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Everything posted by jheinen

  1. Thanks everyone! I quenched the blade today, and it appears to have picked up a slight warp. What's worse though is that I heard a couple of "tiks" when I quenched it, so I think it may have cracked. I can see a small line about an inch long next to the spine. I'm running it through two tempering cycles in the oven right now. We'll see how it turns out.
  2. I made this quench tub from a 5 gal. pail, a 2' length of 6" duct pipe, and 50 lbs. of Quikrete. I bedded the pipe in a 2" layer of quikrete, and then filled around the outside of the pipe. So I may attempt my very first quench tonight or tomorrow. I have a seax blade I forged out of 1095 ready to go. The downside is that the blade is probably too thin (the spine is about .12"), so I fully expect it to warp or crack. If so I'll still finish the blade for the learning experience.
  3. Hello, When tempering, should I let the blade cool down to room temperature in the air before starting the next tempering cycle, or is it OK to leave it in the kiln to cool more slowly? It would be quite convenient to program 2-3 tempering cycles in the oven and just let it do it's thing, however it would take a couple of hours to cool down from tempering heat. Thanks.
  4. I guess i got started about 35 years ago on my grandfather's farm. He had a forge for making and repairing things on the farm, and he showed be some basics. He retired and sold the farm, and I didn't really think too much about it until last year when my wife mentioned a local arts school here in Seattle offered blacksmithing classes. I took an intro class, then a basic blacksmithing class, and then a damascus steel class. From there I was hooked. I converted one of the bays in my garage into a shop and have been acquiring stuff over the last few months. I bought a forge, found a great deal on
  5. That'll buff out. Seriously though, this will make me refocus my attention on safety. I know I sometimes get fast and loose on the grinder (aka industrial skin removal machine).
  6. As for me, by day I am the Vice President of Engineering at a small software company in Seattle. I am also a commercial pilot and flight instructor, and teach people to fly on the weekends. In college I majored in medieval history, and planned on a career in academia. My PhD program was about 11 years long, however, with much of that being taken up by learning Latin, Greek, German, French, and Arabic. I didn't have the patience to stick with it that long, and decided on a career in software development which pays a lot more and lets me indulge in my hobbies.
  7. Mostly Viking metal and classic rock for me.
  8. jheinen


    I, too, recently joined and have to say this place feels like home
  9. Any thoughts on handle material? I was hoping to use boxwood, however that stuff seems just about impossible to find in the US, and if you can find it, it's really expensive. What would be a good, readily available inexpensive substitute? I was also considering adding a bronze bolster. -Jeff
  10. Hi Alan, unfortunately I don't see any way to make the pictures bigger. Regardless of the size I upload them, it resizes them in the post. However, if you click on the picture I believe it will show the full size image. -Jeff
  11. Here's what I have after a few minutes on the grinder. I think it's looking much better.
  12. Thanks! I will taper the tang, put some belly in the blade, and round out the shoulders a bit. I worry that the blade may be a little thin. At the tang it's .187" and at the break it's .147" So overall it's tapering from the tang to the tip. Here's a shot of the spine...
  13. Hello everyone, This here is my first ever attempt at making a blade. It's forged out of 1095, 17 1/2" in length overall, with a 12" blade. What do you think of the overall blade geometry? My thought is the tip is too pointy, and I need to grind the break down to a steeper angle. Also, is the tang too wide? I think I'm probably going to burn on a simple wooden handle.
  14. Finally got the garage wired for 240v today. I installed a switch on my KMG and got it fired up. It weell grind!
  15. Pardon me while I collect my jaw from the floor. Well done.
  16. Price is $150. Here are some photos. Sorry that they're upside down. Can't figure out how to fix that:
  17. My vise guy has just finished restoring a 4 1/2" vise ca. 1901. It's in great shape. Let me know if you're interested. -Jeff
  18. Are there any plans for Tommy's press?
  19. I have to make one of those for my vise. What thickness did you use for the top and bottom plates and the tube?
  20. Hey all, My new Hay Budden anvil has a 4/5" hardy hole. Is that common? I've not found any places that sell hardy tools in that size, which means I'll have to make anything I need? The first thing I need is a hot-cut chisel, and I've never made one before. It seems pretty straightforward, however since I don't already have a hot-cut, I have to figure out how to cut a piece of tool steel to length. Could I cut it with my 14" cut-off saw or my bandsaw? Does anyone know a place that sells hardy tools that would fit? -Jeff
  21. Thanks! Earlier than I thought.
  22. My Hay Budden 110 lb. anvil has this serial number: 73762 Anyone know when it was made? -Jeff
  23. I finally got a real anvil and a leg vise today. I found a guy in Chehalis, WA who restores leg vises, and I picked up a very nice 4" for $100. Then he took me to a guy just South of Chehalis who literally has a shed full of anvils for sale. I've never seen so many anvils in one place in my life. He had at least 60-70 of them, everything from Vulcans to Peter Wrights and Hay Buddens. I picked up a beautiful 110 lb. Hay Budden. The face is perfectly flat, great rebound, rings like a bell, with some minor chipping around the edges. The guy sells his anvils for $2-$4 a lb.
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