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Posts posted by Alveprins

  1. If it is a shut and you weld it again it should weld ... If is just a weld with more flux in it or more of a boron alloying it should fade after rewelding a drawing. If it is something traped in the weld ... It might be toast ... Unlikely however as that normally shows up as a dark line rather than the white line you have.

    Excellent Sir! Thank you very much. ^_^

  2. Thanks guys... :)


    However - say that it is a coldshut... Is the whole billet lost?

    I am planning on stacking these, welding them together, and drawing it out real long and thin, then twist it. Going for a dual twist thingy, with a little something inbetween. ;)

  3. While forging my billet today I noticed something uneasing about it...


    The day before yesterday I forged together 14 pieces of steel and drew it out into a long bar.

    Yesterday I cut that into three pieces, and forge-welded them together again to form one billet.

    Today I drew that billet out - and cut in in three pieces again - wanting to forge weld them tomorrow.



    Take a look at this:



    Is that hairline what I think it is? Do I've got a cold-shut? Tell me... how bad is this? Do I need to just throw this one away? I've been working on this bastard for a total of 12 hours now... :unsure:


    Ok people... be truthful... and I screwd? :huh:

    EDIT: Billet piece #1's picture is upside-down btw, so the suspected coldshut is on one side only, apparently permiating the entire billet.


    Sincerely, Alveprins.

  4. Thank you very much for your input DanM and Jim Kelso. :)


    I've been considering getting into engraving simply to put that last touch on my knives. This is something I'll get into in the not too distant future though, and not right away. Right now I wish to do gold inlay into my etched logo, and I suppose I will have to do the neccesary cutting work inside the etch by hand. This way I'll get a bit more familiar with the process of cutting in steel as well.


    I work every day with making and sharpening high presicion tungsten carbide tools for the aerospace industry, so I have a good grasp of the importance of geometry. I will thus be able to make my own carbide tools from scratch at work. ;)


    As for pneumatic engravers - my own research also concludes that the Lindsay Airgraver is most likely the best choice for when that time comes. It is however pricey. I will attempt to sell a few knives and see if I can finance it that way. ^_^


    Great links btw. I'll be checking in on those engraving forums later. Right now - I need to go continue on my damascus billet. :lol:


    Sincerely, Alveprins.

  5. Just how bad is it to lose the red-hot billet into the water bucket? ... Unless there are cracks developed, I'd assume its safe to simply warm it back up and keep going at it?


    I lost my billet in the bucket next to my anvil today, and I brought it up to welding temperature to make sure any microfractures or whatnot would get fixed in the process of hammering the damn thing out... :lol:


    Sincerely, Alveprins.


  6. I just watched a video on hand engraving, and I wanted to ask where one might aquire a decent air engraver? Price is somewhat of an issue, and since I have not done this before I will not break the bank in an attempt to aquire the best. :)


    Even so, I've had a look at some cheap Chinese made air engravers - but I do not know how they actually perform.


    Sincerely, Alveprins.

  7. Mammoth is quite nice under the file. Scrapes well and takes a fine polish. Much like denser wood. Not at all like rock.

    Heat is to be avoided. Try to finish as much as possible with paper so a minimum of buffing is necessary.

    *phew!* You just took a load off my shoulders... I guess it will not be as difficult to work with as I had worried it to be. :D Thank you very much Sir.

    I never buff at all. I start with rough files, then finer files, needle files, then #120, #300, #600, #1000, #1500 and #2000 paper, before I wax it and polish the wax off by hand. ;)

  8. I am about to embark on a fossilized adventure with my new knife, and I've ordered some fossilized mammoth for the hilt and bolster. However - never having actually worked with mammoth before, I thought it might be wise to get a few tips from the experts first...


    First of all, how does fossil "behave" under a file? Is it hard to work with? How about a belt sander? Need I be careful not to get it too hot? I presume it can and will crack if too hot?

    How does it feel to work with? Is it comparable to hardwoods such as ebony for instance? Or is it more like rock?


    Any tips and tricks to working with this material is greatly appreciated! ^_^

  9. Very nice work. The intermediate stage bars are very crisp and clean which tells me you have much better forging skill than I do.


    I feel your pain on doing this by hand because I don't have a press or power hammer either. I am lusting after building a press, but the funds are not there right now. I did find that I can move metal surprisingly faster with a 2kg hammer than I can with a 1.5kg.

