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Joshua States

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Everything posted by Joshua States

  1. Wrong? Not so much. Odd? Well, yes. (forgive me if this seems harsh. It is not intended to belittle your work in any way, but you asked) This knife looks like it was "organically produced". What I mean by that, is it looks like there was no plan beforehand and no goal other than to "make a knife". Don't get me wrong, there's nothing "wrong" with that, it just winds up looking odd to me. The blade is very curvy with that long dropped point, the arced choil, and the constantly upward travelling edge. The handle is mostly complimentary to that curvy nature, with that oval guard and that deep back-half curved finger divot. Then there's a big flat spot on the belly of the handle and this big point at the heel with a very sharp angle. Huh? Where did that come from? The guard is way too wide for that sexy blade shape and looks like a blob to me. This knife looks like it just "happened" as the maker worked. Suddenly a thought occurred to him that this would be a good feature to install and then he picked up some materials and did it. The copper (?) pin seems out of place as it doesn't match the guard. I'm pretty picky too, I know, but unmatched hardware bugs me. Especially when there's only two pieces in the whole knife. On the bright side, the blade finish looks clean. I also really like the matching of lines across the guard. ( the spine of the blade with the spine of the handle and the bottom of the ricasso with the bottom of the handle. Those things really stand out as good work and a detailed focus. I think that's the spot Zeb is referring to, although the junction of the wrought and the wood looks a little dubious in the photos as well. A thin spacer in this location might help. If it was copper sheet, the pin would have made more sense too.
  2. Leathercraft is very cool. That's a nice looking wallet. What are you using to sew? Do you get the pieces precut or are you doing all that by hand?
  3. I use the Etchomatic and buy my stencils from Marking Methods.
  4. www.artsfactory.com www.claudiobottero.com www.denismura.com (also on Facebook) Look for Milko DiPaco on Pinterest and Facebook.
  5. I'd venture to say it looks better than it did 2-1/2 years ago too!
  6. This is almost entirely done. There are a couple of things that are wrong with it, and it may end up as my personal folder, rather than ever leave the shop. The left side pin is visible and I could diddle with it a bit more and make it go away. The file work is not my best. There are still some scratches in the bolsters that need some attention. The front pin is not centered. Well here it is so far.
  7. I was thinking the same thing. Thanks for the info. BTW- Those fittings are aces.
  8. Dragons breath forge has an Etsy store. He sells hardness chisels. Not as precise as a real tester, but it will tell you within a point or two.. still over $100. Good tools cost money
  9. They looked a little thick in the photos, but I really couldn't tell. I have made a bunch of full tang with bolster knives. With a Damascus blade, it's a little tricky keeping the pattern showing along the spine and belly of the handle. I don't know if it will help or not, but I did a WIP on this style of knife, although it's with dovetailed bolsters. (you can easily skip that step) It's down in the Pinned Show & Tell subforum. It's called A Pair of Commissions.
  10. You could try this. It won't get any worse, but you will need a disc sander with a rubber padded disc or a platen pad on your 2x72. Clean the area with spray acetone (carburetor cleaner). Then prop the knife up on an anvil so that the bottom side pin is flat on the anvil surface. Take a nail set or center puch and carefull tap the center of the pin. This will leave a dimple and spread the pin out to fill in the hole a little better. Then running the sander at about 50% speed with a 600 grit abrasive, regrind that surface down until the pin disappears. In the future, use much smaller diameter pins. I never peen a bolster on with anything larger than 3/32" pins. Usually, I use 1/16" pins.
  11. Your works always astounds me Richard.
  12. Evil I'm telling you. These things are evil little buggers.
  13. This has been discussed before. Initial cutting of the tank should be done with a tool that does not produce high sparking, like a saw. I know it's a lot more work, but at least you will remain in one piece, and not rest in pieces.
  14. Maybe you could temper it really soft?
  15. Nice job Allen. As my old framing boss would say "Not bad for your first try" (it's a lot funnier in his heavy French accent) The only reason I can find for the stop on a square-back tang, is it keeps the blade off your fingers when you accidently put too much back pressure on the spine. You are probably right about that pin, especially with bone scales. Scales that have more flex and give can start to delam in the rudest of places. Way to go. Welcome to the madness, again.
  16. Oh. BTW- Those three knives in the middle look a lot like Lin Rhea's X-Rhea knives. These sell really well for him (then again, he IS Lin RHea!)
  17. There are two schools of thought in the knife making world. Production work: Making something simple and utilitarian, that almost everyone would buy and use, at a price point that almost everyone can afford. Make them fast and sell a bunch of them. There are a lot of makers that do this and make a good living at it. Early work by D'Alton Holder comes to mind. Custom Work: Generally higher end one of a kind things that people are scared to use because they don't want to damage/devalue it. Takes a ton of time to produce and you make only a few in a year. Smaller market as the price point is much higher than production knives. Before you pick a path, it is best to know what type of buyer is available to you and where you have to go to put your work in front of them. I cannot help but think that your circumstances would lend themselves to a mixture of the two. Develop a couple of models that you can reproduce quickly and efficiently (even if they are done stock removal for the most part). Small utility EDC type blades, hunter/skinner, etc. You could probably buy a couple of rolls of paracord for the handle and not have much invested in materials or time. Knock them out and sell them to buyers or see if a local outfitter will buy a few and put them on the shelf. Then you take one or two custom projects in a year that you want to make. These are your "progress" knives. These are the ones that you take chances on, push your skills to the next level, and sell at the higher price point to anyone who can afford it.
  18. Without the other dimensions (width, thickness), it's difficult to say. Without having to get into specialized geometries and shapes, what about a simple arming or side sword? That would present the challenges of double edge, quillon guard, and balance. You could also try a single edged blade like a langsax. That would present a few challenges as well, but eliminate the whole double edge and double branch guard.
  19. It's only a flesh wound.....Actually, I slipped at the disc sander and put a nasty gouge in the blade. It's OK now after several hours of hand surfacing on the granite slab..... I could still make another small fixed blade. The Damascus one is off the table per the boss. I just got another commission this week for a Damascus blade. Maybe I'll have a small piece left over Then again, I also got two knife repair jobs and I have to start building my place in New Mexico. Not enough time in the day.
  20. These are most impressive for you initial couple of knives. I do have one suggestion to make regarding pin placement. (I know, I'm a nit-noid about pins) IMNSHO: The rear pin is too close to the edge and the center pins need to be aligned with the point in the belly of the handle. One more suggestion is to move the nail nick closer to the point to provide more leverage when opening the blade.
  21. The heat is on. The gauntlet has fallen. Is our plucky hero going to pick it up?
  22. Slip joint folders are evil little things.
  23. Don't scrub the patina off either. Let the staining and gray color stay. Never put it in a dishwasher. Always wash by hand and immediately dry and put in a block or stand, not in a drawer.
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