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MarkH

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About MarkH

  • Birthday 09/18/1993

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Medford, Oregon
  • Interests
    Swords and sword fighting, history and culture, auto racing and modifying, art, music, and brewing.
  1. Thanks! I seriously can't thank you enough for all the insight. I guess for my first serious build up of a knife, i'm not off to a horrible start. Guess I gotta watch my steel a bit more closely. Getting the guard fitted up today! and probably the handle material rough out.
  2. Well I finally tried the heat treat! I think it went quite a bit better. Looking over the blade, i haven't found any cracks, and i dont have as much of the bubbly scale. I still think I got it a bit too hot though. There is a little bit of warping at the tip but so far I feel good about it. Most of you temper the knives around 400 Fahrenheit correct? At least when starting out? I'll have the final bevels ground and sanded down by this weekend. Then onto the guard and handle!
  3. And back to the primary bevels! The shape came out a bit better on this one I think. The spine could have been a bit taller. It looks pretty straight. Angle grinders seem to be making quick work, and truing up with the belt helps. Heat treating tomorrow! I'm also ecstatic to have my tongs in. Do a lot of you build your own tools?
  4. End of the day got me back to shape. Picking up some oil today and doing the initial grinding. And researching more ways to tell when I've hit heat treat temp. Also found some great walnut for the handle. Scored some pattern welded medallions I can use for furniture as well.
  5. Well here we go again!
  6. Thanks, that probably helped me more than I care to find out. being that heavy metal is something i would rather listen to than breathe.
  7. Thanks for the input! I hadn't known about that phase change. This was a big eye opener for me. I have a lot of Linseed oil about that I should probably use. Linseed oil will work, right? I finally remembered to take a picture of the sketch. .
  8. It's been awhile since I've been able to add much here, but i finally got a forge up and running at my shop! A little 2 burner propane for now, but I'm sure it will expand soon. Anyways, I've had it up for a few weeks and everything I have worked on has barely gotten any pictures taken. I figured this project would be a good one to start on. I've wanted to make a sgian dubh for quite sometime, so I got a quick sketch up and went to town shaping a big scrap piece of 5160 from my work. More than enough steel to make something sizable when I started out. I hadn't tried anything on this scale yet, and was chomping at the bit to get it into shape. That was my downfall from the start. Lots of testing and figuring out what methods were working for me. I was able to procure a decent variety of hammers thankfully. now to get some decent tongs....The form had emerge much larger than I anticipated. I was very pleased with the shape. I had rushed over to our belt sander to get the bevels on and get that nice crisp spine. The shape had come out nicely, but the first signs of critical failure had shown up in the process. What to do but modify to fit? After getting a nice chunk taken out around the crack, I proceeded to get it warmed up for heat treat. Definitely should have followed guidelines for quenching 5160. I pretty sure a water quench was the last straw.It had come out with a nasty curve. i normalized and straightened it out, and tried again. This second time was more successful, although futile. my quick grind afterwords showed tons of gnarly cracks. I was just hoping itd stay together long enough for me to practice finish work. Alas, it was not to be. in the straightening during temper, the cracks gave way and I had a broken blade. I'll put a bit more work into it, and maybe turn it into something useful someday, buit for now its quittin' time till tomorrow.
  9. Hello, It's been awhile since I've been active on here but the projects never stop. Here is my latest work in progress. I based the design off of an Oakeshott Type Xa arming sword, but made it a hand and a half with a waisted grip. This is quick and dirty work and by no means the final product. I forgot to snap pictures of the progress as I went sadly. This one started out as a sparring sword but quickly changed to being sharp once I started getting a feel for for how it was shaping up. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_gQZLoSeUnZRDBlRjRqMEFNek0/preview The blade is about 28" long and over 2" at the base. The guard is 10" wide, however its gonna get shortened up I think. I hadn't done large long fullers before on a blade, so this was a test on an unproven method. To achieve the fuller I had fixed the blade, unground, on a metal table with magnets; aligning the center about 2" from the straight edge of the table. I made a guide from angle iron that I had fixed to an angle grinder, so that the disc was spinning perpendicular to the tabletop like a wheel. I used a flap disc which had a round edge. Then I would run the grinder up and down the blade. This method proved difficult as I had put it together rather crudely. It however worked in theory! I have a fuller that looks decent, however it could be much better. