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Joshua States

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Everything posted by Joshua States

  1. The marginalia killer rabbit! It can leap....look at the bones!
  2. Could you possibly be any further away from me?
  3. Today I took another shot at forging a ring guard out of a single piece of 416 SS. This has been kicking my butt. However, those bull point thingys Alan suggested a while back make excellent mandrels. Rounding the hole on the mandrel. Normalizing after forging The hole is about 7/8"+ in diameter and the ring is 5/16". 3/16" to 1/4" thick. The guard plate is about 3/8" thick. Lots of shaping to do still.
  4. It has spirit. Charge more for it. A 20ft by 8 ft storage container is about $3K Please do it looks great!
  5. Really nice job. Great WIp thread. Thanks for taking us along on the journey
  6. Yeah, you will find that's not an easily solved problem. Things end up stuffed into a corner and you have to dig them out when you need them. At least, that's how I handle it.......
  7. That rabbit's a killer! It can leap...look at the bones! I don't know how I missed this earlier. That's a really nice piece of work mate.
  8. Two more arrows. "One of the arrows was still stuck in the ice and we had to melt it out carefully, using lukewarm water. The preservation of this 1500-year-old arrow is just awesome! Arrowhead, sinew, shaft, fletching – it’s all there. This arrow will be a prime target for our on-going arrow research program. Finds of steering feathers are very rare (4/6)" Note the twine or wrapped cordage is either braided or twisted. "Julian holds one of the other well-preserved arrows found on the site during our 2019 fieldwork. The arrowhead is of a rare type, having a socket instead of the usual tang. It dates to c. AD 600. Most of the arrows are remarkably well-preserved compared to other sites. This may be caused by the ice being “calmer” here (5/6)"
  9. Another one from today's posts. "We also found an arrow with an antler arrowhead during our 2019 fieldwork. The arrowhead is quite similar in shape to iron arrowheads from AD 300 onwards. Perhaps the arrow dates to the centuries preceding this date. Based on observations in 2013 and 2019, the ice patch retreated 100 m in the front during these six years. So far, we have only been able to survey a small part of this newly exposed foreland. We plan to return to the site with a proper large-scale systematic survey. The eight arrows recovered from the site, with only limited survey, tell us that there are bound to be more arrows here waiting to be discovered. There was very little snow this winter in the area where the site is located, so conditions for ice melt and archaeological survey may become excellent this autumn. As always, summer temperatures will decide. Fingers crossed – though we are not sure whether this is for a chilly or a warm summer, the classical dilemma of glacial archaeology… (6/6)"
  10. If you do try it, please post your results and anything you find out along the way. I for one, would be very interested in seeing what results other smiths have with this technique. As for forging the cast, I asked Ray and a couple other guys about that big hunk and how to forge it. Ray's advice: Soak it at about 1250-1300F for about an hour. Take it up to 1600F and cut it into useable chunks. Forge in really short sessions at about 1600-1900F moving small amounts at a time. Flatten, hot cut, stack and weld. lather rinse repeat. Mostly I think this is just shedding carbon until it gets into the forgeable range. Supposedly, the third stack is when it starts to behave well.
  11. Nice work. What steels are you using? Are they all 154CM?
  12. I made the first set I had way back in the early days. I made mine from two pieces of precision ground O1. Superglue them together with the edges flush, and drill for the right thread tap. Take them apart and oversize one piece's holes to just fit the bolts. Harden and temper back at about 300*F. That's been hard enough to stand up to a wide variety of tasks over the years and I still use it for......filework! (even though I do have a carbide face set)
  13. For some reason, I cannot see the first photo
  14. I saw this on your channel earlier. These are also great tools to use at the anvil with a pritchel hole. They hold a piece down so you can use two hand tools on it.
