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Doug Crawford

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Everything posted by Doug Crawford

  1. I’d hold out just a little longer until you can spend $575, the grizzly 2x72 works well for that price.
  2. Also if you don’t have one, this is the best $4 I’ve spent at harbor freight https://m.harborfreight.com/spring-loaded-center-punch-621.html?utm_referrer=direct%2Fnot provided
  3. Cobalt bits should last for a little while, with cutting oil and low speed. Carbide bits last longer but are brittle, have to be careful
  4. I got O1 from fastenal. They had 1/2” and 5/8” in stock in 3 foot sections.
  5. Fresh water, but also don’t ever come into contact with any water except rain. If we end up in the river something has gone very wrong. Just a bar of the steel is about $100 with shipping, then cost to heat treat, and I’d still be unsure if it would perform well enough to justify the cost. The CPM D2 looks like it would be a little better than standard D2, and not super expensive, $45 per bar.
  6. I might give the D2 a try. The CPM looks a little expensive.
  7. That one was for the captain that put me in for my first raise. He also is how I ended up with 20 feet of cable. I’ve still been looking for the perfect metal for cutting our lines. I’m using one Gabe made at the moment, it’s a traditional rigging knife style, 1095, works well on almost everything that I use it for regularly. There’s one type of heavy line that has a thick polypropylene core that is extremely abrasion resistant. It dulled 80crv2 before it could cut through it one time. thats the heavy stuff and what im using right now
  8. Hello everyone! It’s been a while since I’ve posted anything- I took a new job on a towboat, which has cut into shop time significantly. I’ve been working on these two off and on for several months. It’s been a departure from the usual kitchen knives. The skinner is 1084, cold blued, handle is made from 40 layers of construction paper. this one is made from a piece of winch wire from one of our barges, 1” diameter. Around 64 HRC after a 400 degree temper. Still haven’t put the final edge on in the photos.
  9. I’m thinking that if you get hot enough to have issues with the handle due to temperature, your temper is gonna get screwed up anyways.
  10. What would you use in place of the trizacts on a single speed machine? I’ve been using them for polishing on my grizzly- I know they aren’t ideal at that speed
  11. Santokus are usually used on a cutting board, comfortable knuckle clearance is a good thing. The curve of the handle gets in the way of that a bit. When testing knife designs, I usually cut a template out of Masonite- cardboard works too- and try out a chopping motion, see how the handle feels, all that. If the blade isn’t very wide, having the handle angled up away from the board helps- you can get the same effect and keep the handle in line with the spine by bringing your edge angle and tip toward the spine a little, like this crude sketch
  12. That’s the stuff I usually use- I’ve done blue jeans, camo, cotton fabric- tried synthetic but it doesn’t absorb the resin so it didn’t really shape and polish, just frayed. Also tried titanium ore- with less than ideal results.
  13. Looks pretty good. The only thing that’s looks a little off to me is the nub at the back of the edge, which would prevent you from using a chopping motion on a cutting board.
  14. here’s one that my Alaskan friend uses- Caribou antler handle
  15. I recently tried my first full tang Damascus knife, cable with g10 scales. Got the blade and scales finished to 400 on the grinder, then hand sanded and etched the blade and polished the scales, then assembled it all. When gluing everything, managing the squeeze out of epoxy made a mess, got epoxy all over the scales- wasn’t a huge issue with the g10 but I could see this being a problem with wood. Any tips or suggestions for making this less of an issue? Any other ideas for making a clean assembly in any part of making a full tang Damascus knife are welcome. Thanks!
  16. I took a new job this year which has cut down on my time in the shop quite a bit, I’m limited to a day or two every 6 weeks now, so my progress has been pretty limited. most of my work will go into welding up about 20 feet of 1.25” cable that I got from one of the boats I work on. Deckhands on towboats need knives, and they would love one made from boat wire. I got my first bar welded up last time I was home, got to figure out a good practical design that’s easily replicated and start finishing some to take on trips with me and hopefully make a little extra cash. Gonna try to finish up the prototype over the next two weeks for my next trip out- Black g10 handle and Black kydex to finish it out. Other than that, kitchen knives when I can squeeze them in. Probably just going to do stock removal for times sake, I can get a machine finished kitchen knife knocked out in a day and a half right now.
  17. Has a theme been done based on a certain country or region? Places like japan would have an absurd amount of possibilities. Maybe throw a dart at a map and work with what is traditional or commonplace there? (Exclude Pakistani Damascus from the list)
  18. Very nice indeed. Did you use a convex grind on the blade? Any plans to make a video of finishing the handle?
  19. Yep- I’m hoping I’ll be able to get something made in time for this year- new job has limited my time in the shop.
  20. 20 degrees seems too wide for a kitchen knife. 15-17 is about normal. Keep the edge polished and stropped. For your our next one, aim for more knuckle clearance on a knife intended for chopping. Having to worry about rapping your knuckles on the cutting board isn’t good. If anything I would have the handle curve away from the edge instead of towards it. I like to keep mine in a fairly straight line so as you hold the handle the tip is in line with your grip.
  21. Ok- sounded kind of like you were heat treating the profiled bar stock and putting in the full bevel afterwards. Before I got a belt grinder i started with a steady hand and a flap disc on an angle grinder, then moved to a file, then sandpaper.
  22. Just curious- why must the bevels be done post-heat treat?
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