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_gQZLoSeUnZVXhiVXl2YVVaR0k/preview "https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_gQZLoSeUnZbExSbTIzR2IwREU/preview My method of grinding in the bevels starts with 5160 .21" stock that's cut to profile with a waterjet. Not my preferred method but until I get the forge built I have to use my company's production methods. I then use an angle grinder and a flap disc to put in bevels. I definitely fell short here. I ground too much in some spots and ate away chunks from my profile which I had to compensate for. Bad Mark. but i came out with a nice sharp profile and good angles for edges. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_gQZLoSeUnZRG5oTlRxZ0t4RHc/preview Once I had this ground out I did a little bit of straightening with some heat, correction, and quenching. this went well I think. The stock is pre-hardened before its cut to profile, so we do tempering and straightening in house. After this, I started on sanding, which I have much more to do. So far this is kind of a rough 220 grit. should be a lot more diligent in the polishing department. From there I welded up this guard from mild steel pieces i had cut to shape. This will get more bevels and contours on monday. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_gQZLoSeUnZdWI5MXp0bU5BbjQ/preview The handle is made from 2 pieces of red oak with channels routered into them. I then spun the the shape on a lathe. This will get cording and leather wrap. The pommel is more of a place holder at this point, it's not accurate I don't think, however the weight is right where I want it. I'll be making a disk pommel with a threaded pin insert to attach to the threaded tang later on. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_gQZLoSeUnZOE9qRVZyN1Vmc2M/preview What do you guys think so far?
  10. It's been a while since I've been able to work on personal blades. Since I finally caught a break after the Christmas rush, I decided to put together a few pieces I've had to shelf. This one was made from a guard i used to experiment with TIG welding, so it's a bit rough. The handle was put together from some handle stock that shifted in the gluing process, but worked well for this project. The pommel was from our standard turned stock, sadly not handmade in house. However the blade is made from a scrap of 5160 that was getting kicked around for awhile. It's not perfect, but it seemed like a good exercise so I can finally finish that big Fantasy Longsword. Blade length is 30" from shoulder to tip. It has 8" tang. Blade weight is 14oz. Guard is 9" from the quillion tips. Altogether its 38" tip to pommel, and 2lbs 5.2oz in total weight. Balance falls a half inch in front of the guard. This was inspired by visualizing a nautical themed sidesword from the 15th century. It is somewhat thrown together and will undergo more finishing. For now the blade handles like a short and stout rapier, but still retains a very cut happy characteristic. I imagine it to be the dueling side arm of a mercenary. Robust and useful for a many fights. (crumby pictures, new ones soon)
  11. The guard material is a mild steel. Not sure of its exact composition. It cleans up really easy actually.
  12. So only got one more face done today, but I did find a sword shaped hunk steel that's relatively close to my design, so i did a quick mock up just to get some things in perspective. This sword is 3 inches shy of the 36" I am shooting for. the ruler at the bottom is extending 10 inches from the guard, about the length of the handle and pommel. Back to working on the guard this weekend.
  13. I understand that searching is pretty paramount. Looking through some of the examples from quick searches gave me some ideas. I was hoping some one might have some particularly insightful knowledge on the period. I appreciate you pointing me in a good direction though. I'm sure some more in depth research is necessary. I hadn't explored the roman influence quite yet, but thank you for the connection.
  14. Hello, I heard the fiery beards have a bit of a knack for the Celtic culture and their sharp pointy things. I've been trying to find examples of swords around the finnian cycle of Irish folk lore. I have been guessing that cycle took place around the 4th century A.D. yes? More specifically I am looking into Diarmuid Ua'Duibhne's weapons, Beagalltach, Moralltach, gae buidhe, and gae dearg(spelling may be off) 2 swords and 2 spears. I know there isn't much to go buy in descriptions. I do want to find out what some key features of swords from that area and time looked like, and what styles there were. Might be asking a lot, but any input is greatly appreciated. Once I've gotten competent enough to pattern weld some I want to tackle all 4 weapons.
  15. Well so far so good. My process for building my fittings is based on my shops production system of construction. So its kind of a cheater method. The guard is water jet cut from an auto-cad file out of 3/8 and 1/4 inch stock. There are tabs which I will grind on and weld to, to create the guard that will fit snugly to the tang and shoulders. Once I got it all welded and added filling material to smooth out some lines, the task of grinding in the contours and scalloping starts. I'm using flap discs on angle grinders for most of the material removal, and using a pneumatic dye grinder with an abrasive fiber pad to clean up the surface and lines. I use a sanding disc on the same dye grinder to cut in the deep lines. It's quick going but I only had time for one face. Blade and pommel will be here next week, then I'll be able to make good time on this. Now what to engrave...... I understand the photos aren't in the correct format(too big) I'll have them changed shortly.
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