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Everything posted by RobertMunford

  1. At least you didn't wrinkle your nose at it. LOL I have tried free hand and as you can see from the blade in the pic my lines leave something to be desired, especially on long blades. I will continue to try honing my skills on shorter and thinner blades. In the mean time this is the best of all the jigs that can be made without a mill and lathe that I have found.
  2. I do not know if this is the correct place to put this or if it has been discussed here before, but here goes. Alan if this is the wrong place put it where it belongs please, of if it can not be posted at all delete if need be. I have tried to grind blades free hand and have ruined more than I have finished. Granted that is not a whole lot but I just can not seem to get the hang of it. I have made a couple of simple ones and they are a pain in the a** so have thrown them away. I used this one before painting it and found it very simple to use, and I am able to change sides of grinding very quickly with repeatable results. I did not engineer this at all, Mr. Alexander Bol posted the video and plans on You Tube. He states in the video that all welcome to use his idea as long as no one sells them. He also is selling them already made for those that have the where withal to buy or the inclination not to make. LOL Being as I am technically challenged I do not know how to copy a link to this so best I can say is go to You Tube web sight search for Alexander Bol and in the results you will see the video. This video by Alexander Bol on how to make and use a grinding jig is very comprehensive. I have spent the last couple of days, about 6 hours total making one. I made it using some 3/8 in thick aluminum, a couple of hinges, a turn buckle and various nuts and bolts. I used only a jig saw, drill press/drill, hack saw, my home made 2x72 grinder, files, and my welder. I used the welder to make a couple of brackets to hold the turn buckle. The brackets could have been made from angle brackets but I went the hard way. LOL A couple of things that I am going to add are handles to hold on to while moving the blade across the grinder. I am also going to buy a cheap white plastic cutting board from Wal Mart and put it on the bottom of the base plate. It will make it easier to move on my grinder table. Adjusting bevel angle is very easy, and the way the blade it held it makes it very easy to change sides and maintain same angle. I am including some pictures of the one I made.
  3. Alan thanks got just the thing. bought some 11/2 x 21/2 3/16 wall tubing the other day. the 6' pieces were 5 dollars apiece. thanks again Robert aka bob
  4. Steve do you have a source where you can see how a muffle pipe is made? I want to make one. thank you in advance Robert aka bob
  5. ok getting it ready to harden. everyone keep your toes crossed. LOL got the propane forge working better so hopefully will have it go correctly. will give an update as soon as I find out good or bad. Robert aka bob
  6. Update since the last time on here I have found a 15 psi regulator to replace the 10 psi regulator on my propane forge. Geoff you were spot on when you said not enough gas flow. took the half brick out and run it for 15 minutes. not one single spit or sputter. thanks to everyone who responded to my questions. Robert aka bob
  7. thanks next time I will hang in shop. it is cold in there so thought the vermiculite was the way to go. well that is what I get for thinking. LOL what is they say "live and learn" and I learn something everyday. thanks again Jerrod Robert aka bob
  8. what the blade looks like after third heat for normalization. I cooled in vermiculite hope that was ok. going to look for all the nics that I missed and clean the blade next. then keeping my fingers crossed I am going to harden as you suggested.
  9. Thanks Alan you have answered my question well. I had an issue with it popping and sputtering at first but by raising the floor with a half brick it now seems to work well. I have done two normalizations on the blade that I asked about and today did a third. It seems to stay nice and smooth with very little scale. I have to keep it moving so there are no real hot spots developed. Going to finish sanding and cleaning it up and then the truth will be known. Did I do it correctly. LOL Thanks again Alan. Robert aka bob
  10. No sir Vern and Geoff above shudder and get the willies when they see it and I was wondering why. Thought maybe it was dangerous. Just asking as I am new and don't want to blow myself sky high. LOL I only use my propane forge for heat treating and normalization so I have never had much to do with one. Plan on staying with my coal for the heat and beat portion.
