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Joshua States

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Everything posted by Joshua States

  1. And then you can take all those pieces of s$&@ and try forge welding them into a single piece of s$&@
  2. To put the cross in the handle, either inlay a bit of metal or carve it into the micarta and fill with a colored epoxy. Sand flush. To put the cross into the blade, cut the cross out of anything that is a peel & stick sheet. Stick it onto the blade. Now paint the entire blade with a resist (nail polish works really well). Peel the sticker off and etch in acid. Clean the resist off (acetone) and presto! An etched cross in the steel.
  3. You have an Evenheat oven for crying out loud! Why would you still HT using this method? Why not heat the body up in the forge to MS temp, quench the body deep enough to get the entire bit and temper in an oven? Maybe because they don't have an oven on the Prairie? I'm seriously asking because you have me all confused.
  4. Just my opinion here. Forget the bevel jig. Build yourself a center line scribe and mark the centerline of the edge. Make sure you have two lines running down the edge with about the thickness of a dime between them. For a full flat grind, grind the bevel to the line on each side and keep about 1/4" away from the edge of the spine. Go to HT. Straighten, re-scribe the center lines and repeat the grinding process pushing the bevel down to desired edge thickness and just about 1/16' to 1/8" away from the edge of the spine. Finish as desired.
  5. Hi Allen and welcome to the madness. Have you looked locally for a blacksmith association? You can find the nearest one that is an ABANA affiliate through the ABANA website: https://abana.org/affiliates/affiliate-map-list/#!directory/map
  6. I get the not forging stainless, and I totally agree. I do some purely stock removal of stainless myself. I was recommending you slow down your process, not slow down the grinder. Let me explain. A lot of knife making is like learning to play a musical instrument or learning how to rock climb. There is an intellectual knowledge and a body knowledge. The brain understands the concepts long before the body learns how to execute the moves. Slowing down the process allows the body to learn faster. Does that make sense? As for finishing the handle off the knife, I do that a lot, but not with full tang blades, unless the blade is Damascus. It's far easier for me to finish a full tang handle after everything is glued and cured. I have a photo WIP thread where I show how I do it, maybe you will like the method. I also have a couple of grinding/finishing videos on my YouTube channel (link below) that you might find useful.
  7. Patience laddie. It's just like learning to play guitar. Slow now, fast later.
  8. So just change the name of the thread "The making of Bubba the Elf's side sword"
  9. You and I are in very different worlds (?) markets (?) when it comes to knife making, but I will try and answer your question as best as I am able. I think the best advice I can give you on avoiding all the errors you have noticed, is to slow down your process. A lot. When it comes to blade finishing, especially when you do it by hand, slow and deliberate is how things get done well. I see your hand technique looks like a piece of sandpaper wrapped around a scrap of 2x4 and pretty wildly rubbing the surface until it "looks good enough". Maybe that sounds harsh, but it isn't meant to be. There are a couple of hand finishing videos on the forum and quite a few online that will show you how to get a really nice satin finish using specific paper backing tools and technique. Use them on every inch of the knife, including the profile surfaces, not just the bevels and the blade. Being that you own a forge, and an anvil, but choose to do stock removal, (that's OK too, I'm not dissing stock removal) I would suggest you look into some additional equipment and different grinding belts. A wheel for your 2x7 along with your flat platen, will help your bevel grinding and plunge line sets get faster and more accurate. A disc grinder (variable speed and reversible) will help you get your bevels truer and easier to hand sand. Trizac finishing belts will probably get you to a level of finish that is fine for the stock removal market and save you tonnes of time. The handle shape really bugs me Shane. It's what a lot of makers would call a broom handle, not a knife handle. The sides are very rounded and that is more difficult to hold onto than something thinner and more stream lined. (I used to make a lot of handles shaped like that when I first started) A disc grinder is a great tool for handle making, especially on full tang blades. Errant epoxy can easily be avoided with some petroleum jelly applied to anything that you don't want the glue stuck to. What did I miss?
  10. Shortening the blade was my first thought. Other than that, it looks like a great start. Sounds like a plan. You should be able to do it.
  11. Apparently, I don't have any more of an idea about what you are doing than you do. I'm also lacking a lot of information that you probably already have, like what steel you are starting with, what dimensions it measures, what size and shape you would like to end up with, and what seems to be the impediment to you continuing with the forging. As for the question: It doesn't look like much right now. Where are you at in the forging process? It looks to me like you cut a piece off the end of a piece of bar stock to help get the point going, half-forged a tang, and stopped. So, if by "fancy" you mean forge the point to shape, put some bevels in and develop this into something usable, then yes. By all means, do something fancy with it. As it is right now, it doesn't look like a forged blade to me. It looks rather like a pointed club.
  12. I did a double-take on that. Kubolo. Hmm, that has potential......
  13. Today (and yesterday) was file work on the frame for that handle.
  14. I don't know, and it drives me nuts as well.
  15. I always love your work Richard. It never fails to inspire.
  16. Great stuff! It will be a while before I can view the vids. Liz is using most of the bandwidth on a work call.
  17. That is desert ironwood. BTW- It helps if you use the quote function when you ask a question. That way whomever you ask, gets a little notification that someone quoted them and they can find your question faster.
  18. No not at all and not the way I intended it. I love stabilized wood and use it a lot. I also use woods like Cocobolo, Ebony, Blackwood, and Ironwood that really don't take stabilizing well.
  19. That reminded me of a saying one architect I worked with for a few years had. "the best way to stop something from leaking, is to stop it from getting wet"
  20. Cool looking progress Daniel. When I read the words above, and looked at the photo, my first impression was belt grinder marks, but there seem to be very evenly spaced striations within the steel. Some sort of lamellar structure.
  21. Quite true. Prevent the moisture from getting into the wood, and you stop swelling, cracking, and checking. Any decent penetrating sealer will also accomplish the same thing though, no?
  22. Very auspicious Conner. You are the 13th finished piece this year!
  23. Remove it before it cures...... Next time, Right before you clamp the whole ting together, rub a thin film of petroleum jelly (Vaseline) on every surface you don't want the epoxy getting stuck to. Then, after clamping, carefully wipe the epoxy bleed-out off with a cotton swab and more petroleum jelly.
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