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Everything posted by Alveprins

  1. Thanks, couldn't have done it without you all! One thing that bothers me though, is that as I cut a line; the burr in front of the graver obstructs my view of where the tip if the graver is. As a result allot of the time I operate more or less on gut feeling alone - keeping my focus ahead of the graver - trusting that the actual tip is where it should be. Unless I do this - I'm flipp'in out chips every 4-5 mm, which I can't see being very efficient.
  2. Alright, outlining practice plate number 01 finished. Going to flip it around, and go another round on the other side. This time, perhaps something circular... I think I am going to need a few more km/miles of cutting before I get my depth control at a respectable level. I feel though, that I've gotten a whole lot better at keeping correct distance to the inlay. I am now able to pretty much shave up against the edge of it. The challenge going forward - will be to keep this constant. Thanks for all the feedback guys, it's been invaluable to me!
  3. Alright, I've given it somewhat of a try. I've adjusted pressure down to 10psi, switched to steel piston, lowered the idle (was way too high) and gone pretty thin - and as close as I could: I'll do the rest of the plate tomorrow. I took the opportunity to read up on the user's manual, and man, did I need it.. haha I accidentally gained a bit more understanding of how the little thing works. So far I've been running full throttle at 80 psi with the tungsten piston - cutting both deep and shallow. With 10 psi and steel piston I gained infinitely more contro
  4. 1. Yeah, I figured as much. I want to try to fit in around 1 hour of engraving every day, along with 1 hour of drawing - but it is difficult. I get up at 04:00 to go for a 1h run, lift some weights - and then get in the car and drive to work by 06:00. Then when I arrive at home around 16:30 in the afternoon, I have to eat, pay a minimum of attention to my wife - and then - if I have any energy left in me - I have 2 hours available to either draw, engrave, forge or do general work on knife projects I've got going before having to hit the sack at 20:00. 2. Will do! 3. Al
  5. Thanks! Stipling works if I frame the whole thing - which in my current project will not be possible. I am going to put runes going down nearly the entire length of a 40cm long multibar damascus blade - so I think I am gonna have to do the outlines, or simply leave it flat - and let the etched steel surrounding the inlay create the contrast. I just finished a new practise plate for myself. Going to practise doing the outlining of the inlay: I tried inlaying some brass as well this time, so simulate gold - in terms of contrast relative to th
  6. I just call it "patina". Anyhow, interesting thing this with the types of graver alloys and how they all function. I did all the cuts today with a tungsten graver, althought I did the channels in the steel with a HSS one. I've ordered a bunch of tungsten graver blanks from Lindsay though, as well as som.. what did he call them.. M42? Tougher than HSS. Anyhow, I tried to outline my inlay today.. ended up like this. I started out with the "line" - which was catastrophic. Dug into the copper real quick. I then moved on to the "T", which
  7. That is pretty neat looking, like a little viking dagger sort of? Makes a great chopper for those nights in the woods.
  8. Actually, I just softened my test-plate to do a trial outline around the runes. Anyhow, I can cut the outline before hardening. It will not be shiny after that, but the engravings will be in damascus steel anyway, which will be etched - so. Will make little difference. If I want it shiny though, cutting in the inlayed metal itself might be the solution as you suggest. In fact, I think that in hardened steel, the graver would more or less just skit up against the hardened edge of the groove, while the inlayed metal would be cut easily by the graver. Why do you
  9. Thanks for the info Mr. Longmire! I decided to switch from my Lindsay Airgraver punch to a good'old hammer - and smashed the damn wire in. (After using the airgraver to freshen up on the "teeth") I think I'll buy a small ball-peen hammer - or maybe forge myself something small for doing this on the real blade. The hammer I used today was .. a bit big. I ordered some graver blanks and templates from Lindsay today, which will help me with the gold inlay. Seems he's got a couple of graver models specifically designed for the purpose, so... But I s
  10. That is what I learned today... see below. So, to answer your question Mr. Longmire - no, I did not side-cut, because I have yet to make a proper tool for that. If you look at the top right corner picture, you can see that the first line of the rune "E" which ironically looks more like an "M" - did not take properly. So I am going to have to make myself a knife chisel of some sort to get into those bottom corners and carve out a nice dove-tail. The "T" stuck pretty well though, and the bottom line remained solid throughout the quench, annealing
  11. Thanks man, you'll get there. I bought one of those Chinese vices. Only thing I could afford unfortunately. It is no doubt low quality, but it does the job for now. In time I'd love to have one of those Lindsay or GRS vices, but... still waiting to win the lottery... EDIT: Would love to get one of these : 650 USD.
