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Will Drake

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Posts posted by Will Drake

  1. I made mine from parts I got off of Amazon. Switchable between AC and DC using a tapped transformer for either 6v or 12v output. If you are comfortable with electrical work I can post the scematic and parts list.  Just keep in mind when you use a transformer to lower the voltage the amperage goes up, and when it comes to electricity it's the amperage that will do you in. 

  2. When I looked at the picture I started seeing stuff that I know isn't there. So, if you happen to need a name for this I vote for " Rorschach Damascus". 

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  3. I made several kitchen knives as Christmas presents last year and I also made some scabbards so the recipients could keep them in a drawer or on the counter without having to worry about the blade being exposed.  Unfortunately, the glues I chose to use (Titebond II and Loctite spray adhesive) ended up  causing rust on the blade.   I wasn't sure which it was until someone else posted a question about a making a similar scabbard in this sub-forum.   After learning that Titebond II (and III as well) was the likely rusting culprit, I decided to make a new one for a knife I have kept in the house and have been using as a box cutter.  First, because the knife needs one as it has been unceremoniously been subjected to  storage in a makeshift sheath, and secondly because it would give me the chance to verify if the spray adhesive I had used originally had contributed to the rusting problem.

    First off I cut two  6 1/2 inch long pieces from  3" x 48" poplar board that was 1/4 inch thick.   You can get it your local big box home improvement stores for less than $5.  After tracing out the shape of the knife blade on the scabbard blanks I routed them out with a Dremel tool.  My Dremel came with a routing attachment and I have used it far more than I thought I would.  I set the depth of the dremel cutter to equal my blade width, the reason will be explained a little later in the WIP.  After the hollow was routed I took a wood rasp and ramped the opening so that it would be almost twice the blade  width. This helps get the blade in the scabbard without tearing at the felt.  If you look closely at the picture you can see the slope of the opening.

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    After testing the blade fit I moved on to gluing in the felt. 

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    For this I used the pieces you can get at Walmart for 23 cents. I cut out pieces that would fit over each of the sides.

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    I then taped off the area that I didn't want to get spray adhesive on with painters tape. 

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    After spraying with adhesive I put the pieces of felt on then worked it into the corners and tip with the back end of a carpenters pencil.  I'm sure just about anything would work but it happened to be in front of me.

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    Let the adhesive dry and then cut out the excess felt.

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    I used a little CA glue here at the opening for a little bit of insurance and to get the felt folded over the mouth a bit more.   I didn't get any pictures of this next step but I then clamped the two sides together and slid the knife into scabbard. It was really loose as I had routed each side to the a depth of the blade thickness. I covered the felt with more painters tape and took the pieces to the belt grinder using a 120 grit belt to take  material off of the inside of each side until I could hold the scabbard upside down without the knife falling out.  Doing it this way allows you to adjust exactly how tight you want the scabbard to hold the blade.  After this I clamped the sides together again (without gluing at this point) and left it overnight with the knife inside.   After I pulled it out the next day there was no rust or discoloration so I was good to go.   

    Then it was time to glue the sides together. Since the only wood glue I had was the aforementioned stuff that caused a knife to rust in the first place, I mixed up some G-Flex epoxy and used that instead. It took very little to get the job done.

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    Let the epoxy cure, then traced the knife profile on the outside and took it to the bandsaw to cut the profile.  One of the cuts on the bandsaw was to shave off a little under an 1/8th of an inch from the opening to get remaining felt flaps off and even up the top between the two halves. 

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    After it was cut out I inserted a piece of cardboard into the opening to keep sawdust out and took it to the belt grinder to round it all off and smooth it out a bit. After I finished shaping it I hand sanded it with 220 grit paper.

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    Next up was staining. I used the closest thing I had to match but it's a little off. The handle is Mahogany with Tru-Oil and the scabbard is poplar with espresso stain. If anyone has any tips on the best way to match wood stains without buying 15 different stains I would greatly appreciate them. 

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    After the stain dried put on a coat of semi-gloss poly and let it cure.

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    All done. Holding it upside down to be sure it doesn't fall out.

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    The longest part of the process was waiting for the glue/epoxy/stain/poly to dry. Other than that, I think I have about 45 minutes and 4 dollars into this thing.  On a side note, don't judge too harshly on the knife. It was my first cable damascus and there were some weld flaws, I just liked the way the shape turned out and the other side looks much better. I couldn't bring myself to toss it after all the work I put into it and it does make an excellent box cutter for the house. Oh, and please excuse the shop, it is an island of misfit and half finished projects at the moment. 



