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Joshua States

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Everything posted by Joshua States

  1. I feel the same way. IMNSHO, any Damascus blade should be the focal point of the knife. Any additional patterned hardware should compliment, but not distract. For instance, I could have used a piece of the blade bar and made the guard from it. and the same with the frames. That would be way too much for me. That's why I chose bold, low-layer for the fittings and traditional twist for the frame.
  2. Thanks everyone. I will be trying the ring hilt again on a different project and will post the process when I get there. This feels very fast and light to me. At less than 15 oz, this is not a heavy tool. The physical balance point is just forward of the guard, maybe by 1/4". I think so too. He would have smiled and then written a list of everything that was "wrong" with it, and I would have been forever gratefull for his insight. As it stands, my personal list is only 6 items, but I have already asked Brion Tomberlin to give it a hard critique once he has it in his hand. So I am hopeful that he will point out something I missed.
  3. I am fundamentaly lazy and cheap. The most effort I spend on anything is figuring out the easiest and least expensive way to do it. Emphasis is on "easy". I got this little trick from Jean Louis Regel for putting curves in guards that might just work for your bending jig. First I took some pieces of round rod and a piece of heavy walled pipe. and drilled some holes in them for a small diameter piece of round rod. These go in the vice and I place the part of the guard in between them. The center is the diameter you want the bend to match and must be a larger diameter than at least one of the pushing pieces. Tighten the vice jaws and the workpiece bends around the center rod. You could either try and use a center rod the diameter you want and two smaller pieces to push the copper around, or you counld make a wood block with a groove cut in it (like Alan suggested) and hang it on one side of the vice. Then use the round rod to push the copper into the curve in the wood block. Either way, you now have a method to recreate this effect and it's no longer a "one-off". It is repeatable.
  4. I can never get them open fast enough to make it to the quench
  5. I think somewhere around here I made a post about how to make the stitching holes using a tapered 5/64" drill bit. Basically glue everything together, mark the holes, drill in the drill press all at once, and sew it up. If desired, the entire thing can be peeled apart, tooled, reglued, and stitched back together. The trick to keeping the holes straight is to back up the leather with a piece of wood so the leather doesn't bend under the pressure.
  6. The curved spine to the sudden clip point is a very dramatic transition, and I think it works. The slight back tip to the blade heel and the impeccable straightness of the corners there. The small curve at the top to the sudden drop and a crisp square at the heel all work to visually attract the eye. The choice of handle wood and the grain also add additional percieved movement. The knife is not static visually, it moves.
  7. BTW- It's not a completely altruistic decision. These two knives (one JS and one MS donation) will be auctioned off at a special meeting of some of the biggest collectors in the world. There is also a write-up coming in Blade magazine. I am doing this for the exposure as I refuse to apply to FIF.....
  8. Thanks Alan, but it's missing the mandatory flutes and twisted wire inlays...details featils. Thanks Charles. I have never showed the process to produce this particular pattern (I call it Turbulence) anywhere but here. Feel free to give it a whirl.
  9. This started out as a commission for someone who passed away before I could start on the handle. Then it morphed into an experiment in trying to forge a ring hilt from a single piece of steel. Then I got asked to donate a knife to the ABS annual auction as the Journeyman donor. That was when any idea of experimenting went out the window and I tried to focus on things I already knew how to do well. (with a couple of things I didn't know really well!) Stats: All PW steel is 1095 & 15N20. non-ferrous hardware is .04" nickel-silver. Handle scales are desert ironwood. Blade length is 277 mm, width at base is 27,5 mm. OAL is414 mm, guard width is 143 mm. Weight is 422 g. This is now done. Here are a few pics of the finished project. Right before final assembly. This is take-down and can be dismantled mostly. The 5-piece spacer can come apart. The 6-piece handle is held together with 8 domed pins and cannot come apart.
  10. Very nice indeed. You are one of the rare breed of makers who actually understands that a B&T needs to be different from the average skinner.
  11. That is probably the most dramatic piece I have see from you, and possibly just in general. Definitely an attention grabber. Yes, you have a style and I like it.
  12. Who would have thought this would be a thing? Two links below. https://www.boredpanda.com/cat-mice-armor-jeff-de-boer/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=organic https://youtu.be/Pa2SPIl-alE (Right click with the mouse and "open in new tab")
  13. An amazing balance of refined and rustic. Well done.
  14. I stopped count the hours a long time ago. Fantastic build and thank you for taking us along on the journey. It's a pleasure watching your work evolve.
  15. I really like this one a lot! Nice process pics too. Did you find the epoxy bedding to be an excessively messy ordeal?
  16. Even with all of that, this is a very worthwhile project. My hat's off to you sir.
  17. I will make a kitchen knife that nice someday! Someday soon......."soon" being relative.
  18. I think the blade would benefit by taking the edge all the way to the end of the blade. That little ricasso-esque feature is extraneous to my eyes. A blade this size, meant to skin game, really works best with a full-flat grind all the way up the blade. This gets tricky when you want to filework the spine, so there's a delicate balance. This also moves the "ricasso" thing further up and tpward the handle scales. To accomodate the filework, you leave a slim flat spot along the spine, something like this where everything below the blue line is bevel.
  19. Here are my suggestions for the simplest and least expensive way for you to start with the tools and equipment you already have, and some basic additions. Check out this thread By Emiliano Carillo on the small refining hearth. This will get you some smaller products that you can proces on the forging equipment you already have with minimal expenitures on hearth and fuel. For an example of the forging/finishing processes, check out this thread by JJ Simon. When you get that process under control and want to expand the possibilities to multi-bar work, I suggest you spend some time reading this thread by Aiden CC.
  20. Awesome Robert. congrats all around
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