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alangwhitney@yahoo.com

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    alangwhitney@yahoo.com

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    "Despite what your momma taught you, violence does solve some problems." BMCS Jewwett

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  1. Thanks guys! As I said, the shell and guard started as a single piece of 3/16" flat mild steel. I had to layout a flat pattern, cut out and form accordingly. I copied the pictures of the guard from Nuemann's book and enlarged them to true size as a guide for the pattern. The shell was dished on a concave form, bent upwards and then the hand needle-filing began...LOL. I need to work through fullering more...the next one I am looking at has a small fuller near the spine and a wide fuller mid-blade...any recommendations out there? Thanks again!
  2. My first sword...about 45 hours in on it. Based on a hunting sword in Nuemann's Swords and Blades of the American Revolution. Original had antler handle but I wanted to try this. Started with a 1"x1/4" bar of 1070, a foot square sheet of 3/16 mild steel, some 1" mild round stock and a hunk of ebony...handle ribbon is silver. Hand cut the fuller with jig I saw on here and built.
  3. Just sold this REVWAR Belt dagger I made based on a picture in "Swords and Blades of the American Revolution" by Newmann. (photo attached) My first double sided blade, it was a challenge to keep the ridgeline straight. I must admit, it started as a kit...see picture...LOL. It was a $1 flea market file, some pipe, a piece of 1017 flat stock and a chunk of curly Maple. I left a few of the file diamonds in the piece to show it's origins and made the sheath with a flap on the front (to hold it in your belt" and a belt loop for regular wear on the back. The blade was aged by two hours in cider vinegar and a scrub back with a greenie. Put it on a blanket at a reenactment event with what I thought was pretty hefty price as I wasn't sure if I wanted to sell it. It was gone in an hour...LOL..That'll learn me! Alan Dagger file.zip
  4. Thanks for the input! After etching, I think your right about the center. Below shows first dry fitting. Still shaping guard, taking rough grind marks out and final fitting. The handle is curly maple with aqua fortis....not incredibly happy with it. I am thinking of switching to Ebony. If so, I will twist some silver wire for the bottom of the groove.
  5. Making my first dagger (8.5" blade) and wondering if there is a way to draw back the center to toughen the blade? It is made from an old file, heat treated and tempered at 350* for two hours. Thanks!
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