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Alveprins

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Everything posted by Alveprins

  1. I'm serious though. I saw this picture in the newspaper the other day, after the storming of the senate by some... not sure what to call'em? Anyhow, the first thing I noticed was the drawer in Nancy Pelosi's office (bottom left corner): I thought, damn... that is a nice drawer! I like the swooping curve, and the top seems to be some kind of burl? I don't know much about furniture, but I do know quality when I see it. Your stuff brought my thoughts straight back to this kind of environment.
  2. Thank all of you for your kind words. Honestly I'd gone a bit different way if it was entirely up to me, but the customer had a budget (which I blew, as usual) and requests which I had to follow.. so.. I had a look at your work Chris, and I must say I am quite impressed! That is some top notch furniture! Would fit right in at the White House. Anyhow - I made a short video of the knife to showcase what it looks like under natural lighting conditions:
  3. Alright, so... better late than never... Let me present "Odal" - the Heritage knife. Details on the blade can be found in my previous post HERE. Handle is in walnut, supplied by customer - treated with oil - also provided by customer (he makes his own). I decided to attempt to further develop both my drawing skill as well as engraving - so I sketched up a Urnes inspired dragon on my pad and put one on each side of the bolster. The back cap (or whatever it is called) on the handle is in the same steel as the blade. I've also done some inlay on this
  4. Haha! Thank you.. However, I think I will put one single rune on this one. The customer provided me with two gold rings he wants me to melt, and use as a part of the knife. I am currently considering making a "badge" of damasc steel, with some inlay borders and one singel "Odal" rune in the middle, filled with his gold. The front bolster will be made from mono-steel, with some inlay. I will do my best to blacken it. I want to try a Japanese method I saw on YouTube once, involving boiling the piece in very strong tea. I fear however - it might work better with iron than steel.
  5. Thanks all! I just received feedback from the customer, and he is more than impressed with the outcome. Now I have to top it off with a striking handle, and a sheath that does not put the rest to shame.. haha!
  6. Well, I've been doing some inlay on an actual blade this time, and made alot of mistakes.. If anyone is curious as to what a complete failure looks like - look no further! : Anyhow, I finally managed to actually finish the damn thing, and the result can be seen in this separate thread:
  7. Alright, so I've been messing around with my Lindsay Airgraver, experimenting allot with brass and copper inlay etc. - and finally I've had an opportunity to put my newly developed skills to the test. I had a customer who wanted something special for himself, and asked me to whip something up for him. Well, lo and behold - here it is. A 10cm blade in san-mai lamination with sawblade steel for the core, and folded and twisted damascus from railroad steel, mixed with farriers rasps and 15n20 steel. I added a video as well - as a still picture simply doesn't give the b
  8. Alright, so my microscope arrived - and I've downloaded a couple of Sam Alfano's instructional videos, namely Scrollwork from start to finish, as well as how to draw scrolls.. Here are the results. So, first off I had to draw my very first scroll. I followed Sam Alfano closely - watching his video on my computer while drawing. I ended up with this - my first scroll. (I skipped the beginner scroll and went straight for the intermediate) Now, having watched his "Engraving scrolls" video from start to finish, I threw myself into doing the now classic "toner acet
  9. Man, now I feel inspired to take the next step - and start creating my own steel... My gods - where will this end?!
  10. I do not need any more "authenticity" in my engravings... Actually, the heel on this particular graver is kind of insane. I'll use another one with shorter heel.
  11. Alright, gave it a shot at some scroll-work today. I've got to say, it is a real challenge making crisp lines with all those turns. I've got some serious heel-drag in the tight spots which I seemingly just cant get rid off. I think I need to go back to the basics and practice some flare cuts etc. to get those right at least, then look into this heel drag issue. The shading is also very challenging. I will be pestering the people over at engravingforum.com, engraverscafe.com as well as engravers group on Facebook once I really start digging in
  12. I like your particular style, especially the handles. Very nice twist to what you would normally see. Very original.
  13. I understand what you mean. A small project for me would be something like 40 - 45 work hours. My current project however, I've already put 55 hours into forging the blade alone, and now I will do engraving, inlay, heat treat, and polish. I expect to spend the next 4 months working on it. But I agree it is a good idea to do lesser projects at the same time, enabling quicker cash flow. I simply cant bring myself to do anything but sole authorship. It is what I base my name and reputation on. I do the blade, the handle, the sheath. And now I am going to start making woode
  14. Your wiggly lines are quite impressive, especially hammer and chisel taken into consideration. It is far easier and faster when using a pneumatic tool. Anyhow, I've given it a go at scroll work etc. It is very challenging. This is my collection of attempts and failures so far: I created these thick square practice plates from leaf springs, and the idea is to simply machine them down using an end mill when I need a new plate. That way I can re-use these plates many many times.
