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jheinen

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Everything posted by jheinen

  1. I'm getting serious about getting a press. I'm not going to go the DIY route, since presses involve tremendous forces and I don't trust my welding ability to make something that's safe. I've looked at Uncle Al's press, the Claiborne press, etc. A very experienced smith recommended Coal Iron Forge's presses, and they have a 16-ton and a 25-ton model. The 25-ton press costs a bit more than I'd like to spend, and for the hobbyist they say the 16-ton model will do everything you need. My shop space is also limited, so the smaller press would fit better. My main use for the press would be for
  2. Quick question - when you have file work along the spine, of a full-tang knife, do you fill the voids with epoxy so that the whole spine is flush, or do you keep the voids free of epoxy? -Jeff
  3. Finished. Blade is 7" long, overall length is 12". This is my fifth completed knife. Now if I can figure out how to make sheaths.
  4. Handle pieces fitted and everything glued up. The handle is curly maple with an African blackwood collar, brass bolster and spacer. The blackwood is a real pain to work with. I snapped two drill bits drilling out the slot.
  5. As I recall , it's 272 layers of 1084/15N20. I ground the grooves 1/4" apart (1/2" offset top and bottom).
  6. So it's been quite awhile since I updated this project. I back-burnered it while I worked on some other knives, but over the last week I fitted the handle parts, and today I etched the blade. I'm pretty happy with the pattern given that this is the first damascus I've made. I plan to glue up the handle tomorrow, and hopefully finish the blade this week.
  7. Huh. I had no idea mesquite would do that. Good to know!
  8. Hmm...I hadn't thought of that. What's a good way to temporarily attach the liners and scales for the profiling? -Jeff
  9. For my next project I'm going to try some things I haven't done before. Specifically this will be a stock removal knife with file work on the spine, nickel silver bolsters, brass liners, and black mesquite scales. Everything I've done previously is forged blades with hidden tangs and slotted bolsters, or pinned wood handles (no bolsters). I've outlined the steps I think I need to take. Can you smarter folks take a look and tell me if I'm on the right track and doing things in the right order? Cut blank to rough shape Grind profile Drill handle holes Drill bolster pin holes Grind blade
  10. I picked up this crappy sword at a renaissance fair about 30 years ago. It has a cast brass handle, and is incredibly heavy. It's been sitting in a corner for years, and I just got the idea to see if I could turn it into something a little better. My thought is to grind a fuller into the blade to see if I can remove some weight, and replace the grip with a more traditional viking-style guard, grip, and pommel. I have no idea what the blade is made out of, but it's not hardened, so I'll have to see if I can heat treat it. The blade is 24" and the tang is 5 3/4".
  11. This is the second blade I've made. It's 15n20/1084 damascus with a ladder pattern. I normalized the blade yesterday and was surprised to see the pattern appear with no scale. I'm pretty pleased with it. After final grinding will probably finish with a curly maple handle and brass fittings (or maybe buffalo horn?).
  12. This is the first knife I've ever made. Just finished it up today. The blade is 10.5" long and the handle is 7". Forged out of 1095 steel, handle is curly maple finished with Tru-Oil, and the bolster is a piece of damascus I made. Lots of flaws; the blade is too thin I think, and I could have done a better job where the blade meets the bolster.
  13. I finished the knife today. I made quite a few mistakes along the way, but I learned a whole lot.
  14. Hmm...the blade was coated with liquid Brownell's anti-scaling compound. I wonder if what I heard was that stuff cracking?
  15. I sanded the blade and can find no line or any other evidence of a crack. Maybe I got lucky! I'll temper again and try the angle iron trick to remove the warp.
  16. Just so I understand, to fix the warp you just clamp the blade against the flat side of a piece of angle iron, and possibly add a shim in there? And you do this after tempering? Do you do any heating at all? I will have to try that on the blade I just tempered. It has a very slight warp in it.
  17. Steel is 1095, quenched in warm peanut oil. I did two normalizing cycles before quenching. After tempering the warp seems less noticeable. Not sure about a crack, there is a line but I can't tell if it's an actual crack or not.
  18. I quenched my first blade today. Sadly it picked up a very slight warp and, worse, I think it cracked. I heard a couple of "tiks" when I stuck it in the oil, and there appears to be a thin line about an inch long next to the spine. I've got it in the oven tempering now. I believe the problem was the blade was simply too thin. In any event, I plan to finish the blade regardless, as it will be a good learning experience. I hope to have better luck with my next blade. It's damascus that I made and much thicker than the first one. Here's the blade after quench:
  19. Great job! I wish my first knife turned out that good. Unfortunately though, I quenched it today and I think it cracked.
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