Jump to content

Joshua States

Members
  • Posts

    6,568
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    210

Everything posted by Joshua States

  1. I think everyone is taking the term "fishing hook" way too literally. These could also be "fishing hook-like objects" that would sell pretty well to the body-piercing crowd for jewelry! Just think how cool one of those would look through Lady Gaga's eyebrow, or belly button, or (insert preferred body part location)........
  2. Looks like fun Geoff. Don't forget to take some photos and post them up.
  3. I think what Geoff means by "broken back" is that the knife looks bent where the handle meets the blade. This is often the case where the top or spine of the handle does not align with the spine of the knife and the same for the belly of the handle with the bottom of the ricasso. These two lines do not always have to meet and be in line, they can be off, but they had better be both off by the same distance so that the handle is centered on the ricasso area or the blade. The other "broken back"part is that the handle starts above the spine and then seems to continue going upward rather than downward or straight. It just looks crooked. My personal taste is that these lines are in line and match, unless the ricasso is really wide, much wider than one would want the handle to be. In which case the spine/belly lines of the handle should be fairly parallel to the spine/ricasso bottom lines of the blade. Sort of like Gary Mulkey did on this knife: http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=32947&hl= All in all, you did a very good job, especially if this is a first try using antler and with such a large blade.
  4. Bloody brilliant that is! Now if we could get a photo of you with the Trident together with Petr and his Trollslayer......
  5. Richard, beautiful as always. I have to say that I find your Damascus patterns to be unique and intriguing. I haven't a clue how you do them, but they are always stunning and mysterious to view.
  6. Nice knife JJ. It looks so........lethal. The Hamon is very cool. Nice activity.
  7. What's to improve? The grain is pretty dang uniform and fairly small/smooth in texture. The thing was as tough as an old leaf spring and took a serious beating before failure. Good job on that one I'd say.
  8. Thanks, but it's really not a jaw dropper. I appreciate the comment though! I think there are a few issues with this knife proportion-wise. I think I'll shorten the upper branch of the guard by about half. It just looks way too big to my eye.
  9. Here are my recommendations on where to start: (not necessarily in order of preference, just all good starting points) https://www.abana.org/affiliates/affiliate_map.shtml National association of blacksmithing and metal arts. Find the local chapter nearest to you. Join it and attend the meetings and events. This builds your network of smiths and exposes you to the art of forging steel. http://www.americanbladesmith.com/index.php?section=pages&id=174 National association (I guess it's global now) dedicated to the art of the forged blade. Offering classes, information, and a youtube channel. Membership has its benefits. http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showforum=27 Listing of bladesmith/blacksmith teachers on this forum. Books are great and certainly less expensive than taking classes, but they do not lower the learning curve a whole lot. many of us started with books (like me), but my knife making didn't really take off until I found a mentor. Hammer-ins and other demonstrations give you the benefit of seeing an experienced smith at work. It's a great help to actually see how things are done. Classes provide the most effective learning environment and will relax the learning curve more than anything else. Working with a experienced smith is far more educational and enjoyable than trying to figure this out on your own. Good luck, and welcome to the wonderful and addictive world of forged steel. I hope you stick around and show us what you have going on. I leave you with one bit of caution.
  10. Eh.....Uh......um....wow. My brain locked up.
  11. Speaking of splattering molten flux.......... One Monday I was a work in a short sleeve shirt and there were all these little round red blister marks all over my forearms. One of the electricians asked if I had a rash. I told her no, just that I had lit myself on fire over the weekend.
  12. Both MSC (mscdirect.com) and ENCO (use-enco.com) sell O-1 and W-1 drill rod in a variety of diameters. Very interesting experiment you have going here. I didn't know that O-1 was shite for Hamon activity, but I always wondered why nobody used it. Looking at the coloration in the blade, I tend to agree with J.J. about the weld line and the decarb layer. I think you have ground your way into the 1018 core. But, I've been wrong before.......
  13. I shaped the spacer package to match the front end of the handle. I drill two 1/16" alignment pins through all three pieces and pin it to a piece of 1/4 masonite hardboard for easy cutting on the bandsaw and profiling at the grinder. Then I shaped the guard, coined and blued the steel spacers, and blued the frame. And here it is. Almost done. Sorry about the big ding in the guard....... I still have to router out some space on the insides of the scales, cut new pins and glue the handle up. Right now the handle is drying from the stain/sealer coat. When that's dry, I can glue this puppy up, peen the pins in the handle and blue the pin tops.
