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Joshua States

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Everything posted by Joshua States

  1. I go back and forth between Cubitron, Firestorm, and Norton Blaze. I haven't noticed a significant longevity of any one of them over another, but tend to use the Firestorm for roughing (36 or 60) and the other two for 120/220 grits. It really depends on which supplier has the 220 grit ceramic belts in stock when I need to buy belts! Then again, I only use the ceramics on steel and AO on everything else. So I'm buying two kinds of belt in each grit of 60, 120, 220.
  2. Congratulations on a successful billet of Mokume. In some aspects, the patterning you choose will depend on what the end purpose is for this material. Traditional Mokume patterning starts at the point you are at now, when the initial billet has already been reduced by half. Also traditional practice is to only pattern one side of the billet and leave the other side alone. I'm not telling you to follow this practice, only that this is the traditional method. These methods were developed for fairly thin end products like jewelry, or the outside lining of a silver vessel. Thicker end produc
  3. Sounds to me like you are into the narrow langsax territory!
  4. This is going to be fantastic. I'm not the Seax expert guy. but in general, I like to twist bars that are more around 3/8" to 1/2 inch. You will lose some cross section when you square up the twisted bar, and then there's the forging loss and grinding loss to acount for. As far as the dimensions go, I would refer you to one of the more definitive experts on this style, time period, and details. Luckily for you, it's also a current thred on this forum. Nijmegen narrow seax - Show and Tell - Bladesmith's Forum Board (bladesmithsforum.com)
  5. What Alan said! Rock and roll man! This is epic already.
  6. I've been obsessing about this for a week now. It's been something I think about as I'm trying to go to sleep. Finally, the light bulb inside my tiny brain turned on. I marked this with a fine point Sharpie today.
  7. I peeled the forms off those burners, made a satanite flare for the sword forge burner, and cut a small propane bottle down for a crucible forge.
  8. I decided it was time to cast a new ribbon burner for the forge. While I was at it, I decided to make a couple of smaller ribbons for some other forges in the works.
  9. These are all glued up and ready to sharpen. Three leather working knives And three wood carving chisels I rather like these, so I will throw one set of three into the KITH. Whomever draws my project picks which set they want.
  10. Absolutely looking good.
  11. It's difficult to see in the photo, but I think I got the layout right this time
  12. You are in unknown territory. Make a map and bring it back so we can follow it someday!
  13. You really do need to develop a maker's mark. It's well past time
  14. So after a couple of ferric etches, and stenciling my marks, I did my bluing and here the blades are. The little finger saddle has a nice ladder pattern Now to glue them up and sharpen them.
  15. I come back to this thread and just gaze in awe at some of these specimens. Another thing I need to try. Damn you Daniel Cauble!
  16. Good stuff here Bill. This is a great project.
  17. Thanks jake. A sanding we will go, a sanding we will go! On another note, how common are fulers on these blades?
  18. Well, Even though this handle will probably not be the finished one, I think I will keep carving it, just for the practice. I started roughing it out the other day and have gotten this far along. I still need to get in there with a needle file and smooth some surfaces.
  19. Onward we go....... After taking the surfaces to 220 grit. Then it was time to make the handles. I took some quilted maple and turned them out on the lathe. Then I ground the tangs down to fit inside the 3/16" holes. The finish on the tools is 400 grit in preparation for etching. The handle finish is also 400 grit with some light Pecan stain and Danish oil
  20. That's a unique handle design. Was there a particular inspiration for that? I ran into this problem early on using stencils for my maker's mark. I developed this technique. Put blue painter's tape on 3 sides of the stencil and etch. When you want to check the etch, peel back the two sides, leaving the strip across the bottom in place. You can now clean and check the etch. If it needs more, the bottom strip is holding the stencil exactly where it needs to be to reallign with the original etch. Just tape it back down and go again.
  21. I'm also with Geoff and Alan on this. If you want to reach out to Don, his contact info is listed on the ABS website under Master Smiths. https://www.americanbladesmith.org/membership-account/profile/?pu=don-fogg
  22. I like that. The different finishes on diferent facets/planes always gives the knife more visual appeal.
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