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  4. I made a few of these in a similiar style for some kitchen knives I made as Christmas presents. To keep the point from tearing at the felt I ramped the initial opening so that it was about two to three times the blade thickness. Also, be careful in your choice of glue. I used spray adhesive for the liner and regular wood glue for the two halves, and the knife would develop small rust spots if left in the scabbard for more than a few hours. Even after being coated with mineral oil before I put it in. 


  5. 2 hours ago, MichaelP said:

    I've heard it said that when the ships were made of wood the sailors were made of iron. Once the iron ships came around the sailors became wooden.

    As someone who has been underway on both ships of steel and wood (albeit for a VERY short time on the ship of wood) I can comfortably say there is a lot of truth to this. 

  6. It should work fine if you dilute it 1:4. I did something similiar except in my case it was by accident. I had a cable damascus blade with some brass bolsters attached and I wanted to re-etch it since I had shaped the bolsters after I attached them and I sanded through my previous etching. I put a piece of brass bar stock into my FeCl first just to make sure I wasn't going to mess up the work I had done. The bar came out pretty dull so I just went with the blade the way it was and attached some scales. Now anytime I etch anything in that container it comes out with a brassy color. I had to mix up a new batch to avoid it. 

  7. I also built my forge using the cheapo depot flux core welder from harbor freight and an old propane tank I found on craigslist for $10. I went the blown burner route using info from this very forum and used a $30 bounce house blower I also got off if craigslist. The kaowool and mizzou was the most expensive part and my total cost was about the same price as one of those ebay forges and some time on a couple of weekends. Lots of good info on this forum with lots of people more than willing to help. 

  8. 13 hours ago, Alex Middleton said:

     I filed it out as skinny as my needle files would let me, put the tang through, and then beat the ever living s#@t out of it with a hammer until the slot closed up and fit itself to the tang.  

    I did something similiar to close a gap on a fitting I made several months ago. Worked like a charm and gave it a nice hammered finish but it never ocurred to me to file/sand it flat again. Thanks for sharing the idea. 

  9. This is just a guess and a shot in the dark but since you are calling the company anyway you could ask them about the flow rate. Since you are using blown burners and what would seem to be a large manifold there may be some kind of safety device on the tank that senses your set up as a leak and is shutting down the flow. It wouldn't be a problem on a house because the propane lines on the house would still have a little back pressure even with appliances running. Hope you get it worked out soon. 

  10. My last try at doing a stainless san mai didn't turn out so well so feel free to take this with a grain of salt. If I were to try it with a tube though I would give this a shot


    If you give it a go please post your results, and a WIP would be awesome.

  11. That's a pretty good grinder to get started. I have the Craftsman 2x42 which is essentially the same  same thing. (Probably even same manufacturer, just different labeling). +1 on leaving the guards off. To help with quick belt changes I cut one side of the table off. I also added a ceramic tile platen, it seems to offer a little less friction than the one it came with. If you add a platten I would recommend adding some bolts below it in case the epoxy ever lets loose. Probably not needed but it doesn't cost much and a little extra safety never hurt anyone. 



  12. It's a quick change for me, takes all of 30 seconds. I used the firebrick as a mold when I put in the refractory, then pulled it out to cure a bit. Periodically went back and put the brick back in during the curing process to maintain the shape and now I have an easily replaceable floor.

  13.  II used Mizzou in mine and just replaced some of the refractory on the bottom when the flux ate through it after welding a bunch of cable. Mizzou may be flux resistant but it's not flux proof. Granted my bottom layer of Mizzou may not have been thick enough. If your future plans include doing (in my case trying) a lot of pattern welding or welding cable a fire brick bottom wouldn't be a bad idea. I did it for mine since I would rather toss a $5 brick than redo my forge again anytime soon. 


  14. I was bummed when I saw the post that said it had been sold out. I looked more closely at the posts and it looked like it was just battle merchant that had been sold out so I went to the museum website and tried to order one. I also sent a message along with the order asking if there were any more copies available. It didn't take long for me to get the same email Brian did with account numbers and such. The next day a representative from the museum also emailed me saying that copies were available, so I was off to my local bank. BTW I don't speak German, luckily google translate worked very well in this instance. After spending about an hour at the bank, apparently like Western Union the don't do a lot of international transfers, my wire went through and now I am highly anticipating the catalogs arrival! If you choose to go this route be sure to take the address of the bank the transfer is going to with you (I think the name is Stadt-Solingen Sparkasse). I got lucky and my bank was willing to try and look it up, yours may not be since the website is in German. Also they will need to know what kind of account it is. I chose checking, more of a guess really, I figured a business account used for processing orders wouldn't be a savings account. All of the other info you need is in the email the museum sends. I hope this info helps any of you who wanted to order one.

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