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Will Drake

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Everything posted by Will Drake

  1. I made mine from parts I got off of Amazon. Switchable between AC and DC using a tapped transformer for either 6v or 12v output. If you are comfortable with electrical work I can post the scematic and parts list. Just keep in mind when you use a transformer to lower the voltage the amperage goes up, and when it comes to electricity it's the amperage that will do you in.
  2. When I looked at the picture I started seeing stuff that I know isn't there. So, if you happen to need a name for this I vote for " Rorschach Damascus".
  3. I made several kitchen knives as Christmas presents last year and I also made some scabbards so the recipients could keep them in a drawer or on the counter without having to worry about the blade being exposed. Unfortunately, the glues I chose to use (Titebond II and Loctite spray adhesive) ended up causing rust on the blade. I wasn't sure which it was until someone else posted a question about a making a similar scabbard in this sub-forum. After learning that Titebond II (and III as well) was the likely rusting culprit, I decided to make a new one for a knife I have kept in the house a
  4. @Larry Garfield That's it. Just make the hole a little wider at the opening. @Alan Longmire Go figure, Titebond II was the wood glue I was using. I will have to make another one and see if the 3M spray adhesive also contributed to the rust.
  5. I made a few of these in a similiar style for some kitchen knives I made as Christmas presents. To keep the point from tearing at the felt I ramped the initial opening so that it was about two to three times the blade thickness. Also, be careful in your choice of glue. I used spray adhesive for the liner and regular wood glue for the two halves, and the knife would develop small rust spots if left in the scabbard for more than a few hours. Even after being coated with mineral oil before I put it in.
  6. As someone who has been underway on both ships of steel and wood (albeit for a VERY short time on the ship of wood) I can comfortably say there is a lot of truth to this.
  7. It should work fine if you dilute it 1:4. I did something similiar except in my case it was by accident. I had a cable damascus blade with some brass bolsters attached and I wanted to re-etch it since I had shaped the bolsters after I attached them and I sanded through my previous etching. I put a piece of brass bar stock into my FeCl first just to make sure I wasn't going to mess up the work I had done. The bar came out pretty dull so I just went with the blade the way it was and attached some scales. Now anytime I etch anything in that container it comes out with a brassy color. I had to mix
  8. I also built my forge using the cheapo depot flux core welder from harbor freight and an old propane tank I found on craigslist for $10. I went the blown burner route using info from this very forum and used a $30 bounce house blower I also got off if craigslist. The kaowool and mizzou was the most expensive part and my total cost was about the same price as one of those ebay forges and some time on a couple of weekends. Lots of good info on this forum with lots of people more than willing to help.
  9. I'm in as well. Looking forward to seeing what everyone comes up with. 1. Conner Michaux 2. Bruno 3. Brian Dougherty 4. Alex Middleton 5. MichaelP 6. Will Drake
  10. I did something similiar to close a gap on a fitting I made several months ago. Worked like a charm and gave it a nice hammered finish but it never ocurred to me to file/sand it flat again. Thanks for sharing the idea.
  11. This is just a guess and a shot in the dark but since you are calling the company anyway you could ask them about the flow rate. Since you are using blown burners and what would seem to be a large manifold there may be some kind of safety device on the tank that senses your set up as a leak and is shutting down the flow. It wouldn't be a problem on a house because the propane lines on the house would still have a little back pressure even with appliances running. Hope you get it worked out soon.
  12. HOLY (insert favorite expletive), my wife walked in and had to pick my jaw up off the floor.
  13. It's difficult to put into words how much I love the way this sword looks. I've had the first Fetter Lane sword you did as my desktop picture for the last three years as inspiration.
  14. My last try at doing a stainless san mai didn't turn out so well so feel free to take this with a grain of salt. If I were to try it with a tube though I would give this a shot https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-10000-Brake-Cylinder-Hone/dp/B0002SQUG8 If you give it a go please post your results, and a WIP would be awesome.
  15. +1 on the Dayton, I have one similiar and its a good machine to get started on. I would also recommend the OBM for anyone who wants to move up. You can save a decent chunk of change by getting the chassis and sourcing your motor elsewhere.
  16. That's a pretty good grinder to get started. I have the Craftsman 2x42 which is essentially the same same thing. (Probably even same manufacturer, just different labeling). +1 on leaving the guards off. To help with quick belt changes I cut one side of the table off. I also added a ceramic tile platen, it seems to offer a little less friction than the one it came with. If you add a platten I would recommend adding some bolts below it in case the epoxy ever lets loose. Probably not needed but it doesn't cost much and a little extra safety never hurt anyone.
  17. I used the hard ones. The soft ones probably wouldn't hold up so well and the hard ones are only an inch thick.
  18. It's a quick change for me, takes all of 30 seconds. I used the firebrick as a mold when I put in the refractory, then pulled it out to cure a bit. Periodically went back and put the brick back in during the curing process to maintain the shape and now I have an easily replaceable floor.
  19. II used Mizzou in mine and just replaced some of the refractory on the bottom when the flux ate through it after welding a bunch of cable. Mizzou may be flux resistant but it's not flux proof. Granted my bottom layer of Mizzou may not have been thick enough. If your future plans include doing (in my case trying) a lot of pattern welding or welding cable a fire brick bottom wouldn't be a bad idea. I did it for mine since I would rather toss a $5 brick than redo my forge again anytime soon.
  20. I was bummed when I saw the post that said it had been sold out. I looked more closely at the posts and it looked like it was just battle merchant that had been sold out so I went to the museum website and tried to order one. I also sent a message along with the order asking if there were any more copies available. It didn't take long for me to get the same email Brian did with account numbers and such. The next day a representative from the museum also emailed me saying that copies were available, so I was off to my local bank. BTW I don't speak German, luckily google translate worked very we
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