Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

11 Good

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Central Louisiana
  • Interests
    Sipping Whiskey
    Annoying the wife

Recent Profile Visitors

302 profile views
  1. DBain

    Meteorite Damascus

    First and first mostly, I love that you casually have a chunk of meteorite laying around in your shop! I cant wait to watch this come to fruition.
  2. DBain

    1st & 2nd San Mai

    I tried to be cautious and would etch from time to time to keep track of where my core was.
  3. DBain

    1st & 2nd San Mai

    Yes I did ferric the followed with coffee and a lite hand buff with Turtle wax chrome polish.
  4. DBain

    1st & 2nd San Mai

    First San Mai is dry welded hand forged 15n20 core and 1084 jacket. OAL is approximately 8.5” with a stag and quarter mokume handle. It has a threaded butt cap nut and GFlex epoxy. Second San Mai is dry welded and hand forged 1084 core with 15n20 jacket. OAL is approximately 14”. The handle is stacked Ebony and leather with a wrought guard and pommel. The pommel was tapped for threaded and GFlex epoxy construction.
  5. DBain

    Glue starved and handle scales and liners

    I’ll typically scuff all of the mateing surfaces in opposing directions with a 60 grit belt to give the epoxy traction. Not saying it’s right or optimal but it’s what I do.
  6. DBain

    A different question about etching.

    Simple enough, thank you.
  7. I’ve searched here and elsewhere and haven’t seen much of an explanation. I have s friend who wanted a skinner made out of a piece of cable from a job he worked. Relatively small cable about 7/8” lifting sling, but a skinner is fairly small so I banged one out for him. My question is since ( I presume) all of the strands are made of the same steel why is there a distinction between strands? Why can you see the end cuts where I ground the bevels? Why wouldn’t it be homogeneous? Now my knife looks like every other cable steel knife out there and that’s what I was going for but I’m having a time understanding why the strands show individually. Is it due to the environmental conditions the cable was exposed to, or elemental changes that took place during the forging process. Similarly if I took a stack of a dozen pieces of 15n20 and forge welded them together then forged a knife , ground, heat treated, sanded, and etched it would it show a pattern?
  8. DBain

    Mokume Gane

    I followed similar steps that were in Ron’s linked video. I cleaned the quarters with lighter fluid prior to welding. I made a clamp to hold my stack together in the forge. It’s 2 pieces of 3/8” flatbar 1 1/2x4” with 1/2” holes near the ends. I place my stack of quarters in ($6-$8 worth) and tighten down on my bolts to clamp everything in place. Toss it in the forge and wait a minute or two until I just begin to see them start sweating. I’ll pull the device out and give it a couple sharp blows with a 2lb hammer then retighten my bolts and repeat one more time. After two cycles it’s solid and I forge it do shape or thickness as desired.
  9. DBain

    Low layer twist pattern weld

    For what it’s worth here is a cross section of the end of the billet:
  10. DBain

    Low layer twist pattern weld

    Twisting at the proper heat without tearing the billet is my concern. I have a heavy vice and a solid work table. I am going to a hammer in this weekend and am trying to get ahead as much as I can but certainly don’t want to take 5 steps back. I’ll touch base with the shop owner and see how he feels about twisting it there.
  11. This will be my first attempt at pattern welded steel. I’ve made a few SanMai blades with good success. I’m using 15 layers total of 1084 & 15n20. My original stack was 5”L x 1.25”W x 3”H. I welded it up and forged it down to 8”L x 1.5”W x 1.5”H, then crushed in the corners to take the edges off. Now the twist... is it reasonable to expect to be able to put 3 or 4 twists in this 1.5” billet by hand ? I’m wanting to forge a cleaver or modified cleaver so I don’t want to take the billet down any smaller than I have to.
  12. DBain

    Hello, newbie just starting out

    Keep up the good work, you you can see progress with every blade. dont stop don’t settle
  13. DBain

    First time wrought iron ?s

    Thank you, and here are the obligatory pics of where I am so far.
  14. For some reason I am doing my first hidden tang knives as a batch of 3. 2 of which are my first attempts at forging San Mai billets. I also want to use wrought iron for the fittings on 2 and mokume fittings for the other. Current status I'm ready to start working with the wrought iron(first time touching the stuff). Can I simply shape by stock removal? Should it be annealed? Should it be heat treated in some fashion to show a pattern when etched? Almost everything I can find to read up on working with wrought pertains to identifying it and expressing how hot you need to work it if you are forging it.
  15. DBain

    Hammer Technique

    Interesting, seems like beginners would be giving up a considerable amount of control using this technique. Purely speculation, as I have not swung a hammer in that manner.