  15. I figured you knew about this process, or at least had a version of it. I might need to pick your brain a little at some point when I get around to trying to forge this thing out with the yellow end. This thing weighs 22 pounds and is 2.7% C. Ray calls it Tamahagane, but it's more like cast iron. He and a couple other smiths I know have forged this stuff out into blades with spectacular results. I don't know why I'm such a sucker for big, ugly, hunks of steel.
  16. This sand was from New mexico, but probably the same trace elements for the most part. I also brought some of my Arizona sand and we did a melt or two with that. The buttons had bright yellow across the top surface and a yellow star in the bottom. (sorry, no pic) Weirdness, but it might have been some gold, who knows? Speaking of which, there was a demo on Sunday with a fellow who's name I forget......anyway, he's a jeweler and engraver by trade. He turned what looked like clumps of dirt into......something extremely valuable. The dirt This is three coffee filters with "stuff" in them Make nice freshly seasoned crucible. Throw the whole mess in there and get it nice and hot. There's a little puddle of molten metal there. When it cools, it's 24K gold. About 2 ounces of it. The story behind this is he cleaned off his workbench. After collecting all the debris, he started mixing it with a variety of acidic chemicals that can kill you. After a bit he had an opaque black sludge in the bottom of a beaker. This was drained through the coffee filters and produced the little brown clumps in the first two photos. He burned the coffee filters too.
  17. Just another post on the Book of Faces today. A complete arrow.
  18. Beautiful Richard. Elvenesque
  19. The pour/ingot thingy is allowed to cool. The flux-glass is broken off leaving behind a small button of high C cast iron (?) somewhere in the 4-5% range according to Frank. This is then laid on the end of a piece of low C wrought iron and put into the forge. It melts rather quickly. You have to be very careful removing the piece so as not to spill the liquid. You then smear the button across the surface of the iron. It spreads like butter on hot toast. I figured out after a few tries, that I could see a point where the bead was still stable but held together mostly by the oxide layer on the surface. It was spreadable, but not runny. This is welded to the iron in one or two short heats. The bar is then folded onto itself with the button in the middle and forged out in length. The process then repeats itself. My first attempt on Saturday was a miserable failure. I didn't have the "eye" for the melting point dialed in. I lost a lot of material and the starting iron was a very thin bar and it burned up pretty quickly. I went home Saturday and took a piece of wagon rim wrought I had and forged it into a bar about 1/4" thick and 1.25" wide (the door on Frank's forge was very narrow). The second day was other people melting some sand to make buttons and I did a little forging on my new bar. I came home with several more buttons and a billet with three buttons folded into it. This is a knife that Frank has made from this process. He says it's the product of about 9 buttons folded into a fairly small piece of wrought.
  20. I went to a hammer-in at Ray Rybar's this past weekend and worked a process with Frank Christensen. It was something I had never seen or done before and I don't know what you would call it. I was really busy working, and the process moves very fast once the initial melt is complete, so the pics are few and far between. I offered to help Frank to learn what he was doing and that turned into Frank talking and me doing. The idea was to show how someone who had no experience with the process could learn it quickly. It starts with a #4 graphite-clay crucible and some black sand. #4 crucible. Frank has had some really nice blue colors coming out of his sand recentlt. You can see some of the remnant flux on this crucible. The flux he uses is this stuff. We mix 4 tablespoons of sand and 3 tablespoons of flux together in the bottom of the crucible, this is then covered with a layer of flux and a lid (small gap) and put into the furnace/forge thingy for about an hour. ~45 minutes after the crucible comes up to temp/color. Mixture of sand & flux After the set time, the crucible is removed, and the contents poured into a small mold. It can be anything really. We set up a rectangle using a few pieces of steel and a tray.
  21. Absolutely! Another fine piece.
  22. Looks great Jake. How is that Bubinga to carve?
  23. I am trying to visualize the process of inserting a straight tang through a block of wood, and then curling the tang end around a leather strap so that the ring formed is inset into the butt of the handle. There must have been a notch in the handle heel. The tang end is then partially hammered into the loop. Insert the leather through the hole and close the loop down into the notch. Brilliant!
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