Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Posts posted by Alveprins

  1. 15 minutes ago, Alan Longmire said:

    Or make a twisting wrench. Just a slot on some flat bar that fits the blade.  Make two. Put one in the vise, and hold the other one.  With these you can even straighten it cold.  You'll want these if it warps in the quench anyway.

    Mr. Longmire, do you have any examples of how such twisting wrenches would look like?


    EDIT: On second thought - I'm pretty sure I understand what you mean. :)

  2. 11 minutes ago, jake cleland said:

    Straighten in a vice at normalising heat, just above critical, and repeat until it stops twisting - heating to welding heat and hammering is just compounding the stresses that are causing this...


    Thanks for the feedback!


    So, my vice jaws are much smaller than the blade.. that is, the blade is 4cm wide, and the jaws of the vice are maybe half of that.

    I suppose I will have to create jaw inserts? Like, large flat pieces of steel?

  3. Guys, I've run into a horrible problem.

    Currently I am working on the biggest commission of my life, and this blade keeps twisting along it's axis no matter how many times I re-heat and hammer it down flat.


    So, I've created this 40cm long blade, with 20cm long tang, consisting of 3 bars folded and twisted steel - as pr. my usual blades.


    Currently I am trying to normalize the blade before moving forward with grinding the ricasso and edge onto it - however - the blade keeps twisting along it's axis every time I re-heat and hang it by the tang from the ceiling to cool down.




    I heat it up to welding temperature, beat the damn thing nice and flat, stick it back into the fire to get it to above critical again - then I hang it up to cool down. By the time the blade has cooled down, it has twisted itself right back into it's original warped shape.


    At the moment I am at a complete loss as to what to do.


    Please have a look at the video below to see in what exact way the blade is twisted / warped:



    Any kind of input on this would be greatly appreciated! :unsure:


    Sincerey, Alveprins.

  4. Hi guys,


    As many others , I temper my blades in my kitchen oven. I lay them flat on a grate in the middle.


    However - at the moment I am working on a quite long blade, and I was wondering.. Can I let the blade stay in an angle inside the oven from bottom inner right corner, to outer upper left corner? Or MUST it lay flat?


    Your answers - gentlemen - will decide whether or not I forge weld a tang on that long bastard tomorrow morning. ;) haha! :)





    22 hours ago, Gerhard Gerber said:

    Next level in every way.......

    Thank you very much Gerhard! It certainly is for my own part. And in a few months, there will be another. ^_^


    22 hours ago, Dave Stephens said:

    This, sir, is a "flex." 


    Translation: "A gratuitous display of competence in order to quiet any question of your abilities."


    Speaking in the vernacular of my generation: That's bad ass, dude...

    Haha! Right on, dude! ;)B)



    12 hours ago, JeffM said:

    Alve it doesn't get any better than that....outstanding job


    I did make a few mistakes, but hopefully I've learned from it. I expect the next one to be at least slightly better. ;) :lol:


    5 hours ago, Joshua States said:

    In that case, I am of the opinion that if the booklet pushes him to the point of signing the check, it was well worth it.



    Didn't hear back from the guy.. Probably he was just fishing.

    I will add the booklet to the online advert though, and we'll see.

    Colleges at work advice me to try Instagram.

  6. 2 hours ago, Joshua States said:

    That all depends on how much you charge.......:o

    At this moment, I'm asking 4500 USD for the knife. The certificate will simply have to serve as a "discount" as I am not raising that price.

    I fear however - that the Norwegian market is not big enough for something like this. Most people buy their knives at the equivalent of WallMart at a price of 7,50 USD. :rolleyes:


    ...which is understandable, naturally, as I could never afford anything like this myself personally either.. :lol:

  7. Alright, so I got a question from a potential customer as to whether or not the knife comes with a certificate of authenticity... given the absolutely horrendous price-tag. :lol:

    -So, I decided to make one.


    It has been a learning experience, no doubt about that. And after 42 hours of work, here is the result.


    Draumr Gripnir - Certificate of Authenticity:



    Leather: 2mm vegetable tan, dyed and painted with acrylic paint.

    Paper type: Original Crown Mill 100% pure cotton, 100gsm, Ivory color.

    Page size: A6

    Pages: 48

    Metal details: Engraved and polished brass.

    Stitching: Black Tiger thread.

    Draumr Gripnir - Certificate-1.jpg


    Draumr Gripnir - Certificate-3.jpg


    Draumr Gripnir - Certificate-4.jpg


    Draumr Gripnir - Certificate-5.jpg


    Draumr Gripnir - Certificate-6.jpg


    The booklet shows most of the process, with some explanations etc. Kind of like a diary.


    This is the first one I've made, and I am thinking of making it a standard of my more fancy knives.


    Any comments, tips and critique is more than welcome. :)





    • Like 8
  8. Alright folks, sheath is done! :)


    This was a complex one, and I must say that this is to date my "Magnum Opus" as they say...


