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Joshua States

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Everything posted by Joshua States

  1. copy, borrow, steal, When it comes to art, it's all semantics really....... This is another one of those inspiring builds that gets me doing some heavy introspection. I am seriously rethinking my career as a knife maker. I am starting to believe I need to move in another direction.
  2. Dave, do you use tool steel for the punch/drift, or will mild work?
  3. That's an excellent piece Austin. I really like the combination of colors you chose. The gun blue looks great with the red and yellowish steaks in the Macassar. The handle shape is fine. Hopefully, you made a template of that knife and can add it to your "standard models." You should be able to sell them often. (in both flat and hollow grinds as per the customer's desire) About those hollow grinds, I will rough them in with a 8" serrated wheel and finish them on a 10" smooth wheel.
  4. I have to extend my personal thanks to Justin Carnecchia for introducing me to this forum. I also have to extend many thank you's to the family of bladesmiths from all over the world that come here and give me inspiration, guidance, new ideas (whenever I say "thanks for the arrow"), and methods. I have cruised through many online knife making forums, blacksmith forums, etc. The quality of the work on this site is only surpassed by the quality of the people on it.
  5. Actually this is a pretty hot niche market right now. There are several makers (both custom and production) developing lines specifically tailored for women's self-defense. A quick Google search of these terms "Knives specifically for women & self defense" will yield almost 800,000 hits. I recently had a female student who wanted to make her own concealed carry blade.
  6. Profiled and finished grinding to 320 those two O-1 knives I heat treated with that 1095 Bowie. Couldn't work on the Bowie while Liz was forging and making stuff, because I have to video it for the WIP series. Well, maybe tomorrow.
  7. Here is a short video on the heat treatment of the blade.
  8. Dave, that makes perfect sense and what a great method! That can be used for virtually and blade/guard combination. Thanks for the arrow!
  9. A most marvelous and mythic journey this will be. Adventure and mystery awaits those who are of stout heart. Lead on, lead on, guide us to the epic marvels. We are but wondering, wandering children in the halls of this great tale.
  10. Красивая работа. потрясающий рисунок. (Beautiful work. A stunning pattern.)
  11. Robert, this was very informative and I really appreciate the effort. I have been meaning to find this information and make some rings with my mokume and now I have a great tutorial to work from. Thank you to Alan as well for the pin, now I won't have to search for it when the time comes! (one ring to rule them all)
  12. I've seen pictures of your arms, so I know you can draw...... I also used to work very organically, designing at the anvil, figuring out the handle design after the blade was forged and finished, experimenting along the way, etc. Things were going well, I thought. Then one day someone suggested I do the opposite and completely design the knife down to the last detail before I even put the steel in the forge. Being a fan of "not-doing" I decided to give it a shot. So I built three knives. Two were by the new technique and the third was by my normal methods. I finished all three knives and was pretty happy with the way they all turned out, so I took them to work to show the guys in the shop. These guys are not knife makers, only one of them (the welder guy) was a metal worker of any kind. These guys were building maintenance workers. Carpenters, plumbers, HVAC mechanics, etc. Skilled tradesmen all, but not knife aficionados by any stretch. All three knives were of the same quality (or so I thought) in terms of fit & finish, materials, etc. Everyone had the same opinion. The two knives I had designed from the beginning were much "higher quality" than the organic one. Nobody could tell me why they felt that way, they just did. Now I have a new method of making knives and it's just as much fun as the old method. The truth be told, it's much more challenging. So it's really more fun.
  13. Oh you certainly can, and you will!
  14. This is quite the creative build. Sort of East meets West.
  15. Zach, Steel "melts" at about 3000 degrees F. and your forge probably won't get that hot. However, you do want to be careful about how hot you do get the steel and .125" (1/8 inch) is pretty thin for forging and will overheat quickly. The size you mentioned is typical for stacking and forge welding in Damascus work, but not typical for forging a knife from. Unless you are thinking of forging small knives that do not require much thickness in the finished blade (and not much forging work either). When all the forging and grinding is completed, the finished blade will usually be significantly thinner than the original steel bar. So, what ever knife you plan on making, the finished blade will likely be somewhere in the 1/16" to 3/32" thickness range, if you start with 1/8" stock. A small EDC or bird & trout might be feasible. If you want to try your hand at forge welding, you could use that steel for the center/edge steel in a San Mai style blade, but I don't know what your skill set is, and that is a fairly advanced technique. You would probably be better off starting with 1/4" thick bar or even 3/8" thick for a typical sheath knife. 1095 http://www.knifemaking.com/category-s/288.htm 5160 http://www.knifemaking.com/category-s/289.htm
  16. Gabriel, are you watching them embedded in the post, or going directly to the YouTube channel and watching them there? You are very welcome Andrew. I'm glad you liked them.
  17. Here's the second part of the rough grinding operation. Next up will be heat treating.
  18. J.J. You just keep doing what you feel like doing! It's all part of the journey and your knives are looking great. Hmmm, the ABS forum.........Probably because they "shoe shine" the final finish so they end up with a crown, or at least rolled edges. I'm not opposed to breaking the edge a little and calling it square. Maybe that's what they meant, but it doesn't have to be crowned.
  19. About that "sliding motion" to push the choil down and get it straight. This is a really good step to take in the forging. I do a similar operation, but I put the knife point down in my post vice and use a flat bar or a smaller hammer as a forge block. Holding the forge block against the choil, strike the top of the block.
  20. Look for an old air compressor with a burned up motor. Those ones Home Despot sells like this one: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-20-Gal-175-psi-Quiet-Portable-Air-Compressor-C201H/206189626 often burn the motor up and leave a great tank behind. These make great slack tubs. Home Cheapo also sells 4 inch ABS or PVC schedule 40 pipe. You can use a 2 ft piece of this for for a quench tank if you are really careful not to bang the red hot knife into the side wall.........I would suggest going to a steel yard in your area and checking the scrap area for a piece of 6 inch or bigger steel pipe though. They usually sell this stuff for around $1.50 a pound or less. I almost forgot.....the dirk is looking good!
  21. I'm a lot closer than that. It's only about a 5 or 6 hour drive from San Diego to New River.
  22. It just looks off to me. If I round the bottom of the ricasso, I also round the spine of the blade. If I leave the spine square, I leave the bottom of the ricasso square. Just my personal compulsiveness......... "Past that, having read a conversation on another forum about the bottom of ricasso never being truly square. That they are to some extent crowned." Balderdash I say. If you want it square, make it square. Why would it be possible to make the spine square, but not the bottom of the ricasso?
  23. I thought I had responded to this thread some time ago (like when it first appeared) but, I seem to have imagined that. That's a really nice finish JJ and the information contained here is wonderful. If I could turn your attention back to the knife for a moment, I do have a design question to ask. It looks like the spine is square cut, but the bottom of the ricasso is rounded. Is that correct, and was it intentional?
  24. Well GoPro Studio has been driving me crazy for a while now, but I finally got some of the rough grinding/HT video edited. I had to break up the rough grind & heat treating into two videos. In this half, I go through all of the prep work before grinding the bevels.
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