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jheinen

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jheinen last won the day on November 12 2017

jheinen had the most liked content!

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About jheinen

  • Birthday 04/19/1967

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  • Website URL
    http://www.jheinencfi.com/

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Issaquah, WA
  • Interests
    Knife making, blacksmithing, aviation, history

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  1. jheinen

    What did you do in your shop today?

    Speaking of which, beyond milling guard slots, shoulders, and fullers, or making the odd file guide or two, what do you folks use your mill for?
  2. jheinen

    What did you do in your shop today?

    It's a PM-25MV. I got it set up and it's surprisingly quiet. I'm glad I got this one vs. the Grizzly. I've also got a X-axis power feed that I need to install.
  3. jheinen

    What did you do in your shop today?

    So this showed up at the shop yesterday. Working on getting it set up. Perfect guard slots, here I come!
  4. jheinen

    Vorace, (hungry) another XVIII b

    Astounding. Bravo!
  5. Good first effort! I am by no means an expert, but some suggestions: As @Kreg said, the guard is too big. It extends too far down, and I think it's also too wide. From the picture, the handle seems to be round. This will cause the knife to turn in your hand. You want a more oval shape the fits the natural shape of your hand. The handle seems too thick. Think thin. When I was starting out, every time I thought I had my handles and guards the right size, an expert would tell me THINNER!. On a knife that size the guard should usually not be wider than about 1/2" or so, and typically the handle is the same width as the guard where they meet. If you can, look at and handle some knives made by experts. It really helps to understand the proportions. Shape the guard more. It looks like you had a rectangular bar and just rounded off the corners. It would look better if the top of the guard followed the contour of the handle, and the bottom of the guard narrowed to more of a radius. Go slow, pay attention to details. Take your time. Put the knife down for awhile then come back to it and look at closely and with a critical eye. Address the small details. Keep at it!
  6. jheinen

    First hamon

    Hmmm...methinks I need to try this hamon thing. That's a beautiful blade.
  7. jheinen

    Out of the box for me

    I believe the fastest time turned in so far, and the ultimate winner of season one, was a longsword (type XVIa I think?)
  8. jheinen

    Forging the Plunge

    I do exactly as you described, and it seems no matter how careful I am, the simple fact that I'm hammering steel against an anvil means that I can't get a transition that has to be ground back somewhat. I've been thinking about making a guillotine tool for this, maybe that's what I'll have to try. How sharp is the radius on you hammer and anvil where you do this?
  9. jheinen

    Forging the Plunge

    Hey folks, I was hoping some of you might have some tips on forging the plunges. I've been struggling with the transition between the ricasso and the blade. I believe it is generally preferred to have the plunge line inline with the heel of the blade. Note the picture below. I'm want to get the plunge to be where the green line is. The problem is that when pulling down the blade edge there are hammer marks in the circled red area that need to be ground away, which means I have to push the plunge back deeper into the ricasso. Basically the problem is that I can't get a sharp angle between the ricasso and the blade. When I forge it, the transition slopes from the ricasso to the blade, and I can't see any way to avoid that.
  10. Great googly moogly! That's some absolutely superb craftsmanship right there!. Well done, sir. Well. Done.
  11. jheinen

    Flat grind

    You could take it to a full flat grind. The would make the guard fit a little bit easier. It's a fairly seaxy looking design, and a flat grind would be more in keeping with the seax style.
  12. jheinen

    Flat grind

    You might find it tricky to fit the guard without a ricasso or a full flat grind. You'll have to file the slot to match the contours of the grind, and I find it challenging enough when doing it with a flat grind, let alone following the angles. If you're very careful and take your time, it can be done.
  13. jheinen

    Flat grind

    What you've got there is a saber grind. A flat grind is a continuous, flat bevel from the edge to the spine with no transitions. I also notice that there's no ricasso. What kind of guard are you planning, if any?
  14. jheinen

    Perhaps the busiest knife I have ever made...

    Wow. Very striking! I love it.
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