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Connor J. Myers-Norton

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Everything posted by Connor J. Myers-Norton

  1. I should really be on the forum more often, if I had seen this earlier I would have been able to work something awesome into my blade production schedule, but as there are only 3 Sundays left I don't think I could do the theme justice
  2. They come in a couple different shapes and sizes, they are often vaguely w shaped but you can check the type used on your rails by looking on the under side of the rail( they are usually between every other tye) the stock thickness is usually 1"x5/8"
  3. This was more or less an experiment, but recently I have been forging thin and grinding thinner
  4. It was differentaialy hardened, making the hardened area about 3/4 to 1/2 inch in places, I think I'll re normalize and try again with a slightly thicker edge and no clay other than a thin protective coating.
  5. So I'm making my second ever chiefs knife and the quench resulted in a left hand warp (which I remedied out of the quench) and the edge turned to bacon (wiggles). The blade was close to final demensions(really close) and I may have over heated it some. I just want to know if I can fix this or if I have to start over, I'll get pictures after I finish tempering it.
  6. If you are fine with drinking beer through a straw then why not use a gass mask and drink through a canteen straw? Then you don't need goggles either!
  7. I've used peanut oil, it's a bit thick so heat it up good (I used to heat up the quench tank with a rose bud but that may be a bit too hot for this). At home I use an ammo can full of ATF (automatic transmission fluid) and it works well, but different manufacturers of automotive fluids have different specs so I may have lucked out. The only advantage to synthetic oils is that they don't go bad but natural oils are the same no matter who you get them from.
  8. with careful forging you could do that with about 4 inches of your original stock, I use 1.25x.25 stock and only use about 6 inches to get a knife larger than that. Also why did you start with 3/8 stock, Were you planning on making axes?
  9. I've had successful water quenches with MUCH thinner edges, it's all about having the right temp and a really low manganese steel, lower carbon range helps too, I like 1075 and 1080 for water quenching.I closely watch the color and do a snap temper immediately after the quench followed by my normal tempering cycle.
  10. Check metallurgy and other enigmas or heat treating by alloy, I know there is already a thread on 1084 around here somewhere.
  11. I have 12 in my possession currently and a few messy WI sellers tie plates. I'll walk the tracks one more time to see if there are any more to be had
  12. You should talk to a man named Glen Horr he is the only man I've seen to use handheld air hammers to MASSIVE amounts of work
  13. How did they get the face to mushroom like that? It's the same height as the shelf!
  14. Yea, the guys in jersey don't care as much, I was even able to snag some track
  15. Ebonite (the original black stuff) is hard black rubber
  16. I may be able to make it this year, but before I fill out the form (specifically the tailgating bit) does anyone want some railroad welding thermite buttons? They just re layed the track in my area and I picked up about a dozen and I cand do anything with them myself.
  17. Yea, you just got to play a round with your set up, the most important things that I can find are just limiting the light source. I actually tale pictures on my work bench, because there is no extra light in my garage and my work light is at a pretty good angle. Walter sorrels made a "tips and tricks" video on photographing blades and he touched on hamon's as well, you should check it out on YouTube he explains it better than me.
  18. Sir, the things you do with steel are incredible
  19. Well it's still here and still $200, but I'm removing the best offer option seeing as my acid washed blades of the same style are also $200.
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