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Joshua States

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Everything posted by Joshua States

  1. I have a limited supply of Type N Temp probes by Omega for sale. These are the probes: https://www.omega.com/en-us/temperature-measurement/temperature-probes/probes-with-integral-connectors/kqxl-nqxl/p/NQXL-116U-18 The specs say " For Use Up to 1335°C (2440°F)", but the rated process max temp is 1900°F, so they can get a little wonky above 1900. These are new and in the original packaging. The probe is .062" diameter and 18" long. They come with the 2-piece molded connectors and associated connection devices. They do not come with a lead wire or temp readout/controller. The typical wire lead is 24 ga. You take the two screws out of the molded connector and remove the cover. Attach the leads through the insulated ring and replace the cover. Attach the other ends of the leads to the readout/controller terminals. And plug in the readout/controller. These cost $46.69 $56.03 + shipping from Omega. After checking postage rates for first class mail, I reduced the prices a little. I'm selling for $35 $30 each including shipping CONUS. Three or more for $30 $25 each including shipping. PM me for purchase details.
  2. Yes. There are other manufacturers of similar products with differing grade levels. I got the Ove Gloves and think they work really well. I was using them for Damascus making and found them much easier to use and better protection than the heavy leather gloves.
  3. Nice work Bjorn. What's the blade steel?
  4. If you want to add photos to a post, you have to edit the post. Click those three dots in the upper right corner of the post and choose edit from the drop-down menu. You should then see a blue bar across the bottom of the post where you can drag and drop photos into the post.
  5. These can also be found in Ace Hardware and at other online sellers. I found them much more heat resistant than the heavy leather welder's gloves I had been using and the flexibility gave me a lot more dexterity when handling tongs and billet handles. I didn't notice that even when I held my hand in the dragon's breath. One thing I can say is there are different grades of these types of gloves out there. You may have tried a lesser grade.
  6. I think that's a stylistic judgement call and not a hard rule. In any case, there's probably enough tang there to create that step with a little grindersmithing.
  7. well, for doing something so wrong, I think you did something right, because that does look pretty cool.
  8. This reads like a great book introduction......just sayin'
  9. Some pretty cool stuff happening around here
  10. Beautiful area. A little slice of paradise right there.
  11. The motion is on the floor and I will second.
  12. I had to read several pages of this to catch up. It made for a very relaxing and enjoyable after-lunch activity. What a great thread. Persistance with files is the definition of skill.
  13. Yep. That's another version of accordion cutting that works well. Thanks for adding that.
  14. I will never get over how cool and unique your random patterns are! That's lovely.
  15. That one came out great. You should be very proud of that one. When I took a class on the leather wrapped handle, we were told the top edge was not made straight. It was purposely jagged and very thin. Adding the dye makes it disappear.
  16. Frank Christensen turned me on to these at a demo in Camp Verde a while back and I bought a pair of them. I finally got some forge time and tried them out. Far better than heavy leather gloves. Highly recommendable.
  17. I took some time on Wednesday for some forge therapy and added a few buttons and folds for more consolidation. Here is the process I developed. Cut the bar in preparation for folding and place a button on the bar. When it starts to melt, remove from the fire, smear with a piece of cold mild, and fold. Weld it. Draw out, and repeat as desired. I think I've added about 3 or 4 more buttons.. I decided to try a little manipulation and forged it on the bias. Then I reflattend it and let it cool. I'll make something out of this. It's about 1.25" by 0.5" by 4,25"
  18. Time for a little thread necromancy. Life has been really hectic lately and there hasn't been much shop time other than this complex commission I've been working on. Work has been rediculously crazy and I needed some forge therapy. So, I grabbed a hunk of this and went to town. The starting hunk. This has asome voids and pockets that need to be closed up with forge welding. It gets drawn out into a bar about 1 inch thick and 1.5 inches wide. This I hot cut and fold in three. Weld, draw out and normalize. Then cut into 4 pieces, stack and repeat. The resultant bar gets folded once more for good measure (3 times is the charm here) and the final bar measures about 7" by 3/4" by 1.5"
  19. Follow Jeroen's advice on profile and typology. I'm no expert on the form, but my memory is these are fairly narrow fullers. My own experience has been to grind fullers in after full profile and HT. I have done this with a rotary tool and a little guide I rigged up. You can see the technique here on page 2.
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