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Joshua States

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Everything posted by Joshua States

  1. Basically, the random pattern is any layer billet, forged out however you like. Hand hammer, power hammer, a mixture. If I rmember correctly, you have someone who is willing to work as a striker for you. If you are worried about material loss, the ladder pattern always involves a good bit of loss. As for the twists and the ends not being usable, I typlically put that untwisted section into the tang, so I only lose one end at most. most of my billets are long enough for two knives and I cut it in half so I can work both ends into the tangs. Just a friendly reminder: A brief lecture on pattern welding and pattern development - Beginners Place - Bladesmith's Forum Board (bladesmithsforum.com)
  2. So let me get this straight. The piece that mimics the tang is carved from soapstone?
  3. Most of the guys making Wootz are using these: https://pmcsupplies.com/casting-supplies/crucibles/salamander-crucibles in A4, A5, or A6 sizes depending on the size of their furnace. With careful preparation, you will do only minor damage to the crucible and get 4-6 melts out of a single crucible.
  4. A quick example of cutting grooves for ladder pattern. This pattern looks best in the 250-400 layer range. These bars were 300+ layers and I drew them out to about 3/8" thick, or a little less. The grooves are laid out on each side so they are offset (mostly) Here is a very short video of cutting the grooves with a 3/8" carbide burr in a rotary tool. https://youtu.be/utwxggtAf-I
  5. That looks good Kreg! you might want to try forging some of those pieces flat, stacking them and forge welding them together to start the consolidation process. That's basically what I did when I used nails in this process. After that I made square bars.
  6. With help like that, how could this possibly have gone wrong? Excellent research led to an excellent result.
  7. I set myself up for some forge therapy. I believe that when you are making steel, you should make a lot of it. So, I cut a bunch of strap and stacked it. Then I MIG welded the ends And got ready to light the forge One 300+ layer billet ready to ladder pattern.
  8. That's a really cool sculpture! It looks like Yoda on the Dark Side. Seriously though, congrats on your first melt. Sorry I can't diagnose what problem you have, but maybe @Aiden CC can make a suggestion. Did you take any pics of the furnace setup? I seem to remember that the tuyer angle and height is critical
  9. I remember that article now. Ash and hazel for spears, Alder for almost everything else!
  10. That looks really nice. I have never done a shoulder harness sheath. I have had folks ask for some thing they can wear on the other side for a "cross draw". So, I developed a sheath that can be worn on either side
  11. I have taken to writing on those random blades that sit in the shop with a black Sharpie pen. HT=Heat treated, AF =as forged, and if I am halfway through grinding/finishing, 2=220 grit, 3= 320 grit, etc. I generally write on the tang becasuse the Sharpie will etch the steel over time. Ask me how I know.......
  12. I am loving that one Matt. It looks like the sun over the horizon at sea and the reflection in the water, or a thin wispy cloud across the sun. Beautiful and evocative.
  13. Wow. A lot happens around here when you take a week off-grid!
  14. These sheaths have a variety of names, depending on where they are made. Frog is definitely a common term for Europeans, and usually associated with the chape and throat sheath. I have also heard them called a "Mexican Loop" or just a "Loop Sheath" when referring to a single-edged blade like a Bowie. Here is one I made a while back. One of the overlooked benefits to these types of sheaths is that you can remove the sheath from the loop and just tuck it in your belt. The stud that fits into the loop keeps the sheath from falling below the belt.
  15. UGH! Another thing to add to the list! Damn you AJ! That's really nice man.
  16. Not much time, but I managed to layout, drill and slot a guard and two spacers for that dagger commission.
  17. Someone sent me this video by @JenniferP on making a holdfast that can hold your knife blade on edge on top of the anvil. Good stuff.
  18. I don't know the name of the lodge, but the "rich Guests" is a dead giveaway that the answer is "no". From what I understand, this is more like a hiker's hostel. No electric power, no phone, no amenities. She told us a funny story about one woman, (not a hiker per se) who was complaining about how cold they kept the lodge and asked why the AC was set so low. They told her that if she could find the thermostat, she was welcome to turn the heat up.
  19. Nice rack! (hunting joke) You are a machine dude! They make ones with a handle rather than the "palm" sanders that give you carpal tunnel syndrome. Tim Hancok used one of those square 1/4 sheet sanders upside down and held to the side of his workbech with a hose clamp. I can't say enough about how much I rely on my disc sander.
  20. Develop an easier way to do it. I know that sounds glib, but seriously, if you have machinery, and are still hand sanding your blades up to 400+ grit, you need to rethink your method.
  21. Have fun at the show. I like the blade profile. That's a real sticker!
  22. I made this one as a gift for a friend's niece (maybe cousin?) that spends her summers in a remote lodge in the Smokey Mountains as a guide/lodge manager. Made from a drop, off a bar of pattern welded 1095/15N20 steel in a simple low-layer twist with dyed & stabilized fiddleback maple scales and nickel-silver pins. The photos don't do the scales any justice. They are very chatoyant in person. She sent a photo of her with the knife and the llama that brought the mail, but it's on my wife's phone.
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