Jump to content

Doug Crawford

Members
  • Content Count

    201
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Doug Crawford

  1. So the stuff was a breeze to work with. The traditional 14th anniversary gift is Ivory- my wife’s truck got totaled last year, nicknamed Ellie(like an Elephant, big and grey) got her a 2500 diesel to replace it, which her dad nicknamed Jurassic Ellie. I figured a pair of mammoth tusks to hang from the rear view mirror would be fitting. 14k white gold wire and beads.
  2. Here’s a years worth of photos from the TN, OH, IL, and Ms rivers
  3. Can anyone ID this Axe? My father in law bought it in 1973. Thanks!
  4. Hi everyone! its been a while since I’ve posted anything, my new career in towboating has taken over most of my time for the past couple years. I’ve managed to squeeze in a couple knives here and there. Boning knife- 1095 with Cocobolo scales 8” chef- 1095 with Pink Ivory scales Paring and Utility- matches a previously made 8” chef and 6.5” Santoku- 1084 and Black Walnut Gift for one of my captains, made from winch wire off a barge.
  5. Hello! Has anyone here carved mammoth ivory? I have a small project to do for an anniversary gift, and have no idea where to start for tooling. I dont want to ruin a chunk of material by choosing the wrong equipment. Thanks!
  6. I’d hold out just a little longer until you can spend $575, the grizzly 2x72 works well for that price.
  7. Also if you don’t have one, this is the best $4 I’ve spent at harbor freight https://m.harborfreight.com/spring-loaded-center-punch-621.html?utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot provided
  8. Cobalt bits should last for a little while, with cutting oil and low speed. Carbide bits last longer but are brittle, have to be careful
  9. I got O1 from fastenal. They had 1/2” and 5/8” in stock in 3 foot sections.
  10. Fresh water, but also don’t ever come into contact with any water except rain. If we end up in the river something has gone very wrong. Just a bar of the steel is about $100 with shipping, then cost to heat treat, and I’d still be unsure if it would perform well enough to justify the cost. The CPM D2 looks like it would be a little better than standard D2, and not super expensive, $45 per bar.
  11. I might give the D2 a try. The CPM looks a little expensive.
  12. That one was for the captain that put me in for my first raise. He also is how I ended up with 20 feet of cable. I’ve still been looking for the perfect metal for cutting our lines. I’m using one Gabe made at the moment, it’s a traditional rigging knife style, 1095, works well on almost everything that I use it for regularly. There’s one type of heavy line that has a thick polypropylene core that is extremely abrasion resistant. It dulled 80crv2 before it could cut through it one time. thats the heavy stuff and what im using right now
  13. Hello everyone! It’s been a while since I’ve posted anything- I took a new job on a towboat, which has cut into shop time significantly. I’ve been working on these two off and on for several months. It’s been a departure from the usual kitchen knives. The skinner is 1084, cold blued, handle is made from 40 layers of construction paper. this one is made from a piece of winch wire from one of our barges, 1” diameter. Around 64 HRC after a 400 degree temper. Still haven’t put the final edge on in the photos.
  14. I’m thinking that if you get hot enough to have issues with the handle due to temperature, your temper is gonna get screwed up anyways.
  15. What would you use in place of the trizacts on a single speed machine? I’ve been using them for polishing on my grizzly- I know they aren’t ideal at that speed
  16. Santokus are usually used on a cutting board, comfortable knuckle clearance is a good thing. The curve of the handle gets in the way of that a bit. When testing knife designs, I usually cut a template out of Masonite- cardboard works too- and try out a chopping motion, see how the handle feels, all that. If the blade isn’t very wide, having the handle angled up away from the board helps- you can get the same effect and keep the handle in line with the spine by bringing your edge angle and tip toward the spine a little, like this crude sketch
  17. That’s the stuff I usually use- I’ve done blue jeans, camo, cotton fabric- tried synthetic but it doesn’t absorb the resin so it didn’t really shape and polish, just frayed. Also tried titanium ore- with less than ideal results.
  18. Looks pretty good. The only thing that’s looks a little off to me is the nub at the back of the edge, which would prevent you from using a chopping motion on a cutting board.
  19. here’s one that my Alaskan friend uses- Caribou antler handle
  20. I recently tried my first full tang Damascus knife, cable with g10 scales. Got the blade and scales finished to 400 on the grinder, then hand sanded and etched the blade and polished the scales, then assembled it all. When gluing everything, managing the squeeze out of epoxy made a mess, got epoxy all over the scales- wasn’t a huge issue with the g10 but I could see this being a problem with wood. Any tips or suggestions for making this less of an issue? Any other ideas for making a clean assembly in any part of making a full tang Damascus knife are welcome. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...