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Will Drake

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    Isle of Wight, VA

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  1. I made mine from parts I got off of Amazon. Switchable between AC and DC using a tapped transformer for either 6v or 12v output. If you are comfortable with electrical work I can post the scematic and parts list. Just keep in mind when you use a transformer to lower the voltage the amperage goes up, and when it comes to electricity it's the amperage that will do you in.
  2. When I looked at the picture I started seeing stuff that I know isn't there. So, if you happen to need a name for this I vote for " Rorschach Damascus".
  3. I made several kitchen knives as Christmas presents last year and I also made some scabbards so the recipients could keep them in a drawer or on the counter without having to worry about the blade being exposed. Unfortunately, the glues I chose to use (Titebond II and Loctite spray adhesive) ended up causing rust on the blade. I wasn't sure which it was until someone else posted a question about a making a similar scabbard in this sub-forum. After learning that Titebond II (and III as well) was the likely rusting culprit, I decided to make a new one for a knife I have kept in the house and have been using as a box cutter. First, because the knife needs one as it has been unceremoniously been subjected to storage in a makeshift sheath, and secondly because it would give me the chance to verify if the spray adhesive I had used originally had contributed to the rusting problem. First off I cut two 6 1/2 inch long pieces from 3" x 48" poplar board that was 1/4 inch thick. You can get it your local big box home improvement stores for less than $5. After tracing out the shape of the knife blade on the scabbard blanks I routed them out with a Dremel tool. My Dremel came with a routing attachment and I have used it far more than I thought I would. I set the depth of the dremel cutter to equal my blade width, the reason will be explained a little later in the WIP. After the hollow was routed I took a wood rasp and ramped the opening so that it would be almost twice the blade width. This helps get the blade in the scabbard without tearing at the felt. If you look closely at the picture you can see the slope of the opening. After testing the blade fit I moved on to gluing in the felt. For this I used the pieces you can get at Walmart for 23 cents. I cut out pieces that would fit over each of the sides. I then taped off the area that I didn't want to get spray adhesive on with painters tape. After spraying with adhesive I put the pieces of felt on then worked it into the corners and tip with the back end of a carpenters pencil. I'm sure just about anything would work but it happened to be in front of me. Let the adhesive dry and then cut out the excess felt. I used a little CA glue here at the opening for a little bit of insurance and to get the felt folded over the mouth a bit more. I didn't get any pictures of this next step but I then clamped the two sides together and slid the knife into scabbard. It was really loose as I had routed each side to the a depth of the blade thickness. I covered the felt with more painters tape and took the pieces to the belt grinder using a 120 grit belt to take material off of the inside of each side until I could hold the scabbard upside down without the knife falling out. Doing it this way allows you to adjust exactly how tight you want the scabbard to hold the blade. After this I clamped the sides together again (without gluing at this point) and left it overnight with the knife inside. After I pulled it out the next day there was no rust or discoloration so I was good to go. Then it was time to glue the sides together. Since the only wood glue I had was the aforementioned stuff that caused a knife to rust in the first place, I mixed up some G-Flex epoxy and used that instead. It took very little to get the job done. Let the epoxy cure, then traced the knife profile on the outside and took it to the bandsaw to cut the profile. One of the cuts on the bandsaw was to shave off a little under an 1/8th of an inch from the opening to get remaining felt flaps off and even up the top between the two halves. After it was cut out I inserted a piece of cardboard into the opening to keep sawdust out and took it to the belt grinder to round it all off and smooth it out a bit. After I finished shaping it I hand sanded it with 220 grit paper. Next up was staining. I used the closest thing I had to match but it's a little off. The handle is Mahogany with Tru-Oil and the scabbard is poplar with espresso stain. If anyone has any tips on the best way to match wood stains without buying 15 different stains I would greatly appreciate them. After the stain dried put on a coat of semi-gloss poly and let it cure. All done. Holding it upside down to be sure it doesn't fall out. The longest part of the process was waiting for the glue/epoxy/stain/poly to dry. Other than that, I think I have about 45 minutes and 4 dollars into this thing. On a side note, don't judge too harshly on the knife. It was my first cable damascus and there were some weld flaws, I just liked the way the shape turned out and the other side looks much better. I couldn't bring myself to toss it after all the work I put into it and it does make an excellent box cutter for the house. Oh, and please excuse the shop, it is an island of misfit and half finished projects at the moment.
  4. @Larry Garfield That's it. Just make the hole a little wider at the opening. @Alan Longmire Go figure, Titebond II was the wood glue I was using. I will have to make another one and see if the 3M spray adhesive also contributed to the rust.
  5. I made a few of these in a similiar style for some kitchen knives I made as Christmas presents. To keep the point from tearing at the felt I ramped the initial opening so that it was about two to three times the blade thickness. Also, be careful in your choice of glue. I used spray adhesive for the liner and regular wood glue for the two halves, and the knife would develop small rust spots if left in the scabbard for more than a few hours. Even after being coated with mineral oil before I put it in.
  6. As someone who has been underway on both ships of steel and wood (albeit for a VERY short time on the ship of wood) I can comfortably say there is a lot of truth to this.
  7. It should work fine if you dilute it 1:4. I did something similiar except in my case it was by accident. I had a cable damascus blade with some brass bolsters attached and I wanted to re-etch it since I had shaped the bolsters after I attached them and I sanded through my previous etching. I put a piece of brass bar stock into my FeCl first just to make sure I wasn't going to mess up the work I had done. The bar came out pretty dull so I just went with the blade the way it was and attached some scales. Now anytime I etch anything in that container it comes out with a brassy color. I had to mix up a new batch to avoid it.
  8. I also built my forge using the cheapo depot flux core welder from harbor freight and an old propane tank I found on craigslist for $10. I went the blown burner route using info from this very forum and used a $30 bounce house blower I also got off if craigslist. The kaowool and mizzou was the most expensive part and my total cost was about the same price as one of those ebay forges and some time on a couple of weekends. Lots of good info on this forum with lots of people more than willing to help.
  9. I'm in as well. Looking forward to seeing what everyone comes up with. 1. Conner Michaux 2. Bruno 3. Brian Dougherty 4. Alex Middleton 5. MichaelP 6. Will Drake
  10. I did something similiar to close a gap on a fitting I made several months ago. Worked like a charm and gave it a nice hammered finish but it never ocurred to me to file/sand it flat again. Thanks for sharing the idea.
  11. This is just a guess and a shot in the dark but since you are calling the company anyway you could ask them about the flow rate. Since you are using blown burners and what would seem to be a large manifold there may be some kind of safety device on the tank that senses your set up as a leak and is shutting down the flow. It wouldn't be a problem on a house because the propane lines on the house would still have a little back pressure even with appliances running. Hope you get it worked out soon.
  12. HOLY (insert favorite expletive), my wife walked in and had to pick my jaw up off the floor.
  13. It's difficult to put into words how much I love the way this sword looks. I've had the first Fetter Lane sword you did as my desktop picture for the last three years as inspiration.
  14. My last try at doing a stainless san mai didn't turn out so well so feel free to take this with a grain of salt. If I were to try it with a tube though I would give this a shot https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-10000-Brake-Cylinder-Hone/dp/B0002SQUG8 If you give it a go please post your results, and a WIP would be awesome.
  15. +1 on the Dayton, I have one similiar and its a good machine to get started on. I would also recommend the OBM for anyone who wants to move up. You can save a decent chunk of change by getting the chassis and sourcing your motor elsewhere.
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