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Joshua States

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Everything posted by Joshua States

  1. He doesn't need the fish mouth, he did the wraparound. Looks pretty good Jeremy. Now make a dagger out of it.
  2. @Garry Keown those are some nice looking sheaths. The subtle stamped border tooling is a very nice touch.
  3. Jake, I have been trying to send you a PM, but your account is not set up to receive messages.
  4. Gary, Thanks for chiming in. Your observations are always welcome and appreciated. I have been using the same fast quench Texaco something oil and process for years. Preheated oil to 120*F-130*F. I quench my 1095 at 1480*F and achieve a as-quenched hardness (tested with chisels) of 64+ HRC. Here is my anti-scale application and a post-quench photo of other 1095 blades.
  5. I just found this thread today and spent my after-breakfast time with a cat on my lap, eyes glued to the screen. What a fantastic journey, thanks for sharing it with us.
  6. Just for the record, I told Kevin about your theory and he said "Yes that is very possible. Finer grain = faster quench requirements in simple steels." So, I think it's fair to say that Kevin likes your answer too! There was a fir bit of grinding post HT and yes I used my latex based, white, anti scale secret formula. The clouds only started to show up at 400 Grit hand finishing and they haven't disappeared even when I go back to 320. I'm taking it back to the grinder to see if I can grind through it. If yes, it's decarb. If no, it auto-hamon. My money is on the latter.
  7. So the blade for the knife with that finial is W2 and has a pretty good looking Hamon, but a small void appeared in the etch. I was trying to sand it out but no dice. So that one is trash. I may make another blade, but it won't be W2. Probably O1 I can feel the hand of Hancock reaching out to me and making me finish that dagger. It was his idea to put a dagger in this set. So the dagger is back online. I spent about a half hour each of the last two evenings milling the slot for the guard. Pics later.
  8. That looks like a successful experiment. Only one test left to do and that requires you to go fishing......
  9. Huh. Kevin Cashen told me it's just decarb. Go figure. I'm used to getting all the scientific gobbledygook from Kevin and he pastes me with a simple answer. Alan on the other hand......I like this answer much better!
  10. No, I did not clay the blade. It is about .200" (5,3 mm) at the thickest part of the spine, and wasn't much thicker in the quench. Fast oil, quenching at 1485*F. tempered at 450/475*F
  11. I recently had a weirdness appear in a 1095 blade that I can only describe as "clouds". They started to appear around 400 grit and will not go away. I even went back to 320 and they just keep developing. So my hive-brothers, anyone ever have this happen?
  12. I'm not even going to watch that video. The whole premise of when talking about 1095 and 5160 is bunk. The fact that he is only getting RC 58 and 57 definitely shows he doesn't know jack diddly about quenching these steels. I routinely get RC 63 or better out of the quench on my 1095 and I finish my quench in room temp water. (also do this on W2 and O1 and hit 65 RC or better) Sometimes (when I remember) I also quench in water between tempering cycles. My blades also sit on a rack until my oven cools down to below 300*F before I temper. That's a few hours of sitting around.
  13. I know I'm a little late to this party, but O1 is my preferred blade steel and I wanted to share a few things with you. Forging: O1 likes to be forged hot, really hot, like 1900*F hot. Quenching: Definitely do the soak at critical heat. For a small knife like the one above 10-15 minutes is probably adequate. For thicker sections, go for 30 minutes. Tempering: If you are using an electric kitchen oven for your tempering, buy two oven thermometers and adjust for the average. Kitchen ovens are not anywhere near as stable as a real HT oven and they do develop hot/cold spots. Get a metal baking tray and fill it with sand. Place the blade in the sand and completely cover it. Put it in the oven cold and bring it up to heat. This provides a very stable thermal envelope around the blade and an even heat. As-quenched hardness in O-1 can reach 65 HRC and it takes a bit of heat to bring it down below 60. I temper my O1 at 450 for an hour and 475 for an hour and most of my blades are still around 59-60 HRC. I would not even consider trying to bend a heat treated piece of O1 unless it had been tempered around 600*F for two hours. There's a page about O1 on Kevin Cashen's website (there's a page about a lot of steels on his website) Do a Google search for "Kevin Cashen O1" it should pop right up.
  14. There is a pinned topic in Hot Work that you should read
  15. Does the client have a drawing of what he wants? If so, take the drawing and a piece of tracing paper. Transfer the drawing to the tracing paper. Now melt some candle wax on the blade (make it much bigger than the drawing) and lay the tracing over it taping it down. Using your scribe (or a sharp pointy stick) run over the drawing to create the same design in the wax. Cut away the lines with a razor blade or Exacto knife. Get right down to clean steel. Take some acid (ferric chloride or muriatic works well, but lemon juice will work given enough time) and using a small eye dropper, put the acid on the wax. Leave it sit for 10-15 minutes. Dab with a paper towel to remove the acid and rinse with Windex or clean water. You should see black lines in the grooves you cut. You can clean these back to shiny with some metal polish or leave it black. I suggest practicing on a scrap piece of the same blade steel to get your soak time right.
  16. Message sent. For anyone else that is interested: Hightemptools@att.net <Hightemptools@att.net>;
  17. I once had a client who was a professional statistical mathematician. (and a very wealthy one at that) In a conversation he found out that I was a musician, had attended Berklee, and did woodworking, leather work, etc. He said to me "You aren't an artist. You're an engineer." I looked him straight in the eye and said "Engineering is an art. The medium is mathematics." He conceded the discussion.
  18. Hammer & Tongs.....good. Light? uhhhh Well then again who am I to talk? I'm drinking NA
  19. Great mother of monsters, that is out of the park spectacular. That watery steel, the chape, the butt cap, the whole freaking thing is just a total dish of eye candy. I wish I could like it more than once. Yeah, it's not fair only showing us one side of everything! Well, as they say in show biz, leave them wanting more!
  20. Good plan. If anyone ever took that apart, it would probably not end well......
  21. That looks loads better Alex. I didn't keep you honest, you did that yourself. The tip is slightly off, but you can get that with the final hand sanding.
  22. I have tried this overlay/weld method without much success. I sincerely hope you have better luck than I did. I have often pondered fluting on scales with a frame handle, but haven't tried it yet, and I doubt I would have had the foresight to flute before shaping & fitting. Sending positive energy your way Gary. This is looking like a great project!
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