  11. Ok one more question. Willies with burner at 12 o clock position. Why? Dangerous?
  12. got some gas today. did a normalization on my blade. I took a short video of it roaring like it is supposed to. guess it was FM (frigging magic). LOL thanks to everyone who responded to my query. forgeburning.mp4
  13. thank you joel got somewhere to start now thanks again Robert aka bob
  14. I give up I have looked and looked and can't find the video I seen somewhere keeps an old mans shoulders arms from falling off, by moving the blade back and forth while you hold the sandpaper on it. I want to build on as Aurthor has come to visit and hasn't left. LOL I hate when I see something somewhere on the net and then cant find it again. Guess that is a sign of old age. LOL Thanks in advance Robert aka bob
  15. I go with what ever works best at the time. letting the smoke out or FM LOL Thanks Vern
  16. OK I run across what I think is a solution to my problem. Quite by accident I have to add. I was heating a blade and when I kept it up off of the floor about an inch the burner began to behave. So today I bought a half brick and put it in the forge. I did two heats of two different blades for normalization and it behaved. I don't know the reason that it began to work properly but it did. My uniformed opinion is it needed a little bit of back pressure. Other than that maybe it was the old FM working. I thank all for their opinions and suggestions but as the man said I would rather be lucky than good. LOL If someone knows reason why that narrowing of the forge height worked I would love to know. BTW I plan to use the propane forge only for heat treating and normalization as I can control the heat a little better. Maybe after I learn how to control my heat better with coal I will dismantle this gas hog. Thanks again everyone Robert aka bob
  17. wow sure like the way you did it from start to finish. thanks for all the pics and directions. gave me lots of ideas on how to make the sheath for the big camp knife that I am making. long ways away from the sheath though. keep it up the great work mason Robert aka bob
  18. OK what do you think 6 or 8 inches longer tube on burner, heat shield about 6 inches above top brick, or both. it would be ugly but if ugly works I don't care. lol btw haven't heard SWAG used in a long time.
  19. So here I am again hope y'all don't get tired of my questions. Searched high and low and probably in places that I shouldn't have and did not see the answer to my question anywhere. Sometimes my eyes cross and I don't see info in plain sight so don't yell to loud if I missed it lol I put together a simple propane forge out of fire bricks and a homemade burner. it is sitting under a lean to and has whatever breeze there is at the time blowing on it. it has a nice healthy roar to it for most of the time and seems to heat rather well. but every now and again it will stop roaring, flutter and pop softly while still burning and then start roaring again. anyone have any ideas. to much breeze blowing across it or ??? if it is a simple fix I am thinking about adding a second burner so can head longer objects more evenly. thank you all in advance. Robert aka bob
  20. Vern You just massively saved my A** Vern. I had already asked him if he wanted a hole for a lanyard, and he said yes. So now I will put one in before I do anymore to the blade, as it is still drillable. Thank You Vern Robert aka Bob
  21. Thank you Alan I think I over read and over thought, and over planed on the last one. I had never heard of what you suggested on the soft back draw using a plumber's torch. Sounds like the way to go. Will post more pics when completed. Thanks Again Alan Robert aka Bob
  22. I have been asked to make a heavy camp knife for a gentleman. I know the handle design is a little on the strange side but I have made a wooden mock up and he is thrilled with the size and weight of the blade. My problem is the two pictures are of my fourth attempt at making the blade. The first time I let my attention wander and burned the handle off, was going to punch holes in handle. The second time I got the blade so hard that as I was cleaning up my tools and shutting down forge when I dropped a 3 pound hammer on it the blade snapped in two. Third time I couldn't get it hard at all. So "HELP". I have learned all the foreign languages that I need for know. I have since built a propane forge in hopes of controlling the temperature a little better. I used a leaf spring for the blade and am assuming that I am working with 5160. Yeah yeah I know what assuming means. LOL This blade is going to be used to split kindling and chop with so it will be taking some abuse. My question is should I harden equally front to back and top to bottom, or do what I have heard called differential hardening. Next question "assuming" again that I successfully get the metal hardened I understand from all I have read that 2 one hour stints at 400 degrees does the best job of tempering. My question is, when cooling after the hour is up do you allow the blade to cool in the oven with the oven turned off or hanging at room temperature, or is a quench required? I would appreciate any an all comments, and if I ever get the knife completed I will post finished pictures of it. Don't anyone hold their breath though as it may take awhile. LOL Thanks in advance Robert
  23. Thank you Vern appreciate the very timely response. Have a Merry Christmas and a Very Prosperous New Year
  24. Ahhh thanks to everyone here I hit the jackpot here. a lot of the questions that I had about annealing, normalizing hardening, and tempering have been cleared up. but the one question that I have that has not been addressed in any thing I have read (and I have read until 1 or 2 in the morning several times ) has not been answered yet. and that question is do you let the metal cool slowly back to room temp after the tempering cycle, if it has been addressed somewhere then I missed it and I am sorry. I will put the blame on cancer treatment that I have received. LOL btw cancer free for 8 years as of August this year, and am now totally retarded or retired depending who you talk to.
  25. thanks for the posting and pics Alan I have some 5/8 O1 and was wondering what to do with it. going to try my hand at making a narrow thin boning knife. thanks again Alan
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