    I decided to go all out on the sheath, cutting out a copper frame from a solid 2mm sheet. Engraving deep grooves for the thread, and filing all edges. I've polished the edges to a mirror shine, with the flat surfaces more matte - as to create contrast.

    Leather is dyed white in order to match the handle as much as possible.


    The plaque in the middle of the sheath reads "Draumr Gripnir" - the Dream Grip.

    There is another plaque on the top of the belt strap - which reads "Gripa Mik" - Grip / Grasp me.


    I did not initially plan on using brass for the strap across the handle - however I figured I might as well throw in the kitchen sink while I'm at it.


    Anyhow - this project has now finally come to completion, and I have exhausted all of my capabilities with this one, and truly pushed my limits.

    Now what remains is to unload this one on someone with more money than wits... :lol:The gods only know how many hours I've put into it. :blink:


    Draumr Gripnir-2.jpg


    Draumr Gripnir-1.jpg


    I will be shooting some more fancy pictures tomorrow. I need help with the lighting, and unfortunately the wife has gone to sleep - so... This is the best I could do for now.


    As always, feel free to critique as I am constantly trying to better myself. :)


    And on that note, good night.. for now.



    • Like 1
  9. 22 hours ago, Chris Christenberry said:

    Beautiful knife.  Bet your friend is going to be pleased.  I like your style.  In fact, I've got several pictures I've collected of your knives over the past year in my files for future reference.

    Thank you Chris, that is very flattering to hear. :)

    • Like 1
  10. Hi everyone,


    Though't I'd throw this one out there... Finished it during my "summer vacation" - effectively canceled thanks to Mr. Covid-19....


    Long story short though. I've got a colleague of sorts who has helped me quite a bit throughout my career, and as he is leaving due to retirement, I thought he'd need something for his future free time in the wild.


    I give you "The Knuckle" - which incidentally is his nickname through many years in the industry.


    Blade is in a san-mai lamination with tool-steel for the core, and the folded steel is a mixture of tool-steel and jet-engine super-alloy which I've yet to identify.


    Handle is in buckeye burl, with copper bolster, brass and vulcanized fiber spacers.

    I decided to leave the blade a bit "raw" as it were, as this colleague of mine is both rough and sharp. I thought it fitting that the blade reflects his personality.


    Only thing that I am not satisfied with is the placement of the plaque on the sheath. It feels... I don't know... "out of place" to me... But.. lesson for the future I guess.


    A current knife I'm working on has a similar plaque in the middle of the sheath, although in that case I've made the sheath symmetrical even though the knife itself is single edged...


    Oh, and I decided to put my "logo" on the butt of the knife in this case. I doubt my etching would have penetrated the scales left on the body of the blade.

    The logo is basically my initials engraved into the wood and filled in with a copper-epoxy mixture. I am pretty happy with it.


    Anyhow, that's all for now. :)














    • Like 8
  11. On 6/25/2020 at 7:47 AM, Paul Carter said:

    It may be a little late for this, but this is one way we fix cracked cast iron cylinder heads and engine blocks. Works very well and is very strong. The pins actually pull each half together as you tighten them.


    These bolts look really interesting, however.. I am having difficulty beliving that these will actually hold over time.

    Won't the material (cast iron) simply get destroyed inbetween the threads of these bolts - and simply disintegrate?


  12. Alright, so I got tired of working with leather, and got tired of forging my new blade... so.. arrow-head!

    Figured I might need to forge some of these in the future if the apocalypse proves to be imminent... ;)


    Arrow-Head 01.jpg


    Arrow-Head 02.jpg

    Arrow-Head 03.jpg


    Just for fun. :)



    • Like 4
  13. 3 hours ago, Aiden CC said:

    ...I'm not sure about this alloy, but work hardening is something that might also be in play.


    ...it seems like working above the maximum recommended working temperature causes hot short problems like you are having, which may also be a result of coming out of the forge too hot or even an increase in temperature from the deformation of forging....Maybe you could use your IR thermometer to make sure you don't work it over 1050C?...

    Good input and advice Aiden, I'll give it a try! :)

  14. 1 hour ago, Alan Longmire said:

    I would just keep an eye on it and tighten the bolts every so often.


    1 hour ago, Brian Myers said:

    Yeah. There will always be a bit of flex...but from the looks of that paint roll its maybe three mil? If it bothers you, heavier patches and more bolts can always be added. For now just keep the bolts tight like Alan said.


    Alright, will do. :)

  15. Alright, so I've forged for an hour and a half on this piece of WASP Alloy - and I noticed this on the brace of my hammer:


    Hammer Brace.jpg


    Seems it has been scraping a bit of paint from the top of the brace. Note though, that the paint is rather thick, and obviously soft in comparison with the cast iron and steel.

