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Everything posted by Alveprins

  1. I don't know if this might be related, but anyway: http://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?showtopic=33091 I suspect cold-shuts in the billet.
  2. While forging my billet today I noticed something uneasing about it... The day before yesterday I forged together 14 pieces of steel and drew it out into a long bar. Yesterday I cut that into three pieces, and forge-welded them together again to form one billet. Today I drew that billet out - and cut in in three pieces again - wanting to forge weld them tomorrow. HOWEVER....... Take a look at this: Is that hairline what I think it is? Do I've got a cold-shut? Tell me... how bad is this? Do I need to just throw this one away? I've been working on this bastard for a total of 12
  3. Thank you very much for your input DanM and Jim Kelso. I've been considering getting into engraving simply to put that last touch on my knives. This is something I'll get into in the not too distant future though, and not right away. Right now I wish to do gold inlay into my etched logo, and I suppose I will have to do the neccesary cutting work inside the etch by hand. This way I'll get a bit more familiar with the process of cutting in steel as well. I work every day with making and sharpening high presicion tungsten carbide tools for the aerospace industry, so I have a good grasp o
  4. Just how bad is it to lose the red-hot billet into the water bucket? ... Unless there are cracks developed, I'd assume its safe to simply warm it back up and keep going at it? I lost my billet in the bucket next to my anvil today, and I brought it up to welding temperature to make sure any microfractures or whatnot would get fixed in the process of hammering the damn thing out... Sincerely, Alveprins.
  5. I just watched a video on hand engraving, and I wanted to ask where one might aquire a decent air engraver? Price is somewhat of an issue, and since I have not done this before I will not break the bank in an attempt to aquire the best. Even so, I've had a look at some cheap Chinese made air engravers - but I do not know how they actually perform. Sincerely, Alveprins.
  6. *phew!* You just took a load off my shoulders... I guess it will not be as difficult to work with as I had worried it to be. Thank you very much Sir. I never buff at all. I start with rough files, then finer files, needle files, then #120, #300, #600, #1000, #1500 and #2000 paper, before I wax it and polish the wax off by hand.
  7. I am about to embark on a fossilized adventure with my new knife, and I've ordered some fossilized mammoth for the hilt and bolster. However - never having actually worked with mammoth before, I thought it might be wise to get a few tips from the experts first... First of all, how does fossil "behave" under a file? Is it hard to work with? How about a belt sander? Need I be careful not to get it too hot? I presume it can and will crack if too hot? How does it feel to work with? Is it comparable to hardwoods such as ebony for instance? Or is it more like rock? Any tips and tricks to wo
  8. Thank you good Sir! I am not really that good with the hammer - however - the key is in keeping all surfaces clean and free of clank and the sort when forge welding. Use plenty of flux, and make sure the billet is at welding temperature as to avoid cold-shuts. I try to hammer fast and hard for the first weld, making sure the entire stack gets properly smashed together. An angular-grinder does wonders for cleaning up surfaces inbetween welding too! As for a DIY hammer or press - I've thought about this as well. But living in Norway - the parts are hard to come by, and the materials I'd ne
  9. Thank you everyone for the kind remarks. I just got back up from my forge - after pounding a 14 layer stack of #15 and #20 steel for 2-3 hours with very little result. I really need to get that powerhammer shipped from China...
  10. Ok, so since I'm new here - and this is my first post - I thought I'd share my first knife and the process which through I made it. The knife is a 108 layer, twisted double bar damascus in san-mai lamination, differentially hardened with "blue clay". The steel used is #15 and #20 for the damascus, and "Øberg steel" for the edge. Handle is African ebony, with mosaic pins from Russia. I started off with a stack of 12 sheets of #15 and #20 steel welded together at the corners with my arch-welder. I proceeded to hammering it out into a long bar. And then cleaned it up with my angle grind
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