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Everything posted by jheinen

  1. I believe the fastest time turned in so far, and the ultimate winner of season one, was a longsword (type XVIa I think?)
  2. I do exactly as you described, and it seems no matter how careful I am, the simple fact that I'm hammering steel against an anvil means that I can't get a transition that has to be ground back somewhat. I've been thinking about making a guillotine tool for this, maybe that's what I'll have to try. How sharp is the radius on you hammer and anvil where you do this?
  3. Hey folks, I was hoping some of you might have some tips on forging the plunges. I've been struggling with the transition between the ricasso and the blade. I believe it is generally preferred to have the plunge line inline with the heel of the blade. Note the picture below. I'm want to get the plunge to be where the green line is. The problem is that when pulling down the blade edge there are hammer marks in the circled red area that need to be ground away, which means I have to push the plunge back deeper into the ricasso. Basically the problem is that I can't get a sharp angle between the r
  4. Great googly moogly! That's some absolutely superb craftsmanship right there!. Well done, sir. Well. Done.
  5. You could take it to a full flat grind. The would make the guard fit a little bit easier. It's a fairly seaxy looking design, and a flat grind would be more in keeping with the seax style.
  6. You might find it tricky to fit the guard without a ricasso or a full flat grind. You'll have to file the slot to match the contours of the grind, and I find it challenging enough when doing it with a flat grind, let alone following the angles. If you're very careful and take your time, it can be done.
  7. What you've got there is a saber grind. A flat grind is a continuous, flat bevel from the edge to the spine with no transitions. I also notice that there's no ricasso. What kind of guard are you planning, if any?
  8. As it happens, Nick Rossi just posted a great video on making tongs to the NESM YouTube channel:
  9. I wear a cheap harbor freight leather work glove on my left (tong) hand. They're eight bucks for a pack of five pairs. I also cool my tongs in the slack tub after every heat or two.
  10. Yes, this is exactly the problem on the blade in question. I like the mirror trick.
  11. Not square to the spine. If you hold the knife with the blade pointing up and look where the spine meets the guard, the guard is tilted just a hair to the right.
  12. What do you use a 3-jaw chuck for? I thought that was for lathes?
  13. Craigslist - helping murder people since 1995! LOL. Seriously, I wish I had the space for a Bridgeport.
  14. Okay, I think I'm leaning toward that PM-25! Very nice machine. Unfortunately they are currently out of stock. For my guard fit up, I profile and grind the blade to 120 grit, including the shoulders. I flatten and true things up on the disc grinder. After getting things fit I do the final hand polishing to 600 grit. Both you and Dave seem to cut the shoulders later in the process, so I think I will give that a try. Dave said he pretty much gets the blade fully finished and polished to 600 grit before cutting the shoulders. I don't have a table for my disc grinder, and I expect that would
  15. Still using a box cutter, but I've been thinking about making a razor. I like yours.
  16. I'm looking at either the Grizzly G0759 (which is basically the G0704 w/DRO), or the Little Machine Shop High-Torque Mini Mill Deluxe. I think I'm leaning toward the Little Machine Shop mill as from what I've read it has better quality control, and a belt drive. I did see David T. at the conference, though I didn't see Odin. Didn't get a lot of time to chat, but I'll be at his axe class in a couple of months. As for the problems with my knife, the main thing he noticed was the fit of the guard. There was some slight gapping at one corner where the ricasso meets the guard, and the gu
  17. This last weekend I attended the Northwest Blacksmith Association Conference (an awesome event, BTW!), with the intent of bidding on a newly constructed tire hammer that was in the auction. Unfortunately, and as I expected, I was outbid. The hammer went for $3,750, and I was only prepared to go up to $3,000. Sad, I know. While at the conference I also had a chance to meet with one of my mentors, David Lisch, to get a critique on my latest work. He pointed out the numerous flaws that I had overlooked and, as always, gave invaluable advice (for new knife makers, I can't stress enough how valua
  18. I did some research into the chemistry of electro etching, and for the best results apparently the anode (the piece being etched) and the cathode (the hand piece) should actually be of the same material.
  19. Hmm, now there's an idea, especially since brass is a much better conductor than steel. I may have to try that.
  20. Yes, I'm using an alligator clip to attach the positive lead to the piece being etched. My problem was soldering the negative lead to the stainless steel electrode on the hand piece. However I figured it out (it was too hot) and it works! I ordered some stencils from TUStech, and once they arrive I'm in business!
  21. I couldn't bring myself to spend $300+ on an etching machine, so I decided to make one for about $80. I haven't tested it yet, mainly because I'm having a tough time getting a wire to stick to the stainless steel electrode. Any ideas? I did plug it in and it didn't blow up, and the power light comes on, so that's a good sign
  22. I hope he has a swift recovery.
  23. That's what I use. Works great, and I haven't noticed any issues.
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