    Perhaps I should have ground off the paint before placing the brace - so that it would be in direct contact with the cast iron body, not having a "spacer" of thick paint in between?


  16. Hi guys,


    I am currently working on a little letter-opener which I've decided to forge out of a piece WASP Alloy, also fondly known among those who've had the misfortune of having to work with the stuff - as "Crack-Alloy".

    Wasp Alloy.jpg


    Now, this is the first time I work with the stuff - and I have to say - this is some hard *ss stuff!



    I read that the metal is ordinarily worked in the 1850 - 2150 o F. (1010 - 1176 o C)


    Now, I burned my furnace as hot at possible, running the Propane gas at 25 PSI (1,75 bar). I don't know the temperature exactly, but my infrared thermometer maxes out at 1050 o C, and it was well beyond that. Must've been somewhere around 1350 - 1400 o C in there.


    I forged the bastard at white hot - and yet it barely moved under the 16kg air hammer.


    Anyone else have experience with this alloy?


    Sincerely, Alveprins.




  17. 2 hours ago, Brian Myers said:

    ...Did you drill out the ends of the crack to stop its progress??

    The long crack that goes across the entire hammer - goes from service hatch to service hatch - so it ends there - on each side.


    The crack on the side of the hammer goes from a bit around the corner, down to the service hatch.

    I have not yet drilled the "start" if you will - of the second crack. I have to rotate the hammer around in order to do it. I will have to build a kind of scaffold, and lift it using a lifting tackle. Everything is closed atm, and I'll need to go buy wood for that.

  18. On 4/28/2020 at 9:23 PM, Alan Longmire said:

    ...The cheap way to try and save it is a two-part process: ...get a piece of thick mild steel plate big enough to cover the crack with 5 to 10 cm to spare on both sides of the crack.  Drill larger, say 13mm or so, holes through both the plate and the casting spaced every 3cm... This might be hard to do on that angle behind the lower die, but it beats welding...

    I went with thick saw-blade steel. Heated to critical, and cooled down.

    I forged the piece for the "angled" area of the hammer, and used a square cut-out for the flat area on the side.

    Bolts are 10mm as 13 seemed a bit too big. You can see the dimensions on the pictures below.

    I did not put metal sheet on the inside though.


    On 4/28/2020 at 9:29 PM, Gazz said:

    ...to be sure that metal chips or the bolts themselves do not interfere with the internal workings...

    What is your hammer foundation like?

    I ground down two of the bolts so they did not touch the strut inside the body. :) Middle one was kept normal.

    Foundation is one huge wood block. I made it like that so I would not have to dig and cast concrete.


    On 4/28/2020 at 11:24 PM, Brian Myers said:

    ...then clench that thing down tight with some uber thick bracing and a multitude of bolts.

    Yeah, the saw-blade steel I used is pretty thick. Almost as thick as the original casting. I felt I've perhaps used a bit too few bolts? I decided to go with Mr. Longmire's suggestion of 13mm, although I scaled it down slightly to 10mm. If I had went with 8mm - I could have placed more bolts. But they would not be as thick, or able to withstand the amount of tightening I've put into those 10mm self-locking nuts.


    On 4/28/2020 at 11:49 PM, Jeremy Blohm said:

    ...What brand hammer is this one? Mine is a TZ Runfa .

    ZhaoZhuang Make Machinery (Chinese producer)


    On 4/29/2020 at 10:06 AM, James Higson said:

    ...My tuppence would be, bolt the living hell out of it as alan said. 

    Done! :)


    Hammer Bolted.jpg


    I really hope this does it, and that I will not get more problems - at least not for a few more years. Fingers crossed! ^_^


    Thank you for all the quick, thorough and extremely helpful tips and feedback everyone! And of course - moral support! :D


    Now I just need to use it for a while, and see what happens I suppose.... :mellow:


    Sincerely, Alveprins.


    • Like 1
  19. Guys...


    I am in serious trouble.

    Remember the 16kg Chinese Airhammer I bought a few years ago?

    Well - it seems to be cracking into two pieces. I only noticed this today. Pic below:

    Cracked Hammer Image.jpg


    Ignore the crack around the cover. Thats just he paint and stuff since I've used the access hatch.

    It is the "hairline" crack that extends all the way from the back of the hammer, into the access hatch, then continues at the bottom along the wall behind the anvil. It goes all the way around to the identical access hatch on the other side of the hammer.


    I am at a total loss of what to do here, as there is no way I can afford another hammer in this current economy, and without it I think I'm pretty much screwed.... :(


    I consulted a friend of mine who does a bit of welding on his spare time, and informed him that I think it is made from cast iron. He said that I'd need a specialist welder to do this kind of job. Also - from what YouTube tells me - it's pretty much a 50/50 chance of success when welding cast iron...


    What to do? Any tips and/or suggestions?


    Sincerely, Alveprins.

    • Sad 1
  • Create New...