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jheinen

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Everything posted by jheinen

  1. Proof that you don't need a shop full of expensive equipment to turn out great work. Very nice!
  2. I've been in need of a hot-cut hardy tool for awhile, so I finally got around to making one today. Forged out of 1 1/4" 4140 rod.
  3. I recently spent a couple of weeks in Maine at the New England School of Metalwork taking the ABS Intro to Bladesmithing class. It was an incredible experience. I think I learned more in two weeks there than I have in the last two years. The instructor was Mastersmith Brion Tomberlin along with Journeyman smith Nick Rossi, two absolutely fine gentlemen with a wealth of knowledge and the ability to teach what they know. As part of the class we forged a blade to pass the ABS Journeyman performance test (and I'm happy to say my blade passed with flying colors). Here are some of the blades I
  4. Awesome! The NESM is such an incredible place. I just finished the two-week ABS bladesmithing course there.
  5. This was my first. It's a seax made from 1095 with a curly maple handle. The bolster is a piece of damascus that I made in a damascus class. It definitely has some issues, but I learned a lot making it.
  6. I'm curious, what software do you use to produce those drawings?
  7. Heating it up did the trick. Thanks!
  8. I'm drilling at 290 RPM. Is that slow enough? Also, should I use a cobalt bit? I'm hesitant to use my expensive bits.
  9. Apparently nickel silver is hard to drill? I tried drilling 1/8" pin holes in a 1/4" thick bolster, and ruined a bit on the first hole. Is there a particular bit or technique I should be using? I was using a regular bit in my drill press with cutting oil. I didn't get the typical curls of metal like I do when drilling steel, just pieces of ground up metal.
  10. jheinen

    #9

    I have some Japanese water stones, but so far have not had very good luck with them.
  11. jheinen

    #9

    The handle is fairly small, so I was worried about taking too much off. It's designed around my wife's very small hands, though it feels pretty comfortable in my very large hands.
  12. jheinen

    #9

    I put the final edge on it with an electric sharpener, though I haven't stropped it yet. It's quite sharp.
  13. jheinen

    #9

    Here's my latest blade. 1080 steel, curly maple scales with 1/4" brass pins. There are some hammer marks I couldn't get out, but that proves it's hand forged
  14. Is there a name for those dies in the picture and where can one get them? I've been trying to figure out how to squash the ends of thong tubes for that flared look, and I guess those are the way you do it. -Jeff
  15. BrĂ¼t de forge bush knife. 5160 steel, brass grommet, 550 cord wrapped handle.
  16. Oops! I guess I did finish that one this year. But I started it last year!
  17. Well, this is nowhere near the league you guys are in, but it's my best knife of the year, and the best of the seven knives I've made so far I think. 1084/15n20 Damascus, handle is curly maple and African Blackwood with brass bolster and spacer. 12" overall.
  18. Ah ha! I'll make a scraper tool out of some mild steel and try scraping it out. Too bad they don't make heat-resistant paper towels Thanks!
  19. Recently got a shipment of 1080, so tonight I forged a medium-sized blade. On another note, I made a san-mai billet a while back, and when I did the welding I put some unglazed tile on the bottom of the forge to protect it from the flux. The only problem is that the tile softened and stuck to forge. Ever since, the tile softens up when I use the forge, so tonight I tried scraping it out with a steel bar. Most of it came out, however the bottom of the forge now has a "wet" look when it's hot, and it's somewhat sticky. Is this a problem? Is there any way to clean it out? Will it go away over tim
  20. Awesome. That's what I was hoping to hear!
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