Connor J. Myers-Norton

This is no longer for sale

They come in a couple different shapes and sizes, they are often vaguely w shaped but you can check the type used on your rails by looking on the under side of the rail( they are usually between every other tye) the stock thickness is usually 1"x5/8"

We have a chat room?!

Wow, this is different

This was more or less an experiment, but recently I have been forging thin and grinding thinner

It was differentaialy hardened, making the hardened area about 3/4 to 1/2 inch in places, I think I'll re normalize and try again with a slightly thicker edge and no clay other than a thin protective coating.

Sorry for the horrible pictures

So I'm making my second ever chiefs knife and the quench resulted in a left hand warp (which I remedied out of the quench) and the edge turned to bacon (wiggles). The blade was close to final demensions(really close) and I may have over heated it some. I just want to know if I can fix this or if I have to start over, I'll get pictures after I finish tempering it.

If you are fine with drinking beer through a straw then why not use a gass mask and drink through a canteen straw? Then you don't need goggles either!

I've used peanut oil, it's a bit thick so heat it up good (I used to heat up the quench tank with a rose bud but that may be a bit too hot for this). At home I use an ammo can full of ATF (automatic transmission fluid) and it works well, but different manufacturers of automotive fluids have different specs so I may have lucked out. The only advantage to synthetic oils is that they don't go bad but natural oils are the same no matter who you get them from.

I like this contest idea

with careful forging you could do that with about 4 inches of your original stock, I use 1.25x.25 stock and only use about 6 inches to get a knife larger than that. Also why did you start with 3/8 stock, Were you planning on making axes?

I've had successful water quenches with MUCH thinner edges, it's all about having the right temp and a really low manganese steel, lower carbon range helps too, I like 1075 and 1080 for water quenching.I closely watch the color and do a snap temper immediately after the quench followed by my normal tempering cycle.

Check metallurgy and other enigmas or heat treating by alloy, I know there is already a thread on 1084 around here somewhere.

I have 12 in my possession currently and a few messy WI sellers tie plates. I'll walk the tracks one more time to see if there are any more to be had