Jump to content

Joshua States

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by Joshua States

  1. Let me preface this by saying I haven't the technical or historical knowledge to render an "experienced" opinion about swords. That said, I think you should build it the way you designed it. You will pretty quickly find out whether the guard is too fat, or too long, or the blade is whatever. The real learning experience is in making the mistake, recognizing it, and completing the correction. Every time a craftsman sets themselves a new challenge, they test themselves. Testing yourself is a good thing because "one good test is worth a thousand expert opinions" (typically credited to Wernher Von Braun) FWIW, I think it looks like a great design and I am going to follow this thread to see the WIP. Thanks.
  2. What you ended up with looks antique. The variations in hue combined with the texture and semi-rough surface makes the knife look very period, if you know what I mean. Like something from the 1800's. Gorgeous.
  3. I really like that handle. The carving really sets it off. Good job!
  4. Thanks for all the info Karl. I've been meaning to try this ever since I saw some at ICCE. Now there's a lot less guess work.
  5. Nice wolf's tooth Karl, and I love that black ash burl. One of my personal faves. San Mai, with 416 (?) and what?
  6. Awesome work Robert. If you don't mind me asking, what did you patina the Shibu with? I'm really liking the coloration.
  7. I use Watco Danish Oil on all my wood handles. I use the the natural color, it darkens only slightly.
  8. If you are going to do this process, do it before you assemble the scales to the handle. Do not boil the micarta. Once you have the knife finish where you want it, carefully remove the finish from the sides where the handle scales will attach. Leave about 1/8" or less of a perimeter around the handle area with untouched finish. Leave some heavy grind lines so your epoxy will bond. Epoxy hates smooth surfaces. The handle scales should cover anything that is unsightly.
  9. Gabriel, The 3/32 NS pins should be fine. Don't use three pins centered though. Use 6 pins, three down each edge (about 3/16" from the edge). Micarta will squeeze your pins till they shriek, so slightly over-drill the holes. I think I use a #41 machinist's drill for 3/32 pins.
  10. I finally had the time to watch this. It was truly inspirational. Thanks for posting that video.
  11. Good advice that. Except there's a fourth tool......a pair of tongs, or at least a big set of pliers
  12. Same here. When I went to a blower assisted burner, I was getting much hotter with a lot less propane. My typical running pressure was at about 5-7 pounds, 5 for regular forging, 7 for welding heat. The ribbon burner with blower I use now gets to welding heat from dead cold in 7 minutes. Here is the old blower assisted burner. The new ribbon burner running. (not a great pic) So I turned it off and took another pic.
  13. Copied and pasted from: http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=32467&hl= My two cents on cold blueing and patinas. This is counter intuitive, but what I do and it works pretty well. Birchwood Casey Cold Blue or Plum Brown are best applied hot, or warm. Say around 170* F. That produces a pretty even and dark coat that is fairly stable. Multiple coats (no more than 3) are advised. I haven't tried it, but some friends of mine who make knives use some oily or fatty foods that produce a grey or black patina that helps protect the steel from the effects of moisture and won't come off, but it doesn't make it rust-proof like a bluing does. Grey Poupon mustard is a good example. So is sticking the knife in a potato for a few hours or soaking in a jar of coffee for a couple of days. Your question: Side note --- would Corby bolts x3 be best for replaceable scales and no epoxy? Or the standard procedure or pins/epoxy for security? Corby screws usually get the slots ground off during finishing. For a "survival knife" who's owner "wants it to be coated in some fashion to make it a bit more durable and/or rust resistant", I would assume that he doesn't want to take care of a natural handle material any more than he wants to take care of the blade. So, give him some nice micarta or G-10 scales, or maybe some stabilized wood, if he wants something really cool looking and use a standard epoxy assembly. Anything you make him that comes apart, will be taken apart, and either lost or broken.
  14. What forge are you using that you need to run it at 12 pounds? That seems awfully high, and would use up propane pretty fast. I run the NC Tools whisper daddy (3-burner) at 4 or 5 pounds and my ribbon burner (with blower) at 3 pounds.
  15. I would greatly appreciate that. The handle is....I can't quite find the right word, "outstanding" sounds limp, "masterful" sounds inadequate. but I really want to know how it's done. Having the opportunity to see someone at the top of the game go through the steps is invaluable.
  16. I agree with Alan about the hammer face. That shape is also going to move metal in all directions rather than mostly in the direction you want. When picking a hammer to use, think about this analogy for the hammer face: If you drop a bowling ball into a mud puddle, which way does the mud go? If you drop a log into a mud puddle, which way does the mud go? If you drop a box into the mud puddle....and so on. If you look at Alan's Hawk thread, you will notice that he uses several (3) different hammers throughout the process. He even posted a pic of all three with the peen faces to articulate the different hammers for different uses. It's about halfway down the first page. Without knowing what your finished knife is supposed to look like, it's difficult to point you in the right direction for the next steps. So, I'll give you a piece of advice based on how I make knives (or anything else for that matter). I start with a full scale drawing of the finished piece with detailed notes about what it will look like and what the little bits are made of, etc. Then I make my forging template from that. I'm a big fan of templates and I commend you on your intuitive use of one.
  17. Welcome to the Forum John, and welcome to a new addiction that isn't illegal or immoral. Where to start? Here's my advice: Forget about buying anything right now (except maybe a few good books). Your first stop should be here: https://www.abana.org/affiliates/affiliate_map.shtml to find the local blacksmith group in your area. Based on your location, you next stop will be here: http://illinoisblacksmith.org/ Check their events calendar, go to a hammer-in, open forge, demonstration, or other such event. There you will meet other smiths, some newbies, some old experienced salty dogs, some that are somewhere in the middle. You will see anvils, grinders, hear all the opinions your brain can handle and then some more. You will begin to build a network of helpful folks, find used stuff cheap, and maybe even learn a little about smithing along the way. Like Gabriel said, you don't need to be a smith to be a knife maker, but you posed questions that indicate you are interested in being a blade-smith. My advice is to learn the basic skills of a blacksmith, before you attempt to become a Blade-smith.
  18. Or a small finishing hammer.........kinda cute though. Good for dressing small to medium size game.
  19. I have two different marks, both are etched in the ricasso area. They are not as imaginative as those shown before, but they are my initials in an oval or my last name. Both come in large or small sizes depending on the knife.
  20. Wow! That's a beautiful piece of work. How much do I have to pay you to do a WIP on the next one?
  21. Nice random pattern Damascus. I assume these are full tang construction? If so, good job with hiding the bolster pins. Can we see some pics of the spines and bellies?
  22. I was wondering when this would resurface. Great to see you back at it Lukas. Bring it on!
  • Create New...