Joshua States

A beautiful ceation Mr. Kelso. I have often considered a Mokume blade, but never did because I didn't know what meterials to use. What combo is this?

Here is the best advice I can give you. Make a knife. Nothing fancy. Just a 4 inch dropped point hunter with a bird's head handle. Make it the best knife you can. Post it up here for critiques and advice. Take notes and follow that advice. Lather, rinse. repeat.

The biggest difference between a master and a novice is the master has failed more times than the novice has even tried

The lastest posts included a very rare find. They found a 3-bladed arrowhad. I'm hoping they post some still photos. All they have now is a short video on FB Facebook

I got to see a receation of the Mästermyr chest at the ABANA conference in Salt Lake City back in 2016. It's an amazing collection of tools. If I remember correctly, there is a small stump anvil in there the size of a Dixie cup.

The likes are certainly something we all want, especially from other makers. For me, I long fo the discussion, the verbal feedback, the questions and comments that kindle new ideas. Yeah that too. I have always made stuff and worked creatively in one medium or another. Knife/blade making uses so many media and techniques, I find it difficult to think of anything that compares. Nice! A post vice is extremely useful. It looks like it's missing part of the leg though.

Opportunity knocks......

It's called a KSO. I don't mean that in a bad way. We all made these in the beginning, and we made plenty of them. The upswept blade is reminiscent of some butcher knives I have seen. The way I avoid this is to start with thicker stock than I want to finish with. As the bevel is forged in, the length grows and the tip starts to rise. I then forge the spine toward the point, making the spine thinner and the blade longer. This pushes the point back down. I forge by switching from bevel to spine until I have the blade length and width I desire. You could take that blob off the heel of the handle and grind a little more to develop a bird head there. This would push that pin hole more toward the center, reduce the handle length to a manageable size, and not risk having a large piece of handle without any mechanical connection. Honestly, I don't know why we all start with full-tang handles. The prevailing myth is that they are easier than partial tangs and they aren't.

I have one that is currently forged and rough ground, waiting for HT. I really should finish that someday.... How thick did you make yours at the spine?

I am immediately reminded of "The cliffs of Insanity!". Great pics Charles.

Forgive me Earthman, I have been asleep for the last 8 million years and know little of these surf punk bands and barbers named Floyd of which you speak....... Most of the two decades between 1967-1987 are a fuzzy blur caused by the trendy chemical amusement aids of the times. Nice looking lake, and yes, getting out there is often a much needed venture.

That grip is a total knockout!

Stop slacking........ You are killing it man

Aesthetically speacking, I think the herringbone twisted core with crushed W's on the edge bars would look best.

Zeb! I am so happy to see that the rumors of your quitting the bladesmith game were largely exagerated. Good to see you back at the anvil. You still got it man.

Spectacular work Geoff.

That's a nice horn in the background on the table. Where did you get that?

I typically bronze braze my tang extensions or threaded rods for take-down handles. It's never under much stress to start with and bronze brazing is vey strong. If you brazed an 1/8" rod on there that would make a peened rivet about twice the diameter on the pomell cap.

I'm wondering if it's the paint or the school you prefer.........

Another beutiful creation sir!

Really nice job on that desk @Don Abbott I had a desk that that all through elementary school, except the ones we used, had an inkwell in the upper righthand corner. Yes, I am that old!

That's a spectacular piece J.

A little late to this one, but another option is to braze a piece of brass or bronze rod on there. Then when you peen it against the wrought iron cap, you will have this little gold colored florette in the center of that wrought. You could even use a center punch or a nail set and dimple the brass/bronze and make it textured.

Some of the wood carver groups I frequent said that really tight grained wood is what you want. They suggested fruit woods.

I finished putting my cucible foge togethe and poued the efactory. Built in an old BBQ size propane bottle. Maybe in a week or two I will get the burner fired up.