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Joshua States

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Everything posted by Joshua States

  1. If you need a round cut, get some chainsaw files and see if that works. They are made for filing hardened steel. If you need a flat surface like the knife bevels, and you don't have a belt grinder, I suggest using an angle grinder. They do make attachments for using basically what amounts to a sandpaper disc on a hard plastic wheel.
  2. This is the state of my shop as of yesterday.
  3. That is a really nice bit of forge work Billy.
  4. The last time I checked you can get a 100# tank for about $200. I recently bought a 40# tank for the crucible forge for $130.
  5. We've been using 100# tanks for the shop since I cannot remember when. Easy to assemble the connections with a trip to the local Ace Hardware or Home Depot. They sell all the pipe and fittings. Here is the setup we have coming off the tank. What you can't see is the fitting on the tank going immediately into the adjustable regulator. Our tank feeds two forges and each one operates on a different pressure, so I need an adjustable regulator. If you only have one forge, you can get by with whatever regulator came with that forge. The red shut-off feeds the ribbon burner and the yellow one feeds the venturi burner. Only use 1/4 turn gas rated valves. Do not cheap out and try using a multi-turn gate valve. A word about old propane tanks. All gas tanks are date stamped on the collar with the month/year they were originally certified. The certification is good for 12 years. If the tank is out of date, some places will not refill it. Recertification is expensive and most propane suppliers do not do it for liability reasons.
  6. My standard 15N20 is .063" thick. Yes, the product is inverse from what we normally see in PW where the dark is often thicker than the shiny. Still, even doubling the 1095 to match the 15N20, a 2" thick billet is around 32 layers visually. If you can fit 2.5 inches in your forge, that's 50 layers. Two welding cycles and you are at 150-200 layers.
  7. Lots of reasons these fail, many have been mentioned. I view angle grinders as consumables and have replaced many of them over the years. Here in the States, my favorite brand for long life is Porter Cable. The others seem to just wear out after 3-4 years.
  8. Dude. It hasn't been a year yet. You still have 6 weeks left.
  9. https://cashenblades.com/2021/02/08/1095/ That will get you everything you need to know. I know what I would do with that steel, depending on how wide it is. I would stack that up with some 15N20 and make pattern weld billets out of it. The layer count would be really high realy fast.
  10. That's pretty cool Geoff.
  11. Seriously upping the game Jake. I saw the blade and handle on FB, but that ferrule and sheath! Whoa baby!
  12. Congratulations! Je vous souhaite de nombreuses années de bonheur, de prospérité et de bonheur.
  13. No idea on that anvil, but I like that base. Reminds me of something..... Anyway, I worked on a 200 pound Peter Wright for a long time and recently switched to a 160 pound fisher. The PW was refaced and not very lively and the Fisher is a dream to use. I'm not sure the extra 60 pounds will make that much difference, but the truth is they list the 200 pounder as out of stock. So depending on how much time you have......the choice may already be made.
  14. The big news is the shop building is now onsite! Now to insulate and drywall it.
  15. We spent the last week out there doing the flooring. Liz starting The finished product
  16. Update 2024...... I went out the last weekend of March to finish hooking up the well pump and water supply. The house now has all utilities and gas for the stove, heat, and water heater. This happened March 30 and I woke up to 3 inches of fresh snow.
  17. Thanks for that. It's very helpful to see the progression. You do wonderful work sir.
  18. Yes. Straight 1095 from Admiral Steel. I forgot to take a photo of the clayed blade. This is the second one I made as the first one blew itself apart in the quench and I was pressed for time making another one.
  19. Good stuff! My copper alloy casting attempts have all been on a relatively small scale, just plates and some fittings for knives and sheaths. I have a couple of plate molds, a small rod mold and three different sizes of sand casting frames. I doubt that I will ever try anything as large as a bronze dagger or a sword so kudos to those who try and a major wow to those who succeed. @Jeroen Zuiderwijk is the resident expert on this and he has several threads of his bronze castings including swords, dirks, small knives, multiple tools, and I seem to remember a light saber at one point. Check his threads out for the ups and downs and solutions to problems he has encountered.
  20. Over the weekend I did some finish sanding on the K-tip.After surfacing to get it straight, the hamon started showing around 220 grit. I took it up to 1000 grit and will probably get to etching it today.
  21. Very relevant and supportive of m assesment. "In the eight-layer sample it is observed that the pearlite concentration has almost equalized, however ferrite still decorates the prior-austenitic grain boundaries in the 203E layer (Fig. 6). By the time the material has reached 16 layers, the carbon content of the sample appears to be uniform as shown by both layers consisting of nearly 100% pearlite" So they started with 4 layers and after the second fold, they had managed to even out the carbon content. I will face facts that this experiment was working at much higher heat (welding heat) than I suggested when I said to soak the initial bar above 1450F. My understanding is that carbon migration starts at or around critical temp and the process quickens with higher heat.
  22. There is a good chance that the pallet straps have a coating that needs to be burnt off before you stack and weld them. Same goes for the bandsaw blades. I would throw all the cut pieces into the forge and bring them up to a red heat to burn off any coating. Then you can wire wheel them clean again to prep for welding.
  23. So lay the bandsaw strips two on a piece of pallet strap with the teeth on the outer edge and cover with another piece of pallet strap. If you are carefull, the straight edge of the bandsaw should keep tight to each other lessening, or even eliminating any chance of a weld void. after welding, grond the edges down. When I used bandsaw blades I ground the teeth off because the kerf creates a space between the bandsaw and the piece next to it. you need to remove the teeth to avoid that.
  24. You can just use multiple pieces of thin stock rather than buying thicker stock. So what does the final pattern look like? The pattern I see in the 4-way pic looks pretty dang good to me.
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