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    Central Louisiana
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    Sipping Whiskey
    Annoying the wife

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  1. I’ve used unstabalized curly maple dyed with Fiebings dark brown leather dye and multiple coats of TruOil finish on several knives. It’s highly recommended to stabilize burl wood. Once they are dried down to 10-15% you can send them out to K&G to be dyed and stabilized. I’d cut them to about 30% oversized before sending them out.
  2. Go take a look at a 40 year old Old Hickory knife, that is what happens.
  3. I’ve use Hemptique (Dark Brown and Earthy) 1mm 20lb hemp cord off of the big river site. I did a quick epoxy soak then whipped off as much as I could as I was wrapping.
  4. A few years ago I read a short article that explained the craftsman’s opportunity to be a bladesmith / blacksmith in today’s world. I was reading several different forums at the time so it may have originated here or elsewhere. I’d love to find it again. Im going butcher it but I think I can get the heart of it across. “” “”It begins stating that since the beginning of man’s time man has strived for an easier more efficient way of doing things/making things. Now for the first time in history life is so easy craftsmen can seek out and revive the old ways of doing. “” “” If this rings a bell with anyone and you know where it originated from please let me know. If this is a butchering of your quote, forgive me but please correct me. Thank You
  5. Side track: Drop bears wow, I’ve talked to the guy who claims to have made up drop bears.
  6. After talking to and taking the advice of a an experienced smith, whom I’ve taken a couple of classes with, I did minimal forging to shape and more stock removal on these. I’d say forged to about 60%, just a general profile and tang with slight bevels.
  7. Sadly yes, sort of. The pin hole was drilled in the tang correctly but I gouged the scales and had to grind out quite a bit of material under the front pin. Also had some etching issues, my typical jar wouldn’t accommodate the knife so I foolishly tried to insert and etch then flip and etch the other side which resulted in a pretty substantial overlap line. I cleaned it up but not as good as I should have. I ended up pouring my etchant in a shallow pan and laid the blade down in it which worked but I should have had a better plan. Im thinking about trying some aluminum black on the pins I don’t like the way they clash.
  8. My first attempt at multi layer Damascus, I chose low layer twist on a modified cleaver. 15 layers of 1084 and 15n20 dry welded by hand and a homemade press with a 20ton air/hydraulic jack. I got down to 1.5” square then cut my end off to check the welds. I BBQ quite a bit and wanted a cleaver shaped blade to slice with. I welded and forged out a billets my shop, then went to a hammer in hosted by DanGraves to pick his brain and use some of his toys to do the real work. Handle is Buckeye Burl that I picked up at the Arkansas Knife Show. OAL is just shy of 14” and a cutting edge of 8.5”. I made some mistakes along the way but am pleased with where I ended up. IIRC this is knife 21 for me. It sliced a brisket and ham Easter Sunday like a champ.
  9. First and first mostly, I love that you casually have a chunk of meteorite laying around in your shop! I cant wait to watch this come to fruition.
  10. I tried to be cautious and would etch from time to time to keep track of where my core was.
  11. Yes I did ferric the followed with coffee and a lite hand buff with Turtle wax chrome polish.
  12. First San Mai is dry welded hand forged 15n20 core and 1084 jacket. OAL is approximately 8.5” with a stag and quarter mokume handle. It has a threaded butt cap nut and GFlex epoxy. Second San Mai is dry welded and hand forged 1084 core with 15n20 jacket. OAL is approximately 14”. The handle is stacked Ebony and leather with a wrought guard and pommel. The pommel was tapped for threaded and GFlex epoxy construction.
  13. I’ll typically scuff all of the mateing surfaces in opposing directions with a 60 grit belt to give the epoxy traction. Not saying it’s right or optimal but it’s what I do.
  14. I’ve searched here and elsewhere and haven’t seen much of an explanation. I have s friend who wanted a skinner made out of a piece of cable from a job he worked. Relatively small cable about 7/8” lifting sling, but a skinner is fairly small so I banged one out for him. My question is since ( I presume) all of the strands are made of the same steel why is there a distinction between strands? Why can you see the end cuts where I ground the bevels? Why wouldn’t it be homogeneous? Now my knife looks like every other cable steel knife out there and that’s what I was going for but I’m having a time understanding why the strands show individually. Is it due to the environmental conditions the cable was exposed to, or elemental changes that took place during the forging process. Similarly if I took a stack of a dozen pieces of 15n20 and forge welded them together then forged a knife , ground, heat treated, sanded, and etched it would it show a pattern?
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