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Joshua States

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Everything posted by Joshua States

  1. This is most important and the only thing I would add is lighter pressure ALL the time, not just at the end. There's a really good video of Don Fogg demonstrating draw filing around here somewhere. I'll see, if I can locate it again. Here is the link: https://youtu.be/XJSfrp8VfNY
  2. @Gerhard Gerber no such thing as a cop out. If you make it, and people will buy it, that's called "success" in my book.
  3. O-1 is one of my primary knife steels. I have not used it for Damascus, but I have see some from folks who have. I would not use it with 1095 as they both have similar carbon content and the contrast would not be great for pattern welding. Try using O-1 and the standard 15N20 and you should get a great combination. If you have access to 1095, that and 15N20 is a very common Damascus combo. Some things about O-1 that you should know if you plan on forging this steel. It likes to be forged HOT (900-1100*C). Do not do any serious forging below 850*C. It is deep hardening and not ideal for Hamon production. It is hypereutectiod and kind of difficult to anneal without a controllable oven and long (several hours) soak times. When normalizing, heat it fast and cool in still air. Slow cooling forms carbide sheets that will ruin drill bits, saw blades, and other machining tools in an instant. It finishes well and will keep a very good edge.
  4. I usually coat my leather work with a Fiebings product called Acrylic Resolene.
  5. Yes indeed. It's about time I put this into use and this dreadful beast won't fit through the door on my welding forge. I don't know why, but I feel as though I must continue forging it out in the futile hope that it will become a less-ugly duckling. The can on my watering thingy has pin holes in the bottom. I do not have Whitaker's book, and I'm not really visualizing the contraption. I guess I could put the holes up high on the left side of the can and accomplish the same thing. I made this snug enough to hold the can well, but not so tight that it cannot be removed with a little wiggling. Maybe I'll switch it out the next time I open a can of olives.
  6. https://www.knifemaking.com/searchresults.asp?Search=quench+oil&Submit= I hope your boss doesn't frequent the forum...….. Probably not. You just need to tune the air mix and pressure balance. Unless you have too large a forge volume with burners that are too small,
  7. And contestant number 2 is getting into shape.
  8. No, I was not kidding. Hopefully, it is now much clearer why it is so difficult to maintain consistent nomenclature.
  9. Yesterday, I made some tools in preparation for a forging project
  10. I just saw this and listened to the first three episodes back to back. I do not, by choice, spend time listening to podcasts, or reading blogs, or watching vlogs. My time online is limited to this forum, the ABS forum, and browsing my FB feed for items that enrich my life (it's a short read really) That being said, I could very easily become addicted to this. Well done Mr. Stephens, and thank you very much. My only regret is that I do not have any of the apps to share with. (sigh)
  11. What about the fresh fruit in the house? How do you defend yourself against someone armed with a banana?
  12. John White produced some spectacular Hamon activity using only fast oil with an interrupted quench. I printed out his written guide to his process and have made it available in numerous places on this forum and other sites. Here is a link to download the document: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Y8X4r3wskCYO_DYxSGIQ8WmWT0Wf-T2v Another thing to remember about producing high activity. The activity changes depending on the etchant used in the finishing process.
  13. So let's imagine a novice, who without the benefit of a living, breathing teacher, only has a book to learn from. In deference to Gerald's desire to have consistent language and terminology, you are going to create the book she has to learn from. Would you arrange the chapters on forging techniques in the order you think she should learn them, or just assemble a group of techniques and let her decide on which ones to start with? Most of us would start with what we think of as "basics" and move through the book in order of difficulty, or skill level required. If I were to write such a tome, the first 5 or 6 techniques would not include forge welding, but that's just my perspective. Forge welding can be done in a variety of ways for a variety of end results. Most of which involve learning other techniques first (think about scarfs for collars, bends to increase mass, etc.) This puts forge welding somewhere after the basics are learned, no? I think "basic skills" are solitary, stand alone. Once you start combining two or more basic functions, you are no longer "basic". By definition, you are into "complex". This is now a complex process. Two basic processes combined into a more difficult process. Does this make it require a different name? Apparently so. Does it make it a different process? Some would say yes, others no. I thought you wanted to have this discussion, so I was trying to provide alternate viewpoints. (damned hard work it is too).
