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Everything posted by jheinen

  1. Are you going to thin it out anymore? The picture makes it look ridiculously thick. But that could just be the angle.
  2. I finished up two of the blades I'm bringing to the ABS Handles and Guards class with Kevin Cashen next week at SOFA. These were made to spec as per the class prerequisites. They are both forged from 5160 and hand-sanded to 600 grit.
  3. Posted to my FB page. I'll also send some $$ on payday (Friday).
  4. During a heavy bout of sanding last night I thought I'd experiment to see which gave the best results. I tried dry, windex, mineral oil, and WD40 while sanding a couple of blades through 220-320-400-600 using Rhynowet Redline. I have to say that WD40 seemed to produce the best results. Overall it cut better, and the abrasive lasted longer. Mineral oil was similar, but not quite as good as the WD40. Windex came in third, and dry was by far the worst.
  5. I received a survey from BLADE magazine awhile back that was gauging people's interest in a West coast blade show. I suspect that they got encouraging results from the survey, fueled by the current interest in knife making that Forged in Fire has generated. Popular interest in knife making is probably at an all-time high right now.
  6. Who is planning to attend Blade Show West in Portland, OR? It's going to be at the Oregon Convention center from October 5th to the 7th. I'd love to meet some of you face-to-face. I'll bring the bourbon -Jeff
  7. I'm leary of prednisone. My mom got pancreatitis twice from it, and an uncle almost died from prednisone-related pancreatitis.
  8. I ended up at the doctor today with a burning throat and severe pain when coughing. It all started Sunday when I was hand sanding a knife with a bubinga handle. I normally wear a respirator when using the grinder, but I didn't really think about it when hand sanding. Sunday night I couldn't sleep at all because of the coughing, and it also kept my wife up. The doc says it's irritation from the sawdust, and that it would take seven to 10 days to clear up. Prescribed some vicodin to help me sleep. Not fun. Wear a respirator.
  9. Just finished this one up last night. It's my first attempt at a hidden tang with a full slotted and sculpted guard. 3 1/2" blade, 8" overall. Blade is 5160, guard is nickel silver, black spacer, and handle is bubinga finished with Tru Oil and a nickel silver pin. I'm fairly pleased with the joint between the blade and guard. Square with no gaps. Unfortunately I decided to use my new disc grinder to sharpen it, and having never sharpened with a disc grinder I messed it up a bit. In other news, my wife gave me my birthday present - she's sending me to SOFA next month to attend Kevin Cashen's ABS Handles & Guards class. Best. Wife. Ever.
  10. Hi all, For hidden tang knives, do you grind shoulders for the guard to rest against, or do you press fit? I've been taught the shoulder method, but have heard that great results come from press fitting, and that it's easier to make a seamless joint. What say the cognoscenti?
  11. After learning the miraculous things a disc grinder can do from David Lisch, I ordered one from Jose at Pheer and finished putting this thing together today.
  12. I recently took delivery of a several 2' long bars of mild steel. Taped together they all weighed about 40-50 lbs (basically all together they were about a 4" X 3" X 2' bar of steel. I leaned them against my leg vise and then forgot about them. Last night I was doing some hand sanding of a blade, and wanted to move the vise to a better position. I grabbed the vice and started shoving, and the big bar of steel that I forgot about fell over square on to my left big toe. Long story short - crushed toe with fractures in two places. Lesson learned - steel-toed shoes are probably a good idea!
  13. I used to use the ATP paste, but I've found that I don't really get scale when I heat treat using my EvenHeat oven. The blade turns black, but no scale. This is with 1084 and 5160. Not sure about other steels though.
  14. Well, I'm a noob myself , but I'll see if I can whip something together.
  15. Got tired of being cold. Picked up a forced air propane heater for $99. Heats the whole shop in just a few minutes
  16. Sharpening. Well, I have japanese waterstones, diamond stones, fancy contraptions that guarantee the correct angle, and even an expensive electric thingamabob. With all of that stuff I was never able to get a sharp blade. Then mastersmith Brion Tomberlin showed me how to do it. I grind the edge on the grinder platen to put about a 22˚ angle on it, then reverse the blade on the slack part of the belt to smooth and refine the edge. Then a couple of minutes with a steel and leather strop, and I'm shaving. Takes about 10 minutes. All that other stuff just collects dust now.
  17. Rob provided the solution. An impact adjustment got it tracking where I want it. Reminds me of the story the Greybeard engineer - “There is an old story of a boilermaker who was hired to fix a huge steamship boiler system that was not working well. After listening to the engineer’s description of the problems and asking a few questions, he went to the boiler room. He looked at the maze of twisting pipes, listened to the thump of the boiler and the hiss of the escaping steam for a few minutes, and felt some pipes with his hands. Then he hummed softly to himself, reached into his overalls and took out a small hammer, and tapped a bright red valve one time. Immediately, the entire system began working perfectly, and the boilermaker went home. When the steamship owner received a bill for one thousand dollars, he became outraged and complained that the boilermaker had only been in the engine room for fifteen minutes and requested an itemized bill. So the boilermaker sent him a bill that reads as follows: For tapping the valve: $.50 For knowing where to tap: $999.50 TOTAL: $1,000.00”
  18. I don't think wear is the issue, as the grinder is relatively new. I'll drop Rob a line.
  19. I flipped the belt and had the same problem. I'm not sure what to try other than trimming the tracking wheel's mounting block so that it has more travel to move the belt to the right.
  20. Unfortunately I've tried tightening the belt as much as possible, loosening it, fresh belts, etc. I remove the belt when I'm not using the grinder. The only think I can think of at this point is to try beveling the mounting block on the tracking wheel so that it will track even further to the right, but I'm not sure that's a good idea.
  21. Does anyone else have issues with J-Flex belt tracking? I have a KMG grinder, and when I use J-Flex belts, they track very far to the left. So much so that even with the tracking screw all the way out there's still at least 1/8" of platen showing on the right side. I don't see this problem with stiffer belts.
  22. I suppose what I'm really asking is what size(s) do most people keep on hand for their knives? I don't want to order one piece of stock for each blade, rather I'm trying to figure out what to order so I have an inventory of steel suitable for most knives.
  23. I'm curious, what size A36 or stainless stock do you typically get for making guards for hidden tang knives between 4" and 10" blade length?
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