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Andrew Hardesty

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  1. Here's a trio I recently acquired. I made the handles for the axes out of hickory and cleaned the heads up then sharpened them. The darker handle is a true temper (I think Kelly) and the lighter handle is a Gambles. First time making this style of handle, so any comments or critiquing is welcome. The Opinel is bone stock, and the blue handle is slightly growing on me as it is easier to see sitting on a log instead of the traditional plain handle, but it's hard to beat a simple finish on these knives. Thanks for looking.
  2. I know this isn't a typical bladesmithing tool, but I love these large older chisels, and especially when I get them for $1! I found the blade at a flea market in a beaten condition, but the edge was fine. Smoothed the peined areas off the socket from where someone was using hammering on it without a handle and flattened the bottom, but otherwise it was a sharpening and general clean up for it. New handle and she's good to go! Thanks for looking.
  3. The board it's sitting on is 3/4" thick if that helps for scale.
  4. Hello, I'm having trouble finding out any info on this stone. Grabbed it at a flea market for $3. It looks like it was part of a larger one, or maybe for an industrial use. It's in between my Bear Medium India Stone and my Norton A/O combo stones on hardness with a medium-med.fine grit. Just curious about it. Thanks all!
  5. BrIan - Thank you. I do need to come watch you make some more of that great damascus like you did on your dagger. Gabriel - thanks! Alan - I kinda made it up as I went, glad it didn't turn out too bad. Thank you! Buck- I'll PM you, thanks! Joshua- Its about time for me to go and read that article again. I must be doing something different because every time I heat a 5160 blade and just edge quench in pre heated oil I lose my temper line. The spine also gets harder than I like as well. I think it has something to do with how 5160 is a deep hardening steel, but I'm on the cusp o
  6. Well for the first time ever probably, I've had something done for about 2 weeks now, but not had/taken the time to post it. Work sometimes has to come first i guess. The dirks done and a simple curly maple scabard was made. Jake was right on when he commented that the hand should lock in between the pommel and the guard. My handle is about 1/2" to long for this with my hands, ironically which is the amount longer than what he commented on what the OAL should be for these. Sometimes I learn the easy way, sometimes not so much. The HT line didn't come out like I would normally like, but I did
  7. Brian-thank you for the offer, mine isn't really pretty either. I ended up using the torch because I wanted a definitive HT line. Every time I use my forge to HT 5160 I don't really get an active line as it heats the whole blade, but if I only heat and quench the edge then I seem to. I would rather have used my forge because it was pretty tricky to get just the edge up to and hold critical temp...
  8. Well it made it past heat treat without any catastrophic failures. I will have to polish it up before the etch to have a better look for any other problems on the edge later. I think the differential heat treat went ok. I wanted to leave some non-hardened material at the end of the blade since I don't really have a ricasso here. I'll have to see how visible the HT line is after the polish and etch as well. It was tricky for me to do a longer thinner blade with a torch, but the edge got up to temp and it seems have held it right before the quench. The edge is nice and hard. It was tempered
  9. Oh yeah, in the first picture on my previous post you can see a spalted line running up the handle on the left side. Next to that is the glue joint for the piece that popped out. I'm very grateful it seemed to work out ok. I also realize that the handle doesn't really look like a traditional dirk handle. At this point I may just have to call this a dirk-shaped-object.
  10. I guess I just keep plugging along. The handle just got a lot simpler than I had planned, so maybe this thing will get done on time. I drew up roughly what I wanted where I wanted it. (Very rough ) Ended up finally getting something that looks like it was dug up out of the ground after being buried for 400 years . (My wife like the 'antiqued' look, but this is probably stretching it) For never carving anything like this before I'm glad it kinda looks like celtic knotwork, but as with this whole project I learned a lot on this and hope to make the next one better. I stained the h
  11. I made a little more progess last night. The filework is done and the fuller just needed its final polish before HT. Speaking of HT, I hope to have that done this week. I started roughing out the handle on the lathe and bandsaw. I ended up going with figured maple. When I was almost finished turning I saw a little chunk pop off and go flying. I didn't want to turn off the lathe and see how bad it was, but thankfully the chunk stayed in one piece and I was able to glue it back on after I finished turning the handle. I also realized that the wood may still be drying out because my cutoff f
  12. "Shiny is stupid." That's what I thought when i wanted to buy a new camping revolver, then I ended up buying the most buffed stainless one I found... . I don't understand myself sometimes, but that knife is awesome! Bravo on it. (I'm making a black holster to hide the "shiny" now)
  13. It's a wonderful sight to see an old lathe like that still in great condition. 010" drop between the spindle and tailstock? That sounds like a taper inducing headache...Congratulations on the buy.
  14. I guess I should also say that if I can I like to burn my tangs in as well when the situation permits. Sometimes though, a file like everone else says is the best way to do it
  15. I don't know of this is right, but on some of my lighter duty hidden tang knives I step drill the tang hole. If the tang is .250 at the very end I drill .187 to full depth of the tang in the handle. Then every 1" of tang I bump up in size correspondingly to the tang width. You end up with a bigger hole at the top, but it gets covered with the bolster. I just fill the whole tang hole with epoxy after I scrape/minor file the blade to fit. On heavier duty handles you can make a hooked scraper the thickness of your tang and remove wood as fast or faster than a file if the wood isn't to hard. Other
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