  14. Because I'm Sicilian, I love to argue. It's a cultural thing. So how do we define "upsetting"? I think of it as changing the cross sectional dimension along one axis (more likely two axes) to grow while reducing the third axis dimension. Your example of upsetting the end of a bar to increase mass in a specific area meets this definition as does spreading the taper to form a leaf. If the only difference between "upsetting" and "spreading" is which axis grows and which reduces, are they different processes, or just different names for the same process with a different result? When you "upset" the end of that bar, aren't you "spreading" it out? Cut 1" off the end of a round bar. Stand it upright on the anvil and flatten it out until it resembles a flat round disc. Did you upset it, or spread it? This is arguing semantics. Advanced skills are by definition those which require a higher skill level. All this proves is that the learning curve is lessened exponentially by a good teacher, especially during a high concentration of time. If you do not think that you took those 5 rank beginners from novice to an advanced level in a week, then you do yourself an injustice.
  15. Very good points and worthy of discussion. In The Artist Blacksmith, by Peter Parkinson, he devotes a chapter to each of the following techniques/processes: Drawing Down (he includes tapering as a subset of drawing down), Bending, Upsetting/spreading, Hot cutting, Punching (also called drifting), Twisting, and Joining (he includes forge welding as a subset of joinery) for a total of 7 basic processes. Whereas Lorelei Sims, in The Backyard Blacksmith, calls these 6 techniques the "basic" skills: Tapering, spreading, upsetting, bending, scrolling, and twisting. Forge welding and joinery are a separate topic and more advanced skills. For me, making a uniform taper is far simpler than drawing out uniformly. After all, you can make a taper and never change the position on the anvil or what part of the hammer you use. Drawing a piece out and making it uniform takes a variety of anvil placements, hammer angles, and can use different hammer faces. I consider them two separate techniques, but what do I know? I guess many of us develop different viewpoints on what techniques are "basic" skills, which ones are "advanced", and which ones are "expert" level. I would never expect a beginner to learn forge welding or scrolling until they had achieved a certain level of ability in what I consider more "basic" skills. I guess I never considered bending a technique as much as I thought it was a natural by-product of forging in general. The distinction was intentional bending, which seemed almost intuitive at the beginner level, and got more refined into a technique at more advanced levels. The difference between putting a curve in a coat hook that needs no specific shape versus making a right angle for a shelf bracket or door hardware, which needs to be more precise. Basic and advanced. The problem with language is that it is constantly evolving and much is left to interpretation. The problem with communication is the illusion that it has occurred. For instance, the process of spreading. Is this a form of upsetting or drawing down? Does it depend on which axis of the piece is affected? Is spreading a distinct process and not a subset of either one? What about beveling? (as in what knife makers do for the blade) is that spreading, tapering, upsetting, or something different?
  16. I always thought the 6 basic processes were tapering, drawing, fullering, squaring, rounding, and drifting. Maybe there are 10 basic processes?
  17. Moral of the story: Get the whole thing hot before forging.
  18. Just had time to check this out before my Wi-Fi time expires. I love the finished product and am very grateful for the WIP
  19. Now for you bronze-age guys, I also visited a museum at Marsala where they uncovered a Punic Wars era boat that had been covered by sand for a couple thousand years. No weapons unfortunately, but there were a bunch of lead and bronze nails and a couple of lead anchors. Evidently, the wooden hull was covered with lead sheet and riveted on. I have a couple of better pics of the boat on my camera, and can update when I get home.
  20. City of Cefalu at the Norman Cathedral (12th century) Notice the iron fence and gate (original installation!) Here are the close-ups of the joinery.
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