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Everything posted by Alveprins

  1. Guys, I've run into a horrible problem. Currently I am working on the biggest commission of my life, and this blade keeps twisting along it's axis no matter how many times I re-heat and hammer it down flat. So, I've created this 40cm long blade, with 20cm long tang, consisting of 3 bars folded and twisted steel - as pr. my usual blades. Currently I am trying to normalize the blade before moving forward with grinding the ricasso and edge onto it - however - the blade keeps twisting along it's axis every time I re-heat and hang it by the tang from the ceiling to cool
  2. Thanks guys, I doubt temperature is going to be consistent anywhere in my kitchen oven... :P
  3. Hi guys, As many others , I temper my blades in my kitchen oven. I lay them flat on a grate in the middle. However - at the moment I am working on a quite long blade, and I was wondering.. Can I let the blade stay in an angle inside the oven from bottom inner right corner, to outer upper left corner? Or MUST it lay flat? Your answers - gentlemen - will decide whether or not I forge weld a tang on that long bastard tomorrow morning. ;) haha! :) Alveprins
  4. Added another 500... so, it is sitting at 5000 USD now. I dunno about the pricing though. Maybe it's a bit too much in general.. I always have problems pricing my stuff.
  5. Thank you very much Gerhard! It certainly is for my own part. And in a few months, there will be another. Haha! Right on, dude! I did make a few mistakes, but hopefully I've learned from it. I expect the next one to be at least slightly better. Didn't hear back from the guy.. Probably he was just fishing. I will add the booklet to the online advert though, and we'll see. Colleges at work advice me to try Instagram.
  6. At this moment, I'm asking 4500 USD for the knife. The certificate will simply have to serve as a "discount" as I am not raising that price. I fear however - that the Norwegian market is not big enough for something like this. Most people buy their knives at the equivalent of WallMart at a price of 7,50 USD. ...which is understandable, naturally, as I could never afford anything like this myself personally either..
  7. Alright, so I got a question from a potential customer as to whether or not the knife comes with a certificate of authenticity... given the absolutely horrendous price-tag. -So, I decided to make one. It has been a learning experience, no doubt about that. And after 42 hours of work, here is the result. Draumr Gripnir - Certificate of Authenticity: Specs: Leather: 2mm vegetable tan, dyed and painted with acrylic paint. Paper type: Original Crown Mill 100% pure cotton, 100gsm, Ivory color. Page size: A6 Pages: 48 Metal details:
  8. Alright, with the help of my wife (light-holder ); I've managed to snap a few more pics: Alright, that's about it... And on that note - good night everyone. Need to get an early start tomorrow. Have a good one everyone! Chiao!
  9. Haha, thank you! I don't know about that though... There are still more imperfections than I can count... But I will get it right next time! I think...
  10. Alright folks, sheath is done! This was a complex one, and I must say that this is to date my "Magnum Opus" as they say... I decided to go all out on the sheath, cutting out a copper frame from a solid 2mm sheet. Engraving deep grooves for the thread, and filing all edges. I've polished the edges to a mirror shine, with the flat surfaces more matte - as to create contrast. Leather is dyed white in order to match the handle as much as possible. The plaque in the middle of the sheath reads "Draumr Gripnir" - the Dream Grip. There is another plaque o
  11. Thank you Chris, that is very flattering to hear.
  12. Hi everyone, Though't I'd throw this one out there... Finished it during my "summer vacation" - effectively canceled thanks to Mr. Covid-19.... Long story short though. I've got a colleague of sorts who has helped me quite a bit throughout my career, and as he is leaving due to retirement, I thought he'd need something for his future free time in the wild. I give you "The Knuckle" - which incidentally is his nickname through many years in the industry. Blade is in a san-mai lamination with tool-steel for the core, and the folded steel is a mixtur
  13. These bolts look really interesting, however.. I am having difficulty beliving that these will actually hold over time. Won't the material (cast iron) simply get destroyed inbetween the threads of these bolts - and simply disintegrate?
  14. No idea, didn't fire it off... too expensive...
  15. Alright, so I got tired of working with leather, and got tired of forging my new blade... so.. arrow-head! Figured I might need to forge some of these in the future if the apocalypse proves to be imminent... Just for fun. Chiao!
  16. Good input and advice Aiden, I'll give it a try!
  17. Alright, so I've forged for an hour and a half on this piece of WASP Alloy - and I noticed this on the brace of my hammer: Seems it has been scraping a bit of paint from the top of the brace. Note though, that the paint is rather thick, and obviously soft in comparison with the cast iron and steel. Perhaps I should have ground off the paint before placing the brace - so that it would be in direct contact with the cast iron body, not having a "spacer" of thick paint in between?
  18. Hi guys, I am currently working on a little letter-opener which I've decided to forge out of a piece WASP Alloy, also fondly known among those who've had the misfortune of having to work with the stuff - as "Crack-Alloy". Now, this is the first time I work with the stuff - and I have to say - this is some hard *ss stuff! I read that the metal is ordinarily worked in the 1850 - 2150 o F. (1010 - 1176 o C) Now, I burned my furnace as hot at possible, running the Propane gas at 25 PSI (1,75 bar). I don't know the temperature exactly, but m
  19. Thanks! You guys will be the first to know if I get more problems - be certain of that!
  20. The long crack that goes across the entire hammer - goes from service hatch to service hatch - so it ends there - on each side. The crack on the side of the hammer goes from a bit around the corner, down to the service hatch. I have not yet drilled the "start" if you will - of the second crack. I have to rotate the hammer around in order to do it. I will have to build a kind of scaffold, and lift it using a lifting tackle. Everything is closed atm, and I'll need to go buy wood for that.
  21. I went with thick saw-blade steel. Heated to critical, and cooled down. I forged the piece for the "angled" area of the hammer, and used a square cut-out for the flat area on the side. Bolts are 10mm as 13 seemed a bit too big. You can see the dimensions on the pictures below. I did not put metal sheet on the inside though. I ground down two of the bolts so they did not touch the strut inside the body. Middle one was kept normal. Foundation is one huge wood block. I made it like that so I would not have to dig and cast concrete. Yeah, the saw-
  22. Guys... I am in serious trouble. Remember the 16kg Chinese Airhammer I bought a few years ago? Well - it seems to be cracking into two pieces. I only noticed this today. Pic below: Ignore the crack around the cover. Thats just he paint and stuff since I've used the access hatch. It is the "hairline" crack that extends all the way from the back of the hammer, into the access hatch, then continues at the bottom along the wall behind the anvil. It goes all the way around to the identical access hatch on the other side of the hammer. I am at
  23. That is a lovely piece Sir. Great work!
  24. Hi James, I engraved the runes using a Lindsay Airgraver. (counts as practicing as I absolutely suck at using it.... ) Hi Adam, No - it is epoxied through and through.
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