  15. 1. Adequate is gonna have to do for now I think. 2. I see alot of the EDC stuff on Instagram. I don't think it would appeal to a Norwegian audience. We have a quite different approach to life in general up here in the north.. Anyhow, I prefer to stay on major projects, as these allow me to push my skills and progress as a bladesmith. If I make quick and easy stuff - there is no pushing the limits. 3. Alright, here it goes!: My process: I didn't undercut the grooves on this one as my new inlay gravers are still in transit from the US. I did
  16. I found an Amscope that has a 200mm working distance, so I think I will go for that. I saw Lindsay over at airgraver.com had tested a setup from Amscope - and reported that it was satisfactory at least for entry people like myself. It will run me about 550 USD + whatever astronomical shipping over the pond to Norway. I think it will do. The package contains 0.5 barlow as well, so... I'll contact'em and figure out to which degree they can accommodate my needs. I don't think EDC is a thing up here. People usually carry around their wallets, and that's just about it. Anyhow, I'v
  17. 1. I haven't been able to afford a microscope yet, so I'm currently using one of those visors with magnification lenses. 2. Yeah, I gave that a try today, and it works nicely. 3. Speaking of microscopes... There is no way I am going to be able to afford one of those 2000+ USD scopes with boom at the moment. But could this be an alternative for me?: Relife M3T-STL2 Multipurpose Trinocular Boom Stereo Microscope 7-75 Zoom From what I can gather, seems maximum working distance is 100mm. I have a microscope camera down in the lab, so
  18. Thanks, couldn't have done it without you all! One thing that bothers me though, is that as I cut a line; the burr in front of the graver obstructs my view of where the tip if the graver is. As a result allot of the time I operate more or less on gut feeling alone - keeping my focus ahead of the graver - trusting that the actual tip is where it should be. Unless I do this - I'm flipp'in out chips every 4-5 mm, which I can't see being very efficient.
  19. Alright, outlining practice plate number 01 finished. Going to flip it around, and go another round on the other side. This time, perhaps something circular... I think I am going to need a few more km/miles of cutting before I get my depth control at a respectable level. I feel though, that I've gotten a whole lot better at keeping correct distance to the inlay. I am now able to pretty much shave up against the edge of it. The challenge going forward - will be to keep this constant. Thanks for all the feedback guys, it's been invaluable to me!
  20. Alright, I've given it somewhat of a try. I've adjusted pressure down to 10psi, switched to steel piston, lowered the idle (was way too high) and gone pretty thin - and as close as I could: I'll do the rest of the plate tomorrow. I took the opportunity to read up on the user's manual, and man, did I need it.. haha I accidentally gained a bit more understanding of how the little thing works. So far I've been running full throttle at 80 psi with the tungsten piston - cutting both deep and shallow. With 10 psi and steel piston I gained infinitely more contro
  21. 1. Yeah, I figured as much. I want to try to fit in around 1 hour of engraving every day, along with 1 hour of drawing - but it is difficult. I get up at 04:00 to go for a 1h run, lift some weights - and then get in the car and drive to work by 06:00. Then when I arrive at home around 16:30 in the afternoon, I have to eat, pay a minimum of attention to my wife - and then - if I have any energy left in me - I have 2 hours available to either draw, engrave, forge or do general work on knife projects I've got going before having to hit the sack at 20:00. 2. Will do! 3. Al
  22. Thanks! Stipling works if I frame the whole thing - which in my current project will not be possible. I am going to put runes going down nearly the entire length of a 40cm long multibar damascus blade - so I think I am gonna have to do the outlines, or simply leave it flat - and let the etched steel surrounding the inlay create the contrast. I just finished a new practise plate for myself. Going to practise doing the outlining of the inlay: I tried inlaying some brass as well this time, so simulate gold - in terms of contrast relative to th
  23. I just call it "patina". Anyhow, interesting thing this with the types of graver alloys and how they all function. I did all the cuts today with a tungsten graver, althought I did the channels in the steel with a HSS one. I've ordered a bunch of tungsten graver blanks from Lindsay though, as well as som.. what did he call them.. M42? Tougher than HSS. Anyhow, I tried to outline my inlay today.. ended up like this. I started out with the "line" - which was catastrophic. Dug into the copper real quick. I then moved on to the "T", which
  24. That is pretty neat looking, like a little viking dagger sort of? Makes a great chopper for those nights in the woods.
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