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jheinen

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Posts posted by jheinen


  1. On 4/20/2019 at 11:32 AM, Joshua States said:

    Buy a set of the dies with the removeable face plates. It makes changing from drawing to flat a lot easier. It's called the "two-part system" on the parts page

    I was looking at those, but I'm concerned that you lose an inch of length off the dies. They also seem pretty expensive at around $700 for both flat and drawing dies. 


  2. I want to get new dies for my 25# little giant that are more suitable to knife making. Currently I just have a set of drawings dies. I figured flat dies with radiused edges would be the most versatile, but then I saw these "knife makers" dies on the little giant website. Has anyone used them? I assume the beveled part is for forging bevels, but it seems like a pretty obtuse angle for that? Do you think these would be worthwhile, or should I stick with flat dies?

    5A3E1E54-DB10-460C-B2BA-96A92E3E8481.png


  3. 39 minutes ago, Ron Benson said:

    Congrats on her interest. Please make sure you contact the school for permission before she shows up with a "weapon".

    Yep, already checked. The school handbook prohibits knives with blades 3" or longer. 


  4. My 16 year-old daughter forged her first blade today. She had to do a cultural immersion project for her Japanese class, so she made a kiridashi. We started off by making a hook so she could practice some hammer work, and then we got into forging the blade. We used 1" X 1/4" 1080. The blade is now in the tempering oven. I'm so proud of her. She did a great job for the first time ever swinging a hammer.

    QJG8mEUSTnaWEtlY17HsWw.jpgIMG_0360.JPGIMG_0410.JPG

    • Like 3

  5. Does anyone know if Don's plans are available anywhere? It seems as if the impossible has actually happened, and something that was once on the internet is now completely gone. If his tutorial is well and truly gone, does anyone know of a good vertical forge tutorial?


  6. I'm in. Probably some kind of folder. 

    1. Conner Michaux

    2. Bruno

    3. Brian Dougherty

    4. Alex Middleton

    5. MichaelP

    6. Will Drake

    7. Zeb Camper 

    8. Joël Mercier

    9. Jeremy Blohm 

    10.  Geoff Keyes

    11. Jason Volkert

    12. Pieter-Paul Derks

    13. Michael Ward

    14. Robert Dowse

    15. Alan Longmire

    16. Chris Briggs

    17. Nikolai Briggs?

    18. Jeff Heinen


  7. 1 hour ago, Joshua States said:

    I have several of these. They work wonderfully for surfacing handle scales, guards, spacers, frames, etc.

    Make a Viking folder.

    Is that a thing? I mean, historically?


  8. This isn't really blade-related, but the torsion spring on my garage door broke, and I was wondering if anyone had ideas on what I could do with it beyond making flint strikers? I wouldn't use it for knives since it's probably full of microcracks, but it seems a waste to just throw it away.


  9. Since the poll is leaning toward a folder, does someone have any pointers to a tutorial on making them? Something suitable for someone who has never made a folder before? 


  10. Here's the first thing I've forged in 2019. It's also the first metal I've moved under my new power hammer. It's not the prettiest blade I've forged, and I'll need to practice to get the "feel" of this hammer, but it took about half the time it would normally take, and my arm and shoulder didn't get sore :) . I've only used air hammers like Anyangs previously, and this hammer definitely has a different feel to it. Also, it seems that the run-on issue I was having goes away after the hammer warms up. 

    fullsizeoutput_11a6.jpeg


  11. I got it set up on the 3/4" plywood and set three of the four anchors before my rotary hammer burned up. I may just skip the fourth anchor as it ain't going anywhere with three 3/4" wedge anchors holding it down. 

    I'm still not happy with the run-on issue. At this point I think the next step would have to be pouring new main bearings. Today I ordered an oxy-acetylene rig. I needed one anyway, and this is just another reason. Does anyone know where I can pick up a pot for melting babbit with propane and a ladle?


  12. 2 hours ago, Joshua States said:

    @jheinen Did you ever get this fixed?

    It's improved, but I wouldn't say it's completely fixed. If I squirt a good bit of oil between the shaft and the spider while it's running it will still make about three or four revolutions before stopping, but it usually won't actually hit the anvil when it's doing that. So it's usable, but I wish it would stop immediately when I let off the treadle. I think I may have to pour new bearings, as there are currently no shims on mine. On the LG rebuild video Sid said there should be a fair bit of friction when the bearing caps are tightened appropriately. I suspect that there might not be enough friction on mine. The other option might be to install a brake on the flywheel.


  13. I've been wanting to embellish some of my handles with carving. I even took a couple of classes and got a set of carving chisels. One thing I've found is that it's very difficult to carve hardwoods like Maple, African Blackwood, etc., so I've been thinking about using the rotary tool for that. To those you carve using a rotary tool, what kind of bits do you find most useful?


  14. 4 minutes ago, Jan Ysselstein said:

    I have some 4" thick 20" by 48" steel plates I would part with...these are former press platens and should be 4140...I have not have them tested. My 50 sits on 1 and I have another soon to operate 50 sitting on another.

     

     

    Thanks Jan. I fear shipping a plate that size would be more money than I can afford! I think I'll go with the plywood since I already have a suitable piece.

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