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Alveprins last won the day on March 8

Alveprins had the most liked content!

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    Forging, Genetics, Astronomy.

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  1. Hi James, I engraved the runes using a Lindsay Airgraver. (counts as practicing as I absolutely suck at using it.... ) Hi Adam, No - it is epoxied through and through.
  2. hi everyone! Alright, so I'm spending somewhat of an eternity working on the sheath of this thing - so I've decided to post at least half of the thing... the knife itself. Let me present - Draumr Gripnir - the "Dream Grip" - with some unintended fingermarks and all! Blade in two bars of folded and twisted railroad steel, with a third bar (edge) of 15n20 and ferrier's rasps. Handle i copper, brass, camel bone and vulcanized fiber. The runes engraved in the brass reads "keep your blade sharp, but your mind sharper". The nut on the end really tested my skills as an aspiring "jewler". Anyhow - sheath and complete measurements to come. Needless to say, this is one heavy knife due to the massive materials in the handle. Sincerely, Alveprins.
  3. Thank you everyone for all your kind words, and I hope that you've all had a wonderful celebration! Thank you! And I am absolutely sure your wife was truly satisfied with your pendant necklace and earrings.
  4. It is Christmas day here in Norway today - so I've spent the past three days forgings this little thing for my wife as a Christmas present. It is a dinner fork - from Ferrier's rasps and 15n20 steel. It was nerve wrecking to start forging the curves after having done so many hours of filework... I wanted to do more, but this is all I had time for. Finished 3AM on Christmas eve... Alright, Happy Holidays people, and have a good one! Sincerely, Alveprins.
  5. Squared off some billets for forge welding, forge welded - and milled a couple of forge welding joints. I have to say - this little milling machine I've gotten myself is a real time saver and adds allot to the accuracy: Damn perfect contact surfaces for forge welding! no more eyeballing and bad welds. Forged out that billet today, and decided to forge weld on a tang. (dont want to waste all that pretty steel!) Not absolutely perfect - but with one whack of the hammer - and those two surfaces are gonna be glued together all nice and tight! Man, this milling machine is "da bomb" as the kids say... (do they say that still? ...)
  6. Thanks Mr. Dougherty! I've tried to "stray" as it were - a bit from my usual routine. Lest there be no progress... I think I will stick to the engraving of the frame though. It gives that little extra "soul" I feel. I've used other woods than Holly as frame before - but I've kind of stuck with this one because it is a bit more akin to a "blank sheet of paper" for engraving purposes. That is absolutely right Mr. Lester. Previously I did not use pins on the back of the handle - but one of my knives without it started to delaminate at the back - so I got paranoid. And now it is standard practise for me when it comes to these laminated handles.
  7. Haha! Thank you! I would however - rather have no flaws. I'll give it a try with the next one.
  8. Ladies and Gentlemen... Let me present Silf Brandr - the Silver Blade! Blade in a san-mai lamination from a 3-bar multibar billet - making the lamination count a total of 7 pieces. My standard railroad steel for the body, with ferrier's rasps and saw-mill steel for the folded edge-steel, with a core of high carbon tool steel. Handle in African Ebony, American Holly, with spacers of vulcanized fiber and brass. the finger guard is in moose antler. Sheath is in tooled and dual colored leather. Mahogany red background, and antique black stain borders. Stitched with Tiger Thread using saddler's stiches. The handle is engraved with Elder Futhark runes in Old Norse and reads: ek em silf brandr. Burin af eldr ok járn. ávalt hvass ok buin til roðinn. I am the silver blade. born of fire and iron. forever sharp and ready to blood-stain. The knife is incredibly light at only 105 grams, with point of balance being spot on the middle of the finger-guard. The knife can be gripped normally with index finger behind the guard, or in front of it. It is mean to be carried horizontally in the belt, on the left side - with the handle pointing a bit out in front of the stomach. Comfortable positioning, and easy access. Unfortunately the blade came out with a few blemishes in terms of bad welds - but I've made sure they do not pose any threat to the functionality of the knife itself other than being cosmetic. I didn't have the heart to scrap it though... Anyhow, any critique and feedback is as always - most welcome. :) And have a wonderful weekend folks!
  9. thanks man! the stand is a table stand used for boats. It can be regulated up and down. I made the white top from a block of 2x4 and a circular cut-out of a wooden board. I'd like something a bit more professional - but at this point I can't afford one of those fancy ones sold by GRS etc...
  10. Hi guys, I recently re-built my workshop as it was really just consisting of two tables on top of eachother with a vice attached to the top one, and a belt grinder resting on the bottom one... I decided that having worked under such conditions for the past few years, it was time to build something more.. "real"... Above is my wood-working area. This is where I do all the wood-work on my knife handles (and other stuff). I am quite happy with the setup, and the addition of a new milling machine (left) has made everything so much more enjoyable. Previously I've done all my leatherwork sitting in my sofa in front of the TV. I figured it was time for a change, so I created this setup in the same building as the wood-working area. The leather is suspended in the ceiling above the station for easy access and saving space. And opposite the "leather station" is my engraving station. With the addition of a Lindsay Classic Airgraver - I needed to create something. So - this is my attempt at such a station. My engraving need a bit more work though, but at least I have somewhere to practice now. :) And last but not the least - a little preview of something I'm working on at the moment. A multibar san-mai skinner... Still need some more file work on the handle, and then there's the sheath of course... :) Alright, that's about it folks! I'll drop a post once the skinner is ready.... :) Sincerely, Alveprins.
  11. One cannot appreciate enough designs based on hands-on experience. I like the "stabber" one...
  12. Thanks man! About the twist stars.. I've forged the curve of the blade - so the steel is naturally bent in that direction. Often when making blades like these that are not multibar - it can be easier to just cut out the shape. But in this case I wanted to get two blades out of one bar - which I did by cutting it across in an angle and forging the curve - as in order not to waste material. so I will be making a knife with a blade similar to this one... the "sibling" I suppose we could say. Thank you Gary. Put short - twist. No wrap - sandwiched. Alveprins.
  13. I just finished a little blade for a guy who had a dream of making his own knife... So I cracked - and forged him this one. The one and only non-mounted blade I'll ever sell. Anyhow - thought it might be of interest to have a peek. Didn't do any fancy photo-shoot for this one, so it's a single mobile phone picture only... The blade is about 13cm long, and 3,something wide. 3,5mm thick. The pattern welded steel is made from an old sawmill blade and 15n20 for contrast. The edge is Øberg steel. Initial hardness after hardening and anealing for 3 hours was 63 HRC. Took me quite a few aditional hours to get it down to around 58... But here we are, all finished and polished up! Anyhow - time for summer vacation and motorcycle tour through the rest of Europe. fixing up my workshop with new benches, shelves, lighting and stuff - and then it's back to new and exciting projects after the summer!
  14. Thanks! #5000 paper, and then rubbed and polished it with furniture wax.
  15. Haha, thanks man! Yeah, the customer's budget didn't really allow for those two extra pattern welded bars I'd usually do. either way, I went way over budget with this one. He got it basically at half price. (I really need to learn when to STOP working on stuff...) Not by design I'm afraid. I etched this bastard for 45 minutes in a 50/50 ferric chloride / water solution - with the acid almost not biting at all on that steel, but eating away at the iron. So, after 45 minutes I gave up and called it quits... Customer was super happy though, so that's all that matters I suppose.
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