• Announcements

    • Alan Longmire

      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  

jheinen

Members
  • Content count

    101
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

jheinen last won the day on June 6 2016

jheinen had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

12 Good

About jheinen

  • Birthday 04/19/1967

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Recent Profile Visitors

197 profile views
  1. Is there a name for those dies in the picture and where can one get them? I've been trying to figure out how to squash the ends of thong tubes for that flared look, and I guess those are the way you do it. -Jeff
  2. I think it was Brian who made the micarta
  3. Brüt de forge bush knife. 5160 steel, brass grommet, 550 cord wrapped handle.
  4. From the album Jeff H's Work

    Brüt de forge bushcraft knife. 5160 steel, 550 cord wrap handle. Brass grommet.
  5. Beautiful work!
  6. Oops! I guess I did finish that one this year. But I started it last year!
  7. Well, this is nowhere near the league you guys are in, but it's my best knife of the year, and the best of the seven knives I've made so far I think. 1084/15n20 Damascus, handle is curly maple and African Blackwood with brass bolster and spacer. 12" overall.
  8. Ah ha! I'll make a scraper tool out of some mild steel and try scraping it out. Too bad they don't make heat-resistant paper towels Thanks!
  9. Recently got a shipment of 1080, so tonight I forged a medium-sized blade. On another note, I made a san-mai billet a while back, and when I did the welding I put some unglazed tile on the bottom of the forge to protect it from the flux. The only problem is that the tile softened and stuck to forge. Ever since, the tile softens up when I use the forge, so tonight I tried scraping it out with a steel bar. Most of it came out, however the bottom of the forge now has a "wet" look when it's hot, and it's somewhat sticky. Is this a problem? Is there any way to clean it out? Will it go away over time?
  10. Awesome. That's what I was hoping to hear!
  11. I'm getting serious about getting a press. I'm not going to go the DIY route, since presses involve tremendous forces and I don't trust my welding ability to make something that's safe. I've looked at Uncle Al's press, the Claiborne press, etc. A very experienced smith recommended Coal Iron Forge's presses, and they have a 16-ton and a 25-ton model. The 25-ton press costs a bit more than I'd like to spend, and for the hobbyist they say the 16-ton model will do everything you need. My shop space is also limited, so the smaller press would fit better. My main use for the press would be for damascus. Will a 16-ton press be adequate? It has a 2 HP motor, 11 GPM 2-stage pump, and a 4" cylinder. There are some videos of it in action, and it appears to move metal very well. I also like the C-style press. I've used them before and I like the 180 deg. access.
  12. Great advice! Thanks everyone!
  13. Quick question - when you have file work along the spine, of a full-tang knife, do you fill the voids with epoxy so that the whole spine is flush, or do you keep the voids free of epoxy? -Jeff
  14. Finished. Blade is 7" long, overall length is 12". This is my fifth completed knife. Now if I can figure out how to make sheaths.