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Everything posted by jheinen

  1. Picked up some oxygen and acetylene for my new torch today. It was WAY more expensive than I thought it would be - just North of $500. At least from now on I can just exchange the bottles.
  2. I got it set up on the 3/4" plywood and set three of the four anchors before my rotary hammer burned up. I may just skip the fourth anchor as it ain't going anywhere with three 3/4" wedge anchors holding it down. I'm still not happy with the run-on issue. At this point I think the next step would have to be pouring new main bearings. Today I ordered an oxy-acetylene rig. I needed one anyway, and this is just another reason. Does anyone know where I can pick up a pot for melting babbit with propane and a ladle?
  3. It's improved, but I wouldn't say it's completely fixed. If I squirt a good bit of oil between the shaft and the spider while it's running it will still make about three or four revolutions before stopping, but it usually won't actually hit the anvil when it's doing that. So it's usable, but I wish it would stop immediately when I let off the treadle. I think I may have to pour new bearings, as there are currently no shims on mine. On the LG rebuild video Sid said there should be a fair bit of friction when the bearing caps are tightened appropriately. I suspect that there might not be enough
  4. I've been wanting to embellish some of my handles with carving. I even took a couple of classes and got a set of carving chisels. One thing I've found is that it's very difficult to carve hardwoods like Maple, African Blackwood, etc., so I've been thinking about using the rotary tool for that. To those you carve using a rotary tool, what kind of bits do you find most useful?
  5. Thanks Jan. I fear shipping a plate that size would be more money than I can afford! I think I'll go with the plywood since I already have a suitable piece.
  6. Update on the power hammer - I got it moved to its final resting place in the garage, and now I need to put it on some sort of pad. I'm planning to set it on a 3/4" plywood base and secure it with 3/4" concrete wedge anchors. Will a plywood base be OK for this hammer?
  7. I think I may be close to fixing it. Still suspecting that the issue is not enough lubrication between the shaft and pulley, which results in just enough friction to keep it spinning once the clutch is released, I squirted a bunch of oil where the red arrow is pointing. Now it no longer hits once the treadle is released. The hammer goes up and down two or three times and then stops. BTW, does it matter which direction the hammer spins? I've noticed that all of the mechanical hammers I've seen spin clockwise when facing the hammer. Mine is set up to run counterclockwise.
  8. An update - I had to go to Chicago last week, and then I got sick, so I haven't had much time to work on the hammer. This morning I tried loosening the belt, but it didn't fix the problem. I also tightened the bolts that hold the shaft, but that also did not fix the problem. I'm not sure what to try next short of pouring new bearings. Anyone in the Seattle area want to help rebuild a little giant? Extra beer if you know how to pour babbitts
  9. Yes, I will try and take a video. In other news, I reached out to Roger at Little Giant and, amazingly, he responded right away. On Thanksgiving. Talk about customer service! It turns out that the hammer running on is one of the most frequently cited problems, and he pointed me to the FAQ that I somehow missed. Here's what it says: Why does my hammer run on after releasing the treadle? The 5 main causes are 1) the Drive Belts are too tight, 2) the Main Bearings have too much clearance, 3) the Clutch Pulley is not disengaging from Clutch Spider , or4) Babbitt in clutch pulley has to
  10. More oil doesn't help. Everything turns smoothly by hand, and nothing seems to be sticking. The hammer is actually very quiet. But it just won't stop.
  11. I cleaned the crap out of the grease hole again. Lots of degreaser, and I used a swab to clean it out, and used a bent coat hanger to dig around in the hole inside. Put it back together with teflon tape and was able to get even more pressure (although seeing the above comment about not over-greasing the hole, maybe packing it full isn't the way to go). Still have the same problem. I'll try oiling the heck out of the spider and pulley.
  12. Progress - I shortened the treadle linkage and now the hammer is hitting MUCH harder and faster at full deflection. The clutch blocks retract fully into the pulley, and on release they come all the way out. Unfortunately, once it gets running it still won't stop until I shut off the power, however it's hitting much more softly when it's running on than it was before. I cleaned out the grease tube with degreaser and filled it back up. Grease is still coming out around the zerk joint, and I don't see any grease squirting out anywhere else. I'm not sure where it should be squirting out. Should I
  13. I took the zerk off this morning and have been cleaning out the tube with degreaser and a coat hanger. Got a lot of gunk out of there. Where, exactly should I see the grease splooging out? I'd assume that I'd see degreaser coming out somewhere, but I don't see anything.
  14. I tightened the fitting and the grease seeping out of the joint mostly stopped. Now it's coming out of the grease gun nozzle.
  15. I'll have to heat it in the forge tomorrow to bend it. It's about 1/2" thick. I'll give it a shot. That may solve the issue with the hammer not starting, but I don't think it will solve the problem of it not stopping. I suspect grease is not getting to the shaft, so I'll take the grease fitting off and try to clean it out.
  16. Here are the blocks with the treadle depressed and not depressed.
  17. This is with the treadle fully depressed. There's a gap between the blocks and the flywheel.
  18. When I release the treadle, the flywheel does come all the way off the blocks. If I rotate the wheel by hand and step on the treadle, the blocks do not turn. In fact, if I look closely, when the treadle is depressed it does not look like the blocks touch the flywheel. I can see daylight in there, which would explain why it doesn't start unless I stomp the treadle. There's still about 1/4" of travel left with the treadle fully depressed, and I think that when I hit it hard it throws the flywheel just enough to start it going. The turnbuckle on the left is for the motor, the big spring o
  19. I was mistaken. There is a spring to return the treadle. It seems to be returning the treadle correctly.
  20. Some new data - I tightened up the zerg with a wrench and pumped some more grease. This time it started squirting out of the grease gun nozzle itself after a couple of pumps. I also smeared some grease in the pulley thinking to give the blocks something a little more sticky to grab on to. The hammer still won't start unless I stomp the treadle sharply a few times (I'm thinking that by hitting it hard it's throwing the clutch all the way in enough so it grabs). When I release the treadle the hammer continues to hit, although more softly. If I then press the treadle gently, I can find a sweet sp
  21. Well, I gave her a shot of grease, but it didn't seem to help. After a couple of pumps on the gun, grease was coming out of the joint at the bell fitting. I'm thinking that's not good? Could it be plugged?
  22. Thanks Alan. I just ordered the DVD. I'll go get a grease gun today. That's the only part I haven't lubricated. I used an engine hoist with a strap under the C-frame to lift it into the trailer, and then a come along with a strap around the base to pull it in. To unload it I used a forklift and put a 4X4 in the C-frame to lift it with the forks. I was pretty careful not to bang anything around.
  23. Unfortunately there does not appear to be any way to adjust the tension on mine. In fact, it looks like someone had previously tried to adjust the tension by reshaping the clutch fork. I just ordered the DVD.
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