoning: Typically, blade length includes the ricasso area (that's my understanding) and "cross guards" are typically symmetrical (also my understanding). So, I'd like to have more design options available that include asymmetrical guards, but I agree the HITH knife should have a guard that extends above the spine and below the belly. Personally, I do not think a "Bowie" has a double branch guard as a required design element, but I think it's a good requirement for the KITH.
  13. Good tips Alan. I usually declare knives as either "cutlery" or "tableware"......
  14. Anyone planning on going to the ABANA conference in SLC this summer? https://www.abana.org/Conferences/2016/index.html
  15. Not sure if anyone here keeps the old ways, but I may not be on line tomorrow and I wanted to wish everyone a happy and healthy solstice. The long night approaches and the new year begins. May your new year be filled with love, beauty, and adventurous wonder! Thank you all for everything you do here. Josh
  16. Thanks Salem! I always wondered why sometimes belts would appear to suddenly start to wobble ..... Austin, here is a pic of the stops I put on to keep the platen always square with the rest. You just have to remember NEVER to use the integral angle adjustment. (I moved the platen so you could see the top one clearly) I know that Rob put a lot of thought into designing that feature so you could easily adjust the angle of the platen to the rest and grind bevels on stock, but I just made an adjustable tool rest. Come to think of it, I made a lot of tool rests for this grinder........
  17. I did the same as far as lifetime guarantee. I got mono-vision 5 or 6 years ago. One eye is focused for reading the other for distance. The only regret I have is not doing it sooner!
  18. Looking good Lukas. Hopefully you will show setting the guard, and some of the handle fabrication.
  19. OK. So my guess is the whole thing was finish sanded with sacrificial pins. Once everything was done the knife was disassembled and the bolsters were blued, peened in place, and the pins had the bluing touched up after the fact. The scale pins were done by applying a resist to the wood (like nail polish) around the base of the pins, the handle glued up, and after all was set and cured, the pins were filed down to the resist and the tops blued. Then the resist was removed with acetone. How close am I?
  20. Answer me one question.......cold blue or hot blue?
  21. For international shipments, I would suggest either UPS or FEDEX. They have small local stores where you can go and have the employees make sure all of the paperwork is filled out correctly, heck they will even package it up for you (which is required if you want the damage protection, but not required for lost or destroyed protection). I don't know if ISIS has anything to do with it, but international shipments have always had their share of hoops and ladders. Someone (usually the shipper) has to pay duty fees and customs costs.
  22. Is someone going to post the final set of guidelines regarding this one?
  23. You said "picking the brains at the local hardware store". That's the unripe fruit. I don't seem to have the quality you have at your local store! Your idea is a good one. Also, I thought about what good blade steels you can get at the local store. I remembered that the local hardware store/tool rental place has old worn out jack hammer bits for sale. I bought some a long time ago to make fullers and stuff out of. Heat treated it as for O-1. Tough stuff.
  24. Hmmm.....picking unripe fruit. Not my favorite pastime. So, this is a concept endeavor. OK, I'm in.
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