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Joshua States

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Everything posted by Joshua States

  1. Another one in the can. That's film & music biz talk.
  2. Some of you may have noticed the white lines travelling along the weld seams in the last two photos. This is an inherent risk in multi-bar patterns. I demonstrated how to avoid this in my 2016 KITH thread using graphite spray on the mating surfaces before welding. (A trick I learned from Tim Hancock) Well, I just plumb forgot to do that on this blade and there are those nasty little lines. Have no fear, @Gary Mulkey showed how to eliminate them after the fact through normalizing. So I took Gary's method, added a little Hancock, and put my own twist on it. I sprayed the blade with graphite, wrapped it up in tissue paper and stainless steel foil. Then I stuck it in the oven at 1350 for an hour. No more lines.
  3. Thomas, First of all, what Geoff and Zeb said. Then there's this. Hammers are like wands in Harry Potter books. The smith doesn't choose them, the hammer chooses the smith. What I mean by that is that hammer choice ends up being a very personal thing. There are lots of different styles, weights, and purposes for this craft. Most of us experienced smiths have used literally dozens of hammers over the years and have a favorite one for most work and several specialized ones for different tasks. You can start out with a 2 or 3 pound double jack from Lowes, (you will certainly use it for a lot of stuff over the course of your career), but it will not serve you well for the specific requirements of bladesmithing. For that you will likely need a blacksmith's hammer of one sort or another. Try and find a local blacksmith's organization that has open forge events or other participatory meetings. At these you can often use a variety of hammers and anvils and find what "feels" best for you. You can also buy a bunch of hammers and test them yourself, but that gets expensive. My wife's favorite hammer is a Tom Clark and cost around $100 new when we got it. They are collector's items now and the value has probably tripled. My primary hammer is the 1Kg Swedish pattern by Peddinghaus, but not everyone likes this style. For a quick insight into how many different styles of hammers there are, and how expensive they can be, check out this site and this site. Don't get me started on a "good steel for beginners". Ask two blade makers the same question and you will get 3 answers and come out more confused than when you started. I'm one of those guys who will tell you that if you do not already have any forging experience, start with mild steel and Mark Aspery's books on blacksmith basics. Go make a hundred coat hooks and learn how to move steel before you ever try and make a knife. Welcome to the madness.
  4. Good trade! I find it reassuring that other artists also collect art. My wife and I often purchase/trade with other artists too.
  5. Edge is up in the close-up photo BTW. Thank you Sir Longmire. You are a gentleman and a scholar.
  6. So the client has picked a blade and handle style, so I'm ready to finish working the blade. I start with a design drawing. After cutting off the first 1" of the bar to use as a spacer, I can do the light forging to shape. This is one of those patterns that I do not like to do any serious forging to shape on, because it might disrupt the pattern significantly. Because I like using templates, I created a template for this blade from my design drawing. The arrow on the template indicates the spot where the dropped point intersects the straight spine. I will use this in the next few steps. There are two different ways I handle the tip/point. One is to just cut/grind the bar to profile shape and let the pattern terminate wherever it meets the profile curve. The other one is to shape the point so the pattern flows with the curve and terminates along the top edge of the dropped point. This requires removal of a portion of the bar. I lay the template on the bar and mark the location of the intersection (where the arrow is) on the bar. Now I rotate the template until the point meets the bottom corner, and the top of the template meets the mark on the bar. Scribe the curve of the dropped point and remove the excess. The straight edge of the bar is where the blade edge will be. This needs to get forged upward until the tip matches the template. Hammering is done on the anvil, with the blade edge up. I forge in the point, tang and start the choil until it matches the template, or is a little oversized.
  7. For knife sheaths, belts, etc., I submerge when everything is done.
  8. If I am dying a sheath all the same color, I do not apply the dye with a felt dauber. I pour the dye into a tray and submerge the sheath in the dye the same way Chuck Burrows did. It's only when I have multiple colors on a sheath that I apply using the daubers. In this case, I am intending there to be variations and crossover between the colors, so I do not mind the differences.
  9. There is that. Helping a local small business & all. The markup is probably equal to the shipping, more or less, but you certainly get it faster. I'm a little spoiled because Pieh Tool has a satellite store in Phoenix and the main store just an hour up the interstate.
  10. Let's see here. The Atlas weighs 65 pounds and has no horn, step or pritchel hole. So it is really a big chunk of steel with a Hardy hole for $295+ $18 shipping. The NC Tool's Knifemaker's anvil is $325 + Shipping, weighs 76 pounds, and has everything you need to do much more than a knife. The truth be told, I use the step, horn and pritchel fairly regularly in my knife making, so it's your choice. Me? I would spend the extra $ and buy something that will last a long time and allow me to grow and expand my skill set.
  11. Yes, unfortunately. At least in my experience.
  12. Make a sheath, and call it a knife.
  13. I have some progress shots on a 4-bar twist for a commission I'm working on. Surface ground after welding. Pattern reveal after a light etch.
  14. I have not had them do any custom stabilization. I have only purchased their pre-stabilized stock. I cannot remember anything I purchased from them failing my test. I have had other company's stabilized wood fail. I am curious about their stabilization services You probably don't know me as well as some of the other forumites, but I love to argue. I'm Sicilian, and arguing is just something we do to pass the time. So don't ever be afraid to get argumentative with me, just be prepared for the long haul if you do.
  15. You can build a really useful anvil base from a 2x10 or 2x12 board, and make it easy to move around as well. Cut the board up into equal length pieces at the right height and nail them together with a 1-1/2" offset. Connect a strap across the resulting spaces and you have a hammer/tong holder. Now recess a space in the top to fit the anvil and caulk it down.
  16. There is always another knife.
  17. He's using elevator cable, but you could also use twisted bars. The video also plugs one of our other makers.
  18. Well now. This is taking a serious turn.
  19. call it done and make that sheath?
  20. While I generally trust K&G to stabilize properly, I still always test any "stabilized" wood I purchase. Fill a small pail with water and drop the wood in. If it sinks, it's stabilized. If it floats, it isn't stabilized all the way through. This becomes less important, if you use the whole piece and only grind into the surface area. If you cut that block into scales, the unstabilized center becomes exposed.
  21. Look at oldworldanvils.com. they have a square anvil that makes a good Cutler's block. Good starter for the money.
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