  12. Alright, so I am preparing to do some serious inlay work on a blade I am working on. I've never done this before - so I figured I'd start with some test plates. After making myself a flat point chisel graver and a brass punch today, I cut a deep groove into some 15n20 steel I had lying around, cut into the bottom of the groove from both sides to lift up "teeth", and then proceeded to punch the 1mm copper wire into it. Went surprisingly well. Next step will be to cut grooves in the form of runes into a piece of steel, harden it, and then do inlay - as t
  13. Alright, as this is a quite interesting post - I thought I'd throw my progress into the proverbial basket as well. Four years of progress. First blade was a full tang cooking knife in san-mai lamination with folded and twisted 15n20 and high carbon tool steel. Handle in african Ebony. I folded this steel entirely by hand as I had yet to aquire my pneumatic hammer at that time. Damn, I really punished my arms and shoulders with this one. Latest blade I suppose is known to most of you as I posted it quite recently here on the forum. I was thinking
  14. That train.. I'm afraid.. has already left the station... About 55 hours of forging ago.... Good idea! I will do exactly that! I'll put some before and after pictures in this thread just for good measure.
  15. I agree with the pattern visibility thing.... I worry my lines will be completely gunked up with oil'n stuff though. EDIT: I've posted this question over at engravingforum as well.. I suppose I'll throw it up at engravers café as well to see if anyone over there has any experience.
  16. EDIT: I was imagining taking the full blade up to quenching temperature, and then quenching the edge only in a pan of oil / water. Pan of water, or oil? These are oil quenchening steels. Multibar damascus actually.. How about I quench the edge in the pan first, and as the body turns to a dull red - I submerge it in oil... Dunno if this will enhance the pattern much though, without giving it much increased hardness..
  17. Alright, so I will be doing some engraving and gold inlay on one of my blades, and I am curious as how to go about it... Do I: 1. Engrave the grooves before hardening, and then do gold inlay afterwards? (would get quenching oil and stuff into the grooves, damn near impossible to remove I'd recon.) 2. Engrave and inlay before hardening, and then harden. (will be heating gold and silver along with the rest of the blade, and then quench... *cringe* ) 3. Differentially harden the blade, covering the body with clay - creating a soft body that can be engraved and inlayed e
  18. Nah, but I am planning on cutting a hole in the wall too though... Insulating it with furnace bricks. I need to be able to move long blades through the forge, and a bit into the wall. My forge room is very small, and I actually don't have space to move the furnace anywhere but where it is right now. so...
  19. Alright guys, I'll proceed to grinding the blade then. Thanks for all the good tips. I'll let everyone know how it goes after quench, whether or not it warps. Sincerely, Alveprins.
  20. Btw, do I need to repeat this process.. like 3 times? I have normalized 3 times already without this clamping. The clamping session makes it number 4....
  21. Finally I got around to cutting an extra hole in my gas forge, and creating somewhat of a hinged door on the back side of it. I must say - it is quite something being finally able to forge longer blades! I suppose the next step for me now, will be to create one of those electric heat treating ovens, since I cant fit anything longer than 57 cm in my kitchen one... Sincerely, Alveprins.
  22. Ok, so I've made myself a little setup with two 2x4's and two sheets of sawblade steel. Here is the blade, all clamped down... Going down to have a look right now. Do I wait until it cools down to near room temperature, or what? excited to have a look EDIT: By Odin's eye! It is straight! Thank you so much guys for your input! Invaluable!
  23. In that case - I think I'll cut up a few pieces of thick round-stock steel to throw in there. They'll soak up and keep heat nicely.
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