  14. Brian, I suggest the DVD by Dwayne Dushane for excellent step-by-step instruction on Rope, Vine, and "S" patterns. I did the handle belly the other day and took some photos of the process. I primarily use two files to do this pattern, a chainsaw file and a modified marking file. The marking file has had the flat side ground clean. Start by laying out the spacing on whatever the object is. I happen to know this handle frame patter takes a 3/16" spacing on the spine and a 1/4" spacing on the belly. Then cut straight across the top with the chainsaw file to create a series of parallel grooves, evenly spaced, and about 1/3 the depth of the file. Then, using the marking file on edge, cut a series of lines in the middle of the flat spots. Back to the chainsaw file and round off the edge of the grooves on one end. These cuts start on the top and as the file travels toward the edge, it rises up and moves slightly forward until the file is almost parallel to the side of the workpiece. Then do the other end the same way. Finish by starting parallel on one side, come up & over the top, and continue down the other side. I didn't get a pic of the next step, but it is the same process for those little lines in the centers of the flat areas. You use the modified marking file on edge and do the same cut & roll to round off the corners of the flat areas. Then using the round face of the marking file, smooth out the remaining parts of the flat areas and create a sharp ridge as indicated by the scribe point. You can see the widening/rounding I decscibed in the step without the photo. The clean up is accomplished by wrapping sand paper around a smooth round bar and sanding the surfaces to whatever grit you like.
  15. I have a homemade blower-ribbon burner and a NC Tools Whisper Daddy (my wife's forge really). I tried getting the NC tools to weld and it took too much gas for my wallet. There are smaller versions of the venturi style forge. Here is a good website to browse various makes/models of commercially available forges. There are 5 different manufacturers listed across the top of the page. (Pieh Tool/Johnson/ForgeMaster/Mankel/NC) http://www.piehtoolco.com/contents/en-us/d808.html You can also buy the burners separately and build the forge body out of just about anything, plate, pipe, sheet steel, heck I've even seen one made from expanded metal with the Koawool wired to it. I owned a couple of these T-Rex burners a long time ago. http://www.hybridburners.com/ That forge worked great for a long time. I traded it for something...... I have also seen these burners and forges used for Damascus making: http://www.chileforge.com/ Many years ago I saw Ray Rybar do a mosaic demo and he used a Chile Forge.
  16. Khichigai Americajing In Boston when you tell someone you lost your Khakies, they know you don't mean your pants. They know you need a ride home from the bar......
  17. Well, I have shaped the frame and scales. I usually do a rope pattern file-work on this handle design and I was ambivalent about going the extra mile, mostly because my carpal tunnel was killing me for the last couple of days, but my sense of esthetics won me over. I tried to take some photos of the process, but they came out crappy. I did get the top of the frame mostly done. It could use a little more sanding. Here it is in the sandwich with the red oak scales.
  18. What a beautiful package Matthew. Your carving skills (all mediums) are exemplary.
  19. BTW Salem, I was amazed at just how much you look like Frank Zappa.........are you a fan?
  20. I just checked in on this thread. This is coming out fantastic R.W. Thanks for the WIP. BTW-I really like that ruler! Quite the collectible.
  21. Gary, copyrights usually expire something like 25 years after the death of the last living copyright holder. That video is at least 85 years old. I cannot say for certain, but my money is on it being in the public domain by now. Oh yeah, if I did it correctly, Steve's video should appear in the "next up" location when you go to youtube using the link I provided.... (gotta support our friends ya know!) Jerrod, I didn't realize it had already been posted before. I just like to watch that every now and again. Get's me inspired to push my limits. I have to get better at searching the forum for topics. Owen, I can't get to that site from work, (it's restricted?). I'll check it when I get home.
  22. Those nasty and scary white lines can be avoided by spraying the mating surfaces with pure graphite before the restack. Another method is to stack the billet pieces up and weld or wire the ends together. Then while they are still warm from the weld (or pre-heat slightly before putting into the fire) dunk them in kerosene or diesel fuel.
  23. This is a 25 minute film from around 1925~1931 of Belgian French or Flemish (not sure) Damascus gun barrel makers. I thought it was interesting enough to post here. https://youtu.be/fa9dlvRDuQU
×
×
  • Create New...