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Joshua States

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Everything posted by Joshua States

  1. Now I'm laughing.... There are some examples of this in the historical record. Alan and I have had a chuckle over some of the examples in books where we swear the smith forgot which side of the bar was what.
  2. If you have a controlled oven, follow these instructions: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Y8X4r3wskCYO_DYxSGIQ8WmWT0Wf-T2v/view?usp=share_link If you are doing the hardening in the forge, follow this method: https://youtu.be/ZZhx_Rr2Fzk
  3. This actually looks like a pretty good deal. https://www.amazon.com/Volcano-Hero-Stainless-Professionals-Blacksmith/dp/B091SFMK9C/ref=asc_df_B091SFMK9C/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=507696663523&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10140955940773099120&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029978&hvtargid=pla-1264660209501&psc=1
  4. I went kind of silly and simple this year.
  5. Jerrod has the truth here. Ask yourself a question: What do you see yourself making in this forge as you learn? The truth is you will probably start off as many of us did, making blades between 4-8 inches long. Quite frankly a 16" deep forge is way more than you need for this. My big forge is only 16 inches deep and the only reasons I have a forge that big is for working big hunks of steel into long bars. For regular forging, I use my wife's primary forge which is the NC tools whisper Daddy. You only need to heat up a small section of the blade at a time to forge it to shape. There's really no benefit, and some detriment, to heating up areas of the steel that you won't be hammering on. In general, a smaller forge will use less fuel, concentrate the heat where you want it, and help you forge easier and learn faster.
  6. Amateur Archaeologist in Switzerland Unearths 2,000-Year-Old Roman Dagger | Smart News| Smithsonian Magazine
  7. What a terrific trip through time and a family history tied to it to boot. Thanks for the tour Garry.
  8. IMNSHO, most North American antler isn't worth the trouble to put on a knife handle. Some nice burl wood however, would be worth everything you do. If you aren't opposed to some grinding, I would take a bit off the bottom of that ricasso and bevel that clip into a proper point.
  9. That's an incredible reference! Thanks Jake
  10. My thoughts exactly. That flatened oval indexes well and is a much more secure grip. Once again, this is a beauty. I really like that suspension wrap as well.
  11. Got back to this and another project and am working them in tandem. The blade survived the quench (short video) and I moved on to straightening and finish grinding. After the tempering at 550F Then I decided to go with bronze hardware and I cast a few plates. A bit of saw cutting and file work. Then I hot-fit the guard. This is the blade at 220 grit with a full convex grind.
  12. Well, this has been sitting on the bench craving some attention for a while. Every attempt I have made at forging the ring hilt out of a single piece has produced more Damascus scap than I care to acknowledge. That will now have to wait until I get more steel to make new billets. In the meanwhile, I have redesigned the whole thing around the blade. It is now a frame handle design. I may still try and put a ring on the guard or attach a Nagel sort of thing following the coffin shape motif. We will see how that works out. Here is the new handle design.
  13. Nice work. The trick to getting that leather seam to disappear is to skive it so thin the edge gets ragged rather than staying straight. Then wet it and tie it with string.
  14. Now you just have to keep track of the box!
  15. I was actually really surprised at how narrow (from side to side) the fittings on the Nijmegen are. The shape is a teardrop with a bit of flat acoss the top. This is more prominent on the bolster (to match the wide spine of the blade) than on the pommel cap. As Peter Johnsson once told me, these are shaped like a narrow axe handle. Did you hot-fit the bolster/guard?
  16. Another one for the inspiration folder..... Question, is the handle cross section round, or more oval?
  17. 1. Jaron Martindale 2. Aiden Carley-Clopton 3. Brian Dougherty 4. Doug Webster 5. Joshua States Robert D hasn't been on the forum in about 6 weeks. I assume he's out
  18. Yeah, my thought exactly. I talked with Jeff about this and got his feedback. I must admit that Tim Mitchell and Peter Swarz-Burt advised me against using the ribbon burner, but being as they had never tried it and were basing their opinions on a gut feeling rather than empirical evidence, this stubborn little pig had to at least try it. I think I'm getting too much backpressure and not enough fuel in the combustion chamber. I have taken the other small ribbon burner and chipped out everything between the small holes and created a flared burner end from the castable and some Satanite. I will remove the ribbon and replace it with the new burner. Stay tuned, I'm heading back to my place of refuge for a few days. I'll run another test next week sometime.
  19. The full burner, with mixing pipe, propane inlet, and blower attachment looks like this. There is a gate valve just off the right side of the photo. This controls the air blast.
  20. The initial one (shown) is a small ribbon burner. The one next to the dolly wheel.
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