    Thank you good Sir! I am not really that good with the hammer - however - the key is in keeping all surfaces clean and free of clank and the sort when forge welding. Use plenty of flux, and make sure the billet is at welding temperature as to avoid cold-shuts. I try to hammer fast and hard for the first weld, making sure the entire stack gets properly smashed together. :) An angular-grinder does wonders for cleaning up surfaces inbetween welding too! :)


    As for a DIY hammer or press - I've thought about this as well. But living in Norway - the parts are hard to come by, and the materials I'd need to buy - either used OR new - would be quite expensive. Which is why I got a price-quote for a 16kg air hammer from China the other day. Price is 1550USD including shipping to Norway - so I just put in the deposit wire-transfer minutes ago. :)


    But I see many people in the US make tyre-hammers amongst other things. Could turn out cheap enough. Maybe someone in the community might even lend a hand.. Who knows. :)

  10. Ok, so since I'm new here - and this is my first post - I thought I'd share my first knife and the process which through I made it.
    The knife is a 108 layer, twisted double bar damascus in san-mai lamination, differentially hardened with "blue clay".
    The steel used is #15 and #20 for the damascus, and "Øberg steel" for the edge.
    Handle is African ebony, with mosaic pins from Russia.


    I started off with a stack of 12 sheets of #15 and #20 steel welded together at the corners with my arch-welder.


    I proceeded to hammering it out into a long bar.


    And then cleaned it up with my angle grinder, cut it in three and stacked them arch-welding the corners again.


    I then drew it out into a long bar again.


    Cleaned and cut in three once more, and ofc. arch-welded the billet.


    Now having rougly 108 layers of steel, I drew it out to a square stock and cut it in half.


    I then proceeded to twisting the two halves.


    Some more twisting...


    And then some more - until I was satisfied with them.


    I then took the two twisted bars with me to work and borrowed the belt sander a bit... (mine sucks. Building a new one...)


    And then forge welded those two bars together, and drew it out once more.


    Cleaned it up, cut it in half, and inserted the middle steel for the edge. (Øberg steel.)


    Used the angle grinder once more to get everyting nice and even.


    I used too little steel ofc... and had to forge weld three plates of #15 steel, pound them out to the correct diameter - and then forge weld the new "extra length" onto the actual damascus billet. I then drew the outline of the knife.


    I then proceeded to cut the knife out - using my trusty angle-grinder.


    And taking it back to work once more - to borrow the belt sander. :D


    I then wrapped it in clay, which cracked up - so I had to wire it in place. (ceramic "blue clay")


    I quenced in regular "food oil" I bought at the super market.



    Then heat-treated the blade in my kitchen oven at +200 celcius for 2 hours.


    Polished it to 12000grit on my #220, #1000, #3000, #8000 and #12000 Naniwa Japanese sharpening stones.(oh, and #600 paper between #220 and #1000)



    And then etched the blade in 30% hydrochloric acid - neutralizing with windex and wiping off the blade with soft paper.


    I then glued on the ebony handle scales - attaching it to the full tang using mosaic pins I got off E-bay from Russia...




    And then finished the handle using files and sand paper up to #600. (Going to apply #1200 at work tomorrow before applying some wax or oil to it as well...)


    No power-hammer or hydraulic press was used. Only 1,5kg hammer, tongs, and a modified plummer's wrench for twisting the steel.


    A few mistakes was made along the way - and the knife has a few flaws... Flaws that will not be repeated in the next one. (I've allready ordered materials for it. Fossilized mammoth amongst other things. :) )

    My biggest disapointment though - is the lack of hamon. Perhaps it will not show on this type of steel - oil-quenched. I quenched one blade in water though - but it broke - and I didn't want to repeat that...

    I definitively need to come up with some better clay... This one crack's up way too much.


    So - after having done this project I now have a 1.5kw electric motor down in the basement, waiting for the belt-sander metal framework and wheels to arrive in the mail from Croatia. I've also been in contact with a company in China about importing a 16kg C41-16 air-hammer. Forge folding those billets is really timeconsuming when done by hand, and I figured I can save quite a bit of time by getting a powerhammer to do the rough work on.


    Any comments or general feedback is greatly appreciated. :D


    Sincerely, Alveprins - Norway.


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